I'm glad it helped. There is nothing in the service manual describing this, and I can't guarantee it is correct since I'm the second owner. Mine continues to work fine and I've had very little done to it since this video was published years ago.

@@spelunkerd UPDATE- I just watched another video where the guy stated that he actually talked to a Briggs rep and they said the lean jet (smaller number) goes on the right. Frankly, I dont see where it would make a difference. Apparently B&S installed a lean jet for emissions sake. So one cylinder will always run lean, or you could say one cylinder will always run richer, with everything else being equal. Cheers

Good points, I wondered about the possibility of further orifices deeper in the housing. I flushed it out well, and I did flush all the orifices I could find, including under the four hole gasket, but I'm not at all surprised there are further channels deeper in the housing. From what I hear you saying, there is nothing more to disassemble, just carefully look for more orifices and clean them all as best as possible. Anything more to add?

@@spelunkerd nope, that's really all i was saying. so to be clear, in the plastic housing theres 2 jets (Main Jets) for the atomizer stems and the other 2 holes next to the stems in the Carb housing contain 2 more jets (Idler Jets) to be cleared. Total of 4 brass jets. Thanks for the video Good luck with your projects everyone.

Tried the easy fixes and lo and behold they have seemed to work. Plugs were very fouled so I cleaned them. Replaced the fuel filter (didn't seem to be dirty), and checked the fuel pump flow. Cleaned the air cleaner. The mower still surged and ran rough with smoke coming from exhaust. Still hoping to avoid a carb teardown I decided to try some seafoam in the gas tank. After running about 15 seconds the engine smoothed out and ran like new. I doubt the seafoam had enough time to work its way to the carb so I'm guessing there was some unburned fuel remaining in the cylinders from it running rich and once that burned out the surging and roughness cleared up. I have no idea what caused the initial rich mixture and fouled plugs. I'm just glad I didn't have to tear the carb apart. I did buy some micro bits, etc so ill have them on hand if it ever comes to that.

I thought I understood the ethanol debate, but on discovering that alcohols are an integral part of fuel stabilizer I realized the situation is much more complex. Here on the west coast I routinely use midgrade fuel for farm equipment, which does not have ethanol. However when I store my vehicles over winter I put in, yup, fuel stabilizer! After the last use in the fall I try to shut off fuel to the carb while engine is running, to let the vehicle die of fuel starvation so the carb is empty during the winter. Mostly I store tanks full to prevent condensation of water inside the tank and to reduce progression of internal rust. Even so, we can all expect to have to clean carbs intermittently. Thanks for stopping by!

Good point!

@@spelunkerd yes, thank you. and I might add that Briggs & Stratton has been sold or outsourced, and you can find a lot of the parts on Amazon or ebay or others. Apparently giving my model number to the store was not adequate information. I've been to Briggs & Stratton website and they say sold out. But you can get Briggs & Stratton parts from different websites. Very confusing

Hi Terry! For another video that does the same kind of deep dive, Chickanick here on KZfaq did one that adds some more detail. She talks about how the seal kits from Amazon are often missing the correct tiny O rings that hold the jets in place. She said that you don't need to remove or replace those O rings if the jets don't fall out. I left those in .

@@spelunkerdThanks Dave for the added info! I did see her video and it was informative too. It turns out that a Briggs and Stratton rebuild kit from Amazon is $95 and some change. Unbelievable when it’s mostly gaskets. She decided to buy the complete carburetor from Amazon for $40 whereas the one from John Deere is $240. I hope the cheap carburetor will work. Have a great evening.

yeah, in the end a very gratifying experience. Thanks, Terry.

Thanks, man! I'm close behind, and like you, learning every day, ha ha.

Thank you!

Thank you, I completely agree.

Excellent point, David! Remarks like this one are why I scroll through the comments section on every video I see.

Thanks! Gotta love your sailboat in the thumbnail image, I did a few sailing repair videos, too.

@@spelunkerd Thanks. I'll look on your channel. It's a 1964 Allied Seawind.

I did not, but if you have time to find a seal kit for the carb it would be wise to replace seals.

Thanks for watching!

Hmm. Consider bad fuel, water in fuel tank, bad fuel filter, failing fuel pump, air leak in fuel delivery tubing, vacuum leak, or rarely a sticking backfire solenoid. Not sure. When you find the cause, please stop back and let us know what you found.

This is a long shot, but easy to check. There is a small vent hole in the gas cap. If it gets plugged by dirt or debris, the engine will stall out as though it's out fuel. 10-20 secs. would seem pretty quick if that was the problem, but worth a try.

Yes, I wouldn't discount the likelihood that oil on the outside of the engine was smoking, making the exhaust look worse than it was. In any case, it is so gratifying to see blue exhaust clear up with better air/fuel balance. Thanks again for watching, feedback makes the effort to create these videos worthwhile.

I give feedback to show i appreciate the person making the video, that's why i made the account years ago, so i could comment, and to show my ignorance and poor spelling lol :-D. Some of your videos are beond me, so i can't comment, but ill still tick the like symbol.

The great thing about discussion threads is the feedback from others who did similar repairs. Thanks for making this worth reading.

The solenoid is a safety feature to cut the engine off faster in case it runs on even after cutting the ignition. So you are correct, it really isn't needed. But you should keep in mind the safety feature is disabled. I think the solenoid is wired to the seat switch and the blade engage switch. So if you get off the seat with the engine running and the blades engaged, the ignition gets cut off and the fuel supply gets cut off right where it's entering the carb. The idea being, if you fall off the mower or tip it over, the engine will cut out. Now, sometimes cutting off the ignition won't always cut off the engine, bad fuel or engines in bad shape, especially a hot engine (remember it's air cooled and those cooling vanes often get clogged up with leaves and grass clippings making it run hot) the gas could continue to ignite and keep the engine running for a few seconds or even longer. Cutting off the fuel, from within the carb, would cut off fuel to the engine right away and make sure the engine definitely dies immediately. Something to keep in mind. If your engine runs on after turning off the ignition the normal way with the key, and you've disabled that safety feature, you might want to consider taking action, either fix the run on or fix the safety feature of the fuel solenoid. Cleaning all the leaves and grass clippings from the engine cooling vanes, so the engine runs cooler would be my first step.

Excellent Reply. Solenoid fuel cutoff when motor is switched off is a good thing. If it fails to cut off, i do not believe it is the source of flooding. More likely the float valve leaking or really plugged airfilter.

You make a good point. It's been so long, I don't remember anything that is not in the video. You may be able to find an OEM repair manual online. As you say, the order and positioning of those gaskets is critical, with many flaps acting as one way valves.

Thank you, Nick. Music is so subjective I hesitate before I push my taste on others, as I wonder how many would disagree. Unfortunately the painstaking nature of a carb clean video leads to long periods of wandering attention.