We are glad we could help you even if you didn't need any parts for this repair. Our goal is to not only offer the best parts ordering website on the internet but to also offer as much repair help as we can to the DIY community. Thanks for watching, -Mark

The metal disc is part of the diaphragm. It is the part that makes contact with the metering lever. The metal disc should face down or toward the carburetor body. You are correct about the gasket. I'll admit it... I made a mistake. The diaphragm should be above the gasket. The proper reassembly order is, from carb body working out, gasket, diaphragm, cap. Sorry for the confusion. -Mark

One thing I would additionally recommend is that you protect yourself from contact with the carb cleaner and, in fact, all similar chemical. They will have a cumulative negative impact on all bodily systems especially the kidneys, liver and nervous system. Moreover, they could possibly be carcinogenic and, like many carcinogens, the resulting cancer might not appear until decades later.

I have cleaned a lot of these with no results until I started removing the screen and cleaning under it. Makes all the difference in the world. Small engine mechanic tipped me off on this. Bend a pin and grab the side of the screen. Comes out easy if your lucky and no damage.

I am glad to see you mentioning the spring that loves to go flying. First time I took apart a dead carb to see what makes it tick that piece almost hit me in the face and I never found it in the garage again

As an added tip. . .I've found that I can use a thin sewing needle to physically go into the orifices and clean out any gunk that's been built up. . mainly from ethanol treated gasoline (which is a bad idea to use in carburetors). Quite often carb cleaner simply won't clean out these orifices totally. I spent a LOT of time going through the pangs of trying to get string trimmers and later, chain saws , running until I was schooled on the problems with ethanol additives. It's a major hassle. If you can get 100% gasoline, it's highly recommended that you use it in your 2 and 4 cycle engines. There's a class action lawsuit involving small engine builders against this gas. Unfortunately, it's often the only thing available. Nice video. Well stated.

@LogosWins Thanks! I'm glad we where able to help you out. Good to hear that your trimmer is running again. -Mark

@slonegan That is great to hear! Glad we where able to help! -Mark

So helpful, thought with a Roybi trimmer for a weekend. Cleaning worked great!

thanks for the video Mark. Its very instructive to people like myself. It helps people like me that needs a little instruction on the simple repairs that drive me crazy every spring. Also I was told to use non-ethanol fuel at the local co-op to keep debri down in the carbs on my small engines.

Tremendous resource. Detailed, clear, accurate and complete. Very professional. Thank you.

thanks for taking the time to help us folk who havent stripped a carb before,my lawn is back to normal, from down here in west wales uk

Great video...My TroyBilt weed wacker wouldn't start so I followed your instructions and cleaned the carburetor. Voila, it started right up. So now that I felt confident, I pulled out my Craftsman blower that quit running last summer. When I removed the carburetor I noticed the fuel lines were cracked. I cleaned the carburetor, replaced the fuel lines and it wouldn't start. The cylinder sleeve was loose so I tightened it up and she fired right up. Thanks eReplacementParts,

Outstanding video! Thanks for the effort. It is very helpful!

Great video, thanks for sharing it. I've got a 3 year old trimmer that purred along last year and won't start this season... and your videos should help me get it running again.

A very well presented video but, I have went through this cleaning procedure and sometimes it just doesn't work. I even tried soaking the carb in carburetor cleaner for days. Didn't work. What finally did was taking a tip from a long time small engine mechanic Basically, after removing all rubber parts, you boil the carburetor in a strong solution of Tide detergent. Apparently, varnish can be so tough and plentiful that a little spraying or even soaking in carb cleaner just won't do any good. I even tried going through the portals with guitar wire as was suggested by one mechanic. When I got through boiling one carb that I was having problems with, after trying everything in this video and more, I ended up with a skim of something on top of the water which I took to be more varnish. Once put back on the engine, it ran like a top.

Thanks for posting this! I happen to have a Ryobi weed trimmer as well, so this video works perfectly for me.

Really a good video. Thanks for your effort in making it to help out those of us who can use all the help we can get.

thanks so much. I really appreciate the detail!!

Thanks this helped me fix a badly running chainsaw (clogged spark arrester screen) and a non starting strimmer. (new spark plug) clear and methodical instructions. Nice.

Thank you! Had a Stihl FS 55R that wasn't working... came across this... demystified the process for me, and 30 minutes later it's running like new. Thanks again!

@MrFerrariman1 Glad you found our video helpful! -Mark

Excellant tutorial ! Thank you Mark, I look forward to more videos.

Great presentation. Straightforward and to the point. No B.S. - I like it that way.

Merci. Très bien expliqué et belle vidéo.

