Thanks for the kind words.

Thank you.

This is why I checked the comments on this video in the first place, was wondering how many people did like instructed and ended up with air in their clutch hydraulic system causing tranny not to go into gear while engine is running, and from there ended up having to pull the entire master and attached slave hose in order to get the air out, but only after wasting hours/days plus a couple gallons of DOT3 on all the bogus bleeding methods which don’t involve removal of the master.. and all for a preventative maintenance fluid flush 😂

@@beergglsso what you’re saying is, if I got air in there on accident 😢 I gotta pull the whole hose to get the air out? Or I can gravity bleed it until it’s alright?

@@Torreystuckey Gotta pull the whole master cylinder and attached hose in order to position it prior to burping to get the air out. The push rod doesn’t come out of the master cylinder and removing it from its mounting location with the pushrod in place is a royal pain in the ass. Easiest thing to do to avoid the bleeding hassle is to just buy a pre-bled master, hose, and reservoir assembly. Pushrod gets inserted (never to be removed thereafter) into master cyl after mounting it in its place. If using old parts and bleeding system, look for the perfection automotive older guy youtube video for a good how to. There’s 2 from that channel on ranger clutch hyd system bleeding. If you got air in there there’s no other way to get it out, and I’ve tried every method from every video on this platform. Well I haven’t tried rolling the entire truck upside down but there’s always that.

@@beerggls appreciate it my guy! I might start with rolling the truck over at this point

@@Torreystuckey Lol. Well if you end up pulling the master cylinder and line to bleed it manually, it’s easier with the pushrod taken out of the master. The whole Internet says it’s impossible to remove that thing once inserted, because the new ones come with the pushrod separate and you insert after you install everything else. Once it clicks in, it’s in for good they say. I was able to get it out in five minutes with the end of an old spark plug wire and some welding pliers. The part that clicks on the top of the spark plug, I bent it out and shaped it up so it could be put around the pushrod shaft and pushed down into the hole to release the retaining claws down in there and pull the shaft out. The welding pliers have the perfect shaped part, used for gripping wire feed mig gun tips, to squeeze the spark plug connector around the shaft of the pushrod and form the metal nice and tight so it works.. this is only after using a Pilot brand pen cap and a small rubber O-ring to make a tool for removing the other end of the push rod from the pedal stud without breaking the clip. Had to cut the pen cap about 3/4 of an inch with a razor blade in an X shape down from the open end, heat up a nail and burn a small hole at the end of each cut so it doesn’t split the cap further, widen each cut slightly with a pair of fine scissors, cut a bit of the corners off of each of the four fingers made from the cuts, and the little rubber O-ring (or looped over rubber band) goes over the top of the pan cab to keep the fingers pushed together and get under the claws of the retainer clip. Mines a 1990 so it doesn’t have the plastic cage around the claws on the clip, in that case I’d probably try four little pieces of street sweeper rod or wiper blade guts to stick in there under the claws. Might not even need to come off at that end if you use the spark plug wire tool to get the plunger end off of the pushrod on the other end. At least on my year ranger, the next generation body style has the square hole for the master cylinder that you have to rotate the whole thing to get it out and I don’t know if there’s enough clearance to back it off of the pushrod while connected to the pedal still. And removing the connector from the transmission when unhooking the hydraulic line is also tricky. I used the provided cheesy Chinese wrench that comes with a harbor freight Central Pneumatic cheap cut off wheel to push the plastic release sleeve down into the connector and release the hose. Hint: you have to push in on the hose first before pushing the release collar down into the connector, and then jerk it out in one swift tug.

its just the step or shoulder that the resevoir has approximately in the middle - not an actual line that says FULL like most other resevoirs.

So??? Did it work???

@@tintdr unfortunately no, my slave is bad, getting it swapped soon (big oof)

How do you get the top 2 bolts off I cant seem to get to it

Yes, same email.I built my ecu from microsquirt module, there are many other ecu's that you can use, all depends on your budget.

Yes.

@@everydayirace Thank you

I get to them from up top with a wrench, or from the bottom with long extension and a swivel socket, but you have to lower rear of the transmission.

@@everydayirace I took the brace or whatever was holding it up by the drain and I still can't how big if extensions do I need

@@jasonboywitt10use 3/8 extensions and socket and you need about 3 feet of extensions swivel or wobble extensions work the best