About 13min in, excellent explanation of how electrofrog point works in terms of wiring and polarity.

Brilliant explanation. I'm just starting on a layout and will admit to already using your method for constructing the scenery. I've got electrofrog points but wasn't going to motorise them - however now that i've seen this I think I will - particularly as I intend to weather the track and so will be making the switching contact areas dirty! Much appreciated.

Fantastic video, first class presentation. Electrics puts the fear of god into me, but you make it so easy. Keep up the great work. Jeff Rigden

Just found your video. Best one going and it now all becomes clear. Thanks for doing it. Andrew

Yes thats correct. I'm slowly working my way around the layout fitting motors to points that have been in place for over 2 years. As long as the hole is big enough you shouldn't have any problems.

Good work on this layout. It really is coming along very well. 👍😊👍👍

Just starting my lay out. Great vids full of loads of good info. Thanks

Ohhhhhh! My error, after reviewing the video over n over i now clearly understand, it was my ignorance, U are using electrofrogs, its just that u further add better constant power so that no matter how dirty the inbetween faces of rail get....u still smoothly get thru..forgiv me for wasting ur time with this i trust ur knowledge n knew that id better review vid, now i got it thanx again to ur great instruction..Ralphy

This just made point wiring and electro frog points a whole lot simpler for me...thank you for sharing.

@slendersausage I did, attaching the wires into the blue crimp blade splicers is wiring them to the rest of the layout. As said 2 wires go to DCC + and - the other 2 are DC + and - to operate the switch. Everyone's layout wiring is slightly different so I focused the vid on the motor itself as this was what most people were asking about.

that was a ace video very informitive and corect..you can drill a hole for the wire that comes off the frog before fitting the point to the basebored,and solder a wire to it under the base bored

@ps3nut17 Thanks. I've just had a quick look and the hornby select has 4 sockets on the back. 2 are for the track, the other 2 are a 15v dc supply, you can use that to power the point motors.

THANKS FOR THE POINTS VIDEO AS ALWAYS YOU MAKE IT LOOK SO STRAIGHT FORWARD

Hi Richard first 2 point motors installed easy really thanks to this tutorial :-) 26 more on the fiddle yard :-( to go, will be an expert after this little lot

@armleyroad Thanks mate, you only need the insulating joiners at the end of the V coming from the frog. Once those are on the point will work like any other.

Thanks for putting that together... until now i didnt really understand the peco points so i went with Hornby and put the power clips on them for DCC 99% of my layout is Hornby track.

:) Passionate at modelling with a FLAIR for clear and steady presenting .. quel bon homme!

another great video your layout looks very realistic

Great video , better than the professional DVDs I've got explaining this , thank you

Thank you. You’ve cleared my head 👍🏻

Very informative Richard!

I use sprung centre off switches. The 3 terminals on the bottom make on-off-on as you flick the switch.

Hi. Great insight to electrofrogs. However I still use insulfrog and was wondering if I can still use these seep motors on dc and not wire the frog and dcc wires. Secondly I've seen that the hole needs to be 9.5 mm wide. However a drill bit leaves a huge hole underneath. So can I effectively just make a hole 9.5 mm wide underneath the tie bar and just make the lenght according to the diameter of the motors bar ?

Have been wondering how to do that. Thanks for the info.

Thanks for your excellent video!

I use peco code 100 track as it works well with everything and is easy to use. I would also recommend code 75 as it more realistic, however older models don't work so well on it.

Excellent video this is exactly what I want to do, thanks

I think for a rank amateur like me the point motors are very daunting especially with all the technical information that you have added in here... what I guess I needed was a very simple...." this goes here, this goes here and that goes there" video.... this is still a bit daunting.

Thanks for the helpful video!

Great Explanation really helpful!

@itgamer100 The dcc + - goes to the motor and gives the track power. To make the motor move i use the dc 12v. DCC is AC voltage and must only be used to power the track either directly or through a polarity switch on a point motor. Peco do make points the same size of the basic hornby ones, i don't know if they do electrofrog ones though.

@boneyknocknees No problem mate, glad it helped you

Hi there Everard Junction Thanks for that I now understand. I am hoping to have a video up onto you tube at the end of feb or the beginning of march and I will thank you in the video for all your help. I will recommend your channel too Thanks for everything Martin

Forget to say excellent videos by the way!

Very useful video, thank you

Nice Work i'll have to do this when i get a layout up and running.

Very well explained, thanks!

a very good tutorial video mate.but it seems like to much hard work for me tho LOL!i really like the static grass around the siding of the tmd, i must invest in a grassmaster soon.looking forwards to another update.

I couldn't see why either. I have left them as standard, all work fine.

@pyronathanpyro The motors are easy to find, wire is from maplins and the switches are from ebay, they are double throw centre off switches.

