Great share. Thank you. That happens to many surfers and I think it’s awesome to hear. It’s like dropping into a half pipe on a skateboard. Commitment is required but proper body mechanics more so.

Thanks for the feedback!

Appreciate the feedback and kind words. Great to hear!

Thanks so much for that feedback! So kind. Glad the details help!

Thanks for the feedback! Nerds unite

Well said! Thought there hasn’t been any studies confirming this, that is my theory as well for the shortboard kicking. Plenty of studies in swimming confirming the kick does both propulsion and reduction in drag, but the only research so far in paddling for kicking is that it increases velocity (in flat water). No studies on when catching a wave yet but hopefully we figure out how to set that up. Thanks for the comment!

Dude. Thanks so much. Glad you enjoyed it. Hope you learned something that is useful.

LOL! Yeah, sometimes we think about it too much. But super glad it helps a bit. Cheers!

Cheers! Thanks!

Rad to hear! Thanks for the feedback and comment

Thanks for the comment. I cover this in my Level 2 course and have several examples so definitely. Give me a bit of time since I have a few other concepts I want to get to first.

Appreciate the feedback! Stoked you got something from it.

Right on! Thanks for the feedback. This winter has been epic up here so hoping you’re getting some in SoCal!

Absolutely! And the more you look at waves.

Ah man, thank you so much for the kind words. That’s epic you liked it and hopefully find it helpful. Thanks for the comment! Cheers

Stoked you liked the vid! Coming to SD in May for group workshops: www.surfingpaddling.com/level-1-paddling-technique-group-workshops

Appreciate the feedback and comment. Thank you!

That's one technique to gain initial starting momentum, but one can also use regular paddling strokes to get that as well.

Lol! Not a teacher. Not good enough for that. But I will take the compliment with great pride. Very much appreciate the comment and glad you are enjoying the videos.

Great question. And I don’t believe there’s enough science to conclude anything, but we do know a few things. Such as, the water molecules pull up when the wave progresses into later stages of formation. So if you had a vessel that has more mass, it may be pulled upward faster than one that has less mass. However, that’s with no paddling. If we incorporate paddling, even a little, that high volume board will experience less drag and therefore get through the transition to planing sooner. Again, though, the wave will need to be in the optimal stage of development for the surfer to get to speed, get down it, and set a rail before the transition gets too tight. It’s more about different what I call “runways” for the different designs as well as how quickly the wave’s curve changes.

Yes. The two forces are gravity (which is discussed here in terms of an incline plane) and momentum of the waves direction (what you reference is the surge). Mason has to move inside, under the ledge to tap into the gravity and momentum of the lower wave. That’s the key in this situation.

Thanks for the feedback and kind words. Really appreciate it!

@@RobCaseXSWIM you're very welcome and deserve a million more. Have a kick ass day brother man

LOL! Love that guy

And it’s a good question. The curvature of the wave and the development of the wave where he is taking off gives him more time to get down the wave and rail set than if he took off at the peak. All relates to those angles. Plus, he wanted to get barreled. If he took off at the peak or in closer to the camera, he would outrun the barrel.

and 4 out of 3 people struggle with math. LOL!

Lol! Yeah, I know, wave height is always a debate. As I explained (but quite quickly so I get that you missed it), the Scripps shallow water wave formula calculates a wave’s speed based on the wave’s “true height” which by their definition is the height in feet from the trough to the crest of the wave. That’s not in surf terms of height. “True height” from the flattest part of the bottom to the top peak is what I needed to estimate to get an approximate speed. Mason bottom turns well before the actual flat bottom of the wave so you have to factor space below and above him.

Im here because Today is the day i have done my biggest wipeout, paddled insane, but just 1 sec later than i should so i became 1 with a 2m wave lip :D

Thanks for the feedback