Bonjour Paul Je regarde vos vidéos depuis la France. J'admire votre travail et j'aime votre personnage sympathique et pédagogue. J'apprends beaucoup grâce à vous ! Bravo et merci. Alain.

Glad your back to making content. Cheers from New Mexico USA

Hi Paul great your back again,have a great New Year greetings from the Dominican Republic.

For the tapered cylinder you can tilt the roller by raising one end until the glass plane is flat. Happy new year!

The mirror thing is because you have one more reduction gear efficiently compared to the flatbed setup so the laser are working with a reversed direction. Buddy who is a glassblower uses an inverse cone on the foot side as a driver (if the foot is the heavy side) and different sized pins on the mouth to compensate for conical glasses. It's a bit slower for detailed work since the glass isn't held rigidly, but laies inside the inversed cone. A roller setup is better for that type of work but it is doable.

Hi, Paul. Great stuff here! Bloody marvelous mate. As the older glass professionals moved on, it's left a major need within traditional glass, glazing and related businesses. I'm an old glazier and expat Brit now settled in Canada. We have a small stained glass business in Ontario and, with most of the old art-glass businesses now closed, we are one of the only traditional commission / restoration companies around. With the near death of stained glass, art glass, brilliant cutting etc, I feel it's a great time to expand and revive some of the old traditional ways. I get asked for pub mirrors and the like a couple of times a week at least Paul, so I'm going to expand and start sandblasting again. I do have a question though if you would be so kind. I'm looking at lasers right now, but I'm told that lasers are still not going to offer me the quality of a good old fashioned sandblasted finish. Suggestions in a group I found, are leaning towards having the laser cutting the 'not vinyl' (masking material) and then sandblast the remainder. I.e., the laser will cut out the design and I'd then finish it with sandblasting. Is this advice solid mate? I'm looking at designing and producing mirrors and clear glass with logos, pub names etc. Any advice you can offer would be very much appreciated, Paul. Again, great to see you using those traditional methods, mixed with contemporary technology. It's crazy not to really, so long as your core business product remains traditional. Wonderful work mate! I've been at this 42 years now and still love every second in the shop. Unfortunately, I'm also a glass nerd and glass & glazing consultant for high rise exterior glass facades and curtain wall. While still in the industry and executing and managing extremely rewarding builds, international airports, stadiums, 150+ level towers, it's so bloody souless!! Just another few years in the grind and the stained glass business here should have gained enough traction to take over and into retirement. Anyway, any advice would be welcomed Paul, thank you! By the way....KEEP PRODUCING!!! Cheers.

Missed you. Glad to see you. Hope this year is the best!

My understanding is that the laser has to heat up the glass enough to cause micro-fractures. But clear glass allows too much of the laser’s power to pass through without interacting with the glass. The application tape is opaque. The laser heats the tape close enough to the glass for the fracture to happen. You can use other things - like tempera paint or dedicated laser etching spray for the same reason.

Can glue chipping be achieved using a diode laser ?

Привет, Пол! Рад видеть тебя! С Новым Годом и Рождеством! Спасибо за видео. Тебе не жалко свой лазер? Ведь проще использовать матирующую пасту или пескоструй под данные задачи.