Really useful tutorial. Thanks! :)

nice video i can remember doing my point motors, along job but worth it.

Hi, love the videos, very informative. Could you tell me please what grade of cable you use for each type of drop wire you use. i.e. track, lighting and accessories. Thanks.

@hornbyhobby It is possible if (like me) you drilled a hole for the point motor before the ballasting. If you didn't the you can pobably get away with a surface mounted point motor, but i've never actually used one.

many thanks for the info.I am not electrical minded but I am following your instructions I am not sure regarding the white wire what you mean or where it goes. I think you do a great job explaining on these vids and look forward to some more many thanks

I love how you used the SimCity 4 soundtrack for the intro music

@maxilfli1 Yeah, they are peco code 100 streamline points, you can get them in insulfrog or electrofrog

@jasonandjoesrailway You would be best with insulfrog points, and would have to use some sort of surface mounted point motors instead.

The bus wires are the 2.5mm solid core wire you get out or ordinary grey building wire. I bought a reel from a diy shop and stipped the two wires out from inside.

Yes most wire like that will do. I have point motors wired using multicore RS232 computer cables which have fine wire in the cables (only meant for signal or digital pulses not power). Over a long run the resistance of fine wire makes the point sluggish due to voltage drop so use thicker wire for longer runs.

I use heat shrink for the connectors. The spades are clamped on using pliers.

You can convert the running track to DCC and still use analogue DC for the points. Alternatively you will need to get an 'accessory decoder' to drive the point motors - they drive up to four each, it is then just connected to the power bus - or install a 'district' for accessories (power booster).

Should do, I think the accessory point decoder works with most point motors.

@boneyknocknees They can be quite tough, I use a dremel.

@gazclass58 Thanks, if you use insulfrog you don't need a polarity switch and the wiring is more simple.

Thanks for the video Richard. This was very informative. I like the idea of using 12V and switches rather than DCC, but I wondered (sorry the whole wiring thing often confuses me) you said you also connected it to the DCC bus wires? Are the points only run through a DCC decoder type box and if so what are the DC wires attached too? Thanks in advance, Dan

wonderfull video and very helpfull to me, thanks alot,

I get the smaller wire from rapid electronics. The bus wire is the 2.5mm solid core wire you get out or ordinary grey building wire. I bought a reel from a diy shop and stripped the two wires out from inside

@GreenValleyRailway The switches I use are the single poll, double throw type, I got them off ebay.

I have a question? Forgive my ignorance I am new to DCC, point C does that go to the DCC controller and then the controller goes to the switch. Or can I connect point C straight to the middle terminal on the switch? So what I am asking is, where does Point C go to it's the middle point on the switch or controller?

Hi Richard, A very informative video as usual. You mentioned in this video or the previous that you use kadee couplings. I like the idea of them too. What # type/number kadee do you use & they fit all of your locos/rolling stock easily? There seems to be such a huge range of kadee couplings. My stuff is all hornby.

Hi Everard Junction I have had great success installing the PM1 motors thanks to your how to videos. I'm looking to go a little more advanced and want to install two motors onto one switch (I've seen you show the finished product in one of your previous videos, but forgot which one). Following on from use the PM1's and a CDU, can you help by letting me know how to wire two motors up to one switch? I've got two points connected together and wanted one point to switch from one operating line to another. Any help greatly appreciated Andy

Great i may try this !

@jackabeejackson The best size for the hole is probably about the size of a 1p coin. Then the motor can be mounted underneath.

The Best tutorial I have seen on wiring electro frog points. I love the wiring diagram, really simplifies everything. Many thanks. Kind regards. John. ps. Do you still use Seep points? It's just that I am reading on some forums that they tend to short out or just stop working. Have you been using them for some time?

@smithy9148 The seep PM1 is best used with electrofrog, it will work fine with normal points though.

When I was doing all the Switch Wiring on my HO Layout, I bought a Spool of Computer Wire with 25 wire's Across the Strip they put a RED Wire every FIVE ( 5 ) wires which makes it easy, First at one end I found the red wire which is five lines, I made a small cut and pulled the wire( to save time you can make your Cuts every 5 wires ) for pulling, you might ask why 5, first off they are easy to find and pull, when I have 5 lines I made another cut at 3 which I used for all my switch's very easy with the Center and two sides for Left and Right with the Center being the Common Line. Very easy as long as you KEEP the Line FLAT, At each end I placed a piece of masking tape with R-C-L at each end, very helpful for LONG Wire Run's, Now with the 2 remaining lines I used them for all my AC lines like Light's and What Not's, and the Computer Wire Comes in Very Long Rolls, which will get you to a lot of Point's, like wiring a Yard and More. Don't let the Price Scare you because you will be getting a lot of wire for you money, and it is totally worth it, in wire and trouble, and Have Fun.

