Spreading knowledge is like lighting a candle. Lighting a second candle from a first, does not diminish the first candles flame, there is just more now. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. - knowledge weighs nothing, carry all you can

I just went down the KZfaq rabbit hole on chimney cap replacement and this is by far the best video. Thanks!

What a great video. This man is incredibly skillful and incredibly generous for sharing his skills with us. It's refreshing to see someone who still excells in their field of work. There are too many underachievers out there nowadays. Maybe it's just because I'm getting old, but nowadays truly skilled craftsmen are few and far betweem. I learned a lot from this video.

This is the best process breakdown, tips and tricks video for putting a pro crown on a stone chimney out there. The video was extremely well done and the commentary was natural, funny and always on point.

What a pleasure it is to watch someone that knows EXACTLY what they’re doing, and understands all the subtle nuances of obtaining a durable outcome…

I love when I find a pro who does quality work and can explain his work efficiently in detail. Thanks so much!

Been doing this myself for over 25 years and the drill thing is genius 😅 il try this on the next one 😂

Rarely comment, but you just straight up deserve to know how good of a video this is. Most DIY videos i watch I'm learning from some crusty old dude who doesn't care about his work, you legitimately seem to care! Masonry is becoming a lost art and your guys do it proud. Wish you were closer to WA state to do my mess of a chimney!

This is a great video! You covered every single thing (and then some) of how I will be forming my cap on a brick chimney. Incredible. Years of wisdom and experience in a relatively short video. Thank you!!

This whole system is brilliant! And that’s coming from a mason on 18 years! Can’t wait to use this system!

Thank you very much for the video for your professionalism and for donating Al your time and showing your experience to us we have a better vision of doing a good job thank you very much

A great teaching vid from a guy who clearly knows what he's doing. While I try to never turn away work to do myself, the shear expertice demonstrated the value of hiring top pros like this guy.

This is one of the best how to videos I've seen! I'd hire this guy in a second.

Excellent video Roger! Another use for the impact drill, liked that.

This guy totally rocks! Tons of tricks! So helpful!

What a great video. I really like your style, how you explain things and the details you go into. I have a cracked chimney crown/cap here with my stone-built cottage in Scotland and this was really amazingly helpful to get me clued on how I might approach it. I never sign into KZfaq, but felt compelled to say thanks to you for taking the time to put this video togther. Rock on...

This is just wonderful. Really thorough and clear. Thank you so much.

Really great video. Just shows what a little care and attention can give in results. Beautiful job and very clear in every stage.

AWESOME video. Now ready to go fix our chimney.

This is a really great video for people. I especially like the fiberglass with mortar and hammer drill trick. Those will both come in handy for us. We tried a few different ways of creating a drip edge. Our favorite way does take a touch of practice, but when you get it, we love it. The verticle board flush with the height of the base, okay? Two cuts. ⅝ to ⅞ of an inch down from the outside top, cut straight in no more than ½" the length of the board. Then cut a bevel, leaving ⅜ to ½" of the top, down to the first cut. When done, you have two "shelves" on top of the verticle board and just have to pay attn to not having bigger aggregate in the drip edge itself. My experience says that expansion joint is still critical. We use np1 with primer. That sealant will last more than 20 years easily if applied properly. I gwt it, theres little evidence of expansion and contraction, but if ita gunna happen with a concrete cap, its gunna happen at that joint. Thanks for the tips!

Hammer drill technique was genius! Thank you for sharing.

That's a good looking fireplace.

Priceless video, Thank you Roger!

The hint about using fiberglass was fabulous! I used an old sawzall blade to poke it down in. Great explanation of steps. Thank you for taking the time to make this. It was the best of all that I watched.

Thank you for your informative video. I have a rock chimney like in this video. Your step-by-step video gave me the information and confidence to undertake this task. The insulation between the rocks was brilliant! Worked like a charm. Mine doesn't look as great as yours, but I'm an amateur. Thank you!

I watched this video no less than 5 times and today I took the forms off my 3 flue chimney cap and viola. No pock marks, cracks, no leakage from the forms, and no trouble removing the quarter round. I'm a complete amateur and following this video carefully lead me.tova successful and professional result. Thanks a lot!

This is BY FAR the most comprehensive and informative video on this subject we’ve found. Thank you for doing such a thorough job on both the cap and video explanation of the process (how and why) 👍

Great tutorial!!! This is a pure result of years experience!!

