Nice job! Thoroughly explained and the camera work is exceptional. Thanks for taking the time to share with us.

Once again, a thoroughly well thought out presentation. Make one feel an expert.

Thank you for a most informative video. On the topic of DC operation, having used your method many times I can confirm that the illustrated circuit (with the rectifier the right way round) does work on DC and the rectifier is also crucial if using the capacitor. look forward to more videos in future.

Very impressive. It really takes the layout to another level, and your in depth tutorial made me feel confident that even I could try this despite me having limited understanding in electrics. Thank you for this, keep the awesome videos coming

total respect, iv just sat n watched this and im still gobsmacked, but you are 100% rite, it transforms your layout, must say thank you for all your fantastic how to vids, they are so good and informative, thanks

Great video. Good instruction and a very cool final result. Thank you for posting it.

havent seen your videos for ages, excellent mate just going back in to OO gauge after a while away, ill be browsing your channel for some more tips, excellent work.!

Another excellent video tutorial. I was very much looking forward to see how you did this. Thanks!

Thanks for this I will be definitely be using this as a frame of reference when I get round to doing the same. I would also like to take the opportunity in saying How much I'm enjoying all your video's to date . Many thanks. Anthony

Just tried the aluminium foil idea to bridge the bogie axle bush - works a treat! Thanks very much.

I've used this circuit in all my mk3s, it fits well at either end by the doors. For couplings I'm slowly moving over to kadees.

Cool film you do an ace job of making it understandable , just got my first train set and am looking forward to watching your films and having ago myself.

Brilliant video. It has inspired me to give it ago when i've got my basic layout sorted. Many thanks.

Brilliant video tutorial, very easy to understand and very well explained. Congratulation!

In the open coaches I hide the circuit in the toilet area of the coach. It's a good idea to mark the stripboard for the leds to keep the spacing even.

Hi ,Thanks for vid Richard .I found another way to get the power through the plastic bush was use a thin strand of wire instead of the foil .Have tried it and it works ok .After feeding the wire through the bush i use a 1.8mm needle and after feeding the wire through the bush ,put the needle through the bush and wire ..That way it lines up the bush and metal wheel and is easier to locate the bush into the wheel ,as it,s very fiddly to get that bush back into the wheel for those that haven't got nimble fingers .Hope this helps anyone doing this modification ..

You will need the bridge rectifier on DC as well because the polarity is reversed when the train is reversed. This will blow the electrolyic cap, plus it will probably pop the LED's because they aren't designed to reverse block high currents.

Good one - thanks - and very timely as just about to fit lighting into my GNER Lima/Hornby MkIIIs. I have purchased light strips from Express models but have taken note of your power pick-up system as was looking at inter-coach connectors.

Thanks, I spotted the rectifier issue after i'd uploaded. At least I wired the coach correctly!

You are correct to be concerned. If you look at the diagram you will see a 220 ohm resistor before the flow of charge reaches the capacitor. That resistor reduces the 12V DC output from the rectifier to 9.8V at the capacitor if the other resistor is set at 1000ohms.

great one mate loved it, looks great too, now just some night time running sessions

Hi Rich , the coach lights on the hst looks great mate well done! ill have to send you mine to do! Have a great xmas mate cheers Andy

I am planning on improving a 225 set with lights on dcc in a semi permanent rack with the decoder in the DVT and using close couplings with electronic couplers.

Cracking work, good to catch up with Everard Junction some fantastic videos all the best Darren NSE DAZ

Excellent tutorial. Just one point. You can't just exclude the rectifier for DC. If the carriages were run in reverse on a DC layout the circuit would need reverse current protection for the LEDs (which wouldn't illuminate anyway if polarity is reversed). You also need to use an NP or non-polarised capacitor or it could explode if reverse current is applied. I'm fairly sure about this but others with more electronics experience may want to confirm.

Nice work, looks fantastic!

I put the capacitor as near to the toilets as I can, usually by the end doors or in the corridor. The coach is really easy to take apart. Remove the bogies and the unscrew the 3 small screws underneath and pop out any pipework at the ends of the coach. The body should then lift off.

Thanks, I get everything from rapid electronics, part numbers are in the video.

Thanks for the info. Keep those vids coming I have learnt a lot from you. thanks once again.

Another well detailed video .. well done.

I will be film some night shots, I'm working on getting more of my coaches finished right now..

Yes, that can happen. If it does try increasing the size of the hole or apply more pressure to the pipe until it goes in.

The solder I use is quite thin, about 1.5 to 2mm thick. People don't like flux because it has corrosive properties, so if you don't remove any excess you can get problems. However I've used flux since I started the layout 4 years ago and have not had any electrical failures due to flux so far.

Just be aware that the bridge rectifier drawn in the circuit at 5:35 is incorrect. The individual diodes should point towards the +ve DC point of the rectifier.

