Can't wait to see more progresss. Very cool build!

In my opinion: you have reached a point where you might consider the purchase and use of a metal lathe! Threaded rods will take you so far. Those threads will amount to an incredible amount of frictions (very inefficient) and grind everything to a pulp. Keep at it! You will get there Thx for sharing

Man that looks like it'd be fun. I get using threaded rod, for a template, but welding nuts on brake rotor, pulleys and using threaded rod for permanent usage with not be the best idea. After you get everything lined up, take accurate measurements, then use solid bar, keyway it. Build hubs for your brakes and pulleys. Nothing will be distorted. You are going to want everything tru with no doubt anything will loosen off while riding. Your Handel bar steering, amazing. Never thought of that.

Looking good, almost time for a test drive.

love it. Why not final drive with the chain and keep the belts up out of the mud etc?

Your belt tensioner is on the wrong side for effective forward travel. The way you have it the load is pulling against the tensioner. Move it to the bottom and it will work much better.

Best welds I've seen today!

The idler pulley needs to be on the slack (bottom) side of the belt. The power is transmitted to the axle through the top side of that belt (the way you have it positioned). The idler pulley is going to break right off if you leave it on that side of the belt, plus you're not going to get good power transmission to the axle. By putting the idler on the slack side of the belt it only take a fraction of the effort to pull the belt taught and get it to grab the other two pulleys.

Hey, where do i get the parts from and how much will they cost?

a belt drive walk behind commercial mower would be a great base for something like this, very good job man

COOL THINKING MAN....love it..

Great progress! I'm starring at your track wheel,axle & disc brake and I can see your next VAWT project come to life. (Or I should commission you to build one for me) Also, if you need a close up shot of a snowmobile track, give me a shout

How hard would it be to make it all electric

What all do u need to build one of these?

What kind of welder are you using? Tig mig or stick? There is room for improvement.

Wow, nice work! Really great to see this working :-) Greetings from germany!

mae adónde tiene el proyecto yo soy de Heredia me gustaría verlo en persona

Once I got into the deeper snow there was more of it drifting around and would end up on the belts and I was hoping to not have an issue with that on the double belts, I have currently junked out that machine and am thinking about a new design. You may want to think about moving the tensioner pulley on the bottom (slack) side of your drive belt as you drive forward the belt will naturally want to tighten up on the top, that’s something I had some issues with but I really like how open things are to get work on them and the overall design is pretty cool

Nice work. Pura Vida from Canada! :P

Great،thanks for sharing,im thinking of building a tractor with like 8 of 200cc engines،with a light body ofcourse,i think it would work.what do you think?

Move the drive spring higher up on the lever. Thjat will give you the pressure you need!

I’m a little late, but if you had an open Diff your could apply brake on one side and the power will go to the other track.

put bottom belt guard to to keep the mud off when you go mud bugging lol

That is a good idea using the belt release like from a lawn mower. My idea was to use the rear end from a gas golf cart. Has a pulley for the belt and a differential. Plus they use cables to operate the brakes and you can buy a cable run disk brake kit for under $200. With a differential if you stop one side the other speeds up twice as fast cause then the spider gears act like a planetary gear setup. And most gas golf carts have reverse and that would be nice too. I love your whole build and I'll be watching it closely.

Молодец !!! Классный аппарат

Should use rodstock the same size of the bearings rather then threaded rod, the threaded rod will eat right through the bearing sleeve. If you lengthen the section the spring is attached to you should get a lot more leverage increasing belt tension.

I still do not understand yet about the pulley transmission change one side of the wheel faster and make the vehicle turn .

that quite a bit of wobble on that brake disk

Very good my friend.

Have a positive rear end so that has more torque it's going to have more torque on what side cause you to have slippage

First time I see something like this.

Hey this is sweet !!!! Its been 2 months lest see you rip around on this!

δυνατοοοοοο! μπραοοο φιλε!!!!!!!!!

I will build one myself good job 👍

is there a video after this one? i clicked the box that said next but it didnt do anything :(

u thought of moving yr spring higher on yr tenshion bar. further from a object the more force u can apply with less effort. kinda like picking up a car with your body weight a long pipe.

Building my own and just curious if all the pulleys have to be the same size?

Use better steeol for the alxle. Use better perrifial equipment, (Brakes, flanges and so forth) But keep that threaded rod set up! That's a really good design tool! But it won't hold up under load!

наш человек ))) из всякой херни собрал самоходку )) молодец !

Music ?

Ini orang sangat kreatif banget 👍

Everything is wobbly.

Parabens , Obrigado pelo video...

Motor berapa cc ?

If you make another one, for your transmission set up look at racing go kart parts. They make 1" axles with a 1/4" key way the length of the shaft. You then could use a kart brake hub, rotor and caliper. There are also locking collars with a key way that you could weld your drive pulley to. The easiest way is to use a peerless riding lawn mower differential. (they have them at Northern Tool). Bolt a drive sprocket to the differential and put brakes on each side for the steering.

Me gusta la creatividad 👌💪

i looks like that belt setup with throw the belt of under use

But you definitely thought outside the box on this like the idea of you put another brakes cuz like you got there on that side identical positive traction and braking

I think that you are going to have some alignment problems with you sprockets and pulleys. When you screw them on the shaft the nuts did not appear to be welded on true. Interesting concept though. As an old heavy equipment mechanic, I suspect you are going to need more durable materials than I see.

music?

You used a similar suspension system as the sherman tank

A set of plans maybe? Or at least a set of sketches showing the steps?