You’re a hero. Look at the pitch on that roof! I quit anything over a 9 in my early 30s. Great work and beautiful instruction and explanation.

Love the video. Thanks for taking the time for a detail lecture. This was'nt tips for the job, it was a short class of great detail. Thanks for the knowledge of what and what not to do for the best crown.

this guy is a phenominal teacher

Looks great. Didn’t realize how steep the roof was. Thanks for sharing your knowledge

This in incredible!!!! Wow thank you for the fantastic video!!

Your videos helped me put a new hat on my chimney. Genius techniques and advice. Thanks for putting this out for all to benefit from!

Great video! Thanks for sharing your tips!

Thanks for this how to video. I'm bout to re tuck point my old chimney and put a actual cap on. I have some anxiety about actually doing a good job. Appreciate it.

Fantastic video work and very helpful.

Top tuition thank you very much.

Thanks Roger , the chimney in your demo looks exactly like mine, I never thought of doing the cap like yours , but it seems it would cure all my problems and bind the top 3 layers of brick together almost like a collar, by the way the videos are well explained well done , its better than watching TV

excellent presentation and insight. many thanks from CHESTERTOWN !!

Thanks for the vid, amazing trick with the hammer drill there.

Love your videos ! Your the best! From Whistler Canada

Good info thanks for the video!

Hey Roger thanks for the tips!

Thanks for this video. Legit never poured or formed a cap before, totally winged it just following this video, came out great and I made a grand in a few days, thanks jeff

Hey Roger forgot to reply about my finished chimney cap, well it went perfect, actually did a 2 stage step up on the crown as the brick work was splayed so doing a double step hid the broken bricksand and it looks really cool and stands out as a great feature on the roof, even the neighbors complimented on the design thank you so much for the education

Thank you I'm C.S.I.A. certified but, before becoming certified I had zero hands on experience, after watching this I feel confident in my abilities to pour a crown.

Totally excellent video !!!

Oh no! You’ve given me the confidence to attempt this job that I was certain I’d have to leave to the experts. Seriously, this is such a great video. You covered everything I wondered about (and was intimidated by). The only thing I’m not quite clear on is what sort of bit you had in your hammer drill. Thanks so much for this video. I think your thoroughness and methodology could work as a model for anyone producing a how-to video.

Excellent Video! Well done sir!

Cool deal I'm in the asphalt sand and gravel business so this video hits home for me.👍

Well done! Thank you.

Good detail. About the only video showing the kerf relief to keep the water from coming back to the brick face.

I use a flat-head 6inch nail in the drill. Quick, easy to lay your hands on, and no damage to the timber.

I have to do a similar project and have scoured KZfaq trying to find good advice on this job. This is by FAR the best video on the topic.

Hey Roger I borrowed your hammer drill vibrator tip. I used a wooden dowel in my drill...worked like a champ...thanks!

Nice solid job 💪🏽🧱👍🏼

Excellent informative video sir. I grew up in your area and had a house on the Okara Lakes and don’t miss the winters one bit . Another great way to make the chimney last which is far less labor intensive is to add 24-26 gauge metal chase covers to them . I have them constructed by a local metal fab shop. The initial cost is a little more more but far less maintenance in the long run and better protection from the elements. I’d also suggest sticking with Stainless Steel rain caps versus those powder coat steel ones as they rust out quickly and leave bleed stains down the chimney . I’ve been in this industry for 22 years and give the customers both options if it’s an existing chimney . If I am building a new cultured/natural stone chimney my only option is metal chase covers .

Thanks for all the information. Sounds like common sense information which typically means it's correct in my opinion.

Perfect video for me. Building staging at the moment to replace my crown.

Thank you!

Great video

Awesome video! Thank you for the vibrator trick👍

Good video, Mike haduck

you are a genius

Thank you.

Would’ve been nice to find this a week ago, lol. I ended up using quick release clamps to clamp 2x4 form around the chimney to get the width and overhang, and screwed a 1x4 to that to get the height. Used sakrete fiber reinforced concrete. For drip protection, I ran a bead of silicone around the underside about a 1/4 inch in. Hopefully that’ll help the water drip. Didn’t lube the wood. Good whack from a hammer got the form off. Turned out pretty well.

Really enjoyed this - thank you. Would you consider adding a drip edge (bell cast bead) to the lower outside edge - to further enhance shedding of rain water?

