You're welcome - thank you for watching. One thing to keep in mind is that for most of the 20th century the only primer used was lacquer primer. They put out tons of wonderful paint jobs that are still looking great today. All those great paint jobs at Autorama were all lacquer primer. All automotive grade primers work great - you just have to find the one that works best for you. Start with lacquer primer and go from there :)

Have fun with it - that's the point. Body work is something you have to learn by doing. Each time you do a process you get better. Glad you like the videos. Take care.

Those Matco guns were sort of a rip off. Can't get parts for mine either.

@@LakesideAutobody I probably bought it like 12 years ago to do one job and it's sat in my house/basement since then. I didn't even use it to paint the stuff! lol

If you are talking about a midcoat or intercoat, it is used to "lock down" or seal art work, pearl, metallic flakes, and other custom stuff between layers. It's used more in a custom paint shop to protect what they have already done. It's a midcoat clear that dries fast and does not stay tacky so if you mess up its easier to fix. Once you get everything how you like it, you apply the regular clear to finish the job. It's like saving your paper on microsoft word as you go along so you don't have to type the whole thing again if something bad happens. Hopefully someone else comments on this topic that can add to it or correct me if I've got some misinformation.

That's all I do now - works fine with all colors and metallic paint. Remember back in the old days, I think all they had was red lacquer primer and there were plenty of great paint jobs. My dad worked at a place that did custom vans and corvettes - they used lacquer primer and lacquer paint no booth and the work was incredible - absolutely stunning mermaid scenes, mountain scenes, etc on the sides of vans. Just using lacquer primer. As for the tip - I used a Devilbiss copy for years on everything (primer, paint, feather fill, etc) - I think the tip was probably 1.7 -1.8

You're welcome.

The grandfather of paint guns!

It's probably one of the greatest guns ever built along with the Binks #7. Congratulations. It's actually the only gun you'll ever need or want if you become attached to it 😊 You can change out the needle and tip too if you prefer. Rebuild kits are available which is nice :)

@@LakesideAutobody I always appreciate your wisdom and experience, Jerry!! thank,s again, Patrick.P BE WELL MY FRIEND!!

@@patrickpeterman8736 Any time Patrick - you take care too :)

You're welcome - have a good weekend :)

Thanks for the tips. I never used anything bigger than 1.8. I know when I used to use feather fill I needed something bigger. Thanks again :)

Moparnut62 , I use the Airgunza 3.0 as well to spray Clausen All-U-Need polyester primer. That puppy puts out the primer! Great gun!

@@Okie-Tom I'm going to look into getting one of those. Saw them at Eastwood for $133.

Lakeside Autobody , Jerry, when you use an Airgunza with the 3.0 tip be prepared to move fast. I was having trouble spraying my Clausen polyester primer with my 2.0 tipped gun. The 3.0 was night and day difference! And sprayed it smooth too! Get one, you will love it for polyester primer! Tom

Great question. Here's some things that will help. 1) Make sure the gun is clean 2) The bigger the fluid tip the better i.e. 1.8mm and up. 3) you have to thin or reduce primer surfacer - usually the can doesn't mention that - don't know way. Here's a video on it (old): kzfaq.info/get/bejne/sK-qdcxjrpOyYYk.html Hope that helps you out - keep asking questions :)

Yes - without a problem. The reason for the smaller fluid tip is that supposedly it atomizes the paint better to evenly distribute metallic paint and control orange peel etc. but I have both and can't really say one sprays color better. I always give metallic paint a drop coat any way like this video - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/r61zo7BnqN3MkmQ.html that gun has a 1.4mm tip but I get the same results with 1.8mm so no worries :)

You'll want to use a fluid tip that is 1.8 or larger. Sorry about the grey on gray - try to look at the shine as the primer goes on.

I don't mind the Astro products. They've actually been around for long time.

My honest thoughts are this: If you're just going to be doing some body work on the side or at home and you already have a compressor you'll be absolutely fine with a good conventional spray gun. The Astro that I use in this video is a great gun and can be used with paint or primer. Harbor Freight has a few nice guns for very little $. You can't go wrong with the Harbor Freight Spectrum Professional Spray Gun or Black Widow. That's just my thoughts though so... I don't have any experience with the turbine sprayers. I think the big advantage is low pressure yet still moving a good amount of paint for less over spray and paint loss. Let me know what you're thinking :)

I will, thanks for taking the time to answer my question

Sure - that would be a good video for sure.

They hate it because they use it wrong. Folks try to hide imperfections in filler work, and general body work with tons of primer surfacer. If you want to do that, use feather fill. It's not meant to bury scratches and crooked body work. Also, you can't leave it outside in the rain for 6 months as it is not paint. Remember.... before 2k primers which became popular in the 90's there was just lacquer primer and polyester primer (spray on filler) "feather fill" That being said, if you do your body work correctly, feather edge your paint correctly, and "play by the rules", you'll be just fine. There were millions of beautiful paint jobs in the 20th century and all used lacquer primer. I have done all the videos on this channel with 2 gallons of primer - about 165 videos because you can throw the unused portion of the lacquer primer back in the can. It keep getting thinner and thinner as you go but you just use less thinner the next time you mix primer. It dries super fast, blocks easier than any 2k primer, builds fast, is not as bad for you as 2k, you don't have to throw out the unused portion, you can keep it in a "primer" gun as it won't harden on you and it's cheap to boot. Hope that helps - Jerry

@@LakesideAutobody Thanks for the reply Jerry I gathered that would be the reason ..keep up the good work im watching all your videos thanks again

@@brokeunemployed5208 Thanks for the support and watching. All primers are great if used correctly 1k, 2k, etc. It's just what works best for your budget and the job you are doing I guess. Have a great weekend :)

I used one gun for years and I worked in a body shop. It was a Devilbiss JGA clone. I never looked at the tip size back then but I kept it clean and it sprayed everything from feather fill to clear coat. I hear the Harbor Freight Black Widow is a good gun along with the Harbor Freight Spectrum guns. All guns are made in China, Taiwan, etc so I think the quality would be similar. Just find one in your price range with a good sized fluid tip.

Without a doubt Air Gunsa by Iwata. I would not get the HVLP versions, which are readily available, but the High Transfer Efficiency versions which are also readily available. You'll need a 1.3 for base and clear and a 1.7 or 1.8 for normal 2K primer. For polyester primers (Featherfill) you'll need 2.0 or slightly bigger. These extra needle and nozzle kits are relatively inexpensive from Air Gunsa which is another reason this is the gun of choice.

You're very welcome

I don't have a face book (married) :) Anyway I live in St. Helen, MI. I'm just doing KZfaq videos right now but maybe in the future to make more videos out of the job. Send me a few pics - my email is under the ABOUT tab. Jerry

Yes good old lacquer primer. You're right about hardening in the cup - you can leave lacquer in the gun all day. I do spray 2K stuff all the time with siphon guns no problem. I also have gravity fed guns too but I like to keep the old guys around they spray just as good sometime even have an advantage or two.

You are right that is the grandfather of paint guns. At one time they ruled.

I've been using mine since 1976. I would gladly compare my work with anything shot with a modern top feeder. Of course I've had some practice.

@@leesanders6490 I believe it! Good to hear :)