Thanks man, that is awesome!

until u fuck up something and the bill will be bigger

Yes a threaded coupling would have made sense. The old valve lasted 18 years so hopefully the new valve lasts at least that long. Then I will be too old to care about it. LOL! And you are about the 100th person to tell me I put the Teflon tape on the wrong way (and that I didn't need to put it on that joint at all, which I agree with). I think that is a complete myth, unless i had put the tape on super loose and left the end of the tape flapping in the wind. I am seriously thinking about making a video where I wrap Teflon tape on a threaded pipe joint in the wrong way, on purpose, put the joint under pressure to see if it leaks, and repeat the test 25 times. I'm pretty sure I would have a hard time getting it to leak at all.

I'm glad the video helped! Why are you tackling the other two bathrooms, are they leaking also?

Lee McNeil, no the other bathrooms are not leaking yet. But I’m thinking preventive maintenance-Our water is hard and inexpensive contractor materials corrode fast. My house is only 4-yrs young and we’ve had to replace all three bathroom faucets and two shower cartridges. I don’t want to wait until the leaks start. Your thoughts?

That's great to hear. Thank you!

Thanks man! I really like hearing this.

Thanks!

Glad I could help!

Get 'er Done!

I'm here for you bro!

Valid point, but I'm pretty sure the chances of that happening are pretty slim. I mean, sure it's possible, but I can't imagine how you could apply the Teflon tape so badly and loosely that it would unravel just by screwing on the fitting on, but I guess it could happen.

@All along the Watchtower. Neither of you are correct so far, and it's been almost 3 years since I did that repair. I won't hold my breath waiting for it to leak, I'll tell you that much.

@@LeeMcNeil It seems you won the argument. The one guy erased his comment in shame, grabbed his ball and went home. 🥺🤭

@@Allison_Chaynes Yeah, I get a lot of hate from plumbers about this video. If they think this is taking business away from them, then they need to move. You can't find a plumber around here unless you're ready to shell out some serious cash.

I accidentally applied mine in a clockwise position, 😂.

Yes those are probably better valves. I'm not sure why most supply stops use this type of valve.

This is why plumbers lay so much hate on me for this video. Good luck and let me know how it turns out.

That's what its here for. I'm glad it helped you out. Thanks!

You may want to try to reuse the part of the valve that is attached to the pipe by unscrewing the valve from the fitting and screwing a new valve on in its place. The old valve is probably the part that's leaking and it's probably something I should have tried when I fixed this valve.

You should have a man do this type of repair for you. Do you smell or something?

Yeah it's getting harder and harder to do this stuff as I get older.

Glad it was helpful!

That sounds like your flexible pipe connection from your shut off valve to the fixture. That is a pretty easy thing to replace. Make sure you use braided steel lines for your replacement (or soft copper), not rubber or plastic.

I see no reason to pay extra for a compression type fitting when glue would work better. I've seen compression fittings fail but never a glued joint. You are right about the Teflon tape though, but it doesn't hurt to give a second line of defense if the gasket leaks. I think the direction you put the tape on doesn't matter either unless you put the tape on way too loose.

@@LeeMcNeil Wrong again hack

How do you remove the compression shut off valve? To install a valve like the one he installed in this video??

@@mrchillpill8625 If it was installed on cpvc, then my guess it (compression ring) would probably be eaisly removed. For copper, it can be hard to remove, so a tool like this comes in handy ...kzfaq.info/get/bejne/r5aZntSruOCRdIU.html

I think he is making the point that I did not need to cut the pipe because I could have just attached a new valve with the compression fitting that was already on the pipe. And he is correct if the leak was coming from the valve and not the fitting, and it might have saved me around 15 minutes of time. But I wasn't sure where the leak was coming from, so I just replace the valve and fitting together.

1. I live in Florida and we use CPVC in commercial applications all the time, so it is more than adequate for the job. This house was re-piped with CPVC 20 years ago and all of it is routed right through my attic space, which is insulated at the bottom chord of the truss, so it gets hot AF up there, and I've had no problems with it at all. I agree it isn't as good of a material as copper, but re-piping with copper piping would have cost twice as much, if not more. 2. I've only seen plumbers crack on overweight male plumbers, never on a skinny female plumber. But then again, I don't remember ever seeing a skinny female plumber. 3. A little nit-picky, but I'll agree. 4. Holding it until the glue set. I know 30 seconds is a little overkill, but the intended audience will be mostly amateurs so I'll admit to being conservative here. 5. Yes but back to the audience comment above. Plus the fact that some people watching this video may try to use a different type of cement because that's the only thing available or whatever reason.

