This is a good tutorial! I would point out one thing though - the flat depth on the plug doesn't change the size of the "glue pocket", it changes the gap between the pieces at their surfaces. The glue pocket size is determined by the difference between the pocket depth and the start depth of the plug. So if your pocket depth is .2" and your plug start depth is .18", there will be a .02" deep glue pocket. The flat depth then is for leaving a gap between the surfaces (if you want one, for example some people like to cut the plug waste away with a bandsaw). If you changed it to something extreme, say 1", then there would be a 1" gap between the surface of the board and the opposing surface of the plug waste. But the glue pocket would still be .02" because that's the difference between a .2" pocket and a .18" plug start depth. Hope that makes sense! Cheers

Stars, this is absolutely genius! Thank you co much for sharing this.

STARS!!!!Just brilliant tutorial 👏👏👏

One of the easiest tutorials on the subject to follow and understand. I have watched them all and this is the one I recommend to others. Thank you for making this!

Stars, thank you for showing these steps. Especially the milling and install of the stars. Most how-to videos skip this important step. Again thank you Sir for sharing your knowledge and your time.

Thank you so much for the tutorial. Really nice to see the physical examples with the plugs cutaway as well as the software walkthrough. About to try some cutting board inlays.

Stars. Finally. A video that explains everything you need to know. And easy to follow and understand. Thank you Sir. Appreciate the help.

Stars…love it! 👌😊

🌟 Awesome! Even better to see it in person.

Great tutorial. The value for me was the confirmation that "your work is as good as your tools". Thank you.

Stars - what a great video! You really explained the whole process well. Thank you.

Stars, absolutely great video! I'm getting ready to purchase my first CNC and this was perfect for me to watch. Thank you

I have read and watched several videos of ways to do V Carve and find this method works best. What I like is that it doesn't cut as deep (unless you want to) and this cuts down on the time it takes to carve something. I also like the way the tapered bits work in this method since they cut easily and clean. I used a 3-degree bit, and the joints were exceptional. Unless I have large areas, I don't use a clearance bit and the bottoms are exceptionally smooth. Thanks for taking the time to put this together.

STARS....Thank you. nice job

Star. Excellent tutorial. Thanks for taking the time to make this video!!!!

Thanks!

Stars: I just ordered the bit to help in fixing my horrible inlays. Garrett has also helped me in some of the struggles I've had as a "newbie". Thanks for the info

Yup, you hit it right on the money with the tool. Thanks for video!

I have used this video multiple times for doing inlays and they come out perfect every time. Thank you!

I had watched Garrets video on inlay and definitely will be using those numbers but I am happy to see you can use a tapered carving bit to do the actual cutting. I feel the 90 and 60 deg v bits are too wide to make tight corners plus using the pocket method is excellent as well. Thank you for this.

Stars! Great video explaining the process.

Grazie per aver condiviso la tua esperienza! 👏

STARS!!! You're awesome!

Stars... Great video. Still completely new to the whole CNC thing, but your wisdom certainly puts me on the right path.

Stars! Thank you for this tutorial this was the best one i have found so far!!! Really appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge

Stars - Thanks for sharing. Great info and instruction. Will be trying out the recommended bit.

Beautiful video man love it!

STARS- Awesome video. Tried your system and worked perfectly. Thanks!!!

Great video! Thanks.

Stars stars stars Excellent tutorial, will implement the numbers you shared. Thanks!

Stars great job making it simple and easy to follow keep up the great work.

Stars, Thanks for the great tip.

Stars This is one of the best inlay vids I have see yet. I like the way you explained the tool pathing & depth. Thanks...

Stars are looking great! This is a great help, I'm about 3 months into the cnc world and want to start doing some inlays, so thanks for the great info!

Nice job. I am excited to try this method.

STARS, What a revolutionary Idea. Completely different than I see everywhere else. Going to try this this weekend. Excellent video and explanations. Much appreciated.

