Liked your video immensely, great point on block of wood! Mine’s a little more complicated because I have a blade stop on mine. Sure would like a video for that type of mower.

What I thought!

Truck mechanic here : 100% right! Anti seize that stuff! And that 1/2" impact will tear that UP! 3/8ths is the biggest thing you should touch the mower with.

Exactly, and torque that Bolt !

I am "frozen so tight... etc." IF i choose to put the torch to it; please advise on this: do I heat just the adapter, if possible, then try to freeze it, or just wrestle the hot adapter off? Any clue? Why bother? To try to straighten the shaft and to put on a new adapter. Old side of the road B & S. never should have started, but into it so deep now, I'm interested in HOW to get the adapter off.

@@DScottDay I always heated the adapter, but before starting the torch have your puller adjusted to fit from the adapter to whatever you are using in the end of the crankshaft ( bolt, piece of shafting, or etc.). It would help greatly if you center drilled or at least put a dimple in the end of whatever you are using to pull the adapter over as most pullers have some sort of projection to fit in center drilled holes used in production of shaft type items. Whatever you are using remember that the adapter must slide over it. You can assemble this puller setup and put tension on it before starting the torch so you are not fumbling around with hot metal parts, but try and keep heat away from the puller jaws. Use a big torch tip. A small rosebud tip would be ideal. The idea is to get as much heat possible around the hole in the adapter as quickly as possible. Secure the engine or have another person hold it down. Easiest to work at eye level. Do not heat the exposed crank shaft. That would cause it to expand. You want to heat only the adapter to get it’s hole and thus grip on the crankshaft to expand. You may have to get the adapter pretty hot to loosen its grip on the crankshaft. And for God’s sake wear eye protection and gloves and have no carb or gas tank in sight. Watch for the slightest movement (for your mental well being at the time). Some adapters let go relatively soon, and others need to remain heated until they are almost completely off. I never tried cooling (thermal shocking) any of them off. The reason being you are dealing with the end of an iron casting (the crankshaft) which is very susceptible to cracking under such circumstances. I know, I know the journal surfaces are hardened before grinding at the factory, but that is a form of induction hardening and more or less just forms a hard case which they then grind. Stay with it, I never ever had an adapter that didn’t come off, and I removed hundreds. Let me know when you are successful, and do not get so excited to have it off that you pound the sump cover over the rust on the exposed portion of the crankshaft without sanding to prevent scoring the sump bearing surface or it will leak oil there forever more once reassembled!!

Too much chance of debris getting in the combustion chamber. Just take the wire off to disable the engine.

@@davidmorse8432 you would have to try pretty hard to get something into the combustion chamber like that. I just pull the wire but for some people I like the idea of telling them to pull the plug then there is no chance of an issue. I would rather risk the tiny chance of something getting into the cylinder that would likely blow through on start up where it's a four stroke not a two stroke, than have someone get injured

Your right ! A friend of my pull only the cable, on an old machine, the cable return to the plug and don't get aware of that, the thing start, loss a finger.

Good onethanks

I appreciate that!

She deals from the bottom of the deck

I've got the puller on mine and heated it with the torch and still wont budge! I got this mower from my friend about thirty years ago and it was never treated good! Is there anyway the metals could have fused together over time!? Repositioned the puller and this time used the oxy/acetal torch and hit it with the hammer, and nothing!!! I still have to get the pulley for the drive after this!!! Ugh!!!

@@garybulwinkle82 I had a similar problem on 30 y old one just 2 days ago( lubricating and the puller did not work), after heating with a torch I mounted the puller again directly centered on the shaft (bolts were 'too soft') then used automotive electric impact driver and it worked bit by bit till adapter was off ( no metals fused) pl

@@garybulwinkle82 If they aren't the same metal there can be galvanic corrosion that would be difficult to budge. I worked on one with my dad a few years ago that we hit it with a lot of heat, and a heavy duty puller dad made and didn't get it off, ended up using an angle grinder to cut a slice in it to get it off. I don't remember anything looking odd once we got it off. I'd suggest that route before giving up completely, we ground/cut into the shaft some but doesn't appear to affect anything.

Happy you tried it Jeff! Thanks for watching!

god damn what woman packs a LAWN MOWER for an international move???

@@MrSGL21 We have a customer that that moved her YardMan push back from the UK. Her company probably spent 3 times it’s value packing and shipping it back to the U.S.A., but hey, if ya like your mower.

Thank you!

Xþ61

Clamp the blade to something and hit it lightly with an angle grinder on the last 3 in of each side, balance it before reinstalling.

@@ThisTimeTheWorld The angle grinder works great! I used to use a bench grinder. Never again! 1 or 2 passes with an angle grinder on each side:

WHAT!! NO WAY!! I gotta go look! Thanks for letting me know!

@@Chickanic If you go to the trending tab you'll see it at the top.

@@VinOnline That is CRAZY AWESOME!!! Thank you so much for letting me know!

@@Chickanic Haha no problem! Congrats!

Thank you very much!

Things are much cleaner now than in times past. Even with my own mower, its never an issue of oil leaking or other slime to deal with. In this video, the OHV cover leaks oil and once its sealed up, not dirty at all.. I used to repair heavy equipment and farm machinery, some of the machines were nothing but a grease pit caked up with all types of gunk.

Thank you so much!

Thank you!

Thanks! You too!

I Would Or Stock up on some Pb Blaster or use the Hot Wrench if you have access to one.

YES...!!!!!!!!!!

Bwahahahaha!! My husband says, "Did you realize you said "nipples" like 20 times?" I said, "Well? That's what I call them!" LOLOLOL!

Awesome, thank you!

Thanks Darlin'! Happy 4th to you!

Thank you so much 🤗

yuppers to the anti seize.. I love that stuff. put it on tire studs, spark plugs.. you name it. Saves me a ton of elbow grease and potential snapping parts.

As well as changing the oil on a 4-cycle engine.

Anytime I see a mower in the shop with a bent blade and a Briggs (or old Tecumseh engine), I always check the flywheel key...on these engines, it's likely the timing key is sheared or partially sheared...good idea to check and replace if damaged. Of course, after removing the spark plug, check the crankshaft for trueness...

Great info

Thanks Greta!!