If you don't have enough pipe sticking out of the wall you can just glue a coupling and another piece of pipe on it.

@@LeeMcNeil you might not have enough room for a coupling. Also, that orange lava glue is 1 step, you don’t have to prime it.

Thanks!

That's what I'm here for!

You can do it!

Thanks!

Good question. As I understand it, the PVC and CPVC cement actually fuse the plastic pipe and fitting together. The primer softens the plastic before you apply the cement, so theoretically you would get a stronger joint. I just did some research and found this www.plumbingsupply.com/the-great-pvc-primer-debate.html. They tested PVC pipe cement joints to failure with primed and unprimed joints, and it showed the primed joints were actually weaker. But the maximum cure time they tested was 24 hours. Who knows if the unprimed joints would be weaker over a long period of time. One thing to note, primer is required by code in many places, that is why it's dyed purple so the inspector can tell the joint was primed before the cement was applied.

I'm happy I was able to help.

Yes people have commented about the thread tape not being required, but some will then go into a long lecture about how it's going to leak and how I don't know what I am doing - so thanks for not doing that. It's been a year and a half since I made that repair and it's still good, so I am pretty sure it doesn't hurt anything.

@@LeeMcNeil I'm sorry to hear that some people reply that way. I didn't see those replies and just wanted to put that info out there for those who don't know. This way someone isn't questioning why they don't have thread tape on their valves or conversely go out and buy thread tape they don't need. Since it hasn't leaked, I'd say you did it right.

Doesn't hurt to use a little pipe tape or dope despite the rubber gaskets than are now coming installed in new supply hoses. Just an extra precaution. Frankly, I use pipe dope.

​@@PatrickFDolanI put dope on everything. I know I don't have to but I don't have to wear pants either but I do. Sometimes, I use tape and dope. Belt and suspenders.

It sounds like it, but copper pipe only turns green when it oxidizes - which it shouldn't be doing inside your wall, unless it's getting wet some how.

It would have been simpler to take the supply lines off the valve than to cut the pipe.

@@LeeMcNeil Lee I agree, my point is that the shutoff didn't need to be removed.

The hole around the pipe was way too big to caulk unless I wanted to go out and buy some backer rod, so it got foamed. I probably could shave the extra foam off so the escutcheon covers it completely, except I don't care. And the base of the water closet is caulked perfectly, so I'm not sure where you're trying to go with that nonsense.

Yes several people have told me that. I had never heard that Teflon tape needs to be put on certain direction. I guess because if you put it on the wrong way, it would be possible for the tape to some how unwrap itself from the threads when you put the threaded fitting on. But I can't imagine how it would be able to unwrap itself like that unless the tape was poorly wrapped or loose.

@@LeeMcNeil yeah it's the same idea as if your wiring a receptacle with the wire twisting clockwise so it doesn't un wrap. I think its a precaution for pipe fittings and your probably fine.

I noticed that too ... we always wrap clockwise to avoid slip at top end . Great tutorial for diy though and save $$$ .

@@LeeMcNeil All professionals know this. It's usually common sense as well

Just looking through the comments to see if anyone else noticed that he wrapped the tape the wrong way. Other than that he did a great job!

You are correct.

Maybe, but it's not leaking. Several people said I didn't even need it at that location, which is probably right.

@@LeeMcNeil Not maybe. It's the wrong way to do this job

Yes you could probably reuse the fitting, but only if you determine that your leak isn't coming from the fitting itself.

Not exactly. The cutting of the pipe would be the same but you need to get a valve with a different fitting because you can't glue copper. You need to either use a compression fitting or solder it, and I would suggest using a compression fitting unless you've got the equipment and experience to solder copper fittings. Several comments have suggested using something called a Sharkbite fitting, which is similar to a compression fitting, but has teeth that bite onto the outside of the copper (or CPVC) pipe when you tighten it, which gives it more strength to keep it from coming off under pressure. I don't have any experience with those but they seem pretty popular.

That works too.

The one I took off I believe had a compression washer but not a regular washer.