All your videos are very well done. Thank you.

Great vid thanks, I need to get 2 of these Ryobi carbs done this afternoon.

Great video - thanks for the information. Question: In section 130-150 of the video the removal layering of the diaphragm gasket would appear to be carb->gasket->diaphragm->cover. In section 733-745 of the video you show the reassembly as carb->diaphragm->gasket->cover. Does the order matter?

Excellent video ! Thanks for taking the time to make it.

Great video, thanks! This will be my rainy day project.

AWESOME!!!!! Thank you so much for this video! I just cleaned my first 2 stroke carburetor ....... SUCCESSFULLY!!!! :)

Excellent video and instructions,very clear and easy way to get it right,and if one cannot follow this simple instructions,perhaps shouldn't touch the carb.

Thanks for the video. Just helped me clean the Carb on my Craftsman line trimmer.

I am the principal of Sri neelakanteswara ITi. These all videos are very very useful to our trainees

I love your videos. PLEASE keep them coming. May I ask why the adjusting screws (Hi and Low) were not also cleaned? A newbie.

Beautiful, nice job., very professional. Thanks

Thanks Mark. What a great videos that you have made.

Thanks for taking the time for sharing the video. I did think it was intuitive and enjoyed watching.

Hey mark I work at a lawn mower parts store and I came to realize that for the rhino carburetors the Zama carburetor kits with part number Gnd-12 or Gnd-18 have worked for my customers. Try it!

Great video , thank you for sharing

Both my weedeater and blower died on the same day. I'm thinking it might have been some bad gas/oil, but I switched to the trufuel to try it and it tries to fire a lot easier, but now is time to clean the carbs. Thanks for taking the time to make this video. Wish me luck! lol, damn it.

Mark, great job on the rebuild video!

Great instructional!! Wish everyone did how tos like this

Thanks for this. I've got a Sears bushwacker with stalling problems. I bet this will fix it.

Excellent video...Thanks Mark...take care.

@pariskdx200 No, not a problem. You'll just want to let the carburetor completely dry before reassembling it. Great questions, and thanks for watching!

This was so helpful thank you so much. I have a Ryobi SS26 and the carburetor is very similar to what you show.

Thanks brah. I got a Homelite 25cc trimmer that has exactly that carb on it & it only runs with the choke full on. Throttle has no effect & half choke or choke off stalls it. I disassembled the carb as much as in the video except I left the needle in & it looked fairly clean so I didn't clean it. I did take out that fine screen though (was easy to do) & it had some dirt in it. Not enough to plug it though.

Nice video, It was fairly accurate except for the diaphragm gasket. You will also need to break the plastic anti tamper piece off the Hi and lo mixture screws and clean them. Just take note on how far they were turned out.

Good video, thanks for sharing.

Excellent video. Thank you so much (I feel bad that cleaning it was enough and that I didn't have to order any parts from you...although I will keep you guys in mind the next time I need parts).

Thank you! Great instructional video.

No problem at all. Thanks for clarifying. And mostly, thanks for the video! By now I have actually found documentation on my Zama carb. Re-assembly is no longer an issue. Turns out my problem was hi/lo adjustment screws. So now it's clean and working great!

Does anyone notice how red his knuckle joints are? Be cautious if you want to keep healthy lungs, spray with adequate ventilation and outdoors preferably, try to contain drain off fluids if possible, if you want to keep your hands, wear chemical resistant gloves, and lastly invest the meager 1.88 for a pair of safety glasses to protect one of the two most vital assets you possess before using such chemicals as Acetone, Xylene. Toluene, Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK), Ethyl Benzene, 2-Butoxyethanol, and propane. Most of these 'ingredients' are present in carb cleaner. Take a moment to read and understand any labels. Cheers!

That carb is a ZAMA C1U-H60D and a full rebuild kit is a ZAMA RB-29, which is commonly available from many online sources. Even the sponsor, E-Replacement Parts, sells them!

I found that using a 12 gauge plain (not wound) guitar string will work cleaning the tiny holes..any gummy stuff in there away.

Thank you SO much. someone gave me a multi tool engine and i watched your videos closley practicing on the engine the guy gave me. i've stripped it,cleaned it and now waiting for the new primer bulb to arrive so I can start the engine. Your videos are straitforward ,clear and helpful. I thank you for that,now i know a lot about 2 strokes in just few days. Happy :)

Thanks for sharing - I'm now thinking it's worth a noob like attempting before buying a new one. Cheers

Thank you for the video. You instructions were clean and the video was good.

Thanks for the info.... Great Video....

