Ha! Yeah!!

Thanks for always watching!

It's a Stanley #50. Thanks for watching!

It has its place on the workshop, that's for sure! I love it though, and my 45 and 55, especially.

@@TenonsTenors i have an old waffle handle sergent and have never had any luck with it...but i believe its a skill issue. my question would be about the blades. i bought one that looked like it hadnt seen much use, and its taking forever to get the backs flat on the blades. are the blade for these like 0labe blades in regards to the care to detail in blade prep? how flat and polished do these cutters need to be to get good performance?

@@justinsane332 As sharp as you can get them. Since the skis on combination planes provide very little back support for the cutters, you need to have them as sharp as possible. That will require having the backs flat. The cutters are thin, so if you're having trouble getting them flat, use very coarse sand paper, or sharpening stone first, like 60 or 80. I bought a #60 diamond stone for this purpose. Once you've removed a lot of the metal, switch to finer stones and polish.

@@TenonsTenors so basically i should ve treating them as I have, which is a typical chisel or plane blade...good to know, but man i have a course dmt diamond plate and its taking forever to flatten and then regrind the bevel. i may switch to some sand paper to prep then go back to my stones. thanks for the reply, and keep cranking out vids!

@@justinsane332 backs don’t need to be flat it doesn’t have a cap iron just back off edge as you can if you need to use a ruler do so.

When you use the thinnest blade there is a set screw on the right at the back that you have to tighten to tension the ski. Close both skis until they touch, tighten the screws on the guide bars so the adjustable ski is locked in place and then tighten the set screw until both skis are parallel. Also, don't forget that with the thinnest iron you can't use the sliding section, you hold the iron in with the cutter holding screw. If you don't have all the parts I mentioned, you're not going to be able to use the thinnest iron.

Here's a link to a diagram showing all the parts you should have for your plane. Good luck! www.hansbrunnertools.com/imagesStanley%20by%20Brunner/50partslist.jpg

Nope. After the first cut in that direction the ski on the plane would ride up on the back side of the mortise, so the plane would be be at a downward angle and not level with the cut of the first pass when you tried to take your second pass. If you had a plane with a really short ski that fit completely inside the mortise, yes, you could do it that way.