I had never heard of those so I had to look them up. That is a pretty cool fitting but I still would have had to cut the pipe to put a valve on. But if someone ever had to replace it again, they wouldn't have to cut the pipe. Hopefully it won't be me doing it, but whoever does it would probably cut the pipe anyway because they wouldn't necessarily know that it was a removable fitting. Hell, even if it was me, I would cut it because it will be 15 years from now and I would have forgotten. LOL!

Lee McNeil you’re a fucking idiot!! Just take the old one and put new one! If you had a acorr cut value! I can see cutting the line!

@@LeeMcNeil 'I had never heard of those...' Idiots like you make videos that can cause more harm than good. At least do the research!!!

​ CauseAndEffect and Antoine Dorsey - I've been doing construction for close to 40 years now, and I'm pretty damn sure that I've forgotten more about this stuff than you two jackasses will ever know. If you're both worried about your plumbing business taking a hit because of this video, then I suggest you move to Florida because you can't hardly find a plumber down here.

RUDE! Hey, check out some videos on spelling!

I maybe could have done that but I thought it best to replace the whole thing. It's not that much more work and you don't have to worry if the new compression ring mates right with the the existing fitting. I had a compression fitting fail on me at my first house and luckily someone was there to shut off the water or the whole place would have flooded. So I take a conservative approach to all plumbing repairs I make to my house.

If you know where your water meter is located, there will very likely be a valve there that will shut the water off to your house. If you don't know where it's located, you can contact your utility company to see if they can tell you where it is.

Around here (Florida to be exact) I would expect to pay around $100 for a plumber to do this.

I have a friend here in Orlando who grew up there. Do you know Alfredo Barrott? He is the kind of guy who seems to know everyone, so there might be a chance that you do too.

The valve comes in two pieces, one is the fitting that glues onto the pipe and it connects to the actual valve at a compression fitting. If your existing valve is leaking at valve piece itself, and the fitting is not leaking, you probably could just install the valve half of a new valve to the existing fitting without cutting the pipe. It's worth a shot. And CPVC doesn't need to be primed before you apply the glue, but it doesn't hurt. You will not be able to take off the glued fitting without cutting the pipe, no matter whether you prime it or not.

Thanks so much for the follow up. In my case, the leak is happening where the pipe itself meets the fitting. Confirming - basically there’s no tool pull it out? We already don’t have much pipe left - what would be our options?

@@bch6707 You might be able to pull a little more pipe out of the wall just a bit, but only if the pipe isn't strapped to a stud near where the pipe penetrates the wall (you are basically bending the pipe inside the wall cavity). There isn't a dedicated tool to pull on the pipe, but I think your fingers would work fine for that. You could use a needle nose vise grip to lightly clamp onto the pipe right at the wall after you pull a bit, which will keep the pipe held in place until you get the new valve installed, then release the vise grip when complete. If you can't pull it out from the wall at all, you will probably need to open up the wall just enough for you to cut the valve off, then install a coupling with a short piece of pipe to extend it.

To add to this, I would go ahead and put the new valve onto the existing fitting and see if that stops the leak. It may not, but it's worth a shot because it will save you some work if it does.

Unfortunately, I think you would have to open up the wall, put a coupling on the pipe and extend it back out. You might be able to do it with a small enough hole in the wall that you can cover it up with an escutcheon ring around the pipe.

@@LeeMcNeil Thanks so much Lee for your prompt response, I appreciated it.

@@LeeMcNeil All you have to do is unscrew the vale from the female adapter.

@@joebal9044 Unless the female adapter is where your leak is.

@@LeeMcNeil True, but that rarely happens.

The pipe I was connecting to is CPVC so the coupling was glued and there was no way to replace the entire fitting without cutting it off. In hindsight, I could have left the coupling and just replaced the part of the fitting downstream of the coupler, except I wasn't entirely sure where the leak was coming from on the valve, so I just cut the entire thing off and replaced it.

It sounds like your supply line fitting is leaking. It's hard to know without seeing it though.

I Would rather use the way he did it to be honest, ive seen many people use sharkbite and after about a year or so it started with a drip or a leak, not saying they don't work but i don't trust them really.

Yes I would not trust them. They are stupidly overpriced and really, what's the advantage of using them anyway? There are a lot of spammer pushing those things in my comments for some reason, and that alone is a great reason not to use them.

