when it comes to painting anything, its 90% prep and 10% doing the paint

You are not going for a paint job, you're giving your engine a clean, "witnessable" appearance which helps you identify leaks and look good doing it. Brush works great 👍

KZfaq should give this guy one of the awards for most educational channels. I watch all the videos of his I can. He’s got a certain temperament and way about him that makes it easy to learn what he’s teaching. This video is pretty basic stuff but dude has massive knowledge about engines and how everything works

More of you old school guys need to be making videos like this. These little trucks that lead to the best and most affordable results are invaluable. Thanks my man. I’m gonna use this 👍

"Happy little casting numbers". Bob is hiding out at UTG!

Here's trick learned from doing marine engines. Cut your gloss Rustoleum with about 8~10% acetone. And use a better brush. It'll gloss even better, it'll flow into corners better, and it'll bite into the primer for a better bond 😊

Uncle Tony is like the Paul Harrell of engine building. 👍

Another tip is that some hardware stores can mix enamels to any of the colors that they have for their latex paint. I have done this many times and most people don’t know about this.

1:28 "... do a video on it!" Well said! It's a challenge to all of the armchair critics who just have to point out how much smarter or more skilled they are than the person who actually is putting out fantastic, useful content. Cheers from Key West, Capt. Blackheart Charlie

I love that you keep your channel focus on home builds. Your knowledge pool is admirable. I hope to be half as knowledgeable

Just followed your instructions to paint my block. Turned out amazingly! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge! It turned out beautiful!! Thank you !!

You are the Bob Ross of engine painting. The the ideas and methods you show help us diy people. Many thanks!

I love these videos so much thanks for sharing the experience UTG

This video is exactly why I watch UTG. But now I feel like pulling my motor, stripping it down, map gas, acetone, and painting it with a brush. next time... Thanks Uncle Tony. your videos are much appreciated.

Channeling your inner Bob Ross I see. "Happy little casting numbers (trees)...". I love it!

This is the best "low budget" how to for the average guy in a very long time. Thanks T!

I love the “nod” to Bob Ross when you mentioned, “happy little casting numbers”. Great videos, keep ‘em coming!

I've used Rustoleum as engine paint for years. I also like to use their "hammered finish" paint on the sheet metal parts like valve covers and oil pans. It leaves a different type of surface that helps hide small imperfections. On top of that, it just looks cool!

Never would've thought to use a torch to sweat the engine. Thank you for the great video

15:14 Your technique isn't bad at all. And you're really close to it looking absolutely amazing. All you need to do is work on the discipline to do one thing: to a quick light coat. I mean not even cover the block entirely. Let the primer show through so only about 25% of the block is actually covered in the fresh paint. This is called a tack coat, and it significantly expands that "margin of error" for runs.

Used rust-oleum for decades for lots of things doing just like you showed. We made a sort of kiln over to heat up casings in to paint to get rid of the moisture and oil. Reasonable low temperatures as to not effect the metallurgy of course. We liked using either yellow or white though as it made leaks from hydraulic pumps and motors or engine blocks really obvious.

This is a VERY MUCH NEEDED video to put out on the ol' tube! Thank you for this!

Effective, inexpensive, and simple to do. The holy trinity of DIY’ers everywhere.

This was the first video I saw of this man, and my word, he is truly the best in KZfaq, not only because of his knowledge or his skills, but because he shares his tricks and you are not afraid to follow along with what he says. You have my subscription and my respect mister Tony

Tony , you’re right on with aerosol paints. They contain a higher percentage of thinner to allow them to spray. Higher solids content equals better performance and adhesion.

Another fantastic video, very informative. You're the only guy I've seen who shows how to actually prep a block and I never knew to do the torch trick! Rustoleum is a great paint. When you painted your block, I got serious Bob Ross relaxation vibes.

Never realized that a brush paint is way better for an engine block. Thanks UTG for showing me a simple and effective way to do this.

You can never be to old to learn new tricks, Old school knowledge is the best thing to learn. Thank you

Great tips for block painting, especially the heating block with Map gas! Totally makes sense. I never would have thought of this! Great tips for primer and paint as well. I will follow you instructions!

I brushed the whole underside of my 58 chevy during a frame off restoration. "Chassis Saver" quart worked great for that application. That stuff hardens with moisture in the air and literally welded a 2x4 to my concrete floor when some spilled. A 3 ft prybar wouldnt remove it. The 2x4 split apart and left a chunk stuck so bad its taken 5 years to wear it away. Ive used acetone and/or rubbing alcohol for cleaning before paint. I painted my 396bbc with "cast iron gray" engine paint.

