What he meant was “I don’t want to fix it”. Glad you found this. I just broke Both handles within a week.

Well I'm back here 2 years later. The door handle I put in 2 years ago broke again! This time the plastic sheared. The metal bracket is holding strong, though!

Raghunandan Kempanna always Check at auto wreckers for parts. Cheaper and usually available

Tim Giesbrecht Where you able to find the dimensions ? Thanks

I am also wondering on the dimensions

Brian: I just did this repair today. I used a piece of metal about 9/16" wide by 2" long. I ground the dish shape in so there was about 7/16" remaining. I found the best way to get the holes accurate is to use the door handle as the pattern. I did it a little different than the video....after taking the panel off, I also took off the inside handle...there are 3 (or 4?) hex head screws (10mm I think) and 2 T20 screws holding it on. I disconnected the wires for window/seat heat. I also took off the locking rod from the handle, but in hindsight, it really wasn't necessary, but it did allow more room to work by having the handle moved well out of the way. To do that, I moved the locking bar so that it swung outside the mechanism where I could grasp hold of it, and then popped the locking plastic catch off the bar and popping the bar free of the handle mechanism. Here's the important part I learned after the fact....to access the 8mm hex heads that hold the outside handle on, take off the black plastic tape covering the hole under the inside handle. I tried for a long time to access them through the big plugged hole...but if you take the tape off, you get a direct shot at the screw heads. Be careful not to drop the screws into the door...I dropped the metal repair piece and was lucky enough to have a good magnet I "borrowed" from my wife's refrigerator magnet collection, taped it to a yardstick, and fished it out on the magnet. It worked, but I'd not recommend this just for sport....it could have not been so easy! After you carefully remove the front screws, take out the back ones too. You have to manually operate the handle to get the cam piece out of the front...and after the front piece is out, the rear piece rotates outward and the handle comes free. I popped off the pull cable stop piece and the cable end from the handle so I had the entire handle to work on in the shop. I fabricated the repair piece and test fit it in the shop. I'd recommend doing this so you get the idea how the handle moves and how you can insert the repair piece from the inside of the door, all by feel. TO reassemble, I put the handle back in the door, then CAREFULLY operated the latch from the outside and slid the repair piece into position. When you release the latch, it holds the piece in position so you can put the screws back in (through the untaped hole...). After tightening all screws, I attached the pull cable, snapped the cable stop piece back into position...and then I tried the handle. Voila...it worked! By hand, and with the power actuator. Everything else is in reverse....and, whether it needed to be or not, I used electrical tape to close up the hole in the door...and put a couple of pieces on the backside to stick to the tape to make it secure. All in all, if I'd known it was as straight forward, I would have taken a few more minutes and made a video, but hindsight is 20/20.... Good luck. (in the end, I had no pieces left over, everything worked, and the plastic inner door panel snapped back into all the holes perfectly). I'd say this saved a couple hundred dollars...and, shame on Chrysler for such a chintzy design in the first place. For less than a penny, it could have been done right in the first place. Let me know if you have any questions...

Michael Weil Thanks. Much appreciated.