Excellent tutorial. It would probably work well with the new led tapes as well, less soldering. They have resistors already installed for 12 volt circuits.

Suirely you can purchase wheel sets that are only insulated on ONE side ? that would make this whole process so much simpler ?

I have done the HST, it featured in the video. I have now finished the MK1s used for the demonstration.

thinking of doing this to my Hornby Pullman coaches. Useful video, thanks :-)

Very true, plus you will have to take the coach apart every time a bulb goes! With the number of coaches I have, I would soon overload my DCC with the current draw when using bulbs.

A couple tips, You can slightly bend the 'legs' of your electronic components once inserted into your strip board, no more burnt fingers. You should cut back the legs on your capacitor to prevent accidental contact with other components of your circuit. Investing in a second roll of wire to have at least one other colour makes assembling circuits easier to understand and troubleshoot. You can purchase electrical solder with flux core that does not require the copious amounts of flux that you seem to be using, this prevents corrosion of components, accidental soldering of adjacent strips on your board, and makes for a cleaner assembly. Shrink tubing would help protect your pickup assembly which looks like accidental shorting is very possible.

Thank you very much and much appreciated. Keep up the excellent work.

Thanks mate, glad you liked it.

I run a rake of bachmann mk1 coaches, can anyone advise the best method for opening them up to add lighting/passengers pls?

I've seen those, good idea. I was on a budget as I have so many coaches to wire up.

Thanks Terry, it is difficult as I said. Pre-made boards are available from DCC Concepts, but one you start pricing up a fully lit train of them it becomes very expensive!

Great tutorial! very well explain, thanks! I just did something like that but for a engine facility pit. I'll make a video sometime to show how I did it. Again thanks for sharing!

I made just made some of these! I know it’s an old one but... Cracking video as always!

Thanks, the iron has a variable temp, it does get very hot.

Thanks, I really like that case. Much better than my old coolermaster stacker.

Very interesting as are all your vids.I have HD 3rail so wont be doing this to my stock as it would de value them but may do it on my newer stock on 2 rail. How do you turn the lights off for daytime use or are they left on.

Hi fantastic idea. I have copied it but have used 10 leds what resister would i need to use to stop the lights from blowing and keep the lights bright .... cheers paul

fantastic video as always. Tempted to to detail inside the coaches now? paint the seats and floors?

Thanks, I shall give it a whirl. Love your videos and you'll be pleased to know that you are partly to blame for my move from N to OO!

A really good video, although i have seen led strips which i think do what you have just made, although how would you convert that to dcc so you could turn them on all at the same time if your running a hst set?

hi i looking at putting it into my hornby intercity mk4s and i want put in the underframe but their is limted space so can tell me the measurements

It looks easy,when you see it done.The board you use to check the items what is it called and were do you get one from ?.

I get the stripboard from rapid electronics. It's available in various sizes and is quite cheap.

Yes, will certainly be doing that.

Thanks for you great ideas very useful. Could you tell me the values of the capacitor and rectifier please. Thanks Andy

Nice work the lights on the coaches look awsome, I subscrubed and liked.

very good tutorial, probably be a VERY long time before i do this to any of my rolling stock! could it be possible to wire the lights up to a DCC chip so they could be turned on and off without taking them off the track?

Very cool & very educational, Thanks Mate

Enjoyed your video and nicely explained. I'm looking forward to viewing other episodes. Thanks!

another good video from you I now have to try it

Outstanding , may I ask what you used to cut up the strip board. thanks Ed

Another great video.

I have a question.i bought viessmann lighting coach lights strip.They have leds , rectifying bridge and resistors include built in.Although they dont come with any type of capacitor so they flicker badley while on dirty track/wheels. i tried to add a capacitor by soldering it to the strip but theres no soldering points between the diode bridge and leds or resistors.Do you thin i need another diode bridge on the strip current entrance ? Im running dcc and the capacitor doesnt cope with it of course.Thanks ahead for your videos and help

As your layout is already dcc I would convert the pacer to dcc. You can then wire up lights via the decoder.

The flow of charge in electronics goes from positive to negative. It's best the reduce the voltage with the resistor first and add the led's once you've stepped the voltage down to the required level.

Awesome video. I will be using about 24 LEDs in my coaches, what capacitor farad should i use?

Wonderful video and brilliant explanation step by step. Being DCC, what would you have to do if you wanted to control the lights so they are off during the day and turned on at night? Can it be done? Thanks again for the video

One tip, bend the legs of the LEDs slightly once you have fitted them in the strip board. It holds them still so you don't burn your fingers when soldering ;)

A couple of questions: I have Bmann Dynamis system with (currently) 1A power - if you add lighting what is the current draw per coach ie total for say a 6 rake coach set What temp / setting did you use on yr soldering iron; I have a 25w fixed job but also a variable iron from Maplins not yet used (bought for WM kit construction) Many thanks for the perr level advice - really adds inspiration (I am also trying to fit LEDs into ViTrains Class 37 & 47 locos and Hornby/Lima Class 43 HST sets

Good point, however I often have to hold what i'm soldering. I go for the quick in and out approach to avoid burning myself.