Absolutely the best tutorial on the internet. Been doing this exact method for years, on engines & much, much more. Works everytime.

Very good video, I must say whoever done your filming is top notch, no shaking, didn't give me motion sickness like a lot of videos do. Good job !!!

In 2010 I had pulled down my old 69 c60. Stripped the cab , frame, engine. I live in Texas but found out I needed to be up in Colorado the following month to pick up a trailer. Short on funds but long on ingenuity I put it back together looking like it came from the factory. All the paint was rustolium equipment paint from local hardware store. It was all brushed on except the final coat. Did a light sand to get rid of brush strokes and runs then thined it a little and sprayed it. The paint is still on it solid if a bit faded from the sun. The trick with the torch i learned from an old timer restoring old tractors. Have 2 farmalls I was doing at the same time as my truck one I used the torch trick on the was already done. It has been 11 years and they are both used to pull hay wagons. The first one looks like nothing has ever been done to it and needed restoration after a couple of years. The one I prepped with the torch still has a solid paint job and only a couple of years old.

Hey brother , u have a good touch with the brush …. I’m inspired !!! …. Priming is smart , but the heating up tip is gold !!!!

Thanks Tony! 20 years old and I’m about to paint my first 350 small block. I’ve never had any mentors to show these tricks, so this is a massive help to me and my 79 el Camino project!

Thankyou so very much for your down to earth, common sense video. At 70 years old I'm restoring my first classic and getting ready for reassembly, looking for tips on paint and found this. Thanks again.

I was wondering about the effect of heat from the engine would have on rustoleum but if Tony says it holds up I believe it.

The Bob Ross of engine painting!

"There's no such thing as an angry tree..". The prep is always 90% of the job. Thank you for sharing this.

Wow, all the years I've been dealing/building cars I've never even thought of brush painting a engine block! Great job thank you for the video!

I agree with you about Rustoleum - used since I was a kid and it lives up to its rep. Great video and useful advice!

Hi Tony, GREAT Video, I am an old automotive Machinist , engine builder and Body N paint/frame man and fully approve your methods, the mapp torch info is priceless.

This video was a god send. Like everything in the auto world you will get a hundred different opinions and a thousand different product options. Your simple and practical explanations cut through all of the noise. Thank you!

The reason the equipment paint and rustoleum holds up well, is that it's an acrylic enamel (which is oil base, not water - not the same as acrylic paint). A lot of rattle can products, even ones labeled "enamel" are lacquer. Using the brush is definitely a great idea. It's like this - you drop some sauce on your pants, you can maybe lift it off. Until you push it in and rub it around, then you're not getting it off. Just make sure you don't leave a bristle behind. This method of painting an engine is super solid and there's no doubt that it'll hold up for many years.

I've had a rustoliem oil base paint job on a 2.3 for about 8 years. Its still on there still looks great!! I put some m.e.k. and penetrol in with it and get fantastic results with the same methods you used, you really cant beat rustoliem it is a great best kept secret!! The m.e.k. dries it quickly, penetrol helps with rust and helps it flow out.

thank you for sharing all your knowledge uncle tony. youve helped me learn soo much about old engines, and please keep sharing so we can all learn more!

Great video! Thanks for sharing these pearls of wisdom, and passing them down and preserving them for the future.

50 years ago a professional painter told me Rust Oleum is very good paint. just do it rite and let it dry well. I have done 5 vehicles with it and they all came out fine.

1. Love the Bob Ross flashback! Happy little cloud... 2. Acetone rocks! I've even had decent luck using it to melt the top layer of a crappy rattle can job to get a fresh (crappy rattle can) top coat to actually stick for a few years. 3. Has anyone tried POR 15 or Chassis Saver in high heat applications? It's almost indestructible on floor pans, frame rails, bathtubs and kitchen sinks, curious if anyone has tried it on a block.

Spot on! You have great videos, I was heating a block watching this video and the moisture was dripping on the floor... I really hadn't thought about what was in the poors of the block that I was painting because it was dry, boy was I fooled! Thank you!

Just got my block back from the machine shop, this is the best video I've found for prepping and painting it. Thanks for this Unc👍

You're channel rocks my man even being a GM guy!! Your knowledge is invaluable and always cross-make compatible! My next engine I do I will experiment with this method! I never even considered using a brush! Good call! Thanks!

I never thought about using the torch. Great idea!

Only UTG can make a video about painting an engine block interesting. Learned a few things today, thanks!

This dude knows his shit. I'll watch his videos unlike others wrenching with denny, rainman dude, etc. Oh vgg awesome. Half ass customs is doing a 39 Dodge ground up fu*in fantastic work he's doing on that. I've been in the business for only 27 years. Keep up the great work uncle tony!!!

