No worries glad you liked it

Awesome:)

Glad you found it useful mate

Glad you liked it

It’s pretty good, as long as you don’t get dirt and grit on it or put heavy items on then and scrap them across the surface. To repair you can sand it back and polish or sand it back and repair another layer :)

Y. E concrete takes years to reach its full strength. If it s fairly think line mine 40mm. I would wait 7 days because epoxy really doesn’t react well with water until it’s cured fully. :)

had the question in mind...

This is the sealing step, it's a really thin layer

The epoxy sealer is UV resistant and food safe. So it can be used outside. Is the white pigment countertop made from concrete or something else?

Most epoxy will yellow outdoors so I highly suggest not using it on a white surface. Stone coat platinum is a hybrid that is non yellowing and rated for outdoor use and there is also polyaspartic that is also non yellowing.

I thanks :) I do t think it will stand up to the heat. Room temperature cure epoxy like this one will have a deformation temperature of around 60-80 degrees Celsius. I can however recommend a Matt finish I used recently which goes up to 200+ Celsius. Check out my other video here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hZl0gM130NinZGw.html

Get the high temperature epoxy and then the super crazy hard roll on extra sealant layer. Both heat and scratch resistant - look into them at Stone Coat Countertops

You can pour the epoxy straight on the concrete :)

Yes you could. You just need to sand the surface to give the epoxy a key to stick to. Between 180 and 240 grit is about right. You also need to make sure you fill any holes with cement slurry, the surface should be as smooth as possible to give you the smoothest finish possible. :)

@@MattHutton are you happy with the surface after some time has passed? Has the surface dulled from use? Have you scratched or stained it? How is it with moderate heat?

Dan Gehring I’ve actually been meaning to make an update answering all those questions. The surface take boiling water being poured directly on it, hot cups and plates very well after a couple of weeks. Its pretty scratch resistant but you can see minor scratches in the reflection if you look hard at it, but it not that noticeable day to day, i.e the surface has not dulled but there are definitely visible scratches. No stains at all easily wipeable. And overall I would definitely use again for an indoor worktop, but not for outdoor.

Yeah, you can add pigment to the concrete :)

It cost approximately £150 in total for that breakfast bar worktop, which is for the concrete and resin for the top. I’m sure you can find real wood worktops cheaper on gumtree or Facebook marketplace but I loved the project and effect the concrete gives :)

@@MattHutton chears pal, much appreciated. Any chance you could tell me the approximate size of your worktop, and the materials involved? I know the Americans can buy bags of pre mixed fine mortar that I'm not sure is available in the UK. Also, did you form it upside down on a board of melamine? Ta

Hi john Hamilton, yes I formed it upside down on the 22mm mdf melamine board. The size is 900mm by 2400mm by 40mm. It’s reinforced with 5mm steel mesh inside. Total weight 245kg. You may need to reinforce your worktop if this will be for a kitchen, I made sure I could stand and jump on the in the three places along its length where it was being supported on the kitchen units because I weigh 80kg. If you go to Wickes the have pre-mixed high strength concrete. I used that because it just cuts out the variable of the mixture being uneven or wrong, which is sometimes easy to do when you’re adding water to concrete. I also added some plasticisers to the mixture to make sure it stayed mouldable and moveable while I vibrated in the mould. I hope that helps. Oh and also olive oil is a good mould release if you polish the surface with that it should come out nice and easy. Where are you from? Best regard, Matt

@@MattHutton that is fantastic info, much appreciated. Its for a breakfast bar/dining table, supported by what remains of the cavity wall that was the back of my house. I need to find a melamine board sized 2.5m x 1.25m to make the mould. I'm from North Manchester. 👍

john Hamilton ah that’s quite far away I was going to say I could come around and help you do and make a video with you. If you can it might be better to go slightly smaller and use a full 1220mm by 2440mm melamine board because you might struggle to find larger boards. But if you have to go large I’m sure you can just buy another board and screw the extra length on. Thanks matt

The brown colour is the natural colour of the concrete. And the black dots are the slurry mixture with is just cement and water mixed together to make a paste.

