If she can't clean then you live in a dirty house.

​@MsUltrafox that is the Dad joke of the day. You have won the internet

I prefer cleaning videos that are not sponsored by a specific brand. Most of my 22LR rifles such as Rossi RS22, S&W AR15-22, Winchester Wildcat get non-chlorinated brake cleaner for cleaning the bore or Mobil 1 mixture. They and other firearm get cotton T-shirt rag patches with 50% 0W20 and 50% ATF fluid from Mobil 1. Some people use shoestring for pull while others may put a patch on weed trimmer line. I do have long fiberglass rods for 22LR, AR, and shotgun. I do have am Otis 22/223 pull cord that I may start using for cleaning my Tikka T1X. Some precision rifle makers do have a recommend break-in cleaning schedule.

Ah, Golden Bullets and Thunderbolts. Have a .22 semi-auto pistol and rifle. A number of years ago, during the worst of the ammo shortage, it was all I had to shoot. Think I spent more on cleaning supplies then than I did on ammo.

Glad to help!

I had a flash-back! I remembered when I was in basic training. We use strip the M-14 and ourselves and wash the M-14 and ourselves in the shower! Also remember the D.I.s screaming at us the next formation, how filthy our firearms were; must have completed (or tried to) a zillion push-ups. According to the D.I.s there was never a "clean rifle."

Thanks for this comment. I am in the same camp as far as cleaning my rifles, including my rimfires. I think the difference is that these match rifles have hand lapped barrels that are mirror smooth, so there should not be any pits or surface imperfections to "fill". As Erik Cortina says, "I can manage clean, I can't manage dirty." And he takes his bores down to bare metal every time he shoots. I do agree to only shoot lead out of rifles where you want the best accuracy, otherwise you are also working to clear copper out of the bore.

Where pizza? No RoaR?

@@PatRMG PizzA!! 🍕

@@DinoNucci I will RoaR while I eat said Pizza because I am yet to decode the associated algorithm.

@@PatRMG #HerO

My dad was a gunsmith, and saw the same thing. Most malfunctioning firearms brought in just needed a good cleaning and a bit of lube. The most impressive was a bolt action that wouldn't fire in the cold. The owner said he could watch the striker slowly fall. The striker and spring were gummed up with what looked like honey. Turned out his cleaning procedure for many years was to just hose everything down with WD-40.

Yup, in addition to my gunsmith shop, I was a peace officer for years, and an armourer for the PD. I was a Sgt, running a shift in a tough part of town. I'd do "surprise" weapons inspection. Found one officer's S&W Mod13 completely locked up! 100% inoperable. He was sent home, to report to the Division Commander in the morning. He was suspended for two weeks. And I was assigned to repair his weapon. It had never been cleaned nor lubricated in two years. It was rusted inside and out. Eventually, it was restored and reblued. And you know, that officer blamed me for him being suspended! I told him that he was lucky that he was not in a unit with me when I was in the army. I would have PT'd him everyday for a month! His lack of keeping his weapon in proper order endangered not only himself, but the lives of his fellow officers, and most importantly, our citizens!

@@anangryranger Treating a firearm like that should be a crime. I sold a Smith 29 to a friend to carry for bear protection once. He was on a canoe trip and went for an unexpected swim. When he got home he threw the wet pistol in leather holster in the cupboard till the following summer. At which point he asked me if there was anything I could do. Nope. You destroyed it.

@@philschaefer4651 Oh, I agree. It's inexcusable. It never ceases to amaze me how some people are so utterly stupid in how they treat weapons. Makes ya wanna get out a horsewhip!😬

The "target" guns usually have a lot more rounds run through them. They tend to build up more gunk than the match guns.

My match guns all shoot good when I get them. But after the barrel is broken in, they all shoot great. There's a sweet spot I get with them for about 50 -100 shots. After that, the barrel must be wiped out.

I get my blood tested every year. Believe it or not, I have very low or even no lead in my system. I handle about 100,000 rounds of lead a year. You would think it would be much higher. I'm not saying "do what I do", but I find it odd. It may catch up with me one day, though.

@@22plinksterThat is wonderful and amazing! I was guessing you were in the 10’s of thousands of rounds/year...wow! I love your channel and admire those God given skills. 👊😁

I just use CLR. But only on stainless or titanium, and it will stain stainless. Bought me one of those M&M candy tubes with the flip-up lid, fits the baffles perfectly. Let it sit overnight, and you can almost just rinse them off in the sink.

Suppressor cleaning depends on suppressor material. Aluminum ,steel, titanium. CLR in a green bottle, Purple power clean, super clean are all common, check your metal first. I do Sonicator with hot water and soap works fine for me to start. ( pros would put cleaner in bag, add baffles) n fill Sonicator with water so no mess. then I do my typical nylon brush and bore cleaner. Then I put bearing grease over baffles or gun oil, both In a thin layer. I find this keeps my suppressor easy to clean, and easy to take apart. I have had people scream at me for using bearing grease... it's just a way to keep baffles from being stuck after shooting. It's dirty with or with gun oil. I've just experimented to see what makes cleaning next time better.

That may actual clean the barrel. I clean barrels most often with just Mobil 1 (50% 0w20 motor oil and 50% ATF). I also use this as a lubricant. I sometimes clean just the bore with non-chlorinated brake cleaner. Good ammo comes with lead bullets that have a lubricant on them. The copper wash/platting is used on some bullets in place of a wet or waxy lubricant. Think of the copper as a dry lubricant. The copper wash is very thin and nothing like copper jacketing.

Your barrel isnt a moving part. It doesn't need lubrication

@@Beardman56 Oil does protect against rust, so it's usually a good idea to oil a barrel if you're not going to shoot the gun for a while. You need to remove the oil out of the barrel before shooting though. If you're shooting your gun every couple of weeks, it doesn't need a protective layer of oil.

Right on!

Tempering the barrel for your desired ammo is a good way to go. Then you can let it go for it bit.

Ballistol, good stuff

I use weed whip line. You cut a piece longer than the barrel, usually about 8-10". Melt a bulb on one end, you can do it on a stove with a skillet. I use an empty .22 case clamped in a vise and a propane torch to heat up the case and push the line into it to make the bulb. Make sure you wait for it to cool to form the bulb, then heat it back up while pulling on the line to get it to release. Make sure you sand the bulb down enough for it to fit thru the bore with a patch attached. Cut a point on the other end so you can push a patch onto it. Push a patch on and feed it thru the bore. Use your favorite cleaner on the patch and finish pulling it thru. Repeat as needed.