It isn't just how the part looks. This glossiness, in fact, tells you that the polymer crystallised more and has better mechanical properties. The matt surface finish means that the part didn't get enough energy and is weaker in almost every aspect (tensile strength, temperature resistance, etc).

Sequence printing Print-by-object - Also, an interesting option which may avoid slowing print time is to use sequence printing, called Print-by-object within Bambu Studio! Hope this helps!

This tip/tag saved my sanity, my love for this hobby, and my wallet. If more people had tutorials like this as a primer 3d printing wouldn't be so difficult of a sell but let me tell you, its a blast when you're invested and fed the right information to produce great prints.

Not enough people are talking about this. This helped me a lot. Subscribed!

Good tip! This is probably related with the "minimum layer time" filament configuration, which is preventing the top of that object to print slower, and since the bottom has that other object, it makes the layer time to be higher, so higher speeds can be reached. If you changed only the bigger part outer wall speed to 100ms it would also probably work, and yeah decreasing the minimum layer time would also improve it and make the print even faster - in this case it could lead to cooling issues, but its worth it trying, I've noticed that for some parts it can be decreased a little bit without any issues.

This topic is very underrated why aren't people talking about this

You may also want to pay attention to the cooling of the filament, i.e. the layer time, which also affects the print speed. If the time to be used for the first matte part of the lay

Awesome tutorial thanks so mcuh for sharing :). One thing you can do to slow the print speed down is adjust the flow rate in the printer for your material. By default, bambu PLA basic materials print at 21 mm/s. I've found that dropping the flow rate down to 10mm/s keeps everything nice and glossy, the printer will automatically show the print speeds down to match the new flow rate max.

Great video! Straight to the point. Rare these days on youtube.

Straight to the point and easy to understand, thank you 🙏🏼

Awesome video. Straight to the piint, no stupid intros or talking for 20 minutes. Good job. Thank you!

Thanks so much for doing this video! I was having a similar issue that'd been driving me nuts on my X1C and P1P with one specific model that was a sphere. For me specifically though, the banding always seemed to line up with where supports were and not a seemingly random height. In the end, the instructions in this video didn't fix my issue BUT the video did point me in the right direction and give me info I needed. Ultimately for me it was a matter of disabling "Slow down for overhangs" when supports are enabled that fixed my issue but I give you full credit for getting me there. Thanks so much!

The speed is limited by max volumetric speed in filament settings. When printing on high speeds you reach the limit of max volumetric speed, so slicer changes other speeds accordingly. To keep stable speed on all model parts you need to print lover than max volumetric speed.

For PETG Temp and Speed plays a huge role, anyway struggling trying to get a glossy look to your prints, you might have to slow down or increase temps or both.

An easier option would be to check the flow rate of the glossy section and set the maximum flow rate of the filament to match. No need to adjust speeds for every print that way, it will be automatically speed limited.

I've found that printing PLA at 250 degrees, everything gets glossy and the print still comes out fine without needing to drop speeds. 250 seems crazy but the PLA itself probably doesn't get that hot, it's just necessary to heat it up fully. Try a temp tower up to 270 or so and check how it prints!

Yes, it's good that this is being addressed, although the behavior is, of course, logically explainable. The filament needs the opportunity to cool down a bit. When you have many parts or large, extensive parts, the filament cools down, and if the number of parts decreases, leaving only this super thin ring, the speed drops significantly to give the filament the chance to cool down; otherwise, the print would fail completely.

This helped with an entirely unrelated issue I'm having within a completely different slicer... thank you! 😂

I recommend not only looking at Speed differences in the preview, but also at cooling differences. You want these two being as uniform as possible for your parts. I would also not recommend compensating these effects by generally slowing down. This simply turns a very fast printer into a very slow one... I would rather keep the higher speeds, increase my part cooling and change my layer time settings to avoid auto slow down. Bambu-Studio also has dedicated speed settings for overhangs. In case of printing parts with overhangs, that might also need adjustement.

you could also just changed the minimum layer time to prevent slowdown, if bambu allows that lol, but in my experience, after this is tuned you might want to raise temps unless it's "mat filament". Glossy means better layer adhesion most of the time. printing at those speeds, you need to ignore recommended temps

You can print the flow test in orca slicer and pick a flow rate limit in the material properties. Bambu PLA stays glossy to about 8mm3/s @220C.

Yeah, nice. The other thing that may achieve the same end, but might be more risky to a suscessful print is, in the Filament Cooling tab, to uncheck 'Slow printing down for better layer cooling'

I believe it is better to change "Max volumetric speed" in filament settings. Which do basically the same, top speed is limited to the (volumetric) speed which still works for this filament.

This was excellent, informative and to the point. Thanks for showing me this about my new printer.