Stars! That is the same bit that Broinwood uses! His inlays are remarkable. I have been using the vcarve path for my plugs, but next one I do I will use the pocket!This has been very helpful, it also shows that I can always learn more. Thanks for posting this.

Stars, I just started my woodworking business and MURICA cutting boards are one of my ideal products. These settings are perfect for my testing for this week. Thank you.

Stars, Thank you for this video, it explains inlays as you really want to do them! I have the Amana 46282-K thats 5.4 degrees and so far I've used it for 3d reliefs, excited to try our your method, I subscribed :)

Stars, Thanks for this. Great idea to use that shallow tapered ball nose so that you don't lose the size of inlays as you sand down

Stars! Stars! Omg Stars dude!!!!! Wow you killed it! My father was born in 1907 and made his living as an interior finish carpenter. He would pat you on the back and with his deep Swedish accent say want to go get some coffee? He would love to talk with you and spend Time in your shop making things all day long and so would I! Thank you for making this Video!

Stars. Great tips! That will be an awesome cutting board!

Stars:👌👍love it. Thanks

Stars look quite nice when done this way. I liked your use of a steeper angled v-carving bit for inlaying.

Amazing clean sharp

Stars, Great Video supper job, WOW so helpful and Easy to follow. thank you

Stars, Great video. Thanks

Stars. This was really useful, I’m using vertex vcarve pro and a one finity cnc. There is a steep learning curve but you Garret mark L and a few others are making the learning soooo much easier. Mahalo

Stars turned out great 😉 Garrett has some nice videos for folks just getting into CNCs or even just a new technique in VCarve.

Stars - Thanks bruv great video.

Stars, Perfect tutorial, Thank you. I am new to the CNC craze and really struggles with the inlay. This is going to allow me to make it happen.

stars. new to cnc, learning inlays. 3 days trying to get the numbers right, and can't figure out those rounded inner corners. i had watched almost half of this video previously and stopped, as i was looking for carveco and metric tutorials... today i solved the corner problem by doing pocket instead of vcarve, just trial and error, now this evening i'm looking for more tutorials, and refind this video, watch all the way, and realize i had only needed to keep watching for another couple minutes to have gotten the info i needed a week ago!. thank you.

Stars, thanks for the information it greatly helps

Stars.... Good tutorial ! Thank you. I'm new to Aspire and I love it, there is so much to do with it ! Keep up the good work!

Stars … great video! As a beginner in the cnc world this content keeps me understand better especially the fact that I’m using vectric v carve pro and have a onefinity journeyman! Keep up the good work and again thank you! You have a new subscriber!

Thanks for the video, I am new to cnc trying to learn. Good videos like your help Thanks

Stars I'm amazed the difference in bits to get those sharp points. Thank you

Stars, and strips! Thanks for sharing this info! Looking forward to getting my hobby shop going. Last commercial cabinet shop I owned had a 14" table saw, miter box, quality spraying equipment, lots of air drills, misc tools, oh, and me! Now, looking at cnc point to point machines under 4k? Laser cutting under 2k? OMG, I would have gone crazy with this stuff back in the day! Now, in my 50's, no chance I want a big shop and a giant table saw. You work on this set up looks simple, clean, fun, and actually not over the top expensive to get into. Thanks for the video.!

Stars, just wanted to give a shout out that even 3 months later your video is still getting watched 👍 and still teaching

STARS, Videos like these make me want to get a CNC when I retire in a couple years. The stars look SHARP! Liked and Subcribed!

Thank you

STARS- Thanks for posting this tutorial. I've been running my shop as a legit business for a couple of years now, but I have somewhat pigeonholed myself and have to expand for a widening customer base. I hate telling a customer "I can't do that" and it gives them the impression that I'm totally clueless. I've half-assedly played around with inlays, but not seriously enough to learn it well. This has given me a lot to consider, especially using a TBE bit to cut with, and not a V bit. It's a concept I hadn't ever heard of, until now. When I have tried inlays, I almost always ended up with something that looked just okay, at best. Most inlays would be ill-fitting and/or have gaps in places that should have been tight. I'm glad I found your video, thanks again for posting!

