Thanks for sharing!

Great video! I just subscribed! I am also subscribed to Superfast Matt's channel and it is a great resource of useful information. His straight forward approach and breaking systems down makes it easy for the diy builder and pro alike.

I mean yeah, you usually don't have to use exactly what the videos use to get similar results. Just use the video as sort of a guide as to what direction you should go and use things that are good for your budget and standards.

This vette ain’t really my thing brother. That’s why it’s been sitting in the yard for the last 6 months while we’ve been working in the Chaos Theory Camaro. 🤣

That’s awesome brother! I’m glad to hear this video helped. If you could, please share it on social media so maybe the next person will find it easier! 👍🏻

Hello Adenkane Isme, Thanks for watching! Im glad this video helped you out!

Glad it was helpful!

Glad it helped

So nice of you

Yea most of the others I’ve seen just use another buss bar for grounds but this fuse block eliminates the need for a 2nd bar and saves space while simplifying everything. 👍🏻

Yea I’m out here right now trying to unscrew the temporary wiring I had put in place just to get the nitrous working. Lol

Glad to hear it

Thanks brother. Glad you found it helpfull

My pleasure 😊

Yes sir. Any hard plastic will work for sure!👍🏻

Thank you sir!

Thank you sir! Please be sure to share on social media if you think it can help others! It also helps the channel grow!

Thank you for watching, and for the comment! 👍🏻

Glad you enjoyed!

Thank you for watching and commenting! Glad this helped you out!

Probably could but I'm more about just helping others learn how to build it themselves. 😉

Thanks brother. I hope it was clear enough. I always feel like I'm not explaining well enough.😔

Bad Luck Garage well You can’t hold everyone’s hand plus if they can’t follow your basic instructions they probably don’t need to be wiring things up to begin with if ya follow me your pretty good at breaking it down into laymen’s terms not sure if it’s we’re both southerners or just your that good 👍🏻 but I believe most people should be able to get the just of it

😂😂😂😂😂😂😂

Thanks brother. I tried to make it as simplified as I could.

Thanks brother. Like I said in the video I actually have a piece of 1/4” thick plastic I plan to replace it with but just didn’t have a way to cut it at the time. I’ll probably take it to my uncles house and cut it out this weekend. 😉

Thanks for watching and commenting Darryl!

Thank you sir.

I’ll be dropping a video probably late tonight showing an even nicer option as long as you don’t need more than 6 relays and fuses.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qrKpqtZjsZy3Zp8.html

You bet

Great tip brother! Thanks for letting everyone know! I’m gonna pin this comment!

@@BadLuckGarage ty. Just trying to help out others, and great video btw

Then check out the Chinavette playlist.😉

Switches go to the white wires as explained at the 11:16 mark in the video and explained in even more detail at the 20:10 mark in the video.

I hope it helps somebody. I’ve got about 4 hours+ in that video after editing. 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣👍🏻

@@BadLuckGarage I'm sure it will brother I shared it on Facebook so it will help

I really appreciate that brother.

@@BadLuckGarage I know you do why I do it bud

I agree with you 100%. But what you have to realize is on KZfaq there are people with varying attention spans and varying ability to learn. So I try to simplify for those who don’t pick up on things easily. Once the relays are bolted down all in the same direction it makes it easier to just say “the top wire goes here, the bottom wire goes here, etc.” That way everyone can follow without getting confused. Take a look at some of the comments and questions on this video and you’ll see where I’m coming from. This isn’t rocket science, but for some people it may feel that way and that’s why I over-explain and over simplify things.

Agreed. It’s a great video but I feel mentioning the numbers even once, would have been super simple and beneficial..respect the simplicity aspect but accuracy is key so be nice to double check and confirm these colored wires are at the correct locations. Anyway, great vid

Thank you sir! Hoping it was understandable at least,lol.

Hello Jason. Your wire gauge should be based on the power usage of the device you are powering. There are charts you can find through google that will suggest which gauge wire to use based on amperage and length of wire. But for the most part, if your device fits within the 40 amp specifications of these relays, then the wire they come with should be fine. If you are pushing close to 40 amps or more then I like to simply split the lid between two relays.

Glad the video helped brother.