This phenomenon can also be caused by the minimal time for a layer, which is set in the cooling-options of the material. If the layer takes less than the specified minimal time (in my case 8s), the print will get slowed down. I'm not sure if it is a good idea to set this too low or even deactivate this mechanism, because it is meant to give the layer enough time to cool down, but I think, this is also a cause for the different speeds. Sadly, there is no option like "keep the same print-speed, but wait outside of the part for the remaining time". I don't know if that would cause other problems, but it might be worth a try...

Changing the minimum layer time settings are another possible fix, if they are overly restrictive, but I'm a cura user.

Thanks for this - this was my exact problem and I got as far as the speed view in Preview - I’ll try changing the speed on the outer wall.

Great video! I had the same exact thing happening and didn't even know how to phrase the question. Thanks!!

Great video - short on the point. Again learned something. Thank you for making this video.

This is a result of maximum flow settings. Decrease your maximum flow to one that comes out nice and the slicer will adjust.

Very helpful. Thank you. I may try increasing nozzle temperature to see if that also might correct consistency and remove that transition in the print

Pretty sure you can also use a cube modifier and put it over that top half and force the speed to stay higher and keep the speed and matte finish rather than slowing the entire print down to be gloss instead. I'll be making a video and experiment with this too.

Thank you for this video. The information was very helpful and your explanation was easy to understand. I appreciate you taking the time to share this information.

Good practice: if there are more than 1 object on plate - go to OTHERS -> Special mode -> Print sequence -> and select By OBJECT.

Didn't really mention the root cause of the issue though: 'Minimum Layer Time'. That's why it slows down. And there's to ways to go about it really. Either slow the speed to match the minimum layer time on the quickest layer - OR - lower the minimum layer time to match the desired speed on the quickest layer.

Dude this is awesome, I was wondering what the hell was happening before with some parts where you see these defects when you have writing or other elements on the outer wall

But why is it printing outer wall at different speeds within that object? Does it have to do with the min layer time?

I been having this issue so I'm going to try this tonight, thank you sir

this is amazing. Did not even know this function existed!

I've noticed when a print is done with another thing it tends to be less perfect, and changing speed also changes gloss

I appreciate this video being to the point. I learned something too. Thank you.

Cheers mate! Actual 10/10 video.

I assume the reason it's slowing down once it's printing only the one part is probably the minimum layer time. You could try and decrease that value, but you gotta make sure that cooling is still sufficient then. This should not be a problem on bigger prints though.

Fantastic informative straight forward no fluff video! ❤

I printed the benchy on its own with no other models on the plate. I used Bambu PLA Basic filament, using the default Bambu PLA Basic profile/settings in Bambu Studio, I did this on the A1 Mini and the X1C, in both cases the benchy turned out shiny/matt like this. I have never experienced this before on my Ender printers. It seems to be a pretty bad issue with the Bambu's PLA Basic. TBH, left me underwhelmed with Bambu printers that are supposed to just produce great prints out of the box with very little setup or tweaking.

Thanks a lot for the info and thanks again for the straight to the point video

1. On final prints simply keep a low temp to avoid the shine effect. 1. Another way is to use a high temp filament, for those barely exhibit the shine effect across temperature/speed swings. 3. Print one object or multiples of the same object. 4. Use temperature profile hack that only exist in proprietary software of which you don't own equipment. To this day, users STILL have to baby sit the printed part by adjusting speed and temp at certain layers. So where is the so called A.I. these print companies boast about? 3D printing is till in its zygote stage of life.

Well this simple video and concise explanation definitely earned a subscription from me. Thank you. 🙏🙏 Time now to check out your other content and see what I can learn 👍👍😎👍👍

i found another way go to click to edit preset ( button next to preset e.g Bambu PLA Basic) go to cooling tab find "minimum printing speed" default is 20mm/s change it to match outer wall speed e.g 200 mm/s 200mm/s gives you a matte finish .

Looks mostly to be a temperature issue caused by changing flow/print speed. I'd prolly look at that if I wanted to maintain a low-as-possible print time.

This is very useful! thanks for sharing

Does anyone know why the inside of my print foes this to the outside of the print ? If that makes sense

The problem is minimum layer time. The layer takes longer when there are two parts. Meaning the printer is able to move faster and still hit the minimum layer time. The faster speed means there is a higher flow rate, causing that matte look. Increasing the minimum layer time would slow the printer down, giving you the glossy look. Decreasing the minimum layer time would speed the printer up, giving you the matte look. Printing at higher speeds does affect part strength too. PLA that is melted properly should always have the glossy finish unless it is a special kind of PLA like PolyTerra Matte PLA.

You are hitting the minimum layer time when the first object finishes so the printer will slow down to respect that value.

