+cbeaulac Glad we could help.

Couldn’t agree more. I just wish I could have had a manager like Don Bailey throughout my career. It really makes a huge difference when the guy telling you what needs doing actually knows how and why it gets done, and is willing to explain it in a friendly and concise manner.

@@tomthumb3085 me too! Been a tool and cutter grinder since the early 70's.ground a lot of cutters worked on the early B1bomber sharpening a lot of carbide cutters cutting titanium 6al4v,.Been retried over 12 years and been rehired grinding and making and modifying tools,Still learning .Could you please explain the trouble one can get into climb cutting or in the case work is being pushed again the grinding wheel putting pressure on both the wheel under a heavy cut.thanksAl

Wow! Thank you.

i took an eclipse chuck apart to despite the warning the alluminiom spacer around the handle cracked allowing grit to get in it so had to section it out and re manufacture it and also clean the years worth of gunk out of it (very filthy) . put it together didnt work took apart re-assymbled did multiple times. gave up someone else looked at it had the damn cam for the handle backwards...... so many hours wasted i thought i scraped it lol

Thanks 👍

Glad you enjoyed it!

FSI Fabrication Thank You

Right on

Mike Young Thanks for watching Mike. The best way to check a magnetic chuck is to use a gauss meter. If you do not have one and do not want to send it back to the manufacturer to inspect, you can take a piece of steel approx. 1" x 1" x 6" long and put it in the middle of the chuck. Turn on the chuck and see if you can pull it off. This is not recommended due to the variables involved, but it will give you an idea if the chuck is working properly.

Glad to hear it! Thanks for the kind words. If you have a chance, please leave us a review on Google. As always, thanks for watching!

Jack Hoying We thought this may be a good video as it is somewhat rare for people to see what's inside.Don't forget to Subscribe to our channel for the latest How To Video's and share them with like minded people that would like to learn new (old) techniques.

It doesn’t seem like they are welding on the permanent magnets. They are welding on the steel top plates. The steel will regain its magnetic properties once it goes back down below the Currie temp.

Thanks! Don't worry, I like to keep my feet on the ground.

+Gustavo Fiorenza Yes, when we moved to our Auburn Hills facility in 1995 we wanted to repaint all of the machines. We decided on burgundy to match our product line.

Either use a glue that you know a solvent for or use heat to get the glue to separate. Or the best, get an ice chuck. "Thin" in grinding context is usually consider as 1-3 mm thick, though it all depends.

Louis Roy Thanks LouisPlease share these with someone that will enjoy them.

Will do

Thank you for watching. This video may explain what you are looking for kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fKiDbNmqnMnKe40.html. Thanks again!

Ah - I see🙂 I am so glad that The owner of the first shop I worked in saw potential in me and encouraged me to work in the tool room instead of just settling up cold heading machines (my dad’s job - no offense dad 😉) or secondary operation machines. I am 56 now and still learn something most everyday - the last few years some CNC and wire EDM which I wished I learned years earlier. I love to teach young people starting in the trade too.

Think of a horseshoe magnet. If you put a piece of steel across the horseshoe you will short out the magnet and it won’t work. Our lever works in a similar way inside the base.

You're welcome, thanks for watching!

Hi Don. Thanks for the video. I just recently purchased an old NB Churchill 18 x 6" Hydraulic Surface Grinder built in 1959 with 18 x 6" Eclipse Mag Chuck on it. Apart from a good clean up the machine is in very good condition. Like you said in one of your other vids Rebuilding Older Machines the old machines were built to last. The Chuck has lost a lot of it's holding power but knowing what to look for now, the toggle is loose. I'll be stripping it soon to give it a bit of TLC. Will do a little Vid on it and post soon. Cheers Graham.

Even though it is compressed and welded, there is still space for the copper to penetrate. Much like soldering a joint, the solder will flow through and seal it. Thank you.

Merin Johnson , Try putting your finger between the chuck and a large block of mild steel. Isn’t that what the real Tim Allen does to all of their chucks as a final test? He has a chart that equates the size of the blood blisters and the number of fingers.............

+Steve P (Hotwelder2) Generally it is because the cam link gets worn out and does not move the magnet box far enough.

