Hi Michael... Glad you liked the videos and plans. Great to hear all is going well. When done, you can share it on our website if you like (link is on homepage now).

dj kelley Thank you

The reason we went with LP Panels is cost and basic ease of installation considering it is just a shed. Hardie plank is far more durable and ideal for Vancouver - but, you would need to go with standard construction methods which means first applying sheathing (plywood or OSB), then a house wrap and finish with the Hardie Plank (I am assuming you are referring to lap siding?).

zubery I personally feel it is important to glue panels when no sheathing is used first, mainly for small sheds. However, if I was building a garage or house, I would use plywood sheathing first. Also, for larger sheds I would consider 5/8" LP Panels over the 3/8". It all depends on what you are building and severity of the weather in your area - especially high winds.

Country Life Projects & Living I can't find 5/8" LP Panels at the store. Is 3/8" okay for a 12x16 shed with 8 foot walls? Thanks for your videos!

Shane Rowley Hi Shane... I personally feel 3/8" is okay without plywood sheathing underneath for sheds up to 10' x 12'. However for a shed 12' x 16' I would feel better using plywood (or OSB) sheathing first for overall strength and wind resistance. Also, at 12' x 16' you might be obligated to use a building permit and follow code (subject to your location and building codes). Some areas require a permit at 120 sq ft while other areas allow much larger before a permit is needed. All that said, if you live out in the boonies and there are no codes to follow, it is up to you to make the final decision. If you do go with just the 3/8" panels, be sure to use enough glue and nails. Also be sure to use enough bracing until the glue has set and dried > until the panels are on, the framing does not provide much shear strength. You may also want to consider putting on the panels prior to the roof trusses etc (on the walls that is - the gable ends could be done after the trusses are up). P.S. You will know if you have enough bracing if you can push on any corner (both directions) of the shed walls and they do not move - same goes for the middle of the walls (it should feel pretty solid before you go onto other stages of the shed - and level of course).

Country Life Projects & Living Almost forgot... 5/8" LP Smart Side Panels (sometimes called Ranch Wall) is typically special order (you may have to ask). Smaller building stores are more likely able to order it than big chains.

I'm building a 16x12. All materials is gonna be about 2k. That's including floors, nails, siding, shingles, everything. Way better price & way better building than a pre-fab

For a few hundred dollars more. Try a few thousand dollars more. Fifteen years ago I was looking at a 10x12 shed at HD. And they wanted $ 5000. And if you read the fine print, that price is without the shingles. Also that was with 2x2 studs. I priced all the material to build a 10x12 shed myself. And I couldn't believe the markup they wanted for a prefab shed. I ended up building 2, 10x12 sheds and a 8x10 bathroom. For $ 5000. These prefab sheds are only ok for someone that doesn't want to build there own and that has the money to throw away. Other than that they are a complete rip off. I could see maybe a 30 percent markup. But not a hundred percent mark-up.

Our cost (in Vancouver BC) was about $2200 using good quality materials throughout. Currently with the new Trump tariffs on lumber, the cost in the USA may be higher subject to where the wood is coming from. So it is hard to say at this time what the cost might be. If you visit our website countrylifeprojects.com , we do have free costing sheets in excel that you can download for our shed sizes 8x10 and 10x12 - you would just need to figure out the extra materials need and add them to the sheets - these costing sheets total up the costs etc automatically and are easy to use.

Hi Juan... Eventually the siding may rot a little near the base (when is subject to the area you live and the weather of course). However, since the LP smart Panels we used are only 3/8" thick, the glue is needed for structural strength, without it the nails are the only shear strength for the walls - glue helps increase the strength of the shed tremendously. If in the future the panels need to be replaced, a sharp chisel will scrape off any remaining glue and debris. Painting the bottom of the panels and a little up the inside (on the backs) will help extend the life of the panels.

Great point! Thank you! PTL!

Hi Brad... The LP Smart Side panels (sometimes called Ranch Wall) are made to be used as a siding product (I think they use a different glue and surface prep). However, I do recommend painting the bottom edge and a couple inches up the back prior to installation just as precaution.

Yes I did (along the top at the trusses). Better to be a little shy than having the panel interfere with the roof sheathing later. And it is okay to be 1/4 to 1/2" shorter as the ladders cover all of that.

thank you!

Hi Redwood... With the size of the shed in our video, and the overhang we used, the joint between the upper and lower siding should not see a lot of rain. That said, in hindsight, If I was to shoot the video again, I would have gone over the use of a Z strip in more detail. If the joint in your siding will be exposed to rain or snow, you should use a Z-strip versus the 1x4 trim we used.