This works for PETG to make it consistently shiny all over. I use 60-80mm for the outer wall

that's also a low infill print, so the bigger prints with a lot of infill it won't hurt you as much on time, because lower % of the print are walls. Another variable is that a high percentage of that 25 minutes is the bed leveling and all that stuff, doesn't that take like 8 minutes or something? So anyway my point is there are a lot of variables, but for the most part lowering the outer wall speed won't hurt the time much. Also not 100% sure but I think part of what decides the difference in speed / flow is overhangs, so you can play with those speeds, outer wall speeds, etc. and don't necessarily have to drop it by 50% might get away with less, maybe 150 instead of 100? idk just some random thoughts. Anyway thanks for posting this I was really getting annoyed by this problem, and didn't know about that speed/flow view thing.

Great tips! Thanks for sharing w us!

print temperature ( higher heat for faster printing ) at higher temp PLA can turn glossy.

To me this seems to be minimum layer time causing this. After the first part is done, the printer has to do a lot less work per layer, so it slows down to still reach its minimum layer time. That's why the individual object is printed in the orange range completely, and not partially in the green range.

Haven’t come across this issue, but it’s good info to have when I do 👍🏻

the color difference comes from "minimum layer time" it just prints the upper part slower then the ones below. if you have enough cooling you can reduce the minimum layer time or dont let it slow down. you did the other way where speed reduction equals your outer wall speed. (maybe orca/bambu removed the settings for this.. minimum layer time is a standard setting in prusa/super slicer under filament tab)

Thank you for making this video !

Outstanding info!

Differences in layer time also cause this, not just speed. Infact a sharp transition in layer time has a greater visual impact that than speed.

Saw this video last week didn’t watch it, printed the preloaded benchy from my new x1c and got this result…said to myself shit where did that video go 😂😂😂

you may want to consider redesigning your holes not to have support. You really shouldn't need supports for those types of holes. If you want them to look nicer you can turn the hole into more a teardrop shape at the top so the printer is printing a more gradual overhang instead of a sharper one with a circle. even with a circle though it will print fine with no supports. it will just be a little messier at the top.

Thanks for the informations !

Even changing the speed isnt stopping weird lines showing up on my prints due to different flows

Make sure the nozzle temp is on the high end fans are going full blast when you lower that minimum layer time. Otherwise you might clog the nozzle or extrude warped lines. Tis a careful balance. I think slowing down the overall print speed was the better option haha.

What an amazing tip! Thank you so much.

Nicely done!

Thank you for this great tip.

thanks for sharing, this is very useful!

This is very helpful. Thank you! Have you encountered any issues with wall bulge at the wall transition (from base floor to wall)? I've been trying to find ways to remove it but still can't figure how. If you know how to solve that, please share.

This problem appears to be "minimum layer time" setting. Reduce the time and it should fix it

I have been trying out a small increment of fuzzy skin to make better looking outer layers and have had some very good success in hiding the layers and seams, I have also been making some decorative ribs to hide seams, I also use Matte PLA and CF PLA to hide the layer lines. Is the Bambu Basic PLA meant to be matt or glossy?

Huh, interesting, saved this for later. Thank you, I did not know this could be an issue or what to even look for when something like this happens. I have had it only once on one of my prints using Cura.

Nice tip!!! Thanks.

I'm having some problems with marks on the pieces, similar to your piece on the left at the beginning of the video. It's happening just on the right side of the table. It's as if the layers have space between them. Very common in conventional printers. Do you have a video that teaches you how to fix this? Or could you tell me what the name of the problem would be so that I can search for a solution. Mine is the A1 mini

I stumbled upon your video after ordering matte PLA specifically to obtain this effect... lol

ayyyy these look familiar 🔥🔥🔥

Also, if you set the seam starting point to random it won't leave a joint where it starts and stops each layer...

nice! Thanks!

looking at that bambu studio has the min layer time to low so it slows down. i would guess each of those layers once its one part is less than 5 seconds if at 200mm/s

Great tips!

Very helpful, thank you.

Thank you!

Thanks for sharing

good info.

I feel like the software should already be doing this. I guess it's easier to advertise a high speed number vs high quality outcome

i got the p1s today and the benchy i printed had this isue... i printed from the sd card... i cant access the file from the studio program...

thank you

In fact, it is common in general for the color to change as the layer rises. I don't know why, in Bambu studio the printer speed slows down as the piece is nearing the end and this image appears. I haven't found a solution for this. Not only for binary parts but also for single parts, especially when printing complex and large parts, the printer speed slows down towards the last layers and this causes the color change. If anyone knows the solution, please write.

The PETcarbon fiber always comes out perfectly uniform and matt. It's just theregular PET that does that. Is it possible to print everything matt and still get good strength? Thank you so much for the tip.

nice man, thanx

when you bumpped it back to 200, it didnt show the green. Did the file just need to be resliced. period?

Thanks!

If you don't want to lose print speed, change your minimum layer time.

Thank you

I like the matte finish.....so are you saying, if you print faster you get a matte finish?