I know this is years old but.. I have an idea for a better transmission. Get a used power steering pump or a rebuilt one for each side. Spin the pump with the chain drive. Run hydraulic lines to a hydraulic motor on each wheel. With pressure bypass and control valves you can have a real incredible transmission much easier than one would think. Or use electromagnetic clutches on the pump pulleys and switch them on and off to steer. Or do both

у вас что ,с нормальными ключами беда?

I would recommend taking some welding classes!!! Welding is real easy with the right instruction and knowledge of selecting the right wire or rod, Them welds their are real bad!! But awesome idea u got their

thanks for the video you may want to lose the music though. It's very annoying

good job

What kind of engine is in this machine?

They make four wheelers, why not just make tracks to put on one ?

What is the intended use of the vehicle?

Nice work mate! Are you going to cover the pulley areas to stop them from getting wet/dirty? I want to do an upscale version using an LS1 Chevvy motor which I have laying around doing nothing. I think the turning will be easier to do because of the differential, hydraulic brakes and an automatic transmission. But the custom frame and tracks will be the harder part of the build. I hope to see more progress soon!

CUT THE MUSIC BACK

Sangat mantap skali

Nice how-to! What's the music track?

you can use differential gear like the car rear axle

Very good

These belts are just going to go up in smoke. I'm having the smoking belt problem with my go-kart. ( Homemade two engine Go-kart ) I have used up like 8 belts, one belt for like every two hours of use. =(

Hey, buddy, I wanna do this prototype. I wanna help.

you should be working at DARPA

Nice Work, but the solutions with the thread rods and screws are crap. Screws are great to pull things together, but weak agains sideforces. If you use Tubes the screws will hold longer and the Brakedisk can not go free Sorry for my bad english, if you answer, write slowly, i can not read so fast english ;)

Brake calipers are on backwards. Bleeder screw should be at the highest point in order to bleed properly.

Hi all. The author has done that has raised such a device. of course there are a lot of weaknesses. But I am sure that you will fix it and all will be well. Good luck to all. P. S Hello from Russia.

You’d be better of using a zero turn lawn mower chassis and drives might be a bit more simple drive train to work with, being that the controls are perfect for a tank set up. I d love to do a build like this but the track and suspension would be the biggest challenge for me and I don’t have the time. Just my 2 cents…

Your belt tensioners need to be on the bottom of the belt not the top ! The reason for that is the top part of the belt is what is will actually have all of the pressure on it and if You put the tensioners on top then the belt will be pulling against them and trying to make them slip, on the bottom the tensioners just have to take up slack in the belt and do not have to hold the power transfer also!

I HAVE READ SOME OF THE COMMENTS,, NOT VERRY MUCH ENCORIGEMENT.. DO YOUR BEST. IF YOU GET STUMPED> CALL A FREINDY ENGINENER . LOOK AT OTHER PROJECTS.. IF SOMETHING DOES NOT WORK. RETOOL RE THINK DO OVER. THE WRIGHT BROTHERS DID NOT GET IT...WRIGHT THE FIRST TIME..

Maybe chain drive do away with the belts?

As peças ficaram um pouco tortas as flanges ...

Hello! The Idler pulley should be on the slack side of the belt drive not on the drive side. It looks like you have it on the wrong side. The belt tightens itself under load and the idler simply takes up the slack... Good work!!

I like it

I wouldn't mind riding it.

awesome bro

I like the concept but if the belts get wet could cause some issues it did on mine.

Less release on the pulley and more bite. It looks really loose and your gonna lose a lot of steering ability with that. Maybe introduce a v-notch pulley like on a CVT for a four wheeler or sled. More tension more bite, but you’ll never fully release it and risk it jumping off the drive

Nice design set up with the pully, however if you are having slipping why not just got to farm store and get two chain drive gears they have large small and you can ratio it to small to large and add chain drive. I see you are working in a right direction either way...

I'm enjoying watching you design and build this thing. I am having a hard time finding all your videos after part 9. They were all titled the same and numbered up to that point, and then there was no more continuity. It was easy to search for them that way. The names of the videos changed and there were no more part numbers. If its possible to edit the titles, could you go back to the way you were titling and numbering them in the beginning, to make it easier to find your videos and to be able to watch them in order? You're doing a great job, and I look forward to your next video........ if I can find it. LOL

Seems like it'll snap pretty easily

is this a human sized tank? or RC?

You should have used hydraulics much easier to make this also a lot more torque available

عالی وآموزنده

I'm curious why you chose to use a belt drive system for your transmission. I see you're putting a load of work into the belt tension clutches & brakes (which will need trued up a bit, I think) which wouldn't have been necessary if you went the more "traditional" route of having your motor drive the tracks through a hydraulic pump, pushing fluid through hydraulic motors through a "two stick" system (2 reversible hydraulic valves) to drive/steer/stop your tracks.

Your idler looks in wrong position. Idler should add up contact on v belt, not decrease the contact (the more contact the more effective your vbelt). That is why you have slippage. You might need to add another belt to make it more effective. But I would rather use chain and simple pressure plate using spring assembly for release.

不错

nice

See about getting yourself a lathe. The runout on those brake discs are going to cause you problems. Your design skills are clearly ahead of your equipment availability. That's a good thing. But now you need to correct it.

I'll pay you cash money for a detailed write up on your track system.. I'm building one currently from a zero turn mower.

Такие ответственные узлы лучше, всё же, делать на шлицевой посадке)))

Just use hydraulic system. Left hand drive, right hand drive. Trying to use handlebars to steer this I dunno.. also brakes are not needed with hydraulics just throw them in forward and reverse all the time.. reverse are the brakes with hydro gears..

عمل جميل

where yo ubuy msot of the parts from?

Full chain drive that screams malfunction and I'm stuck come get me lol