I like your technique Richard. The way you stretch the metal foil is great. I too would watch the 1hr video. I see you are like me with your thumb. CMC is no laughing matter at all. I'm seeing an orthopedic surgeon tomorrow for the same at my 3rd finger knuckle at the hand. Cheers, Rhys

Richard, I guarantee anyone who has watched Parts 1& 2 of this would love to see the 1-1/2 hour video you alluded to. Nice work!

Haven't watched the rest yet, but right off the bat I want to say that I actually would like to see the long video of that complex piece. I'm planning to foil the Tamiya 1/32 Mustang and any examples will be useful. Thanks again for the videos!

Terrific. I have to admit it was a little thrilling as I found myself (especially when you had that large crease appear at the front left quarter with the difficult compund curve ) thinking "oh no, how you going to sort that out, don't b***er it up now?" The Mk1 finger nail comes in dead handy and costs nowt. Well, in the end my takeaway is 'don't rush, be confident with your technique and materials, work firmly but gently and it will work out'. If it doesn't, dont worry, start again and above all, have faith. I really enjoyed that Richard. Many thanks for the masterclass.

Great video mate. Not going to hurt to to release that one and a half hour video on the other piece. you never know who you're watching cheers Graham

I’m having a go at a 1/72 scale spit but covering it with gold and silver leaf. Its a lot more fragile to handle but the effect once finished is the same as what you are achieving. I would not want to try the alu foil on anything smaller than 1/48 scale. Thanks for sharing this technique, parts 1 & 2 are great tutorials

Used to use 'bare metal foil' from my local hobby shop for metal canopy frames, but found this approach much more fun and rewarding. If you have a dollar store in your area, look for the cheap foil, it will be the thinnest. I also use Scotch spray adhesive - works great. Never liked the Alclad paints, and then you have to seal clear coat it with the decals, defeating the polished effect. Your work looks great.

Looks like a great way to metal clad model railway cars to replicate stainless steel cladding.

A most welcome and very good series of videos! Please show the entire video demonstrating how you did the lower cowl. Thank you for taking the time to demonstrate this!

Hi Richard, I'm new to your channel but wanted to say what a great job you have done with the foiling the engine cover. I have experimented with trying to get paint to achieve the same, but nothing can look better than real aluminium. Keep up the very good work. Dave Porter, London

Part 2 already! Glad I subbed 😆

Definitely using this on the next prop sword i make!

If you want to change the tone and darken the foil, you can boil it in a pan that also has egg shells in. I'm also told putting the foil in an airtight container that has a mashed egg in will do the same trick. Bear in mind it rubs off gradually with burnishing, but that can give a nice effect in itself if you rub with a cloth.

Very soothing. :) I want to do this for the therapeutic value.

Beautiful work Richard 👏

Lovely finish Richard. I started looking for this for a Fairey Delta 2 I have to build. I plan to replace the brass wing fences with aluminium from food trays. I think I will practice on an Airfix P51. Watching your vid made me start thinking, how would I meke the real part in metal. I've watched skilled men "wheeling" skins for helicopters and marvelled at their skill. No critism of your technique, which looks absolutely superb, but the tight curves at the end might be easier if you work (strech) the material a bit more along the middle of the curve a bit more? It also started me thinking whether the technique could be extended towards using the plastic bit as a pattern and forming a metal panel (from food tray allie) to make much thinner (nearer scale) panels for the open panel look, or better flaps, gear doors etc. As to what models might look good "skinned", obviously a B29 but for civil airliners, anything in Americam Airlines would be great because bare metal is like a trade mark and they are regularly polished. An important question Richard. How do you paint over the foil skin, say anti dazzle strips or D-day stripes? Do you use any form of primer or specail paint? Do you cover this sort of thing in you Spitfire build, if so which episode please? Finnally please put the hour and a half video up so we can see more of the intricacies.

Awesome! I know what will be in the back of my mind next time I am choosing a model now. Thank you!

interested in the hour and a half long video :)

Hay hayyy part 2 woowoo🎉

I've done some aluminum forming in the past and the real trick is to anneal the aluminum first. I wonder if you could anneal the sheet before starting. Usually you use a torch and then slowly let it cool. It could be tricky with really thin foil. I am guessing foil may be annealed to some extent already.

This is brilliant. Please please do a video showing the difficult parts. Doesnt matter if its long. Its fascinating. I find its perfectly watchable at 1.5 speed anyway. Can you answer a couple of questions please. First if the glue is dry how does it stick? Is it tacky? Second, i assume the small bit of foil was also glued so why didnt it stick to the main part when you were burnishing it down? Thanks.

Excuse me for a probably stupid question but what wood is your burnishing stick and how did you get it so smooth (dry it out somehow) thanks for a fascinating method of nmf most concise explanation and execution I have seen so far! Ray bham uk

Great job. I really loved the videos. Thank you for showing how you did it. I was wondering can you put a clear coat on it or would it mess up the tin foil?

This is fascinating. I wouldn't mind watching the 90 min video of the lower panel. What would you suggest for a first time foiling attempt?

What an amazing technique, you make it look easy. By the way, what glue are you using?

On the more complex piece with the intake: I'm curious how you wrapped around the intake? Was it a second piece of foil, or just super careful wrapping and cutting? Did it get added before or after the main section? IIRC from the previous video, the intake was part of the initial mold, so I'm really curious how you worked around it.

Where do you find the wooden tool you're using? I have searched "burnishing tool" but havent found anything similar.

I think any attempt to make a shorter vid would loose the real time concept, and lead a first timer to rush .You show what is needed . BTW you are stretching the metal one way, in reality you are shrinking at 90 degrees, which is what you want

Hi Richard! I'm currently building a 1/24 P47 T-bolt, and was considering foiling it. After discovering your channel yesterday (and subbing)I'm going to give it a go after watching your great results 👍

a good quality aluminium ducting tape would work well. i covered some copper radiator tails. they look chrome enough.

Richard, is there a way that i can put the foil on a model rocket tube to make the fine finish that you are able to do?