Yes, I have sold 4 bikes and bought some too, but I think you could of have went a bit more indebt about properly checking the bearings and everything's that's not supposed to move. For example how much knock is okay and how does it actually feel like, even for me who worked on my bikes multiple times and rebuild a couple of them this is way too fast for a beginner to understand what to actually look for when buying a bike. For example all seatposts that are adjustable have some play in them otherwise they wouldn't function properly. I really think that about 15 to 20 minutes is more then enough to explain everything properly. Pleas don't take this at the negative note, I find you're making an excellent work, but the small details are that matter, at least in my opinion.

All the time most have not been ridden my latest is a 2008 Ibex ignition full suspension mountain bike it was brand new for 300 dollars outstanding bike lots of retro mountain bikes with low or no miles

Bought a few secondhand mtbs, definitely a mix of experiences, good and bad. Worse experience: bought a bike for my son - crack in downtube had been very deliberately hidden, I demanded my money back from the seller, all ok in the end but I was annoyed with myself for not spotting it. Its becoming increasing difficult to justify buying anything less than near-perfect secondhand as replacement parts are still ridiculously expensive, whilst discounts on new bikes are so big.

I bought a secondhand mtb a few weeks ago. Specialized Rcokhopper. Was a very smooth buy, because the buyer had not lied one word about being it brand new. He had only ridden it once and he had bought it brand new. So that was a nice and lucky buy....and it turned out the guy who sold it lived 5 minutes from my house, so I didn't have to drive to pick it up.

Didn't want to pay the price for a new gravel bike so I bought an older cyclocross bike, purchased a second hand 26er full suspension all mountain 160mm travel bike for jump lines at Duthie Bike Park, saved lots of money buying the cyclocross, they don't make anything full suspension similar to a dirt jump bike in a 26er that I could see to learn with, so, I bought the all mountain size large160mm travel 26er bike. I'd just add check all critical bolt tightness including pedals, stem, wheel axle bolts and spoke tightness before heading out on the first ride but all major purchase checks seemed really very good, well done!

Good tips! Thanks for sharing 🤘

Jump in totally blind. It's a rite of passage & best way to learn!

It's all down to time/risk, the welding process weakens the frame meaning it would need heat treating again. This can cause problems in itself, the main one being the frame could warp. So most people avoid it as its quicker/less risk to buy a new frame.

As they said above the welding is kind of risky, buuuttt if it's on a place where nothing significant is mounted (forks, shocks any kind of bearings). Welding introduces warpage into the metal doesn't matter how good the welder is.

It depends on the alloy. If the frame is made from 6061 it needs a heat treatment after a welding. If it's 7005 you can store it for 3 months after welding and it gets the same strength as before. 7005 was specially developed to avoid a heat treatment, the frames hardened during assembly and transport in the container.

Very true!

Just be careful. I got mine and it was an amazing deal but it wasn't assembled correctly and they damaged the transmission bolt. Warranty claim has been back and forth for weeks. They are sending me new parts but I got tired of waiting on them and bought my own parts. Still a great deal though.