Thanks Robin, lots of useful tips here, even in what was a quick & simple project !

I use a small piece of plywood , I drill a hole the same size as the diamond bit and attach double sided tape to the plywood, feed the diamond bit through the plywood, line up the diamond bit with the mark on the tile the push the plywood to the tile and stick it on and the drill, guaranteed not to move. You can take the plywood off when half way through or keep going until you have drilled all the way. I also use the same proceedure on all size diamond bits, I haven't broken a tile yet! Use plenty of water especially on the large bits. A hint from the Skill Builder is to dill through soft material to unclog your diamond bit, keeps it sharp.

Being an apprentice your videos are a god send, please keep doing what you’re doing

I agree with Robin - You can find anything you need on the internet - I even know of a bloke who purchased a Dumper on on the internet..😇 Great sauna bench!

Robin takes everything to another level......

Hi, Robin I cheated when I first started to drill tiles, I pinched the ideas from somebody Who was much cleverer than me. You may know him His name was Robin Clevett. So, I watched how you did it a long time ago. And then I've never looked back. So, thank you very much for the Information on how to do it again. You did tell me long time ago and I've never forgotten it.

Nice job Robin as usual

When drilling with that tile bit after you get started get a old squirt bottle "windolene or the like" fill with water a spray as Yr drilling saves time when u drill 👍

I use a squirt bottle and give it a spray when the tile dust turns pasty and the bit stays cool and lasts longer

The "rod" idea is so simple and useful. I'm an electrician and security installer but i use "rod" even in my work. I use it for things like trunking and conduit amongst many other things

I use a wet sponge or cloth around the bit when drilling porcelain, it keeps the bit cooler and controls the slurry

fantastic bench, be carful of fingers near where the door open, especially if children are about. you could lose your fingers.

Good tips Robin. I use a small cordless Hilti SDS Rotary hammer with built in vacuum. Along with 4 Cut Kango masonry bits. I'm drilling tiles every other day with this setup. Quickly and with no probs.

old school for me drilling tile, masking tape and a masonary bit (no hammer on drill) - takes a while and you have to be careful not to force the bit through - just patience and high rpm with a cup of water.

very very good

A timely video Robin as I have just completed building and cladding a sauna with only the benches to do👍My customer was thinking about Larch or Cedar for the benches, but that Alder looks very nice🤩 (I also use the 'dip n push' technique when drilling hard tiles😮) Cheers

good choice of material👍alder for benches and lava boards, aspen-wall and ceiling cladding. For sauna only leaf tree👍

Fantastic as ever👌

Lovely video! Really inspirering to have a go yourselves, nice find that sauna wood

Great brush-skills by the young fella in the background 😂

Put the drill on a slower setting and you wont need to cool the bit so much. Will actually work out quicker to drill the hole.

Great video !!!! Thank you

How do I buy you a beer, I enjoy your content, as a fellow tradey but in the electrical world there's something about watching other trades doing wizardly things 😂

You should just run the drill bit in the water each time you dip, you'll be surprised how much more comes off the drill bit, leaving it cleaner when you carry on.

1:54 Have you tried the Bosch Hex 9 for hard Ceramics? They are really good. I know it's not ceramic tiles you have there but it made for porcelain, marble and granite

whose that young lad in the back ground moving at the speed of light robin.. lol

I know no ones going to be laying down on it but Id not sleep easy without at least a leg in the middle haha

Hi robin. Massive fan of your videos. I see you use alot of different brands of tools just wondering if you had a favourite?

Will you treat the wood or leave it natural?

Hi Robin , my paslode 2nd fix gun is playing up lately and they want silly money to repair it . I was thinking of purchasing a Hikoki 16Ga battery only 2nd fix gun , do the paslode nails fit this gun as I have a mountain of such nails , do you think the Hikoki gun is worth the cost or is it still best to stick with paslode , your opinion will be of value to me but not binding 🙂. Keep well , Dermot Kelly .

❤❤❤

Took your curved wall down for the vid, that's commitment 🤪

Thought you was going to make a work bench, not a seating bench. Ace video though, great attention to precision

😮

Can you make a whisky cabinet?

Great video mate ,any news on the roofing square sale date , thanks

Use glass drill bits not dimond.

Great video as always. The only thing I was confused about was the use of sauna wood for a wet room? Aren’t saunas incredibly dry rooms? Everyone I go in them the air is like desert air, painfully dry. Steam rooms are very wet, but saunas always seem very dry and hot. I know in the manual ones they pour some water on the stones, but that doesn’t seem to wet the air. What I do know is that hit air can hold way more water than cold air, so the fact that the air is so incredibly hot, the water is just locked into the air and doesn’t get on anything, if it was cold the water would condensate on things around the room and also be visible in the air s water vapor like mist and fog. Maybe I’m wrong, but seems like cedar oak may be better for wet rooms?

lovely bit of work thanks for that, are you going to be at Kempton next week?

Are 4 screws really going to be strong enough if 2 people sit on it?

Great video Robin. Can I ask what brand the work trousers are?

great video are they ForgeFast screws ???