I did bulk priming (referred to here as batch priming) for about 10 years. Never had an issue. You don't have to stir. Rack the beer from your fermenter to a bottling bucket with a sanitised silicon hose set up so that it forms a whirlpool. Gradually add your sugar as a liquid (in my case sterile water and dextrose powder). Mixes perfectly and DOES ensure you have exactly the same amount of sugar in every bottle. Alway got way better results vs sugar dosing or carbonation drops. Way more consistent from bottle to bottle. I pressure ferment and carb kegs using CO2 now, so that's all behind me, thank goodness!

I've been fermenting under to produce fully carbonated beer for over 3 years, for me it's a no-brainer if you've got the equipment 🍻🍻

I've been brewing for 10 years and to this day I still use carbonation drops in the bottle, although depending on the beverage, I've started experimenting between 1 and 2 drops per 500ml bottle. Case in point, stouts, ESB's and milds I'll just use one drop, and for (some) IPA's, lagers and ciders I'll use 2 drops. As I only brew 6 bottle batches, I find this method much easier than messing about with mini kegs and CO2 canisters or attempting to batch prime and ending up with some bottles carbonated and others not.

Fascinating, subscribed!

I’ve been batch bottle conditioning for years,I always mark the last two bottles as they can be a bit more funky than the rest of the batch,never had any issues,use different amounts of sugar depending on the style

Great vid fellas. I always now spund near the end of the ferment especially with beer that is dry hopped. This way to me works as you get little biotrans when the hops react with the yeast as they have fermentable sugars in them but also contain the aroma somewhat from leaving the fermenter and carbonating at the same time. A win all round I think. Cheers

Interesting video. I'm still using old school methods and typically split the beer batch as it leaves the fermenter, with some going into individually primed bottles and the rest going into a batch primed pressure barrel with a CO2 injector. The bottles are for sharing with friends or keeping as an 'archive'. Recently some of my brewing buddies (with more experience than me) have been over carbonating in their kegs and bottling clear, over carbonated beer directly from the keg. This seems like a good idea as they end up with clear beer in the bottle and no yeast sediment.

Great video again, cheers! I am completely with Rob on bottle priming. I've tried both methods, and the only way to get consistent priming is to add sugar to each bottle. A full set of SS measuring spoons is invaluable. When you batch prime, it is impossible to know how much sugar is going into each bottle, and I've had bad results with some being over-primed and others underprimed, despite gently stirring the beer (thankfully no bottle bombs though!). You still get homebrewers saying "priming each bottle is inconsistent, batch priming is much more accurate", it beggars belief!!

Really enjoyed this video. I’ve been batch priming for bottling and have had some really annoying results. Sometimes I get it right but sometimes I get it wrong. It’s certainly inconsistent. Thinking about returning to Rob’s method of priming individual bottles. Is there a calculator for different styles for bottling conditioning? A friend of mine bought me a digital spoon scale for Christmas which might help!

muito bom Portugal

The only thing with forced carbonation is that if one of the seals is not seated properly you can come back the following day and find you have a empty co2 cylinder. Make sure you test the seals before you leave the carbonation to do it's work.

Really helpful video...do you do a similar one on how to Nitro and C02 a Stout in a keg? Be really helpful as I seem to use loads of Nitro cartridges when I do it and would appreciate a video on that aspect if possible?

Dosing each bottle with the right amount of sugar/sugar solution is best. Batch dosing is a bit fraught...you can't take it out again and that's a whole brew at risk.

30psi then shake works for me. When you re connect it you can hear the gas run in. Do it 2 or 3 times will get you upto 2 volumes from residual. Then use a temp/psi chart, about 15psi at 7c in the fridge and it'll sort itself out over a day or so. Gas in the beer out post just doesn't work the way you are thinking. All the gas will just rush to the headspace as the bubles will be too large. 'Henry's law'

In the past I didn't always prime bitters if the brew went well and the bottles always ended up carbonated, but when I did prime I always added the priming sugars direct to the bottle. Just recently I have been trying batch priming because it seems the 'modern' way to go, but as mentioned in the video, I've found it to be a little inconsistent and I have ended up with some over-carbonated beers. So I think I will be going back to the teaspoon method again for my British beers - sometimes the old ways are the best.

