Just subscribed going to try this Im interested in doing this technique on my Orks army but how would or well do you think this technique be used on death guard or have you tried?

@@treymartinez7398 I haven't tried personally but I can imagine they'd look great!

I think they are not leather, but the tutorial is still cool :)

90 stormboyz!!!! That's one big WAAGHH!

Coming soon!

Same

Same!

Thanks! Yeah I was convinced I had ruined the Orks at least twice when filming!

Stay tuned as I'm planning on putting out a Imperial Guard video similar to this!

Thanks for the tip, I'll have to invest in some!

You probably put a matt varnish over them

Thanks! Yeah if you do a layer of the oil washes and aren't happy and want to do a second layer, give it a matt varnish otherwise you'll have to wait for the first wash to fully dry which can take some time.

@@PaintbyMinis Thanks !

Nope as long as the acrylic has fully dried (you can leave overnight if worried) you'll have no issues. White spirit isn't reactive with acrylic, unless the acrylic hasn't fully cured and even then it's just because the white spirit is a liquid and not its chemical makeup!

@@PaintbyMinis wow! Ok. That I did not know. Nice one dude

1 - I found that using "expensive" higher quality q-tips better for this sort of thing, i've found they dont unwind as easily as the store bought cheap ones, and have less stray hairs, the ones im using in this video I got off Amazon. 2 - The white spirit I use doesn't react with acrylics at all, it may be that your acrylics aren't fully dry, so any liquid would remove them. It may be worth leaving the model overnight to fully cure, acrylics can touch dry quicky but wont fully cure for 24 hours or more depending on thickness. You could also invest in aerosol based varnishes as these wont require an airbrush. Hope this helps!

I would recommend any of the blue contrast paints as a replacement

Thanks, yeah the black I used is a very cold black so can look blueish but it was just black, and yes the white was an ink :)

Thanks! Nope no need to varnish before the first oil, just be gentle with the cotton buds and if your finding your lifting paint off then maybe a varnish in future!

@@PaintbyMinis thank you kindly

I'll get a video done on the bases shortly!

Yeah I would think that would work perfectly, you could even pick a few armour panels and paint them a solid blue colour to break it up a bit!

Yeah its Liquitex Acrylic White, and I used it in the zenithal highlight step with with airbrush

@@PaintbyMinis oh, it's an acrylic paint or ink?

@@Cobrasaur Sorry it is an Ink

signed*

I can honestly say that when using oil paint, thinned with odourless thinner, over the top of acrylic that it's never reacted. When rubbing with the cotton buds use little to no pressure otherwise you can rub off the acrylic layer so be extra careful. If you are concerned, feel free to use varnishes!

Before I did the second grime wash I first sealed the whole model with a Matt Varnish, but removed it mostly with a dry qtip so more grime was left

I didn't with this model but if your concerned you can varnish

Hi, many thanks! I wouldn't personally recommend turpentine as it can leave a residue in the brushes and is really stinky!

@@PaintbyMinis Thanks! once again great video! On my way to the art store!

I use Windsor and Newton Oil paints, better quality oils are preferred as they thin down better, and yeah I use odourless white spirit to thin 😀

@@PaintbyMinis Thanks for your reply. After watching the whole video you do state what you use.

When they're fully dried they don't rub off without significant force, but if in doubt give them a varnish when finished to be sure!

If you don't like it, just clean them off with mineral spirits before the oils dry... if there is still some in the cracks, soak them in the mineral spirits and then rinse off thoroughly. Shouldn't damage your acrylics at all, rinse thoroughly so the next acrylic you apply actually sticks. It's worth noting that using oils usually looks really good, especially if you remove most of it. You could paint a model bare-bones basic single colors, no shades or highlights, apply oils, remove from all raised and flat areas, and bam, you have a decent, table-ready model. Super batch-paint speed-hack with decent results: black prime, very generous white zenithal spray, contrast paints, oil wash + removal, a few key extra highlights and details picked out with brushwork (any glow you want to do, gems, lights, eyes, text on purity seals etc) PS: every other tutorial I've seen for using oils like this video have no instruction to wait for dying, and they use make-up sponge sticks to remove it. Oils take longer to dry and can be worked with and blended the entire time they're still wet (highly encouraged actually, this is why canvas oil paintings looks so good... smooth blends baby). This is why with acrylics (when doing traditional canvas painting) one uses lots of mediums to extend the working time of the paint so that it can behave more like oils.

@@lazerhosen thanks for this comment tips. I saved it.

I've never used the AK products but might be worth giving it a go and seeing! If they are oil based it should work to some extent