@@MattHutton thanks for responding! I’ve had trouble getting that look with the Portland cement and concrete products available around here. Apparently Portland changes color depending on where it’s sourced from.

@@H1GH0CT8N3 if you’re from the UK you can use: Blue circle multipurpose cement and water to make the slurry and it will go black like that once the epoxy is poured on top. www.diy.com/departments/blue-circle-multipurpose-cement-25kg-bag/35715_BQ.prd?storeId=1018&ds_rl=1272379&ds_rl=1272409&ds_rl=1272379&gclid=Cj0KCQiA4feBBhC9ARIsABp_nbUXm0dMDRZFtW-jAS4IEIEQm38LSPcTLB8PtRuJbXlPu2WqJEo-vgMaAjlMEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

That is so simple and amazing. I've watched alot of videos what over complicates things.. I took special notice of what van delaminate the surface. I think I'll do a base pour and then an actual pour so that doesnt happen. My concrete has slight cracks that occurred during drying.

The max temperature for this epoxy sealer is approx 60 degrees. But I recently used a product called H-Seal Concrete Countertop Sealer in my latest concrete worktop video. Have used it for 6 projects now and work really well and goes up to 200 degrees Celsius. Could be an option if you’re looking for a natural Matt finish. Here’s the video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hZl0gM130NinZGw.html

Hi meg, it just cement and water. Just add enough water to make a thick paste. Please do wear gloves because it will give your hands chemical burns. Either washing up cloves or nitrile gloves

Matt Hutton thank you! And you mentioned Seal. Did you just do a thin epoxy seal coat or a separate sealer first? Thanks!

Meg Jones hi meg, no it was just one pour of the product I use in this video

Glad you liked it :) are you going to give it a go?

@@MattHutton i surly will

Carlo De Vivo nice :)

What do you mean by how long do you need to wait? As long as the surface is clean dry and has the 220 grit key you can pour the epoxy straight away. You could use a hair dryer to help dry it out faster if you like.

@@MattHutton @Matt Hutton I was concerned about the surface feeling dry to the touch, but maybe still having absorbed moisture deeper below the surface. Do you wet sand or dry sand after your slurry? I have been reading that people say dry sanding makes a surface with not enough tooth for proper adhesion

@@julienlevasseur5524 ohhh sorry my apologies, I thought this was a different video and you were refinishing a previously epoxy sealed worktop. I gave mine overnight in a warm room and it was dry enough the next day to pour the epoxy.

@@MattHutton Ok thanks. Do you ever dry sand prior to pouring, or only wetsand?

@@julienlevasseur5524 if some areas still need a little scratch up before the pour I’ll do it dry and then wipe of the dust with acetone.

Yes, the surface must be as dry as possible epoxy does not like damp or cold surfaces or too much moisture in the air. Ideal curing conditions are in a room that no-one goes into when it’s curing to stop dust/debris in the air from being stirred room temperature at around 18-20 degrees Celsius. And no excessive moisture in the air. I hope that helps :)

@@MattHutton fantastic mate. Awesome advice and thanks for sharing your experience.my concrete top is in my kitchen which is also near my washroom, we are living in and accessing the area frequently. That is gonna be bad for my epoxy curing i bet 😂

@@59Wanders if you do it just before going to bed it won’t be sticky by the morning, so should be all good ;)

@@MattHutton that is smart mate!

Sanded to 120 grit to give a good key. Check out my other video, showing the pouring process at the end: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bJ59q62KzLTZcnk.html

Very so I've heard

Yes you can do that too. It may sand at a different rate to the concrete and give a skippy different effect. You would need to fill the holes first and make sure the whole surface is completely flat before doing the pour otherwise the when the epoxy shrinks back very slightly you will see dips where the holes are.