Hi Kyle... you can, but it will make installation of the soffit boards a royal pain in the butt. We did it this way so difficult to reach areas (and nailing) could be done first.

Hi Bee, sorry for the long delay. The router bit is a plunge bit and should not cut into the 2x4's - It will leave a rub mark depending on how hard you push against the 2x4 but that should be all. Success with your shed build!!

A flush trim router bit has a bearing near the tip that uses the underlying material as a guide. A plain straight bit will indeed cut into the stud in this type of use.

Good question Dave... if I had centered the panel on the 10' gable ends it would require the purchase of one extra panel - since you would need pieces about 34.5" on either side of the center panel, this would leave 4 cutoffs about 13.5" which could not be used anywhere else. You could center the panel as long as you adjust the stud spacing and buy the additional panel. I am currently creating new plans and will add this as an alternative (on plans where it makes sense). Thanks for pointing this out.

Theodore Baker Hi Theodore... normally for a house or garage you would, especially where the gable peak is high enough for rain to hit this area of the wall. However, for this shed(and after all, it is a shed), the area above this joint is not likely to see much rain... and as a precaution, I am pretty sure we recommend caulking the top edge of the 1x4 where it is flat against the LP Panels just in case (or for snow).

Hi Kevin... If you do not use a trim board with a bevel on top and caulked, as we did in the trim videos, you should use what is called a Z Flashing which is made for this purpose. If only using a Z flashing, then yes there should be a small space above the Z flashing to prevent water staying trapped between the flashing and bottom of the gable panels as these would rot faster. As far as painting goes, it depends on whether you are buying primed panels or pre-finished panels (most are just primed and pre-finished is typically special order). Pre-finished panels would not need to be painted but any edges would need to be painted and sealed (especially cut edges) and this would require buying a matching color. As far as primed panels go, visit this link from the manufacturer for painting requirements - painting primed panels and edges is recommended. lpcorp.com/blog/all-about-exterior-paint-for-lp-engineered-wood-siding

Hi Paweena... House wrap is intended to go on the outside of a structure and will not do anything on the inside - in fact it may cause issues and trying to fit it between studs will be a nightmare of a task. Typically if a shed or garage is to be insulated, you would use sheathing on the outside, then the house wrap and finally the exterior finish e.g. LP Smart Panels, siding etc. If the shed is to be heated, you will want to use a vapour barrrier over the insulation prior to applying the interior finish. I would also add gable vents if you plan to insulate to prevent moisture buildup in truss area (attic so to speak) if you are applying a finish material to the bottom chords of the trusses.

Hi... roughly 8D or 10D > roughly 0.13 inches (close to 1/8" thick). It is important to note that the panels provide the shear strength in the shed... hence the use of glue (which some say is not recommended but typically the recommendations if for larger buildings where more expansion/contraction occurs). However, without glue, even using 8d nails, I do not think nails alone in a 3/8 thick panel (especially if placed in groove which makes it 1/4" thick) would provide the required shear strength. That is why, IMO, this style of construction (no underlying sheathing) is only suitable for small sheds and glue is a must - especially in areas of high winds, earthquakes or heavy snow loads. So in regards to using 16 gauge pins? I wouldn't, but it depends on your location and forces on the shed as noted. Good glue like PL Premium or Liquid Nails is very strong so you may be okay with 16 gauge but you'll need to make that call yourself, and if you feel it is strong enough.

Hi Alex... Not silly at all! For the horizontal joint we opted to use the 1x4 since the joint is partly under the soffit and rain in the area is minimal. However, in areas with heavy rain, or wider structures, one would use a Z-Flashing. For vertical joints, the panels have an overlap of about 3/4" and the chance of water getting under this is marginal... if concerned, you could use caulking to seal the edge of the lap or under the lap but unless you get a lot of rain, it is not really needed.

PL Premium... but liquid nails or other good quality construction adhesive will work.

@@Countrylifeprojects , thank you!

Henry, one more question. Since I'm insulating, I presume I can't put the LP smart panels directly on the exterior, I would need to install plywood sheathing and Tyvek first. What type and thickness of plywood?

And one more... If I plan to install flooring on top of the 3/4" plywood, what provisions do I need to make with regard to mounting the door?

