hahahahahahahah. This comment made my day. What can I say? I am just a simple man who loves a cleanly well-tapped hole :)

@@AryaNakh enjoying the videos. waiting on my ali order now and playing with the electronics

Exciting!!!!! What color are you going to do your build?

Thank you for your kind words! I can't tell you how much it means! I very much appreciate the support! This project has made me develop such an appreciation for the machines of another era. The build quality, the pride in craftsmanship... its astounding. After this project is complete, I have my eyes set on some restoration videos! The experience has been incredible and the amount I have learned and have yet to learn excites me to my core. Thank you again :)

That's awesome! Thank you!!! Hopefully it’s helpful! If you have been studying for years, you are very likely to know more than me hahaha

Thank you very much for your support! I’m working on editing part 2 as we speak!

Thank you very much! For those that want to see a sneak peek at what this machine is capable of, you can find it on the official Three Design channel!

Thank you very much for the support and congrats on your build too!!!

That is so exciting!!! Welcome to the club :D would love to see your build!

Thank you very much for the support :)

Thank you very much! Good luck! It’s so much fun!!

Of course!!!! Good luck any enjoy! It’s such a fun process to build it! My advice, measure 6times and drill once! Kidding, but the more time you take drilling accurately, the less time you have to spend widening holes and aligning!

Thanks so much for the support!!

Thank you!

Thank you very much! In the other videos I have turned it down as other people suggested the same thing. I also just got a lav mic so in part 5, audio should be better…. I hope. We will find out! Appreciate the support! 😁

Thank you very much! I’m glad you like it and that you are coming on this journey with me!

Thank you very much for your kind comment! I am not sure but I think you are referring to the CNC built by Ivan Miranda, right? If so, they are somewhat similar but also very different! The PrintNC is in many ways a more capable machine to the one he designed and I'll break it down for you! But that is not to say that his machine is bad or anything nor is it to say that the PrintNC is right for you. This is just my comparison! The PrintNC uses steel on steel contacts as well as being constructed with steel tubing rather than aluminum (more rigidity). It uses linear rails and ball screws rather than belt driven, this is much much preferred for cutting materials that are harder as well as being able to push your machine faster and do more aggressive cuts. If you want to be able to cut more accurately and cleanly, I would go PrintNC... but that does come with cons.... the PrintNC, I am sure will cost you more. Also it may need more power since it uses bigger motors etc. I loved his video and the machine he built was really incredible! This comparison is somewhat unfair since I could also do the same thing and compare both machines to the Tormach....so it is a little apples to oranges. But the PrintNC is open source, and has been developed by a group of passionate people who continually try and improve the design!

I think over half the builds people do need a little “dedicated to Logan for his help” sign

@@AryaNakh I think Logan is a robot that Hoges build and transplanted to Canada. :)

As you can tell I had a teleprompter with a script 😂 Hey! It is a monster considering I was close to going with a regular old hand router before it! Plus I’ve seen smaller Chinese spindles mine is at least 3rd smallest 😬 Thanks for watching!!

That is a great tip! I remember Adam Savage's tip to print that out and just keep it handy. Lucky for me, the kit I bought had them positioned so I just used the packaging sizes (basically I did it the lazy way) but now that I have thrown the packaging away, I think it would be good to print out that chart! Thanks for watching and the tip!!

A good tip to get the correct drill size, look on the tap it will tell you the tap size and thread pitch (m5 x 0.8) or (m6 x 1.0). Minus the thread pitch from the tap size to give you the drill size, for example for m5 it is 5mm - 0.8mm = 4.2mm drill. M6 will be 6mm - 1mm = 5mm drill size. That way you don't need a chart ;-).

@@seancalderbank923 Works a bit differently for imperial threads. Divide the pitch into 1 and subtract that result from the fastener size. 1/4-20 is .250 minus .050 equals .200 tap drill. A #7 is the closest at .201"

Really? That is interesting. Is that with a drill press or just a general rule. I've experienced it was rather difficult to drill m5 without a pilot hole but that was with a hand drill, and a rather weak/cheap drill press

@@AryaNakh seems like your drill is not sharp. I have hand drilled 8mm directly to size a bunch of times before. A 4.2mm hole for M5 should be easily doable via handdrill :)

@@leonhardwolf4626 indeed.... sounds like I need some new drill bits haha!

The pilot hole in this application is to help the precision of the m5 or m6 hole it isn’t to help drill through the metal. Without the pilot hole there’s a possibility for the m6 or m5 drill bit to wander off centre even with a hole punch centre.

@@JimboJet737 I don't know what your background is but that is not really the case. A good punch and a decent drill bit do really well.

Hey Kyle! I used about 2 cans of primer and 2 cans of paint. I used Rustoleum spraypaint. Depending on the color you pick, you may need more/less cans of paint. Since both my primer and paint was white, it made it easy. Also depending of scratches in your paint job would annoy you, you could add 2 cans of clear enamel spray paint to the mix after it is dry to help protect your paint job! I didn't do this (I didn't think of this at the time). But so far it hasn't been a big deal. Hope this helps!

