We are glad that you enjoy our work! AUTODOC

Thanks for your feedback! We are glad that you like our work. Keep for updates. You are right, the purpose of the video is how to change the front shock absorber strut, and since the boot with the bump stop is in good condition, it was cleaned and put back.

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@@autodocuk Yes, I am trying to learn about the Active Roll Stabilizer bar in my wife's BMW E60 530i Sport. We hear a knock-knock sound only when turning left (slow or fast turns), yet never on right turns but after testing the car, our local Bosch Service Center advises us to change out the active hydraulically-controlled roll bar (!) and the roll bar links (L and R side) to fix the knocking sound - $3200 US $. As an electrical engineer, I am trying to learn about the hydraulic motor portion of the active bar. I would assume that this hydraulic motor would be symmetric whether it was twisting the bar one way or the other so if the bar itself was broken, then twisting the bar either way would produce the noise. But if the hydraulic motor is truly a symmetric design, then the source of the sound from one side of the car only must be in the associated links and other ball jointed parts on the right side of the car. I asked the technician at the shop about changing only the (low cost) bar links first to see if that would fix the noise - he shrugged and said they had the built-in BMW test suite actuate the front and rear roll bars as they watched the car rock side to side while sitting still with engine off, and the knock sound was heard coming from the left front side only. Then they raised the car up and manually manipulated various links, control arms, ball joints, etc. but could not find any loose ball joints or fasteners or worn bushings. From that, the technician and the shop's owner concluded that the super expensive active roll bar was the culprit although they both admitted to very limited experience with the "pretty rare" BMW active roll bar. So before dumping big money into the car, my plan is to buy the inexpensive Lemforder or Meyle roll bar links (@ $22 US) and swap them in myself. After watching many other YT vids on this procedure, it seems relatively easy to do and will validate, or not, my supposition regarding the active roll bar symmetry. Can AutoDoc opine or help me better understand the roll bar motor design?

For replacement, in any case, it is required to remove the shock absorber strut together with the spring. AUTODOC

that's how I did. I didn't take any control arm or rods off and I did strut replacement. I decompressed the spring after I put strut back on the car.

That's my plan!🤷🏼‍♂️

We kindly ask you please clarify or rephrase your question. Best Regards, Autodoc team.

he doesn't need to rephrase his question, anytime you compress any caliper on ANY vehicle, pressure will expand in the brake reservoir .... so yeah you have to remove the cap. especially on a e60 , the brake fluid reservoir cap has a sensor on it. you can risk the reservoir being popped like a balloon, or damaging the sensor.

Yeah, I think it's beyond me.

@@TheAutumnWind_RN4Li had to do this in the parkinglot at home, pretty new to this. Had to break the control arm and tie rod nuts and replaced them

@@TheAutumnWind_RN4Land i am 19, i have never done anything mechanical before buying my e60, if i can you can aswell! Just get the right gear, and lubricant and a hammer!

@Fredrikbjerk alright, youngster. I'll give it a try. Might check Pelican Parts for the step by step. They helped me with my blower motor and resistor. I made the mistake of taking mine to the shop to fix my MoST network. After $500 of diagnostics, they couldn't figure out what was wrong with it and suggested I spend $4800 on a new satellite module, body control module, bluetooth module, and shark fin. I took it home, ran codes again, tracked it down to the CIC, and noticed the fiber optic wire was being pinched behind the head unit. I bought an extension wire to give it some room for $20, and now everything works. The best thing about owning a BMW is that they have a community of enthusiasts who have a lot of knowledge about these cars. I'm never going to the dealer to get fleeced again.

@@TheAutumnWind_RN4L that is true, very advanced and technical like the MOST com bus, but i am happy you figured it out. The BMW community is very useful!

Unfortunately, we do not have such information, we recommend that you consult with your mechanic.

In general, the replacement will be similar, the only thing that may differ slightly is the design features of your car. AUTODOC

probably just the front axle. if you live in the rust belt.. praaaay the nut isn't screwed up

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Thanks for your feedback! Please clarify or rephrase your question.

Thank you for your valuable clarification, we understand that mistakes were made during the replacement, we are working on them and we will not make them in new videos. AUTODOC

which other video are you referring to? I'm putting Coilovers on mine and I wanna make sure I do it right.

@@farrukhdada6688 This is the correct procedure kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eKuYhqqWqZeZeH0.html

Thank you for sharing your experience, it will be very useful information for us and our viewers. AUTODOC

Yes, copper grease can react chemically with aluminum parts. Therefore, if copper grease is used on aluminum surfaces, it is necessary to monitor operating conditions and regularly check the condition of parts to avoid undesirable consequences. More precisely, what lubricant is recommended to use should be found in the technical documentation for repairing your car.

There is a Europe on this video. AUTODOC

Thanks for the clarification, we will think about what can be done with this in the new videos.