Stars - Thanks this was very helpful, I haven’t done an inlay yet, but I will use your method. 😊

Stars looks like carbine tooling in machine shop very cool. I use to machine carbine inserts pockets for tooling back in the day

Great tutorial! I was confused for a moment as to how you got the clearing toolpath for the pocket. I didn't create one for me, but then I saw you already had the end mill in your tool list on the pocket toolpath. Once I went back and added the end mill to the tool list, all was right with the world. Thanks again for an awesome, easy to understand tutorial.

Stars great video love my onefinity and just subscribed!

I wish I could post a photo. I used your method here and it worked spectacularly!!

stars, thanks for the tip

STARS, man this is a great video. I am working on trying the inlay in the stars and this has helped me a great deal. I am planning on getting the 6.2 TBN very soon..Many thanks,

Stars. Great tutorial, I am sure I will see more great effort on your part, subscribed.

Stars- really nice! I learned a lot. I am subscribing. Nice presentation as well. 👍

Obrigado pelo tutorial (Thank you for the tutorial).

Stars...Great video! I was a little miffed at first with the downplay of the Vectric method - originally the Paul Zank method (a great friend of mine - RIP)...BUT, every thing you said was spot on and easy to understand and make sense...can't wait to give it a go.

Stars 🌟 beautiful video i love it

I participate heavily in several Facebook CNC groups and one topic people need help a lot with is inlays. I see people throwing out all sorts of crazy numbers they got "from a video" that don't work so they ask for help. I have a couple videos I often send them to and/or quote numbers they should try. Your numbers with a .02 glue gap align with what I already have been telling people but I must say your video is better than any of the other ones I have seen on doing inlays, especially the part about using a narrow TBN instead of a V bit to get steep walls. I'm going to start referring people to this video.

Well, im stumped. Its been some time but historically I have had ok luck doing inlays. Been out of the shop for some time due to medical reasons and figured id kick out a project with a simple inlay. Using the exact same amana bit (46280) and 1/4em for clearing I have a very simple pocket with an island in the middle (think doughnut) using your exact same settings as in video: female pocket = vcarve toolpath start depth 0" and flat depth .2" Male plug = pocket toolpath, start depth .18" with cut depth of .02" I even tried using v-carve tool paths for both male/female ends and same result. The plug drops right it with play I can feel. Not a tight fit at all. Thinking maybe the original SVG was somehow to blame I imported the SVG again on a brand new project. Selected outer and inner vectors and did a v-carve toolpath. Copied the same 2 vectors to a new layer, flipped them, selected outer vector and created an offset of it and then selected all 3 nested vectors to create pocket toolpath. Im totally stumped as to why I have such a loose fit. The machine is a onefinity woodworker and I have not noticed any play in of the axis. no wavy/uneven cuts on any axis yet still have sloppy inlays, super frustrating.

stars. good info new to it myself but trying

Stars, subbing on this vid alone. The trash cans r just a bonus lol

Thank you for the stars

Stars? More like Stares, as in I could stare at that inlay for days. Great tutorial!

Stars - Excellent video. I've spent hundreds of hours researching cutting board inlay methods and beating my head against the wall for months. Although I think I finally found some settings that work, I really like your method and I can't wait to try it. You've managed to solve all of the problems and at the same time, simplify the instructions. Great job!!!

Stars! I just discovered your channel and glad I did. To help you along, I clicked the like and did this comment thing for the algorithm. You also earned a subscribe as the info in the video is quality. End result is worthy of a gold star. ⭐️

Thanks! Very well explained. Can't wait to try this out. Stars. BTW... your narrations reminds me lot of BourbanMoth.

