Glad you gave dimensions on bolts and studs. All of my originals disappeared after 23 years.

This man is in love with this engine and I wonder if his wife now that.Thanks and be safe.

Another great video Scott! You made some great points especially regarding followers, convex face plus returning good used ones to their original placement & not mixing them up. Some observations that may help others: 1. When removing valve keepers [sometimes when just doing a valve regrind] lay paper towel or rag along the valley so dropped keepers don't just disappear. 2. Removing main bearing caps ~ note the lettering or numbers on the caps so that are put back the right way round. Reversing will cause shaft lockup when re-assembling as tunnel is no longer round &/or concentric. 3. From around 22.00 ~ 23.00 note the 5 or 6? dowels that locate the main bearings shells. Can't remember now the last Jeep engine I did, was a long time ago. These stepped dowels are held in the cap or block by smaller drillings in the bearing shell. These dowels are sometimes missing or get lost on disassembly. Not fitting dowels on reassembly ~ bearing shells will spin & block off oil supply. 4. @ about 22.00 the BEARING CAPS show just one hole in each of the bearing shells. These holes are for holding the dowels in place 5. @ about 23.00 the bearing shells in the ENGINE BLOCK have 2 holes one for the dowel & one for oil feed. This feed is not only for the main bearings, but feeds off through the crank to adjoining connecting rod bearings. 1 main feeds con rod 1, 2 main [or middle] feeds con rods 2&3 + 3 main [or rear] feeds con rod 4. 6. A trap for young players is that these cap & block bearing shells will interchange [when they shouldn't] & if this is done inadvertently, oil supply to the main & adjoining connecting rod bearings will be blocked off. Oil pressure gauge will show great oil pressure! 7. If done incorrectly or dowels are left out the engine will be promptly destroyed.

I soak bolts with penetrating oil for a couple weeks. Amazing results but it does take a couple weeks at least on bad stuff. WOOD shims! Brilliant.

I'll be watching all of your videos. I inherited an original 48 2a from a family member that was the original owner. It has been sitting since 95 and is due for a restoration. Original color was Luzon red. The engine has been changed at some point but it's not red, it's kind of a light bluish color. I even have the original hubs for it as well as the hand crank starter.

I have a 46 CJ2A that I plan on pulling and rebuilding the motor, and this video is my new best friend for it. Love the channel, inspiring for me to get mine done. Tub is sitting in the crate, if the cold weather would leave now I'd be set!

There should be 86k likes, great video

best video on KZfaq! so awesome!!

I loved this video. It was just the way it should be done. Only thing I would add is there might be the need for a ridge reamer to remove a cylinder ridge at the top of the cylinder? This is normally the area that is above the piston ring travel and did not have the very common piston ring wear.

Today in my July 1943 Willys MB adventure, I snapped 2/3 bolts on thermostat housing. Every one hour job is one snapped bolt away from an all day job...

Thanks, just getting to that point in the restoration . Great video!

Great video, thanks for sharing your knowledge, and waiting for the assembly video

Great walk through- thanks!

Excellent tutorial. I hope to be brave enough to have a crack at this.

God bless you man ❤🙏

This is gonna be a good help when I will take apart my CJ2 a h - 46 The engine dont turn. It have not run in many years, and stod still in a slight angle front down in a garage.

Really cool. Thanks for sharing this.

Great video! my problem is finding a machine shop in my area that I can trust with the L134 in my MB.Its kind of like being all geared up and ready to go fishing but its raining cats and dogs outside 😞.

From Brazil 🔟🛠👍👏👏👏

Great video. Thank you

Excellent video - very helpful

Good vid part #s are a plus

GOOD INFO

EXCELENTE INFORMACIÓN,GRACIAS

Great video! Thanks !!!

Thank you!

THANK YOU !!!!

You'll pick up a few more horsepower (well 5 or 6 maybe) being .060 or .080 over too! :)

Hi Scott - I love this video. Have you made a video on the re-build of the engine yet? Thanks Ron

Welcome to Project Ford GPW 70311 ​@​

Oh & I forgot to mention when refitting the distributor clean up the bore & use Kopr Kote or similar smeared on the distributor shaft body. And the splash shield ~ Spacers are essential & are these bolts the same as the rest of the oil pan? Be careful refitting that these bolts DO NOT damage the timing cover as sometimes happens when the spacer is left out.

Keep them videos coming

Excellent

Awesome!

Nice 👍👍👍

muito bom..

Is there a video to install the engine?

I WANT The Ford GPW Engine

Fabulous video with great lighting and camera work. Thanks! One question - my new-to-me 49 CJ3a has a governor on it (that’s been disconnected) but no PTO unit. Is this unusual? I thought the two always appeared together.

Engine had 6.2:1 compression ratio to most likely cope with the worst fuel available during the conflict. Maybe down to 80 octane or even worst. Wondering if it wouldn't be possible to slightly raise CR in order to gain a bit of torque while still running 87 octane regular unleaded fuel (US standard). What about 7.5:1 ? What do you guys think?

Hi Scott, I have been enjoying your videos and thanks for sharing. Quick question: I took my 1945 CJ2a out of the barn where it has been sitting since 1983 and put some oil in each spark plug hole. When I turn the engine over with a socket handle on the hand crank boss I seem to run into a hard stop in both directions. Any thoughts? It almost feels like I get through all 4 cycles before the stop. Thanks , Andy

What if the two center piston assemblies are frozen and you cannot turn the crank shaft to access the connecting rods?

What did you use to free up the distributor mine is stuck big time. Love the video

Great Video. Can you tell me the orientation of the connecting rod? There is a small oil hole at one side of the connecting rod..

Hi! Don’t know if this is still being monitored, but I was hoping for tips for a really stuck head gasket!? Thanks 🙏🏼

I was wondering how much you would charge to rebuild one of these engines? I have a 47 cj2a and I don't want to get overpriced. Thank you for the video.

mi have a normal head for willy jeep l134 engine! with no valves on head? it on the block? any ideal? as far as i know valves are on the head!!

I know the three bolts around the camshaft are 3/8 UNC but what is the correct length? I can't seem to find them anywhere in the SNL.

What piston and bearing you use? Oversize 10 20 or 30?

Could you pass me the tightening specifications (torque and order) of the engine cap? my engine is Continental 4cc Flat head cj3a! thanks

Where can i get a replacement engine for a ford gpw? IS that possible to buy one.

👍👍👍🇧🇪

23:35 Sometimes you can save tappets with a special resurfacing machine: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gZd2i7Rk1qyqc40.html

Any idea what a F script pad lock is worth?

I was on-board until I got tired of hearing about part numbers of trivial shit and the dimensions of every bolt in it. I guess that this is what you do when you are trying to appear smarter than your watchers.....