Ryobi generally use carbon copies of Zama carbs, in this instance I believe a set of diaphragms and gaskets are available for this carb under Zama part no. GND-18

This helped me greatly thanks

Thank you so much for the good videos 😎

.Excellent instructive video

Does it matter if you flip flop the placement of the diaphragm? I noticed the butterfly metal of the thingy is facing you when you disassembled it but away from you when you put it back..

Great video thanks!

Very useful. Fixed the problem

e replament keep up the good work your are doing a good job

Thanks for ur help

@AmoureuseTouti You're very welcome, AmoureuseTouti. To be able to answer your question about your pressure washer more specifically, we'd have know your machine's model number to find out if pump assemblies for that model are currently available from the manufacturer. Feel free to post your washer's model number here or head over to eReplacementParts*com and use the model number search. The model number search will take you to your washer's parts page and breakdown schematic.

You are awesome thanks very much

Great video. Thank you !!!!

Thanks! very helpful video

This guy is a genius...thanks

Great video and well explained but failed to show checking and clean needle and arm level for correct fuel intake

@MrFerrariman1 That is great! Glad we could help! Thanks for watching. -Mark

It sounds to me like one of the gaskets or the reed valves may have been reassembled upside down. This will block the carb passages, basically stopping fuel flow through the carb. I hope this helps, -Mark

Hi Mark, awesome video I followed the steps and actually ended rebuilding my carburetor. So I finally got to turn on, but it will stay on only with the choke engaged. When I give it gas, the choke disengages and engine will accelerate erratically and then shuts off. Any thoughts

Good job. Good video.

@Mr70Cenzo Great suggestion. I have a box on my bench but it seems that in the heat of the repair I never remember to put them on! Thanks for watching, -Mark

Thanks brother for this video

Hello I watched your video and it was very interesting. Can the same cleaning method be used to clean a chainsaw carburetor? I am wondering because I have a chainsaw that won't start I had already replaced the fuel lines.

Thank you for the video showing how to service a small carburetor, the problem I have with mine is when I start it and let it warm up as soon as I try to speed up it just splutters and stops, I have sprayed carb cleaner in it but still no good, any help would be brilliant.

@worldskater31 Thanks! -Mark

Wonderful video, but there is no mention of disassembling or cleaning the mixture adjustment screws.

thank you

well done

I noticed that the high and low needles weren't removed for this cleaning. Isn't that required for a thorough cleaning? I believe that carb cleaner contains MEK which is highly carcinogenic, rapidly absorbed through the skin and is associated with liver cancer (hepatocellular carcinoma) with long term or repeated exposure.

Beautifully presented. Thank you. I wonder if it's possible to simply use the cleaner straight in the the fuel lines, without pulling it apart?

Hi Mark I have McCullough leaf blower run still get hot and about 5 minutes that can be the carburetor? 120 compression got spark. I notice the blower get hot and cut off the gas so that is possible to have weak carburetor? already clean it...

Thanks for sharing all the trick and technique. Is there a place to order a pump assembly for Troy Bilt 2200 PSI pressure washer? My output pipe is cracked so the water is leaking out like crazy, as the result I probably get about 50% pressure on the wand. Thanks. Tom

you should correct the video. On the side with the plate the gasket should be placed first on the carb body then the diaphragm.

I have been running 100low lead aviation gas in my 2 strokes for years.. Never a problem if carbs are clean to start w/ and proper maint is maintained.

Maximum Power Equipment had several kits in stock

Excellent video, and was vey helpful in repairing the carburettor on my line trimmer! However, I must make a few comments. Always wear safety glasses when using compressed air, aerosol cans, or when disassembling springs. A spring may indeed "fly across the shop" and disappear, but it may also fly up and hit you in the eye. Compressed air (even at low pressure) can relocated dirt and debris into your eye with serious consequences. A good pair of safety glasses will cost you $5.00 so it is money well spent. Cheap disposable gloves are also a good idea when using cleaners or solvents! Otherwise, thanks for the tips.

Thanks so much...!!!

I'll be doing this over the weekend! My Ryobi CS30 will only run after being primed... as soon as I give it throttle, it will bog down and run slower and slower then die. I'm guessing that carb is gunked up.

At 7:29 ... It's my understanding it should be gasket first then diaphragm.

Good work. You present the information well. You don't speak to fast and you sound good. Do you have any e-books available going into detail about the how and why of your trade?

just randomly stumbled on this video. I bet you can put any of the walbro carburators for go peds on there. all those engines are 23-29cc. Looks like the same bolt pattern, Or even use their rebuild kits if the one in this video is a Walbro. It sure looks like one.