Approx 3-4 days

Yes, 100% it must be as smooth as possible. You can use 1to1 water and cement :)

@@MattHutton thanks Matt where do you buy your resin

Wilson Ross hello mate it’s the glass cast self levelling resin in the description of this video :)

Yeah should do, fairly quickly. But I’m not 100%. I never actually watched them. Usually leave it overnight and don’t come back in the room again, to avoid kicking up dust into the air.

Hey Scott, I have actually asked the manufacturer and they don’t recommend it for outdoors. I do however know of a very good product for concrete and is also used on the bottoms of superyatchs, it called Durepox high performance clear is very durable and does not yellow over time as it’s and epoxy-urethane. The only catch is it’s not food safe, as it continue to release VOCs for a few months even after it is cured. But as long as you use plates and don’t place food directly on it, you’re all good. It’s also not self levelling and self degassing you will need to apply several coats, sand it flat and polish it to a high gloss shine. Unless you’re spraying it, but I wouldn’t recommend as it’s very toxic to breath in.

Thanks Matt Thanks for that I was just looking at another video you have done with the h seal, does that change the appearance of the concrete slightly? Cheers 👍🏼

@@scotthallam3793 that h-seal sealer keeps the same look of the concrete and does not darken the colour, so it’s a more natural look. It gives it a more consistent matt sort of shimmer. Epoxy or any other gloss topical sealer usually darken the concrete a little and give it more of a wet look. :) you can see the difference in my latest video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bJ59q62KzLTZcnk.html I hope that helps.

Smooth but hard. Almost like glass.

@@MattHutton thanks for the answer. I made a countertop and want to make it less abrasive to the touch because it can easily tear at skin hard just by touching and draw blood if you hit it. Is epoxy the right idea? Is there anything else that can give it a rubbery feel for the bottom to make it easy to hold

@@kevinm5385 epoxy will give it a very smooth plastic feel. If you’re having trouble with the bottle edge you could try rounding it a little with some coarse wet and dry paper. Is it just the bottom edge you have an issue with?

@@MattHutton yeah i was hoping to get an idea on how to get the overall concrete pretty smooth and i think i do now thanks again. the edges arent too bad its mainly the whole bottom side that got flipped since it had no base as it cured i want to epoxy that side as well will it be easy? (Do i need to sand the bumps and all)

@@kevinm5385 okay no problem, yes you need to sand it smooth if you have any holes they can be filled with cement slurry. This is just cement and water mixed together to make a thick paste. After this is all sanded and dry, you can just carefully paint the epoxy on the sides. I’m confused at why you just want to epoxy the side though? Your sides will be glossy and the top will be matt finish. Is that what your after?

40N

@@MattHutton oh.. didn't know you responded.. thanks.!

@@MattHutton ok.. I mean ,what type of concrete did you use to cast the actual counter top? I'm assuming the slurry mix will be 40n.. right? or did you use 40 n masonary mix for the entire job? thanks alot man..

Yeah it’s fairly easy there are lots of videos on KZfaq on how to do it :)

Matt Hutton ah I see in your video you mentioned you casted it. Do you still like the look of epoxy over concrete?

Reply Media yeah it looks awesome with a gloss finish :) I highly recommend it!

😂 cheers , you’re welcome to come around if you like

@@MattHutton i am on my way from South Africa ,,dude like seriously cause I was trying to concentrate but your camera is all over ,, I end up not watching the whole thing .. Any way wish you the best 😙

kahlom9 M thanks for the feedback mate :)

@@MattHutton you welcome ..

Hello mate been used in my kitchen for 10 months now and no peeling. I used a 240grit finish to give it a good key. before the pour.

Any other tips?

@@MattHutton if that's sarcasm fine. If not then I would recommend that you show the actual glaze scraping that you're doing and also how you use the brush along the edges to create the puddle or spill over effect without drag.

@@dr.p3548 I’ve got another video coming up off this process, so will make sure to include it :)