rope and a couple lockers and your golden

He's like the Bob Ross of ice climbing

Really tho the "we're just gonna find a way to back up this system" bit should be a code of life

@@ericw7608 equivalent to duck tape with climbing………

I think that's what happened to John

😂

I think they just found her in a crevasse. I'd suggest just checking all of them.

@@richardschofield2201 ok, wish me luck!

Glenn Johnson No need to try to make comments on my mental capabilities here in Glenn. I’ve been mountaineering on glaciers for 25 years and an instructor for most of those, and no one in the Pacific Northwest would ever carry a specialized handled ascender as part of normal glacier kit. A micro ascender such as wild country ropeman maybe. Please share with us your vast experience in glacier travel.

@Glenn Johnson what is it with Americans and our inability to listen to and learn from guides and others who are actually knowledgeable about a subject?

I am climbing Mt Baker on summer solstice in about a week! That's why I'm brushing up on technique. Good luck to you!

*mechanical advantage

misclicks. they put the buttons too close together. a certain number of dislikes per likes are expected due to misclicks.

LOL!

It just created more questions for me: how is it that Jon could manage a gender reassignment and a name change while dangling from a rope, but couldn't throw a couple prusiks on and climb out? This is more confusing than the one where he was belaying himself from the ground while stuck on a climb.

Is there a video of this technique? I'm having a hard time visualizing your setup.

No it wouldn’t! Then you would have to loosen the prusik every time

Hi Ryan, I'm not sure if I fully understand the set-up that you are suggesting, but on your question, the shift that Jeff shows to add and lock the red biner from the "ear" of the Reverso to his belay loop is to make the Reverso work in its guide mode and this in turn allows the yellow biner to lock the rope and not slip as he ascends. This is a similar concept as if you were belaying from the top in a multipitch with an Reverso. So short answer is that the method that is shown is to allow the Reverso to lock, and is not just for convenience. Hope this helps and have fun out there!

Watch it a bunch of times. I have and it has helped me a lot

I recommend watching a different video if you're a total beginner to crevasse rescue. This is not a good video for complete beginners -- you'll be confused, try to learn techniques that are more complex than the average person will need on most days and worst of all: likely forget how it works while under duress. If you already know all of the basics, however, this video is absolutely amazing to expand your skills. Jeff is a legend and explains clearly.

@@rajanlliw I am nowhere near a beginner but always eager to see if there is a newer or better way to old techniques.

Probably not but it never hurts to have an extra backup.

It should be a conscientious trade-off of time & increased complexity for a tiny bit more safety.

The friction hitch is not connected to his arness so it doesn't count as a security

It is indeed a 3:1. Notice that he pulls about 3' of rope through the upper carabiner (an arm length) each step but only moves up about 1'. Then he moves the upper carabiner up so it takes 2' out and he can pull 3' again and get another foot. In other words, the upper piece (the carabiner in the friction hitch) moves.

That's a 3-1. I'm not a guide but I study aerospace engineering if it counts as reference. However I've tested this system with a marked rope and for ever 3 unit you pull down (referred to you: for example your harness or other fixed reference point) 1 unit will be retried through the guide atc.

It's a 2:1 with a redirect. He's essentially in a drop loop and with the load (himself) being on a pulley/ATC, he's simply unable to get a 3:1 system. If you use the "counting tensions" method from his pulling hand it becomes obvious: 1 "tension" in hand, 1 comes back down, leaving 2 on his friction hitch. The 1 that came down has 1 going up again, leaving 2 at the load (his belay loop). The 1 that goes up meets the 2 that's at his hitch, witch makes it 3 going to the anchor. So to sum up, he's got 1 in hand, 2 at the load and 3 at the anchor - it's an obvious sign that you have a redirect system if the anchor is holding more "tensions" (3) than are being pulled (2). What's confusing people here is that in a 3:1 system, there's also only one pulley/ATC/carabiner moving. However, the location of the pulley/ATC makes all the difference. If it's at the load (like here), you generally have a system with even numbers (2:1, 4:1, 6:1 etc) while if it's at the anchor, you have systems with odd numbers (the most common being 3:1, of course).

@@pipore22 Sorry, but that's just wrong. It's a 2:1 with a redirect. The distances you notice with your eyes can be misleading due to a number of factors, such as the dynamic lengthening of the rope. He's essentially in a drop loop and with the load (himself) being on a pulley/ATC, he's simply unable to get a 3:1 system. If you use the "counting tensions" method (google it if you're not familiar with it) from his pulling hand it becomes obvious: 1 "tension" in hand, 1 comes back down, leaving 2 on his friction hitch. The 1 that came down has 1 going up again, leaving 2 at the load (his belay loop). The 1 that goes up meets the 2 that's at his hitch, witch makes it 3 going to the anchor. So to sum up, he's got 1 in hand, 2 at the load and 3 at the anchor - it's an obvious sign that you have a redirect system if the anchor is holding more "tensions" (3) than are being pulled (2). What's confusing people here is that in a 3:1 system, there's also only one pulley/ATC/carabiner moving. However, the location of the pulley/ATC makes all the difference. If it's at the load (like here), you generally have a system with even numbers (2:1, 4:1, 6:1 etc) while if it's at the anchor, you have systems with odd numbers (the most common being 3:1, of course).

@@MrOteron I would like to inform you that you are wrong. It is indeed a 3:1. You need to be looking at this from the point of reference from the climber's perspective. That person has three ropes that all need to be reduced in order for him to move up one unit. The "moving pulley" from the reference of the climber is the upper non-locker. The rope in his hand is part of the pulley system. If you want to use the T-method (counting tensions), then there is one rope in his hand, a second coming down into his ATC and a third going up. When he applies force with his hand, all three strands are supporthing his load, hence a 3:1. If someone else were doing the pulling, for example if the victim in the crevasse was pulling, then there would only be two strands pulling on the climber, and that would definitely make it a 2:1 drop loop (as the 3rd leg would not be contributing, and would result in extra force on the victim), but as the climber is hauling himself, that changes the point of reference and makes it a 3:1.

are you usually strolling around the glaciers with Revo, Matik or Grigri on you? lol

Don't forget a Petzl Tibloc. It weighs almost next to nothing. A prusik loop, leg loop and couple biners can replace all that rigging.

I dont fully trust most of those devices on a wet and icey rope