Hi Kenneth... Sorry for the delay, we have been evacuated for 3 weeks due to forest fires in central BC. I would lean toward the 1x2's with PT plywood since this will keep the plywood and insualtion up from the ground and less likely to be affected by moisture and water. For insulation I would use rigid or rockwool as both are resistant to moisture. Vapour barrier is critical when the indoor temperature is higher than the outdoor causing moisture buildup, but if you do not plan to heat the shed this should not be as critical. However if you insulate the walls and plan to finish the interior walls, I would add the vapour barrier just in case you heat it in the future - and for the price, it is cheap insurance that no issues will surface later on.

Would be a good idea... 3/8" is typical in most places... I personally go with 1/2" (or close since the extra cost is marginal)

I would install the door first and fit the flooring to the sill. If it is thin like lino or a rubber material, might be a good idea to use a 1/4 round along the sill to make sure the flooring does not curl up over time.

It has been a while but likely a Freud bit as they are readily available locally. But if you don't have these locally they are called panel pilot router bit with guide. You can check out a variety here on Amazon - amzn.to/2ZbXPkl . If you have a 1/2" shank router go for the 1/2" as 1/4" will likely not stand up as well or break under heavy use. If you are only doing a single project, 1/4" shank is okay, just go easy on it. The ones I linked to are nice as they have a cutting point and can just be pushed through the surface of the panels (or plywood and OSB sheathing as well as other materials). Lastly, make sure the cutting height of the bit is enough for the thickness of material you plan to cut out.

By the way, for rough work like this, CMT, Freud or Bosch will all do the trick. But I personally would buy the Freud or Bosch with CMT as the last option. Mainly because I have had a little vibration with few CMT bits (not all, most have been great).

@@Countrylifeprojects thanks for the help!

Hi Marco... For material application were nails will be exposed to weather we used galvanized nails.

HughMyronM8 In most cases it should be fine - as long as you do not get huge amounts of rain and high winds. The joint is high enough up that it should not have much rain above the trim. I also put glue under the trim and caulked along the top afterwards. On a house I would use a z flashing, but not on a shed.

Country Life Projects & Living I'm doing a big condo project, re-siding with these panels. Do you have any tips, tricks, and/or cautions for me. It's my biggest project to date, and I'm a little nervous about muckin' it up. Thanks so much for any help you might provide.

Jesse Thomas Hi Jesse... it is hard to say without seeing what you are up against, how old the complex is etc. However, if it was me I would focus on proper prep prior to installing new panels (good house wrap or equal). For any long stretches I would be sure to snap lines to make sure the panels are installed on a level plane which will ensure proper lap joints. I would be sure that stud spacing underneath is the same as the grooves in the panels(in other words, pick a good starting point). If you have the option, 5/8" panels will be more stable and hold better with nails(especially if you are not using glue which is possible if a proper house wrap is used. If the panels are to be painted after, I would spot prime (optional and subject to your bid/job allowance) any areas that will likely be subject to lots of moisture (bottom of panels, panel edges along flashing etc. - if you have a sprayer, this could be done in bulk where the panels are to be stored). Use proper flashing everywhere that rain water, snow or ice could be an issue and caulk all joints(where it meets other materials and lap joints. I would store piles of panels under tarp and flat(level) to protect against rain, snow or even sun. Above all, my main focus would be level, flat installation and close attention to any areas that water infiltration could be an issue. Being a townhouse complex, most units will be identical or similar - as such, I would walk around a unit and identify potential problems first, then plan accordingly - you may have to identify underlying issues after doing the first unit and adjust plans for the remainder. Hope that helps and success on the project!

Only matters if the cut edge will be exposed.

MJ69090 Hi...we used 2 1/4" galv finish nails - but 2" is okay considering all panels are glued as well.

Hi Jeff... Yes we used regular galv finish nails, but only in when used in combination with construction glue on the LP Smart Panels. For standard types of wood siding I would use proper siding nails.

Makes sense... thank you

+rafjr64 I have never heard of installing these panels any other way than vertically - the design of the panels is made for vertical installation. You may have come across a siding product of a similar name that is sold in boards/siding planks, in this case installation would likely be horizontal depending on the actual product.

+Country Life Projects & Living Thx for your reply. Is this the 38 series cedar panel as seen on p31 here: lpcorp.com/media/2863/lpsmartsidecatalog.pdf

To the best of my knowledge there are 2 types of panels - one is called LP Smart Side and the other Ranch Wall. As far as I know LP panels are OSB, and the Ranch Wall is plywood. Both are available in 3/8" and 5/8" (typically 5/8 is special order). It is possible that you have Ranch Wall.