​@@tmaddock71I've been using sharkbite for years. Never had a problem part any part failure... I like the 1/4 turn valve. I've had one blow off but that was because I didn't seat it properly and it happened as soon as I pressurized it so I quickly sorted it. Thanks.

Well, if your leak is coming from the valve itself, you could try to just attach a new valve to the existing valve fitting (which I probably could have done here to be honest). If you need to replace the whole valve and you don't have enough room to put a pipe cutter on the pipe, you could try a hack saw blade. If your valve is too close to even do that, unfortunately you will have to cut a hole in the wall. If you have a regular drywall wall, it will be pretty easy to patch. But if you have tile on the wall like I do, you will have to carefully remove a few tiles and save them. I would use a an oscillating multi-tool with a diamond blade to dig the grout lines out and try to work the tool behind the tile to pop it off the wall. Then cut the drywall behind it to extend the pipe, patch the drywall, then reinstall and grout the tiles back into place.

@@LeeMcNeil Excellent Reply and feedback!! Thank You Tremendously!!😇🙏

Yes the valve doesn't have to be pointing up, or any direction. Just make sure you turn off the water and tighten the valve back up before you turn the water on again.

Lee McNeil worked like a charm! Thanks 🙏

A few people have mentioned those fittings but I don't have any experience using them. This joint won't fail over time any faster than the rest of all the other plumbing joints in my house, so it will be fine.

​@@LeeMcNeilprobably true. I just like slip on and forget.

​@@LeeMcNeiljust make sure the slip valve seats all the way down. Sometimes there's not enough stub out left that make slip valves harder to work with. I might use a traditional valve then because is don't want to push too hard on cpvc. Might cause a crack somewhere behind the wall. You did it right, just differently.

Yes you can probably do that if your leak isn't at the fitting itself. It's worth a try. If it's still leaking, you can still cut off the fitting, even if it's really close to the wall, then put a coupling and a small (3" or so) pipe extension and put the new valve fitting on the extended pipe.

I was never comfortable with compression fittings. I had one fail at my house about 20 years ago. Luckily there was someone at home who could shut off the water.

I don't think a standard copper compression fitting designed for copper pipe should be used on CPVC , but from what I understand there are compression fittings made specifically for CPVC pipe. I've also had some people comment about a product called a Shark Bite fitting that looks like it might work. Personally wouldn't use one if I could avoid it. If you do, buy your fittings at a real plumbing supply house as opposed to a big box store. You probably have a better chance of getting advice from someone who knows what they are talking about there. Not that there aren't competent people at Lowe's or Home Depot, but there are a few who aren't.

@@LeeMcNeil Thank you so much Lee for your time.

You are right, I wasn't thinking when I put it on, but I am pretty sure the danger of making it leak is be pretty slim, unless there was way too much tape on the threads.

@@LeeMcNeil 👍

Yes it's CPVC plastic piping so it has to be glued.

That wouldn't cause a leak but if it you want to make it look better you could use a wire brush and some soap and water on it.

Oh yeah.

Teflon the wrong what?

@@LeeMcNeil !WRONG WAY?😂😂😂😂

@@LeeMcNeil The wrong way

You could put a coupling on the existing stub out, then extend another short piece of pipe to the coupling. You may need to open up the hole in the wall a little to get the coupling on the pipe if the wall opening is tight around the pipe.

I don't know but it sounds like it isn't glued correctly or the compression fitting isn't tightened up enough.

You know I had never heard of that but apparently it's Ok not to use the primer with CPVC. Thanks for pointing that out.

U do need the purple primer and cleaner that cleans the pipe and helps seal it it does help a lot to prime it before cement inside and out

@@billybob042665 It is the future, because I made this repair 1-1/2 years ago. And news flash, it isn't leaking.

In many states if you don't use the purple primer, you will fail a plumbing inspection.

Rich as HELL!!

No. First you should check your shut off valve to make sure it's closed completely. Once you're sure the shutoff is closed, then you need to make sure the pipe is completely dry before gluing it. Try pushing the cut end of the pipe sticking out of the wall downward. That will make whatever water is left in the pipe drain out. Then twist a paper towel up until it's in the shape of a stick and shove it into the pipe and leave it there for a while. If the paper towel becomes completely soaked, then replace it. You don't have to get all the water out of the pipe, just enough to keep it from coming out of the pipe while you are trying to glue it.