Very good video, exactly the type of short, sharp, instructional film that makes You Tube worth having. Thank you.

JD - Thank you. I followed your method exactly to the tee and got it right the first time. Thanks so much. People like you make me stay on YT.

Short, sweet, and to the point. Great vid!

I'm really glad and proud of you to these videos will show you everything you need to know for the most part you don't necessarily need a career center to go to

Thank you, helpful, to the point w/o skipping any points. And it was clear💯 w channels

I'm the kind of person to realize I forgot the fitting after I already flared it haha

Nice job on your explanation. Many thanks.

What a how to suppose to be, straight to the point. You sir are a good man.

Great video thanks. Had my first one earlier and it worked out some trial an error. But watched here your tips and explanation spot on took my error crooked flare to factory flare. Nice to have handy and know how to use. I've had to many trips to advance or auto zone in the past that this $20 kit and knowledge would have saved so much time energy and money.

Best video! Simple and to the point

Thanks for your help in refreshing my memory, had the same tool as you but forgot how to use it!

Nice Job Thank You ... Right to the point !!!!

nailed it, just did this and fixed me r/r break line. i should say replaced it. two thumbs up...

Great video. I saw some where they dab a touch of lube on pointer part and are there kits you recommend that do both double and bubble?

As men, if we don't know the name of something, rest assured, we will make up a name for it and stick with it like it's the gospel.

Thanks so much, this was very helpful, I was able to do mine with no issues thanks to your video

Oops sorry wrong guy you're good bro. I realized on my break's that I only knew one kind of flare. I did it 5 time's still had a leak then just rigged it I gave looked up and found a lot of home work great work

Excellent video ! 👍🏻

Great video right to the point

Joel, I noticed the bubble flare you made doesn't have a flat edge to sit on the (usually metric) brake nut. All of the ones I've ever seen on a car do have that flat bottom such they look like a mushroom. I'm wondering does that matter? Is the copper/nickel soft enough to mold into shape in the fitting/connector? And what if you over tighten that dowel tool? If the bubble is kinda flattened (more disc like), again will it mold into the shape in the fitting/connector?

Mental note: Use flare wrenches next time I have to take out a wheel cylinder, so I don´t round the nut then have to buy a flaring kit and wait one more week for it to arrive just to finish with the brakes on my car lol, btw, thx man

Brilliant, thanks 😎👍

Where'd you get your bubble flaring tool kit from?

Thanks for not using a $350 flare kit

I do the first flare on the roll of tubing in case it doesn't form correct, then you don't waste tubing. After 20 years of flaring I noticed the angle on the flaring tool was buggered. It's easy to remove for dressing - don't drop the ball bearing!

Can I you please mentioned the other flaring box with red sticker,? thank you.

When do you use double flare vs bubble flare ? Application specific or are certain applications of standard/metric as fit

Us old drunks put drop-o-oil on cut wheel, flare die, and squisher threads.

Sweet dude

You need to hold the part still and show a close up. This will not suffice.

Everytime I do it it just slipped down it's stainless line tho

Can't get mine to look like that. Kind of a spiral effect. It's the single handed tool, I'm told it's supposed to be better!

With this type of line a cheaper flaring tool can be used with decent results... much softer metal easy to work with.

So would the first step in a double flare not work as a bubble flare?

So why would u use a double flare over a bubble flare? (Metric/non metric)

hey man you are skipping a vital (literally SAFTEY) step in any brake line flaring process...Chamfering a 45 degree angle after cutting the tube.

Mines keep bending before I can flare it. No matter how straight I start out

Need bench vise for this work

Loyd

I tried to get brake lines today for my century they rent the flaring tool at Parts Source. I don't know to if it is a metric flare or a standard double flare. The car takes metric wrenches thankx 4 the help. they don't sell them pre bent. shoulb b your next one I need 2 90 tz on a 6" line. Guarnteed I will kink it. can u heat up a brake line.. I hope this is not a stupid question. duuuu

Or use the hydraulic kit lol. Since I got it no going back as long as there is access

I had mine slipping off, the line was coated

Help what if I have a spring around my brake line

Buy a vise

I bought two kits like that = made 4 good flares and the rest are junk. You need a close up of the first flair.

I'm an old man in case you want to know. Nickel copper tubing? "it'll just squish around and eventually seat"? It will crack easily too. What a joke. 1. Coiled line won't flare straight because it's not straight to begin with, notice how he glossed over our actually looking at the flare. 2. Yes, it's more forgiving and easier to work with but much weaker than a steel line. NiCo line isn't hard to work with but it's soft, bends too easily. Just pull on it and see what happens. Or hit it with a wrench. Who's going to do that? You might be surprised.

noisy table,but good Job!

Forgot to put the fittings on before you flared. Common mistake.

all to slow buy a eastwood tool 10 times as fast

Fucking adds

I'm torn on this : spend $45 for line, fittings and basic flaring kit and do all my lines myself..... OR..... spend $400 for complete SS lines for a simple "plug and play" install. This isn't meant to be a joke. There's peace of mind that comes with spending extra to guarantee a simple and leak free install

Wrong!

Sae or metric doesn't matter..a flare is a flare!!!!

Maybe open the package before you record.....nicer on my nerves !

My experience with the so called double flare kit they sell at parts store's is . Sabatoge JUNK . The stem on the die is way too small and cannot center properly to do a good flare this garbage has been out there for 50 year's. The tool that can do this is 500$ plus