Thanks brother. Could have been a little more neat with it, but it’ll get the job done for 90% of people watching. 😉👍🏻

One is for the light, the other is for the accessory.

Thank you sir. This is just the basics but I thought it might help some people out. 👍🏻

Sounds like you need to watch the video again brother.

What gauge main power and ground you need will depend on your total amp load of all accessories.

Yep

And on the cheap, lol.

You can’t beat that! I need to build something like this. I’ve got a spaghetti monster behind my kick panel that I’ve been ignoring.

@@pushrodgarage8716 yea I just got in a hurry to get to the track and all the parts for the panel weren't here yet so I just threw some crap together. Now I'm finally getting around to building this panel and getting everything sorted correctly,lol.

That’s the fun part of building these things. Gotta slap them together so you can play with them and then go back and fix it up right. Haha for a while I was running my fans by plugging and pulling the fuse. No switches or anything.

lol, been there, done that brother!👊

I’m sorry brother, but I don’t fully understand your question. The “trigger” is just another term for whatever switch you use to turn on a relay.

@@BadLuckGarage correct, lol. do you use the same one for all relays or different one for each relay?

You would need a fairly large solid state relay if you wanted to wire it that way. The way it’s wired in the video none of the relays will have any power to them until you turn the switches on to lower them anyway. And your switches should be from an ignition hot anyway in most cases. So I wouldn’t worry about running a relay to the panel. If anything I would just run a large circuit breaker in between the battery and the power lead to the fuse box for added protection if you’re worried about moisture exposure or something of that nature.

Switches to white wires, Yellow wires out to accessory(lights) as explained in the video.

Absolutely! As long as the power load placed on each Relay is less than 40amps then you can run any accessory. So say you have two sets of lights and each draws 25 amps, you would run each light to its own relay. This example had 5 relays but you can build a relay panel as large or as small as you like.

@@BadLuckGarage well I'd be running like a 50" light bar which would be pushing the most but not for sure how much though

@@chrisp5937 should tell you on the back of the light or in the paperwork that came with it how many amps it pulls. 👍

@@BadLuckGarage ok thanks

@@chrisp5937 yes sir. Good luck brother. 👍

Sounds like you’ve either got a bad relay or you didn’t quit follow these instructions as well as you thought. If you built this exactly as shown, and your parts and connections are good, then it would function just as perfectly as this one does. 👍

Yes you can use a common ground.

Your switches will use a 12v key on source which should already be fused. if you decide to pull switch power from a constant 12v source then you should have that source fused as well. But all that should occur BEFORE the switches and has nothing to do with this accessory panel. If you just wanted to loop switch power through the fuse block on the relay panel of course you could just get a larger fuse block and do that, but in my opinion that’s just over complicating this entire thing. Especially since your switches don’t require much power anyway and can share a single power source to simplify wiring.

@@BadLuckGarage Thanks for clearing that up. I follow what you are doing. I will be using it for a sxs and was not clear on fusing the switches. But that makes sense to use a separate fused power source for the switch’s as the relay coils do not use much amps. Thanks again

You're welcome!

Thank you sir. I do what I can. 👍🏻

Glad the video helped out brother. 👍🏻

Thanks brother. Hopefully it helps some people out with the basics.

@@BadLuckGarage done every thing like yours no power from relays.

@Jeff Goins Then you obviously DIDNT do everything like mine or you WOULD have power from the relays. Lol. Seriously though, you obviously crossed something up if it’s not working brother. I’ve built dozens of these without any issues. Go back and recheck your work.

Depends on the amperage needs of your accessories. Just remember on a divorced terminal block such as the one used in this video, the amperage is rated PER TERMINAL, not total terminals. So each terminal can handle x amount of amps since they’re not connected to each other. So if it’s a 25amp block, it can handle 25 amps per terminal. If the accessory you’re powering needs 40amps, just split the load between two terminals on that accessory. If you need more terminals to do it that way then either order a block with more terminals or order a higher rated block. 👍

Obviously not. I explained the ground and power lugs on the fuse block in the first couple minutes of the video. If you don’t understand or skipped through it, I would suggest going back and watching that part again.

Just some attribute free music from the audio library. This videos almost a year old now so don’t really remember specifically.