Great video and super informative. Thanks! Quick question though. If I am bottle carbonating with priming sugar but have cold crashed at the end of fermentation, should I be adding bottling yeast too?

I could never get bottle priming quite right. I tried Brewfather calculations, measuring sugar on very accurate scales, but I’m unable to store bottles at consistent temperatures. Now I just gas up in a keg and use a Beer Gun.

Great vlog as always chaps. When bottling I use a sugar solution to pour into the beer and then one sugar drop to each bottle as I find two is too much but one is not enough. I’ve now moved on to all grain brewing and have bought my first keg and pressure fermenter so looking to give it a go with the Munich hells from TMM 👌Can I ask where you get the big bottles of co2 from rather than using the bulbs or soda stream bottles👍

Great video. I have have bottled in the past using the batch prime method. I am interested whether attaching a spunding valve to the fermzilla would generate enough co2 naturally? From there I would transfer to bottles without adding more sugar. I would be doing a Scottish Export style.

I always allow mine to naturally condition in keg or pressure barrel. Not had problems with 'leaking vessels' or lack of condition. I use the minimum amount of light spray malt as my priming sugar. I've never bottled direct from a fermenter. Am interested in the Duotight bottling gun recently featured as a way to bottle bright beer. Have also just done my first experiment with pressure fermentation, could be a game changer for the right beer style. Quick note about avoiding sediment - I've tried floating pick ups with variable success, if the tube is too long it tangles and the opening ends up above the beer surface. Using the MM branded kegs, the opening at the top is too narrow to fit a float through. I've trimmed the metal dip tube and added a section of beer line with a simple sediment trap which has worked well.

Hi guys great video. Can i ask if when your force carbonating (shaking) and you say to leave it for a period of time are you disconnecting/turning the gas off for this? Or are you truning it down to serving pressure?

Great video and some good carbonation methods to try. I'm looking to carbonate a 12l keg for the weekend and use the 'Shaky Shaky' method. I just had one question do I adjust the pressure depending on beer temperature ie if my keg is already refrigerated do I set the psi to 10-15 and equally if the beer is room temp do I go 25-30? Would force carbonating a chilled keg at 30 psi cause over carbonation? Really don't want to end up with a foaming mess!

Great video guys, lots of really good information but its too much. break it down into a series with the practical demonstrations (you are usually so good at it), show the results from each method , explain the pros, cons and variations. I have watched all your videos and will continue too however you can cover this topic far better. Please do

If force carbing what temp do you want the beer to be? Colder is better right?

Hi there do you stock and sell the little “Mesh baskets” (metal filters ?) for floating dip tubes you show at 13.16 into the video. I searched on your website and couldn’t find them. Might just be me being a bad searcher though !!

Great detailed video. Wonder how mainstream pubs dispense perfectly carbonated “cask conditioned real ales” using hand pulls (beer engines), without resorting to pressurised carbonation?

For the 4th methods questions is how long to do carbonate to reach volume of CO2?

Hah, this video came in just perfectly as I usually get under-carbonated beer (that is still ok to drink). I guess I'm too afraid of bottle bombs to add enough priming sugar. Question though: while bottle carbonating, what is the best temperature to store the bottles? Same as fermentation temperature or lower?

If you pressure ferment and keep the CO2 produced from fermentation, would you set the spunding valve a little higher than what you want the final beer to have in it because once the temperature drops in the fridge the pressure will reduce as it finds it easier to dissolve into solution at lower temps?

I'm now really confused, I'm new to brewing and my last brew of lager was really under carbonated, I added a carbonation tab to each 500ml bottle. Tomorrow I'm bottling another batch (my 2nd lager brew) and I was going to batch prime but now I don't know what to do, can anyone please help with exact grams of sugar needed per 330ml and 500ml bottles and please don't type "it depends on your recipe" I actually really do need help with this. Cheers

Fermenting in a keg is fine if: Your beer is reasonably clear before transfer You use a high flocc yeast such as Notts, M42, BRY97

About the 10 minute mark....hazy beer = lazy beer. Any fool can make a hazy beer. It takes skill to make a clear beer. Wake up people. Fermzilla batch priming via the hop-bong works for me, FWIW.