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great vid. you guys put out some no-nonsense vids that are easy to follow. keep it up.

Thanks for another great vid, got the fluid changed out on my 2004 Dodge 4x4 Ram 1500 with the 5.7L Hemi and 3.92 gears in Chrysler's 9.25 - 12 bolt rear axle. My oil for sure did not look all that great, got the truck a couple weeks ago and it's about at 160K miles. The old existing RTV squished past the bolts indicated it had been changed at some point before, how many times I'm not sure, but it was way over due. Thankfully Chrysler added a pink colored magnet on the bottom inside to capture metal shavings from the gears as they wear down over many miles. Spent a good amount of time wiping black grime off of the inside, as well as all the metal shavings from the magnet itself. I chose Valvoline full synthetic 75w140 and some CRS limited slip additive in a 7oz bottle from the A-zone (factory calls for at least 4oz). There's a lot of back n forth information on many forums and sites about how other gear oils perform, when it comes down to it I believe it's how and what you do with your truck most often, as well as how many service intervals in miles you have to go before it's time to change gear oil again. The last owner did a ton of towing with my current truck, hence why I was quick to get on changing all the fluids, however I mostly drive my trucks occasionally for hauling light things around in the bed, or drive often in the winter through the snow. So go with the fancy expensive stuff if you're really using your rig hard, if not, save the money and get the conventional stuff that still has good things going for it's brand name. Also, I've read a few times now that the oil level in the rear diff needs to be slightly more below the fill hole, about 5/8", some say if it's level you can run the risk of having too much oil in there which leads to aeration in the oil/foams up and excessive gear wear can occur. I suppose it would be a good idea to test this by having it filled like you guys did in this video, take it for a good long drive at highway speeds, get off somewhere after a while so you can pull the plug and see it it's foaming inside or not. I also have never found anything that suggests using limited slip additive in the front differential, you would think you should if there's a locker in there for your 4x4 system, and not all 4x4 dodge trucks will have a limited slip/posi/SureGrip/anti-spin in the rear differential as well, only way to tell is by spinning the wheels, if both spin the same direction while the rear end is in the air and trans in neutral, you have a limited slip/closed diff, if both spin opposite from each other, then you don't have a limited slip/it's an open diff. Anywho, those are my thoughts, hope this helps!

Could you just use a pump and pump out the old fluid and pump in a new through the check hole?

To all videos' in youtube you guys are the best / accurate!! Ty.

very good and to the point thanks

Another very helpful video.

Thank you so much for ur videos

What about the gear oil in each axle? Is there a way to drain that too? Jack up each side?

what was sprayed at the end brake cleaner?

How often would you recommend changing the rear differential

I believe on the 9.25 rear diff the fluid level should be 5/8" below the fill hole....not level with it.

I got 260k miles on my 2008 ram 1500 and haven't changed axle fluids one time. I reckon it's about time I get r done

I put high temp rtv on the paper gasket, is that okay ?

What gear oil did you use brand

Yeah, did it like that. Thank you. We need those guys......cool

Can i use that paper gasket instead then the liquid gasket ? If that make sense ?

Do i need a rear gasket i got a 2001 dodge ram 1500 4x4 sport

THANK YOU

I can use only a gasket too right???

Thank you

Do you use limited slip additive on the front I have 08 ram 1500 5.7 4x4 slt ..

How do I know if mine has a lsd?

Thank you. Looks easy enough. Mine is a 2002 Ram 1500 SLT and has 75,000 mi. Probably wait till 100K to change it. I use it to tow a boat and haul yard materials. That's about it. Never had an issue with my truck except a rusted U bolt and a rusted brake line.

Other than inspecting, is there any good reason to remove the cover and not just remove the drain plug?

Why not just leave the gasket as a bead rather than smearing it down?

Thanks for this, it gave me the confidence to do it myself after seeing that it didn't look difficult. Job done!! Another thing I don't have to pay the stealership to do!! Hardest part for me is doing it from the ground, ie with a floor jack and stands and crawling in there with barely enough room to work.

Be careful with the bolt size, mine is 1/2" in my 2007 and using a 13mm will round them off if stuck tight. Otherwise great info.

I use a plastic grocery bag, or similar, to cover the internal parts of the differential (ring gear, carrier) to prevent any debris from scraping old gasket from getting on these parts.

What should I torque the bolts to? Thanks ! Great video

Is this a common service NOT performed but billed by unscrupulous shops?

You definitely don't torque the bolts down after "a few minutes". Every liquid gasket maker I've used requires at least 1hr set time before torquing.

Is liquid gasket better than buying a gasket?

What the limited slip. Additive called

Which rear end is this

How often should you change rear diff fluid ?

Hi l am from Mexico wood video's that's

Or you could suck out the diff fluid and refill. Taking off a non leakin diff cover is plain stupid. I used to work in a Chrysler dealership and that's what we did, suck out and refill. Unless your cover is leaking this is stupid and useless