Been doing it only ten years, but my old sensei taught me an AMAZING way to do these in less than a few hours. You grab some 2x6 3-ply luons and measure in 1/4" or 1/2" if necessary from each outer edge. Gorilla tape any leftover disparity. You screw the luons into some surrounding 2x4s or 2x6 and then sit it right on top, grid wire and pour. Should allow for a 1" drip edge on each side and I've done concrete crowns in 2 hours no bullshit man.

You know you have tough hands when you grab fiberglass with your bare hands. Thanks for the tips!

This looks great, but from what I've seen, there should be a 1/2 gap between the flue and the concrete. Otherwise the expansion of the flue will crack the concrete.

Mason here. Pouring a cap tomorrow. I put flashing under mine. This would be difficult to flash under it it is just big enough to be annoying.. You could caulk the cap to the flu after you strip the form. There will be a slight crack there in time. I make a drip ledge with a router. I kinda like your method better. Thinking regardless I will make my drip edges more pronounced. I have a Makita 18v vibrator but your method works good too. A bushing hammer on a hammer drill would be good. I am on this job using PVC board for my walls. They are super smooth. I may have to reinforce them. Everything in your video was extremely solid advice. I was very impressed with it.

Roger dodger hope ur fall hobbies/chores are going well..we tare down the side boards the same day of the pour..always leave the bottom base board for a couple days but by taking down side boards 4-6hrs after pour depending on weather situation ur able to doctor up and imperfections while it's still workable..we typically use a sponge on the top and sides..flat trowel finish probably outlast sponge not sure

Ok Roger , now I see another reason why we’ve connected beyond the love of fishing, hunting and just enjoying being in Gods creation. I am by no means a stone mason and have had some bad experiences with some but I love working with stone and building stone walls and even though I’m a bit of a hack, I’ve always felt working with stone was good for the soul. Glad you commented on my video via this channel, your teaching style whether it’s catching perch or capping a chimney is always as informative as it is entertaining. Thanks, Don

so funy Roger, with the drill vibrator, you should be on tv

This was real good video - lots of good information. I think I saw a crack in my crown the last time a cleaned the chimney - don't know if I have the stamina to stand on the roof for any length of time; even with a Fall Harness I find my calves are just super tensed when I am on my fairly steep roof . Fear of slipping and having the screw heads on my metal roof dig into me, or just the thought that I may loose some tools sliding off the roof. :)

Awesome knowledge and video. What about counter flashing a stone chimney?

You had me at "I have invented...a miniature vibrator!!"

As an alternative to wood forms over stonework, I use standard (2 1/4" thick x 6" wide) Bedford sill stones over top of stonework. Cut "drip" with grinder/wide diamond masonry blade and overhang 2" minimum (code here). Fill space with mortar/bricks/etc. to flush with top of sill stones and cover with 40m rubber roofing (bond break/flashing per Masonry Institute) and set wood forms over (1/2" bearing on outer edge of sill stones). Wrap tiles with ductwork bubble wrap then pour crown, 6000psi mix with fibers & liquid integral water repellen (rent gas barrel mixer if nec.). Silicone or RTV sealant at tile expansion gap and you're done. May need to cut new tiles to extend 2" min. (code here) with electric saw/7 1/4" diamond blade unless you have gas cut-off saw (Stihl, etc.). Wood form can be pulled same day since you want to use "stiff" mix (low slump) and sill stones support concrete overhang. Can be done in one day, been doing this way for 20+ years. Your way works too. '

I followed your plan on my 90 year old chimney and everything worked very well. I did not have a hammer drill and used a rubber mallet and a palm sander to vibrate, I still ended up with some honeycombing on the lower edges. In retrospect I should of made the first batch of concrete wetter. Can I just patch those with sand mix or cement patch? Thanks for the video, it is the best out there by far.

You BAD Bro with this chimney capping.

I use my SDS with a dull bit against the form to vibrate the crete

Great video with tons of information!! This is another project I have to do on my house, may try to take my brother into practicing on his chimney first. One tip I've heard is using rope instead of quarter round....what's your thoughts on that?

U got something against Sombrero hats 😂 nice video man

Roger...do you have a video of the form breakdown and a review of the final/completed job? Any chance you can post this footage? I have 3 natural stone chimney at my house (about 26/27 years old) and am looking to shore them up some and pour the same caps like the video. I've been doing my research and your video is the best one I've seen so thank you so much for that. Thanks again as well....great work. Are you close to Maryland....baha!