@EverardJunction Brilliant- Thank you.

@everardJunction with these toggle switches, isnt the way it works is, when you flip the switch to the right, the wire on the left is activated, and when you flip to the left, the wire on the right is activated? or is it the wire on the same side that your flipping the switch? I have heard mixed things about them.

@gooders1958 Thanks, glad it helped you.

@MrBenbo96 You could, during this time british rail had a mix of concrete and woodern sleepers on the network.

Hi I've just watched the video installing seep polnt motor and I've got a couple of queries. Does the wire which is attached to the electrofrog point connected anywhere also do you have to cut the bits underneath the polnt as in the peco instructions and solder wire across the two metal pieces underneath. If you could advise it would be much appreciated. Mike Tee

Thank you for that I will apply that on a dodging point on my layout most of my steam locos stall on that point, I hope that this dosn't just apply to DCC operation

Do you need to wire up the point if you have a peco point

I like the design of the seeps. I heard of people having problems with them and wonder if you have had any problems.

Hi can I use the 14v outlet of a transformer to power the switch as the rails are Dcc ?

Good stuff thanks for sharing...

I have used a similar way but I use just three wires to the motor as I'm just starting out and won't to get it all going so I have the + and - going to the point motor and then the frog wire and it seems to work I need to switch it by hand but it's working and it allows me to upgrade it in my own time

Thanks for the info, However! today I installed my first Seep motor using electrofrog Peco points and for some bizarre reason my D & E connections on the Seep motor are the other way around!, D is to 0V - to the DCC supply and E is to 12V+ DCC supply.....very strange, took me hours to work it out! lol. I wonder if they have changed them recently?. All woks fine now

Very useful thanks !!!!!!

Great video am i right in thinking that the 12v on the switch and 0 (c) go to a acceries bus wire?

Hi Richard, do you still need to take the two wires out from the underside of the point just before the frog and make a connection between the two rails, so contact is always there regardless if the blades aren’t connecting properly, as you would with a Peco point motor.

@EverardJunction Oh alright. Thank you. By the way, amazing layout!

Hi you ok Just swapping to peco track where does the c wire connect to Cheers

I don't have a vid about that at the moment. It's on my list of videos to make.

@AdamHorton1234 I use an old gaugemaster controller for power, at present I don't use a cdu.

Just re-watched this after working with seep & peco on my new layout. How did you get by without the soldering mods to the rails everyone recommends?

I have electro frogs and I have now followed your advice, I don't see what difference it could make to cut and then solder new wires to the outer tracks. Surely all your doing is allowing two (correctly polarised) feeds if you don't cut it so, your frog has two chances? It can't short as the polarity switch surely only matches the physical blade?? I think that's right and that way I can run trains before all motors are in... Thanks for your help, great videos!! Always a treat!

Thanks for this Info. Can I just use the two switch (A & B) + The Common (C) with the Frog (F)? Do I have to wire D & E, (What are they for??? John

Hello Mate, I'm finally getting near the end of soldering droppers onto my tracks and like you, have decided to go with the point motors although I hadn't made up my mind at the start. I will use Seep PM1s as well, but have yet to buy them. Can you tell me please what size hole to leave for the point motor? I've seen motors fitted to the underside of ponts and dropped 'into' the base boards but the holes for these have to be quite large so I would prefer the same method as you. Cheers, Chris

@T0pper221 The switches are from ebay, they are double throw centre off switches

Hi Everard Junction, Great video, do you have any methods for making the hole for the actuating rod whilst the turnout is in place permanently? I wish I had considered this myself when I started building my layout, because I have always had plans to electrify the switch points on my layout. Thanks R

For DC use without a polarity switch you will need to use a Seep PM-2 point motor. You will only need to use terminals A,B and C to get them working. Currently all hornby points are insulfrog.

Hi there. Im fairly young and into N gauge. Mainly modern. I'm just about to start making my layout soon!

Excellent videos. Thanks. The way this is all hooked up I assume is focused around a DCC set up? Or does this method apply to DC too? I guess I’m specifically referring to the fact that you made points totally live.

You will have to drill a hole for the point motor. Using a screwdriver you should be able to carefully get the point off the baseboard. I have managed to remove ballasted track without breaking it many times in the past.

See on your switch with the yellow and red wires...do you use black insulating tape at the connectors?, what are those black plasitc sleeves at the joins? I am wiring up lighting for a building and I am soldering the joins and then insulating them with black tape. Also, how did you attach the wires to the spade connectors?

@ipodwindow Glad I could help

cheers for the reply, i have A&B going to my switch, F to the frog, D&E to bus wire and C to my - on my cdu but im getting a short when i flick the switch, any help cheers

@Class59Cameron Yes i have but i'm not far from finishing them all, only 4 left!