For 3 years, I have endured rubbing front disc brake. Lots of useless advise led me to change: pads; rotor; mineral oil and bleed; calliper. My local bike shop couldn't resolve (in fact made it worse!). I even bought new wheels (not because of rubbing) which had the exact same problem. 3 minutes of watching your video, and I thought 'heck, let's try this'. 15 minutes later, problem was resolved! Thank you so much for such a clear, simple solution!

Brilliant! Going nuts trying to fix my dragging brake pads. Tried to exercise the pistons again and again to no avail. Removing excess fluid solved the problem immediately. In hindsight, the brake lever was very tight and a sign that the fluid had expanded. I don't know why other videos aren't showing this, but thanks a bunch.

This is the literally one and only video dealing with this issue. Very helpful and saved my weekend!

Great video. So many videos out there that basically teach you to center your brakes. this one helped me diagnose and fix a rubbing pad that was driving me crazy. thank you!!!!

Great, video! It is amazing how many cycling channels do not cover this. They generally just talk about a bent disk or centering the caliper. again great video, very informative and simple to follow.

Thank you so much Clint. After trying out about 20 other videos all of which suggested the same solutions of straightening the caliper, truing the rotors etc etc, yours was the first and only one that suggested relieving a few drops of mineral oil from the system. This solution immediately solved the problem on my Canyon CFR running Campag Super Record EPS and it was quick and easy for me to do. Quality content from knowledgeable people like yourself is hard to find out there in a sea of repetition and ineffective solutions purveyed by so many others. I’ve sent a super thanks your way. Thank you 🙏

4 years later and this video finally ended hours of frustration trying to get my caliper centered. Apparently my grx brakes were over pressurized despite following the shimano manual to the T. Thank you!

Top bloke. Just solved my irritating disk rub issue after viewing this vid.

The removal of a little brake fluid did the trick for me. Try first without pushing the pistons back, this was sufficient for me. Pushing the pistons back may reduce the breaking pressure too much.

Amazing! This video stopped me from having to go to my local bike shop pleading for help. Thank you so much for making this video short and sweet!

Thank you very much for the tip about too much pressure in the system. Had very little clearance on some new pads and was finding it very hard to get the calipers centred well enough to stop all rub. Just did as you said and bled off a little fluid and all is right with the world again.

As usual..concise and accurate information delivered thoroughly. Many thanks Clint. Greetings from The West of Ireland.

Huge thanks. I was trying to resolve brake squeal but after cleaning and scuffing the pads 3 times, I found the pistons were not moving equally. One was almost stuck. I guess the imbalance of piston pressure to the pads and rotor was causing the squealing. Followed your instructions and the piston eventually worked together in equal movement. Took it out for a test and voila. They no longer squeal.

Was a little intimidated working on hydraulic brakes for the first time, your video was to the point and very informative. Thanks! All working well now.

Thanks! Went from cool and dry, to warm and humid. Pads were DRAGGING this morning. Quick watch of this video and 20 mins later I was ready to roll! Thanks again! (note, wish i could have tipped more, but no option beyond $2)

Finally fixed after trying the last step of soaking up a small amount expanded of fluid. No more rubbing after centering, lubing the pistons, repeat, and repeat. Thanks!!

Relatively new Tarmac… tried everything… and the solution was your last step. Bleeding them a bit gave me enough gap to finally end the rubbing. Thanks!

The video addressed the issue I was having with a new bike build, which was excessive hydraulic fluid in my front brake line. Thank you Clint for your clear explanation!

Many thanks Clint for your excellent tutorial. I just loosened the bleed port screw and out flowed the brake fluid. I now enjoy no brake pad drag.

The Birzman Clam was a very useful nugget. Thank you Clint.

Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU!! I wish I would have watched this an hour earlier than I did.

Great video! One thing I would recommend is checking the rotor to make sure it is warped / bent. Just look straight down at it between the pads while spinning.

Thanks a lot for the excellent explanation and demonstration! I’ve got excessive pressure in my system , but I was afraid to open a bleeding port because I thought the whole bleeding process will then be required and I do not have tools or a good service shop where I live… so I fixed my brakes in a few seconds after watching this video 🤌 thanks!

Great one. I've seen tons of videos on how to do the first part but none of all this. Awesome

Had brake drag and was working on it for hours before your instruction. Thanks for making my ride drag free!

Thank you for your advice. 👏👏👍Saves me from madness. Tyre lever did the trick!

Gonna hit this again. Noticed you mentioned pushing them about 6x..haven't heard that before but have endless rubby and also squashy underpowered brakes (deore xt). Also been through the mill trying all options, convinced it was a stuck pad issue but only cycled them once or twice. ...I'll be back shortly (as big Clive would say)😄

Thank you! I tried everything to push disks between new pads after replacement. Was ready to mess with bleeding screws... So, you saved my sram breaks! :)

The tip about expansion of fluid was the ticket! Thanks!!

Fantastic, finally s.o. to cover this!

Thank you for posting this, clear and simple to follow and solved my brake problems.

Hoolee cow. He's talking about bicycles! I listened intently the first 50 seconds.

Brilliant video, right to the point ! Very well explained and shown ! Thank you so much, excess pressure was the problem for me, fixed thanks to you :)

Thank you for the video. It seems like something always needs to be tweaked on my MTB bikes. Always learning....

Brake bleed was the culprit. Thank you!

Very helpful. I have new Shimano XTs and rotors and they were dragging. I went thru you list of remedies and found loosening the mounts to center the rotor was the answer. I just flipped over the bike and spun the wheels to feel for vibration between the rotor and pads as I incrementally tightened the mounts., I had to do it by feel since they are so close I couldn't see the gap and clenching the brake levers down and retightening the mounts wasn't fixing it.

