"Make sure that doesn't spill, OK?" The most trust a father ever gives to a child. 😊

What I enjoyed most, is the precious moment between father and son. We need more dads to step up. 😎❤

Somebody probably already said, the magnet on the drain plug is to catch any metal particles that might be shed by the engine internals. Sometimes that magnet is in the base of the oil pan.

Thank you for the walkthrough on the oil change. We have a family of 7 and vacation with our American Eagle 2001 (spartan chassis). I’m pretty handy but I wasn’t sure about tackling this job. You showed me exactly what I needed to see… complete with a child offering unsolicited help. May grace and mercy pave the road ahead of you.

Wow, Great job. Minimal oil drops/drips if any. Very clean job. I usually put a cloth and towels in the "work area" under the motor and filter, just in case. Then again I'm Overkill at anything I do. LOL. But you're so expert you didn't need it. Don't forget to write the Date and Mileage on your new oil filter Don't forget your Fuel/water separator filter and fuel filter.

30+ years of Diesels maintenance experience on up to, 700+ vehicle fleets. Magnet is to collect ANY metal burrs in / from your engine. no. 1, should NEVER SEE ANY of significance. no. 2, IF you do, you got issues an oil change only helps reduce the amount of shavings going BACK INTO your engine. Filters, in this position ALWAYS get 'pre-filled' and ONLY hand tightened after wiping the O-ring and often replacing the seal on your drain pan plug (plastic or copper to facilitate 'forming' to your drain pan). Please, use a wrench ONLY to facilitate getting these things OFF. NOT, putting them on, past, barely tight. Don't forget to lube the chassis and drive train while down there (do this while oil COMPLETELY DRAINS) and inspect the brakes (learn to replace air chambers and adjust slack adjusters, it's REALLY EASY TO DO yet it IS DANGEROUS, to the point of life threatening IF done incorrectly) and airlines (AIR RIDE SUSPENSION?) for cracking / wear, brake chambers, any hose springs bent fittings from debris kicked up possibly. ALSO, inspect the exhaust hangers and possibly the 'flex' pipe. NOTORIUSLY RUSTED CLAMPS on these diesel flex pipe exhaust hangers. I dunno why. But, would be wise to swap out the exhaust clamps before they rust to the point of braking or requiring HEAT to remove them. I use white out to mark frame bolts TO INSURE they aren't loose i.e. transmission cross members aka brackets. Good video for just oil change though. Basics. The occasion to crawl under a vehicle is maybe < 1% of the time YOU are in the vehicle. Please, take advantage of this opportunity to get to know your rig, intimately, from down here. It IS= to the foundation of your home. P.S. WARNING: please, insure your OLD OIL FILTER GASKET CAME OFF! I failed to do this once and the mess took hours to clean up and cost me more oil. It makes quite the (U.S. Imperial gallons) mess when you DON'T Get that old O-ring off and the new filter somehow allows it to leak out. Yuck

Really don't need to tighten with a wrench, maybe 1/4 turn after you hand tighten. Good job doing this yourself. You save so much money this way.

I have a 1992 fleetwood bounder i been wanting to do oil change but I’m scared to do it now that I discovered your Chanel and watching you doing it I may do it my self

Awesome job mate.

I tend to wear latex gloves when I do my Cummins oil changes, plus a clean pair makes spinning the new filter on, a little easier I've found. I tend to change out both fuel filters (one is a moisture separator) while under the coach as well, and to fill them both, prior to installation as well. Apparently, it's important when filling, to pour clean fuel from the outside of the filter (not to the centre) so it will get filtered prior to getting to the injectors. Additionally, I've added a Fumoto valve, rather than using the bung bolt on the oil pan, so I can start & stop the flow of oil coming out, as I just keep my last jugs, and fill them up right from laying under the coach, so I can just stop the flow when one jug is full, put the cap on, then do the next jug....until all oil is out, basically eliminating the element of having to do that job later! I have also done a grease job while under there as well, usually every second oil/filter change. Of course the oil one uses is up to the individual, and I've been using a Rosella T5 which is a blend of regular oil and synthetic, as often the price isn't all that much more, but certainly isn't a must, but I pay the extra few $ for it giving me a bit more confidence on quality. It can be a messy job, but you know it's been done correctly, and you've saved the labor cost, which can be a big saving overall. I tend to always check a few different "oil change KZfaq videos" prior to doing my own, just to keep the mind fresh on not forgetting something, and possibly learning something new each time! Thanks for sharing this one!

Transfluid and the two filters are just as easy. Most motorhomes have the deep pan Allison 3000 series.

Nice job

I got a Fumoto drain valve from ebay for my Cat ...soo much easier to deal with.

Good video! Can you make one on how to replace the air filter?

The oil pan plug is magnetic so you will know if your engine is making metal. It's very important to thoroughly clean it prior to re-installing the plug. So next oil change, you will know if you are starting to have an issue.

Make sure is Shell 15W -40 Sintetic.Is good to put 1/2 gal.Motorkote.

You should wipe off any oil drips, such as that when you filled the oil up. That would enable to you identify actual leaks and keeps the engine clean. I would also recommend the use of a drop cloth to catch stray oil drips that we can see on the pavement. I would also recommend the use of an assistant to hold the oil bottles steady as you pour the used oil in. Otherwise ... great video, takes the mystery out of the process. Should note that some oil filters are accessed through the cabin of the vehicle, might have to fill the oil from there, too.

Good job

why tighten the filter so much? you will distort the gasket and cause an oil leak if you do, plus it will be hell to get off next time

Very good

Good Job

Thanks Hal, I received an estimate for an oil change. $700.00 by a Mobil company. Yuk! Will be doing my own. Thanks for the video. I used to change my oil in my cars and trucks, until I got to be an old fart.

Do you know how to replace a/c V-belt on Fleetwood Discovery Model T 1998.5 5.9

Can someone please explain to me why you have to pre-fill the oil filter before putting it on? Also, are you supposed to pre-fill oil filters on cars before you put them on? I always knew you’re supposed to hit the O-rings with oil, but I personally never pre-fill oil filter on my car.

its magnetic so if there is any metal getting into the oil pan it will hopefully get stuck on the plug

Have you come back yet

Some holy rollers will say you broke the cardinal sin that is a prefilled oil filter.... I sin as well but have made the habit of filling through the outside holes, all but eliminating the worry of foreign object contamination.

You can buy Rotella oil at Tractor Supply in 5 Gallon plastic containers, just saying, haven’t found anywhere cheeper either.

How many miles before you need another oil change?

Nice job. Next time put a tarp down. I'm sure the church would appreciate it 😌

What type and size engine ?

I didn’t see you change the fuel filter that’s also important when changing oil not to mention greasing the chassis. Good job though on the oil change.

Well I see several told you about overtighting the oil filter. Good advice, because you will for sure need that tool to get that one off in 7k miles or so. Now to the biggie. Don't let your child get under there with you. You had no visible jack stands only the leveling jacks holding that motorhome up. That is very dangerous. An oil leak can cause them to release within a second. It can crush you.

changing the oil is not the issue it's what you do with the used oil and filters

You can't put 5 gallons of oil in your engine bro.

Nice how to vid but many of today's Diesel Pusher owners would gladly leave this work to the RV shops due to the huge volume of used oil that must be dealt with. Not many DP owners if any have the storage space, time nor patience to deal with up to 44 quarts (11 gallons) of used motor oil. Automobile oil changes are quite simple and easy but big Diesel engines are a different animal especially when it comes to getting that used oil properly disposed of at an oil recycling center.