So it what is fake lol what you said if this is real lol , but you got great information, and love your video I hit that like button !

Why not just use existing flashing??

I would love to see the finished coping stone in place! How much overhang did you allow? And I'm dying to know if OSHA has found you since you made this video!?!

Spreading knowledge is like lighting a candle. Lighting a second candle from a first, does not diminish the first candles flame, there is just more now. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. - knowledge weighs nothing, carry all you can

Great vid. Helpful. Thanks.

I went ahead and poured, I do have some honey combing on the surface probably due to being slow getting the concrete on. Is there a product you recommend to seal this up?

I use my SDS with a dull bit against the form to vibrate the crete

I use a large caulking gun and empty plastic glue cartilage l converted , should have it pattened

I'm sold on bonding adhesive l mix my mortar half water and half adhesive, you can't chisel this stuff off , so much stronger than just water

Dosent logic tell you that if your not doing a scratch coat before,, what's the difference in just putting mortar on just the stone? ,, That's why i soak the wall with bonding adhesive instead of a thin layer of mortar

I only use cement board now, wire is old technology before cement board and it just makes a weak place for water to get behind

I disagree with this one, lve tryed both , with cement board dry a scratch coat can fail as it draws all the moisture into the wall,, l found that brushing bonding adhesive on the wall and stone and just putting mortar on the stone makes the strongest hold,, l did many test stones too prove it, all the failures was on the both sides mortared stones never the brushed on wall adhesive stones

Awesome man! I am new to this industry, & been studying as much as I can. Cheers!

Top tuition thank you very much.

I question most of what you have done. Polymer modified mortar is what I believe you are using and that is what should be used. Your lath should be incapacitated in 1/2 of cement to protect it. A better solution is to stick stone to PermaBase cement board with a Laticrete polymer mortified mortar. That combination is much faster and the best bond you can find. It is also warranted by Laticrete for 15 years when done correctly. No need for a mallet and you have 8 to 10 minutes of play time to move or remove the stone and re-stick it. That is the only way you can know if you get 100 coverage on the stone with mortar. That is code by the way.

Where's the recipe for adding polymer thinset to type s mortar mix? We don't have a access to the polymer modified spec mix.

This looks great, but from what I've seen, there should be a 1/2 gap between the flue and the concrete. Otherwise the expansion of the flue will crack the concrete.

so thorough... nicely done!

This is a really great video for people. I especially like the fiberglass with mortar and hammer drill trick. Those will both come in handy for us. We tried a few different ways of creating a drip edge. Our favorite way does take a touch of practice, but when you get it, we love it. The verticle board flush with the height of the base, okay? Two cuts. ⅝ to ⅞ of an inch down from the outside top, cut straight in no more than ½" the length of the board. Then cut a bevel, leaving ⅜ to ½" of the top, down to the first cut. When done, you have two "shelves" on top of the verticle board and just have to pay attn to not having bigger aggregate in the drip edge itself. My experience says that expansion joint is still critical. We use np1 with primer. That sealant will last more than 20 years easily if applied properly. I gwt it, theres little evidence of expansion and contraction, but if ita gunna happen with a concrete cap, its gunna happen at that joint. Thanks for the tips!

Quikrete sells portland in 94 pound bags and concrete in 50 and 80 pound bags. So "1/2 a shovel per bag" is not particularly descriptive when it could be off by almost 1:2.

This was real good video - lots of good information. I think I saw a crack in my crown the last time a cleaned the chimney - don't know if I have the stamina to stand on the roof for any length of time; even with a Fall Harness I find my calves are just super tensed when I am on my fairly steep roof . Fear of slipping and having the screw heads on my metal roof dig into me, or just the thought that I may loose some tools sliding off the roof. :)

This might be a stupid question, but how do you work on the side of the chimney that faces out towards the garden? I imagine you could do most of this standing on the roof like he does in the vid, but you'd need access to the outer side to screw the wood together/make sure it's level. Do they just use a big old ladder, or do they make a platform?

Well now I can just do my own

Need expansion joint between flue and concrete .. basic

Should the concrete be sealed?

What a pleasure it is to watch someone that knows EXACTLY what they’re doing, and understands all the subtle nuances of obtaining a durable outcome…

your videos are wonderful!

Thanks for this video. The project I'm faced with is cultured thin horizontal stone veneer (1"-1-1/2" thick) to be applied to a brick chimney. Do you have advice on how to address the flashing on an existing roof, and the best options for treating the top of the chimney (full (like 2" thick, and 2" over hanng all sides) cap stone- custom cut with a small arrestor, vs. a full enclosing chimney cap)?

I love when I find a pro who does quality work and can explain his work efficiently in detail. Thanks so much!

What’s your recommendation for cold weather mortar/stone install on exterior surfaces? Additives? Outdoor temp restrictions?

Great video!!! Thanks!!

great craftsmanship… how do u fix a cracked flu pipe ?

is your 2x6 flush with the top brick

When my gfather built our house and chimney in the country, brick fireplace with a stone exterior. Is primo. Rising damp is a horrible problem for city houses especially older ones. Bricks thirst for moisture. Can see it when you’re building and put a new brick in a bucket of water

There is supposed to be a barrier, even if only a very thin barrier between the top of the chimney and the crown. A crown is supposed to "float". If it is bonded to the top of the chimney it could damage the chimney top or become damaged itself. The crown and chimney top will likely expand and contract at different rates which is lilely to cause damage. Also, I would not recommend using a flammable material if you do wrap the flue tile for an expansion joint. Use high heat ceramic wool insulation. Once the concrete hardens overnight you can dig out the ceramic wool about a half inch down and apply a high heat silicone caulk. Millpack might be better if it is designed to stay flexible. It may be prone to cracking. Check your expansion joint every year or two and add new caulk if needed. The drill trick is awesome. I was going to try my triangle head sander but the drill will probably work better.

Been doing this myself for over 25 years and the drill thing is genius 😅 il try this on the next one 😂

Good detail. About the only video showing the kerf relief to keep the water from coming back to the brick face.

Thank you for your informative video. I have a rock chimney like in this video. Your step-by-step video gave me the information and confidence to undertake this task. The insulation between the rocks was brilliant! Worked like a charm. Mine doesn't look as great as yours, but I'm an amateur. Thank you!

Quick question! When transitioning from vinyl siding to a stone/block foundation, can the precut drip edge purchased at Lowe’s be used for this transition or does something wider need to be used? It’s about an 1”-1.”5 on each side.

Good info thanks for the video!

I want to condemn my chimney is there anything I should be careful while making the cap over the wholes?

The drill 🤣 use a sawzall or an SDS hammer drill with a flat chisel and vibrate to your heart’s content

What a great video. This man is incredibly skillful and incredibly generous for sharing his skills with us. It's refreshing to see someone who still excells in their field of work. There are too many underachievers out there nowadays. Maybe it's just because I'm getting old, but nowadays truly skilled craftsmen are few and far betweem. I learned a lot from this video.

Thank you very much for the video for your professionalism and for donating Al your time and showing your experience to us we have a better vision of doing a good job thank you very much

Hey Roger will you please breakdown the mix to use on the back of the stones. I am going to apply stone to lath, inside. Thank you. The video is very good.

Good tips!

Great video

We have a slate floor in the inside entryway of our home. Theres a few pieces that have chipped off the surface leaving behind some sharp edges. Any tips to repair these?

If my stone chimney has rocks laid horizontal on the top already protruding around the edge for a cap should I remove those rocks and then form a cap just like this video I think this is the way but just wanted to see what you think. Thanks

How thick was the first pour and how long did you let it set before second pour. Thanks and great video.