Great explanation and the tyre levers work a treat! I’ve just done it successfully in my Sram Code RSC. I previously popped out a piston in Sram Guide so your tip not to push the piston out more than 3 mm has saved me this time. Cheers 🤙🏽

Good vid thank you. I had to go thru this procedure after a buddy of mine decided to squeeze my left lever with the bike on the repair stand and the wheel removed....took a while to push the pistons back but the plastic levers did the biz.

You’re the man! This solved my issue.

i was replacing brake pads on sram apex 1 equipped bike, the pistons woudnt go all the way back, this fixed the problem :) thanks!

Thank you, Clint Gibbs!

That was very helpful

I might have a rear dragging on my hardtail 29er I need to scope out. Good timing

saved me a trip to the bikeshop! thanks!

DOT is awful for Florida, I really like the feel of SRAM brakes, but I won't run them because of of the extra hassle.

This technique worked perfectly. Saved me!

Great Info....Perfect timing for gravel ride tomorrow.

Great explaining about both scenarios. Very helpful. Tks

As usual your video is so informative you have save me a lot of mullah n frustration n time, more power to your show n stay healthy n safe alwayz

Thanks for the great video. I wish I could go out to the garage in T shirt and sandals and work on the bike...not happening here in Northwest Indiana.

thanks a lot! it fixed my problem, super helpful .

Exactly my problem - now I have the solution. Thanks a lot.

thanks you saved me lots of time and agony with this video!

Thanks! I had to lube up the piston and push it in and out until it slid smoothly and release the pressure in the tube a bit and that fixed it! Lol that sounded a bit wrong tho

thanks for that great explanation... greetings from Brazil.

Thank you SO much for this video, Clint. You are a cycling demi-God. Had a stuck piston and tried all the suggestions in other videos and nothing worked until i back-bled the system. Piston popped right back in. Question: I've obviously got water in the brake system now. Is that an indication to bleed the affected brake?

Unbelievably helpful. Thank you.

Thanks for this vid! Brand new Codes on my bike and the front brake was dragging ever so slightly. Took the pads out and pressed the pistons back in and voila! Problem solved!

My mtb has been sitting from just this issue. Went to put new pads on, and the new pads would rub the rotor. Not sure what I did, but when I let a little fluid out and I lost pressure in my brake lever. LBS will save the day!

Excellent video. Thanks for posting.

You are a life saver sir Clint 💪🤘🙏

Very helpful... I learn more stuff about the bike... thanks!

It was a very helpful video. Thank you sir!

if the piston is stuck, could it be from dirt? If so, i would assume you should clean the piston before pushing it back in.

Thanks

Great video. Thanks

This helped! Thanks.

Thanks for this Clint. Great info.

That was extremely helpful. Thanks a lot.

Very good information video

SUCH A GOOD VIDEO. THANK YOU. Sorry stuck on caps

Very helpful. Thanks for sharing.

Got it. Very informative!👍👍👍. Immediately subscribed.

Thank you, this is great information

Cool and useful video. I am curious about this little pad centering tool you show at the end. Can you provide a reference on it - brand, store, etc. Sounds useful to have.

Spot on thanks

Excellent advice!🇬🇧☺

Thank you for this great tutorial. I'm confused about you mentioned Di2 specific fluid. Doesn't the regular Shimano mineral oil works for Ultegra BR-R8070's?

Awesome video! worked for me

Brother, Thanks!!!

Thank you!!!

this really helped! thanks!

Great video, thank you.

Thanks!

Thanks Clint 👍🚒🇬🇧

Is it necessary to remove the brake pads? Seems like you can push in the pistons while the pads on still on. I have 2-piston Shimano XT brakes. And thank you for this.

Great video. Thank you. Are you using tyre levers because you do not have the dedicated tool to spread the pistons? I have this tool and it is actually made of metal. Is this the reason why you prefer to use plastic tyre lever?

Thank you ,my problem solve.

you ever have the issue where everything's centered perfect when spinning or riding straight but when turning or standing/climbing the wheeling rotor flex (while off the brakes) and the rotor pushes over into the pads (while they are still aligned perfectly)

THANK YOU!!!

Man I got a new rotors and new brake pads and I can’t stop them From rubbing not matter what I do. I got new rotors thicker one from trp 2.3mm and I’m wondering that probably my sram codes rsc don’t work out with the type of rotors 😊

Nice videos but there are other issues that you haven't covered. I had an issue with brand new Shimano brakes.The pads wouldn't stop dragging. After trying everything. I opened the bleed port on the lever and expanded the pistons outward. A little fluid was expelled but that did the trick. It was almost like it was overfilled.

I did this with my dot brakes and the pistons didn’t go back in. I would push one in and the other one would come out.

found this video after i did the same thing with my tektro brakes, where one piston was 100% stuck inside the caliper and refused to move unless I block another piston with some tool. Pretty annoying considering these are 100% new brakes. Took me something like 66 instead of 6 such procedures to get it working, at least for now.

great, did NOT know that but this vid is NOT helpfull for Mtb brake levers, sure calipers are the same but drop bar brake/shift levers are waaaaay different from straight bar mtb brake levers....BUT, now that i know what needs to be done i can find a Mtb specific diy vid😊❤

In the past i know you've mentioned you're not a fan of sram brakes at least in the front because the clearance is tight. Im finding this to be true as well. Would this procedure help with the tight clearance?

Is it possible to remove brake fluid?

I have a problem when i descend in the corners or when im climbing out of the saddle my brakes rub. When i push the bike on to one side and it "dings" and than the other side and "ding" again. I hope my explaning was good enough. Plz help

The problem is that new pads can be too thick

Also, could the thru axle adaptor end caps be the wrong size on the new Roval wheels? I just put my stock Vision front wheel in and it works fine