Hey! Yes thats one thing you could do I guess, as long as your cleaning and sanitising is on point for the cube. The main things you can do if that is the case is using enzymes to break down the longer chain sugars but you're at higher risk of the beer then over attenuating and ending up very dry. We've not used a fish tank style pump to add air to the FV but we are about to embark on looking into adding pure oxygen... more to come on that in the next few months!

Hey! I see your point and it's a good one to put forward but there are a few reasons that this might not be the best way to ferment, firstly the trub is still in there along with the hop matter from the boil, which ideally you want to separate from the wort when you decant to the FV Secondly, yeast activity may damage the element over prolonged exposure and then thirdly (the main one) is that you cant get another brew done if this is then taken up for a few weeks with fermenting wort inside. All of this aside, it's generally good practice to have separate equipment for both brewing and fermenting, mainly due to sanitising and prevention of carry over of yeast or bacteria from different batches.

Yeah, we had a few fun moments getting our first one of these set up too... One thing we didn't cover is that you might be better using a length of wider tubing and then a reducer to get to the size on the beer/gas line

We used the Pale Ale water profile on the Grainfather App for this one. Ca2 - 100, Mg2 - 5, CaCO3 - 80, SO4 - 325, Cl - 50, Na - <100, pH 5.4

Haha! Yes, but due to release schedules it didn't line up! It came in 2 points higher, probably due to oxygenation of wort, which is a topic we will be coving in the next few months as we test out some practices. As we have heard from James at Verdant, their yeast can be lazy and will stop doing its job if its life is made at all difficult.

Ideally you would want to pitch yeast separately as you’re meant to use double the standard pitching rate to further the pace of the fermentation.

Glad you enjoyed it!

Yes it can, I wouldn't use RO as the PH can be out of whack and be more acidic

Yep, no reason you can’t do that! Generally you want to double the pitching rate into the sample you’re forcing through the fermentation

Agreed, we've tried loads of different ways to stop the splash when yo take off the collection vessel but it always ends up with yeasty hands (and floor)

Check out our brew with @doorstepbrewing where we made one! - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/obR3qN1pl7_Pe5s.html

Thanks for the info!

Hey! Glad you enjoyed the videos, really great to have time with the team at Verdant! So we went with 72 hours in our kit in the end, mainly due to contact time replication. The size of the FV's they use means there is a lot of contact time as the hops drop through the FV, we went for 72 hours with some CO2 rousing through the process to push them back into suspension. Take a look through the instructions for all our tips and tricks for brewing this amazing kit! www.themaltmiller.co.uk/product/sundialerclone/

Awesome! Glad you enjoyed it!

Distilled water for car batteries is an option or make your own using an air still 😉

No, it was force carbonated. Generally we don't batch prime into kegs due to the time needed at a warm temperature post fermentation and also the sediment this can create in the keg.

@@themaltmiller8438 how do you force carbonate at the malt miller. I've not had much success carbonating in a keg so far

@@mikejones-zy1tn take a look at this video for our methods 🍻 - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jM-GfqealsC5XWQ.html

Oh wow... that sounds like fun!

I've just done mine after changing the battery - would be interested in other views ..

Some would say every time you want to use it, others would say periodically. It's really about how precise you wish to be on the topic

If I recall my student days correctly, you did have to keep glass bulb sensors in buffer solution so they were ready to use after calibration. As the pocket pH meters are not in constant use they should be calibrated each day they are used. Happy to be corrected,

That's right. The ideal storage solution is a potassium chloride solution at the concentration specified for your meter. You can use the the ph4 buffer solution as an alternative, and that's handy since you also need that for calibration.

The one we sell says to store dry after use on the instructions. Others may vary, check your manufactures instructions for the details on how best to store

Glad you liked it!

Hey Ron! It was 85% Pilsner malt, 10% Light Munich, 5% Chit. - Then Flex for 12.5 IBU's at 60min, 6.8 IBUs of Mosaic & 7.7IBU's of Strata both at 10mins. 1.25 g/l of Mosaic and Strata for whirlpool (30mins at 80c) and the 1.25 g/l of Centennial, Mosaic and Strata on the Dry Hop. We did a 40l batch to split over the two FV's

Superb, that’s next brew day sorted. Will also get some Flex too!

You could certainly use this to replace the brew enhancer and it will result in a much better end result than using sugar, or potentially the brew enhancer.

Great, love this comment! Very helpful! We have done the squeezing the bottle thing before and it works a treat!

Thanks for that and very true!

I think we did but cant remember fully! We kept it really simple and used our Murphys water report to get the water as close to spec as we could, just using their IPA recommendations

Thanks for watching

No problem 👍

Not yet but they will be in stock soon

That is awesome! Thank you for this comment!! 😉

Pressure Fermenting and serving from something like a keg king junior or chubby is a game changer for having no space especially as you can serve a decent amount of beer from the natural co2 created.

@@Jaystars Agreed, it is merely a university dorm room space, thus she needs the newish lightweight oxebar kegs which she can hang from a string bag & hook when not in use, you "brew with what you can". nobody bats an eye if you have a sodastream type & size gas cylinder, they get a bit funny if it is much bigger

It really depends on the beer style we are brewing. If it has lots of hops added at any stage such as an IPA or NEIPA then we force carb after fermentation so as to not put too much pressure on the beer and risk muting the hop aroma. Most other styles then we will try to naturally carb as you suggest

This is one of the best comments we've had. Love that you are passing on the love of the hobby to her and that she is doing this at Uni! I bet shell be super popular with everyone wanting to try her beers!! If we can support in any way, let us know!

Hey! It might be worth checking out our pressure fermentation play list, across all these you should get everything you need. Any remaining questions, drop us an email at [email protected]. The basics we alway recommend are that you should try to define the difference in your fermentation, if you're using lots of hops (West Coast or NEIPA) then very low pressure, no more than a couple of PSI as higher will inhibit the flavour and aroma from the hops. Lagers can be fermented much higher with no temperature control, using appropriate yeast styles such as 34/70 or WHC Einstein. These can be fermented at around 20psi at ambient temps and the pressure will suppress off flavours and aromas from the yeast. With lagers as well you can use the pressure to naturally carbonate your beer.

kzfaq.info/sun/PL2MHWoGRPnL4VN2LFvNuZJnYIEYDM9fWK