Wesley Jackson .. yes the one I bought is not the same ..is made like carboard. With painted outside finish ..

Norman Jade Hi Norman... The panels we used have a lap joint which when install right and painted should be more than good enough for a shed. If you check out most sheds sold at Home Depot or elsewhere, none, or very few have sheathing and/or vapour barrier. Unlike a home, most small sheds are not heated... when you heat a building, then you need to build differently to allow for condensation and other related issues.

Well, typically you would have sheathing on the framed structure and then an exterior finish material. The sheathing provides shear strength. That said, a shed is not a large structure so it is not as critical, but the LP Smart Panels are only 3/8 thick and without the glue I would not feel 100% confident that the panels themselves are sufficient to provide the required shear strength. For the cost of a few tubes of glue and an extra 30 minutes of time to apply... in my mind this well worth the extra effort. In regards to removal, most people are not building their sheds to take them apart later - maybe demolish 20 years or more down the road but unlikely to be taken apart so I don't think this would be important - besides, we are hoping that when you build a shed like this, it will be around for a long time.

Thanks, that makes total sense. If you don't mind I have one more question. I'm in the process of redoing my garage. It had the old press board lap siding and it was almost completely rotted out especially the lower boards. I'm going to use 4x8 sheets of Smartside. The under sheeting on it now is that black press board stuff in sections and other places it has plywood. Can I take it all off and just reside it with Smartside or should I take the old black board off replace that with OSB and go over that with Smartside?

Hi FreeRange... Well there is a few things to consider here. First, is the size of the structure, a garage is larger and will need the shear strength and you may have to follow local building codes (for two reasons, a; insurance coverage b; resale down the road). That aside, if it was me, I would use the sheathing first, house wrap, and then the panels (or other ext finish material of choice). If the garage is not insulated (and will not be) and you want to apply finish panels direct to framing... you could check into 5/8" thick plywood Ranch Wall which is similar to LP Panels but 5/8" thick and "plywood" - and they are usually pre-primed or stained. Again, make sure this later option complies with local building codes. Lastly... and important, only do one side of the garage at a time - strip off and sheath each wall before doing the next. If you strip the entire garage there is no shear strength in the structure and it could collapse.

Exterior grade construction adhesive

Hi Curtis... If you were building an insulated structure, especially if it is to be heated, then you would have a framed structure with plywood sheathing, a barrier like Tyvec house wrap and siding or other exterior finish on top of that (the interior would be insulated, have a plastic UV resistant barrier and interior finish like drywall or wood finish. However, this is a shed, which in most case, will not be insulated or heated and does not need to be built to the same standards as a house or heated garage. Sheds over a certain size may require this in some areas but most under 120 sq ft do not. And most people do not want to spend a fortune on a shed that will typically holds tools, maybe a lawn mower etc.

Henry, wouldn't faced batts with their built-in vapor barrier be sufficient instead of a plastic barrier on the interior?

9929kingfish Hi King... as shown in the videos using good quality materials throughout, about $1800 to $2000. However, do note that we live in one of the most expensive areas of North America for all types of building materials. In some parts of the US or Eastern Canada I would think this could be brought down to $1500 > if you really shop around.

Great suggestion!

Hi John, very valid question - Before designing and building the shed, I observed how much rain was actually hitting the walls on our house and the neighbours house during heavy rains (different direction for wind/rain)... for the most part, with a 16" overhang, the first 5' from the peak down stayed dry, so I opted to eliminate the Z-flashing and use the method in the videos. After the shed was done, this proved to be the case too. Also, I liked the look of the horizontal trim and if Z-flashing was used, this trim would not work as the flashing would prevent the trim from sitting flat and tight to the LP Smart Panels.

When only using LP Smart Panels (Which are typically 3/8" thick at HD or Lowes) and no sheathing there is minimal shear strength if it is only nailed. Using glue adds a substantial amount of shear strength - considering many areas of the USA and Canada get extreme wind (or heavy snow loads) on occasion it is important to build with that in mind. Also, typically, by the time the exterior panels rot to the point of needing replacing, most people tear down old sheds and build new - some may replace the panels but I doubt if it would be very many.

The most common is OSB panels. But you can also get the same product in plywood in 3/8" and 5/8" (5/8" is much better). IMO, humid climate go plywood, dry climate OSB should do.

LOL... Nah... it is a very strong router. Still using it to this day (bummer they do not sell them anymore).