Caught that too.

Yep that statement doesn't make sense.... if you have no preload and too much sag you have no idea if the spring is too stiff or too soft. May be he meant to say that if you have no preload and not enough sag then the spring is too stiff, or if you have maximum preload and still too much sag then the spring is too soft? But even that isn't necessarily true because the spring may be the correct stiffness for the rider's weight but may be under too much installed preload. I found out from another youtuber that Ohlins sell different spring clips so the installed spring length (preload) can be adjusted beyond the adjustable range.

The mistake being made is that the total exposed slider is in no way indicative of the total travel. So all we know is that there is some amount of sag. We have no idea if the measured number is 99% of the total travel, or .0001% of total travel since we do not know where the suspension bottoms or tops out. So this was a nice video, but it's incomplete as it does not address the 1/3rd to 1/4th portion. All we know is there is X millimeters of sag.

@@PrivateUsername That is quite right. however total (or better to say max theoretical) front / rear suspension travel is normally given in the bike's specifications

You forgot a minus between L1 and the 1st bracket, just a heads up to anyone like me who is scratching their head at the high number they got by multiplying there :D

@@PrivateUsername on the front this is not a problem because u can measure the distance left but the rear, how would u approach that?

​@@PrivateUsername Yeah, with this in mind, I think this video's suggestion is actually wrong and possibly dangerously inaccurate. If you set up 25%-30% sag to the length of the shock's rod showing and especially some fictitious value gained from the backend, and not it's true available stroke, then you are setting it to something more than it should be. This is also assuming this percentage is also accurate. Front shocks don't bottom out where the rod showing is completely gone. They bottom out earlier. Let's test this: Shock Rod measurement (as in the video): L1=135mm L2=87mm L3= 97mm Sag = 135 - ((87+97)/2) Sag = 43mm Desired sag= 33 to 45mm So, the sag measured was at the "bottom" of the desired sag. I'd also add some more pre-load, but someone lazy might not, saying "it's still ok". Now, let's do it with the stroke of the front shock's cylinder (Ohlins it seems full stroke is 120mm): L1=120mm L2=72mm L3=82mm (taking off 15mm to match values 135-120) Sag = 120 - ((72+82)/2) Sag = 43mm (aha, the same...!!! So, that's ok.) However....Desired sag= 30mm to 40mm In other words, had the dude said, "it's within the desired sag, I'll leave it", he's actually over the desired sag and might end up bottoming out the cylinder in a pinch, which could be fatally dangerous. 43mm is 36% of 120mm stroke. That might still be "ok", but as we can see the suggested method here isn't completely correct, as you've pointed out and I think I've proved. I think the measurements in the rear would be even more false. We'd need to take some geometric calculation into the equation too, i.e. the angle from the attachment point of the swingarm to the point of connection of the shock to where the measurements were taken. Not easy. I also have learned that the sag on the rear should be less than the front. I've learned, 25-30 on the front and 20-25% on the rear. I don't know if that is true or not, but reading around, every other advice suggests at least a 5%-10% less sag in the rear to the front.

GT6SuzukaTimeTrials I dislike because he has very veiny arms

Way to jinx it 4 years ago. This is your fault

This aged well

KZfaq has gotten politically correct, I suppose, and doesn't show the thumbs down or dislikes that are entered anymore. A definite snowflake society move.

You can be heavy and not fat by being taller and/or muscular.

Ernesto Castellanos you can be heavy If you build a lot of muscle, and that's a healthier lifestyle than you probably.

Great info Ari, I've lowered three bikes for my wife over the years. It's difficult to do and maintain handling, safe ground clearance and reasonable travel. Would love to see your input on this topic.

lol shut up simon youve clearly never worked out a day in your life. "if you cant run a 10k, youre not healthy" WELP BAD NEWS EVERYBODY HEALTHY DIETS AND A REGULAR WORKOUT ROUTINE DONT MAKE YOU HEALTHY... MEMES DO?

Lmao damn 🥲🤣

It doesn't matter where or what you ride. Adjust not only your suspension, but the angle of you clutch, front brake, shifter & rear brake lever. MC's are not cars and are infinitely adjustable.

+Ari Henning Great tip, thanks! I have a '94 Yamaha Seca II so it's pretty basic. :) Mine came in great shape from its previous owner, so that helps a lot. I think you guys ought to host a riders' event! It'd be a good excuse to visit CA again. Or maybe you already do, in which case carry on. :D

to inspire you to do better and be better future my friend no country stay third world forever and no one stay poor forever

@@GPOLICE no you :(

150cc 13BHP here XD

@@paulbissonnette3650 in the 1st and 2nd worlds, maybe?

@@TakumisBizarreRacingAdventure 3rd world is not a rank. It's a fraction.

akshay badami: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/prR1oLKivpaWdYk.html

Drax said that

LIKE A STATUE HE IS VERY GOOD !

where? i cant see him!

@@Mad8vCycles He is now in Revzilla's channel

@@dainesetube still cant see him... must be really sitting still

Thanks Ari

I recall hearing the same thing in his videos. He isn't always the clearest. It's a bit confusing definitely

40(35-45)mm is good for street on a bike with 120mm suspension travel.

Preload is supposed to be adjusted once u have the suspension installed in the bike.

0:35

Not for the L1 measurements, because the suspension has to be unloaded for that. When you put your bike on a paddock stand (on the spools) it loads the rear suspension through the swingarm.

You should have also PAID attention in English class! 😉👍

Barry Roberts: You betcha! All suspension on motorcycles are already setup from the factory for you. But only if your 80kg +/- range. So if your heavier (or for doubling) you will benefit from a sag set-up. But once your pillion gets off the bike, well then your set-up is too firm for just yourself. So its all about compromise. 55kgs makes it heavier, but it also depends on the riding style & the type of motorcycle you ride. When doubling you ride slower & more carefully. So do you really need the tighter set-up? If you rode all the time with a pillion, & went gun-ho all the time, i'd strongly recommend a sag set up. So your 85kg, which puts you in that category of the manufacturers set-up straight out of the factory. But remember, both suspension front and back must work together as one. So don't tighten the rear & leave the front. Setting sag is about setting up your weight to the suspensions optimal working space. Cheers groover ;-)

+hmushmann2 In automotive terms it's called droop.

No, because for L1 the suspension has to be unloaded. Paddock stands load the forks or the swingarm, so the suspension is still taking the bike's weight.

Usually u check the manual (technical data chapter) for the max springtravel for the front and read. Then u take 30% of that number. In this video it seems like he is taking 30% of L1 as a goal.

You want a compromise between the two. Adjust to around 70% of the target sag you should have for just yourself. This is generally how a bike with passanger pegs is set up from the factory, for a weight of around 100kg. It's a compromise between a single rider and with a passanger. To get optimal sag for both single and double riders you would basically need two sets of springs and shock valving to swap out for each.