And everything you would like to be?

4

Explain

Tried a jigsaw and failed miserably .. cracked and chips everywhere

Way to go, Jeff!

That's nice. Thanks Herculese for the tip.

HerculeseFurball Thank you.

Ron Bernstein yes this is good advice and it has helped me cut plexiglass. But unless you are ONLY cutting wood with a jigsaw, go ahead and splurge on a professional multiple speed jigsaw. You can use that type for dozens of different cutting scenarios in several material types. There are even blades for ceramics and stainless sheet! The pro saw will only set you back $150 to $250. Bosch is one of the best in my opinion.

Ron, is speed a factor (fast or slow) with melting using your method? I’m trying to cut double circles on 1/4” plexiglass. Thank you for the jig saw blade, masking tape and foam tips. Can it be any type of clear tape? I glued my paper pattern to the plexiglass coating and need to see my lines.

I have been doing it this way for over 15 years. Usually the masking left on the acrylic is the best way to start. Then spray glue your paper pattern to the acrylic. Then drill a hole near your cut line and insert your jig saw blade into the hole and do a one inch test cut before you get to your cut line. The first cut you want to be at a low speed and see how the blade is cutting though the surfaces and if there is any melting starting to occur. If there is try jig cutting just a little bit faster of a blade action and use less pressure following the cut line. This will tell you if you need to tape the line. Taping it with masking tape then is a must. It has to be regular masking tape. If you can tape over your cut line you might still be able to see it through the masking tape. If not you can soak a rag with paint thinner and put the paint thinner on the masking tape and it will make it start to be see through and your line will be more noticeable. If you still cannot see the line redraw it but the masking tape will stop all melting. You can cut acrylic on up to 1 inch this and the tape acts as a barrier that stops the cut material from gumming up. This is a method I used that my father taught me. He owned United Signs Inc. since 1964 until he passed away in 2009. He was a letter cutting machine. He cut millions of letters back when there was no CNC router or machines like today. His letters were all cut on a GRuB band saw and a 3 foot table platform. I learned by watching him and he would sit down on his chair and cut away for hours and hours and his lines were so perfect. We would double tape 4 to 6 layers of 1/8" and hammer then together lightly with a rubber mallet. Outsides would be cut on his band saw and the insides of lets say a O would be done as I just mentioned. Drill a hole and cut them out manually with a jig saw. Until the new routers came out this is the way letters were cut prior to Geminini starting to do vacuum formed letters. I hope this helps you as it does take a little getting use to it but it will work.

Ron Bernstein thank you for learning and sharing your father’s trade. You are a wealth of information. I inherited a band saw from my father, but have never used it. It kind of intimidates me. Think I will buy a blade and ask my husband to teach me how to use it on the outer circle. Assuming it needs a fine metal cutting blade and masking tape too. Do you use the foam with the band saw? I’m thinking not, but have to ask. I’m cutting honeybee feeding floats for my chicken water feeders. I will be drilling multiple holes in the ring I am cutting. I plan to use a drill press with a metal cutting drill bit. I use to make these floats out of wood, but they got saturated with syrup last year and I worry about mold killing my bees. I used a hole saw for the center hole on my wood floats. Wondering if I could do the same with the plexiglass and adding the masking tape. I can’t wait to get out in the shop tomorrow and work on this project.

It was my pleasure, now you do not need the foam with a band saw but you are limited to size of the table to the throat. There is another piece of equipment we use to cut the insides of the circles instead of using a electric jig saw it is made by harbor freight and let me tell you this is one cool little machine. Let me find the catalog number and pricing. This is a must to have and it is really inexpensive and has multiple uses.

Great to hear that Bob.

There are a number of videos that simply use a regular wood blade mounted backwards on a circular saw or table saw. I have not tried it myself but they sure seem to have good results. And very simple. One easy pass.

What about curves.

The cintride blades work better than ones with teeth

Use an angle grinder.

Or a drop of soapy water sprayed on. I've used this when shaping aircraft cockpit bubble windows. Not good when the hot acrylic welds itself back to the part cut.

@recall Have you had a look at the planes that I've been building? When you are cutting an Auster rear screen that was over £350, it does focus the mind not to break it on the wanted side.

@@dave20thmay what's your tool of choice, I crack em everytime with my jigsaw 😥

@@Dee-cannon I use one of those carbide blades in a slowed down jigsaw. Pad the base with felt held on by carpet tape. If the swarfe starts to melt and tries to reform on the other side, stop, but don't let the blade get stuck. You need someone helping to hold the work and also mist spray to prevent any heat. Nowadays I would try my new detail vibrating saw, like Mike Patey of DRACO fame.

@@dave20thmay thanks a million, is that a wood or an aluminium blade by the way?