Very nice video, well done. My question is: how do you get real sharp corners with a ball-end bit?? Thanks to share your experience

Super thorough, and very helpful. Good explanation of the "Why" in addition to the what/how. I will say, though, could use a little more volume on the narrated at the computer parts

Stars. Thank you 🙏🏾 140

Stars Great video. I use the 0.0, 0.3 and 0.2, 0.1 method in Vcarve Pro. My primary bit is 1/4 inch carbide 60 deg. Never had an issue with fine details. Having said that, I am going to try your method as I am open to new ideas. I have the Amana bit you reference, but I've always thought of it as a V bit. Albeit a very deep V! Last thing, to remember concave vs convex use this mnemonic, a cave is a hole in a mountain. It goes in. Again, great video! I'm subscribed! So keep them coming.

Love the happy gilmore reference

Stars. 👍 I’ve been researching CNCs, inlays, etc for a year now and hope to get my first machine this spring. I’ve always disliked the “leave a huge glue gap” method and wondered if something like this would be a better option. Thanks for doing the research and providing your findings with us here!! Subscribed and liked. 👍

Stars. Woke up early this morning worrying about my inlay. Trying to do a double inlay. And prolly too small. The problem is that, according to common learned knowledge, I’m using a 60° v-bit. But this destroys the tail feathers on the firebird I’m cutting. Great fix you have here. But I need to try the female cut. Seems odd to use the pocket for it. Thank you.

STARS!! I haveto say this was excellent! I have a laguna CNC and use Aspire. The 1,2,3 method aspire uses sucks! I have been attempting to reach Broinwood for sometime now in asking what depths they use for their boards as I really want to try a more complex board, however using aspires methods would fail miserably. I just finished a board that I am not happy with due to the hollow sound it has from the inlay. I am going to try your method on a more complex board and see what happens. I have the bit you recommend already in my tool kit, and I understand the 15 degree bit is another great one to use. Thank you very much for this great tutorial....thewoodwright

Stars,,, great job. I use easel but I am thinking changing over to vector. Its just when you get use to something its hard to change. I think you can do more in vector. Thanks

Stars - A big thank you. Excellent, excellent video. I love the snap at the end with a little hammer tapping. Have you tested the outer boundaries of how deeply you can make the negative cut? I'm guessing it's only limited by the depth of the cut on the bit, yes?

stars, thanks for the video, I tried the Garrett Fromme method and though close had a part cave in probably due to gap you spoke of. Will get the amana bit and try your method. Any suggested feed and speeds for hardwood, I have the Onefinity machine also

Stars, When you start the cut depth at .18 for the male piece, what do you zero off of? The original block of wood or after the clearing bit? Loved the video and purchased the amana bit. Yikes! $50

Stars. This is totally cool and sharp corners with the ballnose. When doing a union do you do each star seperate of do you have a method of doing all 50 at once?

Stars. Would you say that any inlay shape would work with this method even intricate ones? Great explanation, thank you for taking the time recording it.

STARS - This is GREAT and can't wait to try it! This is very different than any of the MANY vids I have watched on this but I have a couple of questions though if you have a minute please. One is how can I increase the gap of the positive piece above the negative board to be able to cut off the excess with my bandsaw? Would that be to increase the cut depth on the positive piece a touch? Also how do you accommodate for the Start Depth if/when the cut may be deeper than the bit can handle? I've tried so many ways I cannot recall any of the exact depths I used but there were times the start depth plus the cut depth were a little excessive for my bit. Last question is how long were these cuts using the ball nose bit compared to a v-bit? The machining bit at the end seems as though it took quite a while to cut each piece. Thanks!

"STARS" Very informative video. You make it really look easy. Will be trying that this weekend. Think that would make an awesome cutting board. What finish would be your recommendation to use to seal it? Again thanks, will be watching for additional videos.

This makes sense, except for flat depth start depth and glue pocket. But the idea just makes more sense than having to use a V-carve