Set out similar to tiling

My late father was a plumber, I have lots of respect for you all!! many Plumbers including my late Dad are really good at carpentry!! thank you for watching and commenting!

perfect planning prevents p*ss poor performance :)

Glad you think so!

If i was nearby i would offer to come and clear that hardcore into a skip in payment for the knowledge you have given... so sorry im too far away :)

Thanks 🔥

Hi Scott, yep it can be secret fixed with some care, personally I like a double fixing on each batten, also with the secret fixing to start in the centre like I demonstrate in the video is not possible unless you create a loose tongue for the centre section!!

Thank you!!!!

Have a look at the video in this cladding series where I focus on the ventilation and cross battening

We do a mixture of both!!!

Yes it will naturally silver down in direct daylight and sunlight to varying degrees favoured by many designers

No it is super durable and can be fitted and forgotten!!

All depends on the wood use, some go various light shades of grey over time.

I mention secret nailing in the video and my decision not to, its during the early stages of the video

Hi and thanks for your reply. I'm keen to hear your views on this and have watched again but cannot find the section in this video. Do you have the time in the video when you explained this? Thanks again @@ukconstruction

Yes, ventilation. He covers that in the last couple of videos.

Always use stainless steel! Galvanised nails will corrode and leave horrible black run marks at every nail hole, very quickly too!!

" Drop edge then"? You mean drip edge? The 15° angle cut on the bottom creates the drip edge.

@@gbwildlifeuk8269 you know what I meant 😁

Hi Darren, it is indeed ripped from the full lengths there is a video about them here at my channel

I really appreciate the prompt response. Thank you for the information. I'll look that video up. Cheers

The cladding will not allow water through and as the batten is cross battened the air flows from the sides and the top has it continuous vent

@@ukconstruction most detailing of door and windows I've seen has flashing lapped into the breather sheet to direct water out of the cladding and avoid it pooling on the top of the door or window frame. Maybe I am misunderstanding and I think with the cladding and venting as you mention it would not be an issue but water would sit on the frame top for some time until evaporated wouldn't it? I am looking at cladding for my build (horizontal) and trying to work out what is acceptable to building control. Great vid 😁

You can walk on that type of insulation

There is a video at the beginning of this series that explains the ventilation

In that video you explain, but how does it work above the door/window? I'm sure you have it all worked out, but I can't see in this video how the air is let in at the bottom side above the window. Another question about closing the airgaps for insects. You explain the mesh profile at the bottom, but what do you do at the top? I ask because I often struggle with this. I seems to me that there are often openings not so easy to close, which leads to ask, just how meticulous does one need to be?@@ukconstruction

well this is my adapted insulation saw!! I could not find my current sharp saw!! so great observation!!!

It depends on the number of fixings the spacing of the battens etc we are using a 50mm first quality stainless steel brad two on each fixing point and about 400mm between battens so in essence we are over fixing the material this particular cladding can be secret nailed and in that event you would have half the number it is then when a 16g would be essential

It's starts it's life as a standard Redwood prior to the thermowood process

Hi Dave, this is a 18 gauge with a 50mm stainless steel brad, we are fixing at 450mm centres and double on each fixing point, so its fairly well engineered and will easily do the job of holding the cladding perfectly

@@ukconstruction If we were putting cladding on like that in Oz. The requirement would be 50mm bullets. Lost heads to you. I have several 18 gauge nailers. Never used them on anything more than internal trim. If you think back to what you would have used in the days of hammers. Minimum of an 1 1/2 Oval. Probably actually a lost head. So just because it is a gun. How do we drop to a tiny brad from a solid nail. You try and remove timber nailed with lost heads. Compared to 18 gauge pins. You can pull the latter off with bare hands. Does the manufacturer have a minimum nailing requirement. I have never read one that mentions brads. Your work is always superb. Attention to detail, second to none. But lost on 18 gauge trim nails used on external cladding.

I have used the IM65 with a 63mm stainless steel brad mostly my counter batten is no more than 450mm centres, if this is your summer house and the material is a standard ex 25mm board then this is perfect, thermowood is really stable and will not move once fitted

@ukconstruction Thank you for taking the time to reply. Yes I've counterbattoned at 450 centres, but have bought 50mm brads, I'll change them to 63mm. Thank you for your guidance 👍

That’s what I’m thinking?😬 won’t it all pop off when the wood starts to work?

Real life on a job!

Yes I am loosely connected to Matts channel through a couple of mutual connections and do communicate with them from time to time!! it would be good