Yes. They make this same style block with the built in grounds in a 12 fuse style as well. This would give you the potential to add even more circuits at a later date.

Yes

87

I’m hoping to start on it soon. I’ve gotta get this Z28 out of the driveway first but Rays ready to bring the Nova over anytime I’m ready. 👍🏻

You would hook it up exactly as described in the video.

Yes. Run the switches to the white wire for the relay you have designated for that particular light

LOL, yea leave it to a car manufacturer to come up with an over complicated sounding name for a simply device. It’s like calling a garbage man a waste management proffessional or a janitor a sanitation engineer. Or in my case, calling a bug man a Pest Elimination Specialist. 🤣

The wire coming from your switch is the trigger wire that I refer to in the video.

A couple months ago a KZfaq channel by the name of “Overland Bound” upload a video kind of like this and said “ that the large breaker is to handle all types of current from fridges to spotlights and other accessories”. I hope this helps.

Thank you sir!

For pins 87 and 30 I recommend using whatever gauge wire is needed to carry the load your accessory requires. For pins 86 and 85 it really doesn’t matter as these wires won’t be carrying any read load.

@@BadLuckGarage thank you

covered that in the video brother...you gotta watch the whole thing or you miss the details. 😉

Depends on how you set it up. The way I explain to set it up in the video no.

No. That’s why I removed the link. Most manufacturers have gone to the shorter leads now you if you need them longer you just have to crimp new terminals on longer wires. At least that’s what Ive been doing the last couple years.

@@BadLuckGarage Thank you for the quick response. I can unpin the plug and add longer wires with female ends.. After I replied to your vid. I found an Amazon site that sells just the plug with 12" leads. Thanks again. Keep up the excellent videos.

@@tombackes9557 do you have a link to those 12” leads. I know it’s been a while, can’t find them anywhere

Thanks brother. Hopefully you'll find some more helpful videos.....or at least some entertaining ones depending on which playlists you look at, lol.

Covered in the video.

Couldn't hurt. Nothing wrong with a little extra precaution brother.👍

Hello Ron that’s a great question! What you’re asking will be very easy. You wire everything as shown then if you want 1switch to control everything but only be on when ignition is on, run an ignition hot to one side of your main switch, then run a wire from that switch to any of the trigger terminals on the buss bar. Then simply take a small piece of wire from that trigger terminal to the next and another small wire from that terminal to the next, etc. when you flip the main power it will trigger all 5 relays on and all accessory terminals will be hot.

Bad Luck Garage But the same school thought is one Relay for each trigger

Yes. Each accessory will still have its own relay. You’ll just be triggering them all with one switch. It would be way easier to just explain with a picture rather than trying to type the explaination. Lol

You’re basically just tieing all the trigger inputs together if that makes sense.

Add up all your accessories total amount draw. If it’s less than 60 amps then it’s sufficient. If it’s more than 60 amps then it’s not sufficient. Keep in mind that some accessories may have an amperage spike when first turned on. So you’ll need to take that into account as well. As an example, a cooling fan may only draw 15 amps, but they’ll usually spike to more than double that upon initial activation.

@@BadLuckGarage that's a great info,, then I'll add up my accessories to be powered one by one to see the draw amount & the spike amount. From there I'll figure out how much Amp of a circuit breaker i should use. How do I know how many default load & draw of the battery prior to installing accessories, I'm a bit worried in case there's too much draw at a time which is killing the battery sooner than it should. Will 18awg wire for the accessories pulled from the distribution fuse box combined with 15amp on it will be able to avoid that problem as well? Any advice about this?🤔 Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us🤝🏻🤝🏻🤝🏻

@@BadLuckGarage i do quick read on the matter you mentioned & I'm grateful for it🤝🏻 Apparently, the ampacity rating depends on various factors, including the voltage rating, non-reactivity, density, flexibility, and flammability, to mention but a few. Of all these factors, the temperature is one of the most important. Higher temperatures tend to attract greater ampacity ratings than lower temperatures. This is why many professionals specify the ambient temperature whenever they consider wire gauges and ampacity ratings. They also consider the duty cycle because some loads, such as electrical motors, use more current during startup. The wire’s gauge and ampacity must accommodate that brief spike in current. Otherwise, you may start a fire. 😅😅😅