Thanks On TSOs I hide the stuff in the toilet. If thats not big enough I use the gangway at the either end by the last door. You do somtimes have to remove a wall or seat to get it all in.

I'll eventually get to doing the coach lighting. When I get a layout started, and a few more trains. Because the American economy is so bad, most of us don't even have jobs. But great tutorial, really helpful.

I do all of my coach lighting for my DC only railroad. I ordered some LED strip lighting, 3300uF capacitors, mini full wave bridge rectifiers (the little square ones) from fleaBay (which came from China for under $15.00. I made my own pickups from little copper strips salvaged from an old computer. The LED strip lighting (300 on a roll) can be cut apart at every 3rd LED and have the ballast (current limiting) resistors already mounted on each 3rd LED. I think I used 12 LED's per coach. The LED strip has an adhesive backing which easily mounts to the interior roofing and they are 12 volt DC. I have converted all the incandescent lighting to LED strip lighting on all my coaches and plan to do 4 more Riverossi coaches. Of course you have to use metal wheel sets with one insulated wheel. The REA (Railroad Express Agency) coach lights were too bright (I used bright white LED's) so I painted each LED with some yellow acrylic paint and now they look period correct. Now I've found Loksound ESU current collectors (#50707) from LItchfield Trains for around $13.75 which includes shipping and will do 8 axles. The trick is to cut them apart and mount (super glue/epoxy-your choice) them on the bottom of the trucks. One for each opposing wheel, so you only need one pair per coach/caboose to do the job. The pickups rub against the wheel and not the axle. They have solder pads to connect the wires to your LED strip lighting, full wave bridge rectifiers and 3300uF caps. I can do coach/caboose lighting for under $2.00/coach-caboose. Cheers & 73 from W Rusty Lane K9POW in eastern Tennessee (& yes, I'm a Ham)

Beautiful soldering. Those joints look perfect. What type of flux is that you use?

if you have a 12 volt led do you still have to put in a resitor if the layout is 12volt

What a great tutorial. You should contact one of the Magazines and get a job with them as this is great stuff. Really really good.

Would it be easier to just use LED strips? Any issues with that?

Brilliant. I can find set lighting strip - very expensive. Where can I purchase the circuit board strip? Thanks.

You can get self adhesive copper tape - as used for electrifying dolls houses. That would seem a decent alternative to Veroboard.

Hey, I had these working on both my coaches. Tested and running fine for about 5 mins. Then both of them just stopped working for reasons i can't figure out. I took the leds off to test them and they are now only working sparatically but definitely not blown. Anyone experienced this or have any idea what it could be?

wiring 4 leds in series you will only need a 22 ohm SMT resistor. this will then connect straight into the dcc concepts decoder, this is a perfect solution for n gauge, i only ever use 1206 SMT leds, they give off unbelievably diffused light.

Where would the circuit go if it wasn't a brake coach, and do you reccomend marking the holes where the LED's will go on the strip?

does the capacitor fit? Also, could you post a video on how take apart a Bachmann Mk1?

Great video well done. Can you make the light turn on and off when you press the function button?

Hi there, just wandering what diameter of solder you prefer to use? Also many people have advised against using flux. Your comments will be much appreciated Many thanks from Tasmania.

will this circuit work in reverse .as i dont think it can without a Diodes Blocking

lovely workmanship

Great video! One remark: the rectifier in the electronic circuit should be rotated a quarter turn anti clockwise.

Thanks for another great video. Just wondering why your capacitor is only 10v. I am under the impression that you should usually use one with a higher voltage rating than your maximum AC voltage as the voltage out of the rectifier is at the top of your AC input and the capacitor is there to 'smooth' that output (and just happens to stop flicker as it acts like a mini battery). I may stand to be corrected here though.

Very clear tutorial! You've made it simple-ish! One question, how do you hide the gubbins in a TSO coach?

Just one observations on ebay one can purchase LEDs in strips, both white and warm white which are ideal for sticking inside the coach roof.Avoids fittind separate leds to a circuit board.

Locos, coaches and electronics have been fine in the loft. However, extreme cold will require the locos to run for a few laps before they run smoothly. Card kits can be ok, but will not look too good after a few winters.

Would you still need to use a Bridge Rectifier if you used a dcc decoder? (Please excuse me if thats a stupid question)

The capacitor is 4700 micro F. I can't remember what the rectifier is. The part number for it is in the video.

Yes, you could wire in a chip if you want.

You can if you add a dcc decoder to each coach. The lights stay on in mine.