Thank you for your reply.. makes my efforts making the videos worthwhile. Viewers like you are the reason I make them.. to help others finding informative cost effective solutions. Cheers.

Power Probe would be perfect for this

@dieseldanmac works yes, but it can screw it up as well.

How do you know

Thanks for your reply. Others have commented and said you can put 12v to the connection and it'll work. I recently tried it with another vehicle and it worked.. I'll try to make another video for that.

Others have suggested using a battery to retract the motor. I've tried and it works.

Thank you for your reply. I'm glad it helped.

Thanks for your question. Yes. It does reset.

Thanks for your reply. The sensor can sometimes be reused if you can pull it out, but do get brittle from the heat. I find they're not too expensive to replace either.

@@UncleTinman thanks for the reply. I look forward on embarking on this break replacement and using your video as a step by step guide.

@@romans7842 Much appreciated on your reply... Good luck.

I was able to just use a t30 or t40 bit because I didn’t have twelve point bits and it worked perfectly

Just google it vagcom vw Audi piston rewind socket

It's one on each side

@@UncleTinman thank you

Love it. Have a great weekend.

Thanks for the comment. I have an EG race car as well.

Any rear brake work would always be deactivated... cause if its activated it would be locked and you wouldn't be able to access or remove the calipers.

@@UncleTinman Hello once again I am asking you my question because I misunderstood since I am talking about the parking button which bears the letter (P) which is right next to the driver's seat inside the car, this button must it be activated or deactivated before dismantling the caliper. thank you

@@kevinyan5183 he answered your question... it must be DEACTIVATED

Thank you for your comment...glad you enjoyed it

Thanks for your reply. I'm not sure whether it would work, but generally they're built similar, so it should work.

Thanks again.

You're welcome

Not 100% sure, but most likely

I'm pretty sure it's the same procedure.

So when you turn the car on, the rear actuator will adjust its self into the correct position?

@@kyriacosdavis7781 Yes.. that's what it did for this vehicle.

Sorry. Its been awhile since i last worked on this vehicle. I'm not sure of the tools needed.. if you watch the video I most likely named the tools and sized needed. I'll try to include a list next time.

I typed out everything I needed just case anyone else needs an exact list: Tools Needed for Rear Brake Rotor/Pad change on 2009 Audi A4 Prestige 3.2L V6 Low profile floor jack (or use a lift if you have access to one) 2x jack stands (the safest method is to use a pinch weld jack stand adapter to ensure proper fitment/ I use this one from Amazon called “Dutison Jack Pad Adapter for Jack Stand Universal Rubber Slotted Frame Rail Pinch welds protector”) 2x wheel chocks (be sure to set these BEFORE you lift the vehicle) 18mm tire iron/air wrench/impact gun (or a deep well socket for lug nuts *11/16” SAE works as well*) Magnetic LED lamp (mount in suspension to illuminate the wheel well) Small flathead screwdriver (to unclip parking brake connector plug) WD-40 or Blaster PB Spray Penetrating Catalyst (to loosen everything up and begin the soaking of the rotor) Bungee cord or tie-down (to hang the caliper/parking brake motor from the suspension) Breaker bar (bolts may be excessively rusty) Torque wrench (with a 25lb-200lb range to ensure everything is torqued to factory spec) 13mm crescent wrench (to remove the caliper slide bolts) 15mm crescent wrench (to hold the slide bolts for removal) Large flathead screwdriver (to remove the worn brake pads) 18mm crescent wrench (to remove caliper mounting bracket) Torx T-30 socket (to remove the brake rotor bolt/ and parking brake motor bolts) 3/8” ratchet (for the Torx socket) Rubber mallet (to remove the worn brake rotor) Sand paper/sanding block/file (to remove surface rust on the wheel hub and the calipers) Permatex Copper Brake Lube (to stop seizing) Brake cleaner spray (I prefer CRC Brākleen® to remove the anti-rust oil on the new rotors AA Part # 05089) New brake rotor (AA Part # YH235579P) Torx T-40 socket (to rotate the internal mechanism in the parking brake motor) Carriage clamp (to retract the caliper piston) 2x road noise reduction clips (these should be included into he brake pads box) 2x new brake pads (AA Part # GNAD1386)

You won't be able to work on the brakes is the parking brake is engaged. It'll be locked up. Secondly. You'll need to retract the piston as the new pads would be too thick compared to the old ones. So you wouldn't be able to slide the caliper back into position. Hope this helps

@@UncleTinmanIt has left my confused as to if it required to use the method shown above or a scan tool, thank you for replying!

@@user-ok9ns3co4r must use the method above or scan tool.

No calibrating needed.. it self adjusts

No. It needs to be disengaged

Yea. I guess that should work. I've never tried that method. Thanks for sharing.

@@UncleTinman yh iv got an Audi A4 2009 b8. And I just use a 12v battery to pull back the piston.

@@XL-Rider1 awesome. Thanks for sharing... hopefully this will help others.

care to explain how you did it, im new to card and have a b8 too but don’t want to use vag com

I didnt have to disconnect the battery

Check to make sure you plugged your connector back in securely.

Thanks for your reply. Most people may not work on their car often so may not want to spend the extra money for a scanner. Cheers.

No. It's not possible. Try using a torch to heat up the bolts. That always works. Cheers