After years of deferred maintenance, I'm going up on the roof tomorrow, Cutting out mortar joints, re-pointing and working on the cap. Thank you, very informative. I wondered about that expansion joint thing. Seemed like a stupid thing to do but all the experts said to put it in. Now I know why and will most likely skip it. You are correct about the leftover dregs of cement going on the top of the chimney, I think my builder ran out of Portland before he was done. last 5 courses and cap are weak and brittle.

I thought the cap was that metal thing your tape measure is sitting on :-) In the masonry industry what you are explaining is a crown.

How thick was the first pour and how long did you let it set before second pour. Thanks and great video.

Nice video! I am getting ready to tackle this myself. Our cap s leaking into the house and screwed up the drywall at the edge of the chimney. My chimney is made of a kind of brick looking stone called Miami Stone. Which was made in Miami Oklahoma. My question is; I have seen several videos that advise to use something to make a break between the brick and the cap itself because they thermally move differently. Some have used a sheet of galvanized sheet metal and even some used tar paper. What material would you recommend for this? Also, would high strength concrete mix be the same as your using regular mix and adding Portland? I appreciate your time to make the video. Thanks, Tom

If my stone chimney has rocks laid horizontal on the top already protruding around the edge for a cap should I remove those rocks and then form a cap just like this video I think this is the way but just wanted to see what you think. Thanks

Great video, very informative im curious about something, my top row of bricks need a coupe replaced due to the face coming off, unfortunately I cannot get any to match due to age of house, so I was thinking about building a crown that would come down past the first course and cover them with a layer of concrete. this would make the whole cap look thick but Im ok with that, any thoughts on that? As well I dont want a huge overhang, any reason that I couldnt have only an inch or two of overhang? providing there is enough for a drip edge? If I lived in Mexico I would be forming a sombrero hat for a chimney cap, but I live in canada, so I cant.

I like a lot of these tips and will use. However the one thing he did seem to forget is the expansion joint around the flue which expands at a different rate then the crown and will likely crack the crown after a few years. Unless I missed that in the video.

Roger want you to know ur making great videos..you should make a video on flashing

thank you Im in the process of exactly the same thing, spalled bricks have decimated the look of the dchimney also the crown is compromised so I removed all the loose stuff and built up the missing bricks with cement , now I have seen your video Ill build a collar like you and make a new crown , will this work on bricks insted of stone Im assuming yes thanks a lot

Great video. I love the hammer drill idea. However, I would put a bond break water proof layer directly under the cap and seal the water proof layer to the flue liners. I’ve seen it time and time again taking down chimneys where the cap has moved, ever so slightly, and dislodged the last course of brick, or it has spalled the last course of brick, all because there was no bond break. The cap will stay in place with its own weight. I’ve also seen it time and time again where the concrete expands and contracts and cracks the flue liner. This may be less of a big deal with a less thick and less strong mortared cap, but certainly with a concrete cap touching a clay flue liner I would’ve did an expansion joint. If you water proof under your cap it’s less of a deal if the caulking degrades every 10 or 20 years.

Hey Roger - Do you add any sort of sealer on this afterward for waterproofing? Wouldn't the snow and water drain into the concrete since it's porous?

When my gfather built our house and chimney in the country, brick fireplace with a stone exterior. Is primo. Rising damp is a horrible problem for city houses especially older ones. Bricks thirst for moisture. Can see it when you’re building and put a new brick in a bucket of water

I went ahead and poured, I do have some honey combing on the surface probably due to being slow getting the concrete on. Is there a product you recommend to seal this up?

so Roger my chimney is great with your help , but with the uncooperetive weather the crown was kind of dug up a little when covering everything up, its OK but I want to just scim it over and level it to make it perfect also I did get some pin holes formed even when I used my vibrator drill, just got a little rushed when the weasther closed in , so I wanted to know what to use to do this scim and what water repelent would you use for the whole chimney to seal both the cement and bricks thanks a lot Roger

Great vid and you cover a lot! But, one thing that I noticed and important, is you need to "pull up" the Galvanized Wire Mesh, otherwise it will end up resting on the bottom of your pour, doing nothing to help the strengthening of the cap. It is the same idea as u mentioned about the steel rebar being encased 4 inches into the concrete on a bigger slab/cap .Thanks Great idea, the mini vibrator!