Of course! I got my metal cut a Industrial Metal Supplies. Which had a location near me. For the dimensions, I would be happy to provide, however, if you have fusion files, the dimensions I used would not work perfectly as the design as been slightly modified to be improved. So it would be better to use the calculator on the PrintNC website or the fusion themselves. Not trying to stop you though, if you prefer to follow exactly and use my dimensions and the slightly older version, let me know and I will provide! Cheers! 😊

They should be. A lot of the time, they renew the listed or if you contact them, they can give you a custom quote..... You can also order using the PrintNC calculator on the PrintNC website.... it is an affiliate system so the creator of printNC gets a small commission. If you do not want to do that, you can use the calculator and then give the list to the aliexpress store. When I bought, I bought through the aliexpress store but they gave a commission to the creator of PrintNC. As a disclaimer: I am in no way affiliated nor do I make any money from PrintNC affiliate sales or anything like that. I am just a huge fan of it, a supporter, and member of the community!

Thank you very much! The entire CAD and stl files are all available on the PrintNC website! It has a handy dimension list there as well for the steel. I used 3x2 steel as I live in the US. but you can modify this and there are options for many country standards! goodluck! Let me know if you have trouble finding anything!!!

Great question! It is 2"x3" hot rolled steel tubing. I ordered it from a local industrial metal supply store near me! I know alot of people use metalsupermarket but that is only North America so if you are on another continent, I am not sure the alternatives! If you are in the US, metalsupermarket is a great option! My local supplier is Industrial Metal Supplies!

There is very little flex in this machine- a number of people are cutting steel with their machines. At least one owner is producing mirror finish aluminium parts with his PrintNC. It’s very capable. And for wood and plastics I firmly believe it’s the best bang for buck machine available. Mine is 1100x1250 cutting area and cuts up to 4600mm/min without issues depending on material and endmill etc. Cost me less than $1800 but that was pre covid and I had cheap steel and aluminium as I live in an industrial area.

It is the dewalt metric tap set. It is pretty good. I love the quality of the taps but the actual wrench or the part that holds the taps is somewhat annoying when trying to use the smaller taps (M2-M4). But pretty good!

Thank you very much! The aluminum is an upgrade to replace the printed parts! The main frame will remain as steel. I would do the printed parts as steel if I could! Thank you so much for the support!

we hide in plain sight :D

For all the jigs used to tap the steel? I do, but they are updated slightly from time to time. The best way to get the most up to date ones, would be to check the PrintNC website and pull them from the fusion file! I also believe there is a thingiverse link to the files too! I can share the STLs I used, but they would be out of date 😬. Let me know!

@@AryaNakh That's great! I did not know there were jigs for that; I thought you got those externally; that's why I asked. Thanks :) What did you use to clean those metal tubes? need to paint soon (normal non spray) and got to clean it. Now that I see your video I do regret a little not spraying it haha

I used a metal descaler from my local metal shop. I believe it is basically a mixture of acids used to remove grease and the top layer of the steel (any rust). It helps make the spray paint stick better but it isn’t a vital step. I know a lot of people skipped descaling and just wiped clean! Yeah I’m the fusion, the assembly tools/jigs are hidden, just need to turn them visible, and then export mesh 😁

Hello! Yes, if you check the description, there is a link to the PrintNC website where all the most up-to-date files can be found!

Great question! The normal spec are Nema23 motors! The ones I have are 100mm 2.5nm steppers with a 8mm shaft

@@AryaNakh can larger motors be used?

@@jameschira8006 yup! All the files are adjustable (Parametric)! I know some people have used much bigger motors and even closed loop nemas! The great thing about the PrintNC is that you can download all the fusion files and make whatever changes you like!

@@AryaNakh What is the oz. size of the motors

I believe 357oz-in

Sorry about that. That is something others have said too, in subsequent videos I turned down the background music to be more background :)

这一切都花了我3000美元，也许

@@AryaNakh 有可以幫忙列印零件嗎？

@@user-mi8tr7gt5b 不和諧的人有時會出售它們，或者您可以在線支付公司費用為您打印它們！

Thank you!!

Hope it wasn’t too distracting! In the following videos, the music has been turned down significantly!

@@AryaNakh That’s great. Do you have valuable information to share. No reason to cover it with distracting noise. Especially for those of us who are hard of hearing. Thank you for spending the time to make the videos.

Well I encourage you to look at the design and look at the results and what it is capable of before judging it. Of course it will fall short of many professional machines, but as far as hobbyist machines, it ranks among the top! It uses steel tubing rather than aluminum and has an upgrade path where all plastic parts can be machined out of metal.

There is no purchase price as it is a fully custom DIY build. You can build one for around $1500 if you wanted or you could build one around $3000 if you wanted. It uses all ball screws, and linear rails. If you google the PrintNC, you will finally all the info and website as well. You determined it was junk design based on 1 picture?

Send me link so i can see kit prices and specs

@@shelby50411 google it bro

@@shelby50411you will not find another machine as capable which can be made as cheaply as this with hand tools. It is a very rigid machine for what it is. Don’t mistake the use of printed parts as a weakness before you see the results that you can get with those printed parts. Most ppl use the machine to upgrade the printed parts to aluminium parts once it’s built, but even with the printed parts it is still quite capable. The printed parts are mostly just for spacing or alignment not structural. (With the exception of the Y roller plates which are a great first aluminium project for the machine)