+Steve P (Hotwelder2) Magnets loose power from being heated, so if your welding on a fixture like this and enough heat is transferred you could weaken the magnets.

It sounded louder than it was, trust me it was fine.

My understanding is that there are alternating plates of ferrous and non ferrous (steel and stainless steel) on the top plate that act as a magnetic conductor. Steel being the conductors, stainless being a non conductor. The top plate is then brought into close proximity to the magnets underneath and the magnetism is then conducted through the steel. The spacing is so the north and south poles of the magnets can be separated and the work piece will complete the magnetic circuit (hence it being pulled heavily into the chuck surface). I would suspect that the bottom of the magnets (the base) has one massive steel plate that forms a conductive path for the other ends of the magnets. Moving the chuck surface away from the magnets breaks that circuit and you can then lift the work piece away. Magnetism power is a square law ratio (F ~= k *1/(d^2) ) so a small movement away from the magnets can dramatically change the force. The reason for alternate magnets being that you can complete 2 magnetic circuits. Let’s say you have NSNS. In effect these magnetic circuits look like - NS SN NS to your work piece, so you have almost doubled the pulling power by interlacing the poles.

The top plate is not a magnet. The magnets are in the base and when they line up with the steel plates on top, the magnetic force is transferred. The non magnetic stainless steel plates allow you to turn the magnet on and off. Thank you for watching.

The lever / handle actuates the cam which moves the magnet set in the magnet box. When the magnets align with the poles in the top plate, the magnetic force is transferred. Moving the lever / handle back the other way aligns the magnet with the stainless steel plates which do not transfer the magnetism allowing for the removal of the workpiece from the chuck.

The amount of copper in that is next to nothing, plus blanchard grinders have huge segments in them and are very not likely to get clogged soon. V-block just has a V-shaped "table top". The magnet plate isn't welded, it is epoxied and heat is one of the reasons.

Gordon Brown If you dress your grinding wheel, then lightly coat it with perafane was or even use floor was. It will keep the wheel from clogging. This works excellent on aluminum as well.

same like You install a 2000hp engine into the motobike.... or a 200hp motor into a mini lathe. Other problem, in this size the neodinium magnets cannot provide a homogenic magnetic force. The ceramic magnets have much much much older technology and knowledges to produce precision magnets in this size. Maybe after several decades we will see smaller, lighter holders. And, do not forget, after You assembled the magnetic plate, You need to do machining on the surfaces. This what I think, but Suburban maybe has a right answers.

Thank you for watching!

Thank you for watching

lt doesn't work as a magnet! watch the whole video for reference

BMR Studio aa

Thanks!

I think (N-S)(S-N)(N-S) so that stronger poles are created in the intervening mild steel separators which complete the magnetic circuit through the top plate.

We do not recommend our magnetic chucks for milling applications. Thank you for watching.

Mark Richardson It is a press and heat process that fuses the plates together. Most of the transfer rails out there are bolted together and they do not last long without the plates moving. Without the proper equipment and exact processing techniques they are very difficult to make.

Just as the title states, "how to build a magnetic chuck". We make and sell a lot of magnetic chucks. www.subtool.com/idx_magnetic_chucks_sine_plates_and_tools.html What part don't you get? Thanks for watching.

The bottom plate with the magnets on it is what generates the magnetic field. This field is always being generated, even when the chuck is "off." The top plate is made of alternating materials; one allows magnetism to pass through it, the other material blocks the magnetism. When you turn the chuck "On" you are aligning the magnetic fields of the bottom plate with the pass-through slats of the top plate. Those fields transmit through the top plate and hold your part down. When you turn the chuck "Off," the bottom plate is physically sliding and aligning the magnets with the slats in the top plate that block magnetism.

Greg Koenig This was my question also. Thank you for filling us in on how the fields are aligned. I would like to see the insides of an electric chuck also and hear some tech talk on them. Joe

Joseph P. Polnaszek The on position has the poles between the magnets lined up with the steel in the upper plate so the fields go up to the top surface, through the part to be held, and back down the next steel to the next pole. When switched off, the poles line up between the steel in the upper plate so the field goes from pole to steel to next pole without going to the top surface.

No, sorry we only sell the finished units. But thank you for your interest.

HAHAHA Thank you for watching