I can’t believe we didn’t get to watch the paint dry 🤣🤣🤣🤣❤️❤️❤️❤️

My dad and I spent a few years buying and selling old tractors 40 years ago. We would pick up a gallon of paint for ford, john deere, oliver, IH, MF, Allis Chalmers, you name it. We always used a brush. We also used a fine natural (camel, horse) hair brush. It held paint better and had fewer drips and runs, better coverage and the brush marks disappeared almost instantly. We even painted a 64 GMC dually that way on the body, rims and flatbed. We could get roughly 2 tractors per gallon. My dad wanted to try spraying it to save time. We used 4 times the paint and the results were not nearly as good. There is no such thing as overspray with a brush. Nothing popped like a 2 tone color scheme. I did this to a 235 stovebolt Chevy, chevy orange. Valve cover was aluminum gray with the orange Chevrolet script letters, the intake was the same color. The starter, generator, road draft tube, air cleaner, brackets and bolt heads were gloss black. The motor was my first rebuild and low on power, so when my brother wrecked his 69 Impala with a 327 and 2 speed powerglide, I dropped that into my 56 shortbed stepside pickup. That 327 looked much better under the hood.

The contents of this video seams so trivia but are sufficient and extremely important and informative to every engine builder , young or old . How to show off your hours of metitulous work for as long as possible , thanks for the information.

I’m glad I clicked this. The torch trick is really great ! Makes sense and I never would’ve thought of it.

Absolutely love the quality of work you preformed. Brushing on rustoleum/ tremclad isn't that bad. The finish may not look as nice as a spray on but in areas like an engine block where you need durability and you need to push the paint into the pores of the cast iron I think brush on is definitely the way to go. I painted the interior of my gutted civic with a brush took a really long time but I did it that way because I couldn't afford to buy the spray cans up here in Canada it's close to $11 a rattle can. I didn't have a compressor at the time but I eventually bought one and painted the exterior of the car with an harbor freight hvlp spray gun

I will definitely use this method on my next build. Great video!

Uncle Tony, I own a Fiat 500 Abarth, I tuned it and I deliver pizza in it. Knowing that Fiat bought Chrysler, I put a Mopar sticker on my little Fiat and boy I have had the time of my life. Those Mopars of all generations play around when they see that decal. Ilearned that my little car is a lot faster than I realized and some of those Mopars sre absolutely killer. Too much fun. Before you peeps get your panties in a bunch, I own a proper Mopar. 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 with the Hemi on Fox shocks, DiabloSport and too much to list. I have learned so much from this channel the last couple years and I have applied things I learned and the way I think to my car, truck and motorcycle. I got bitching rides thanks to you UTG!! If only I can get out of California to buy a proper older car but until then the disease is raging, manifesting in other ways

Great sound quality on this video. I know in the past, you’ve said how low production quality of the video makes it more authentic and grass roots but when UT is laying down the wisdom I want to be able to hear that stuff.

I’m a rust-oleum guy to. I use it exclusively on my metal and other projects. That sunrise red is awesome; I use it on my steel fence posts, it doesn’t chip at all, and I use their primer before the finish coat. I’ve got some fence posts that I painted 22 years ago and it’s still great and it’s exposed to the weather of the Pacific Northwest.

Loved the video. Spent a few mornings this week in eastern Kentucky pulling the 390 out of my papaw's 67 galaxie and tommorow I'm headed home to Michigan with the top end and covers in my car with the intent to clean em up and come back down in a month with it all repainted and ready to reassemble. Only problem is I already picked up a couple rattle cans of Rust-Oleum engine paint 😅. I'll definitely be using some of these tips and maybe end up stashing the cans and picking up some brush on. Thanks for a wonderful video

Proud craftsmanship!!!! We need more folks like him

I plan on building a 454 for my squarebody. Thanks for the tips, Uncle Tony

You mentioned Tractor Supply. They have a brand of paint called "Majic", it can be thinned, hardener added and shot from a spray gun. If the directions are followed precisely, it gives an amazing finish. Oh, you missed a spot.

rustoleum hasn't been killed by the epa because it's a fish oil base. Takes about a month to fully harden. I like to spray it through a cheap harbor freight hvlp gun with Majic enamel hardener. Respirator is an absolute must if you use the enamel hardener. Works great on wheels. I've always wondered if it would hold up to engine heat, now I know! Great content as usual

Great vid, Tony; my biggest take-away was the prep using the torch. Brilliant. Thanks.

OMG I NEEDED THIS, THANK YOU

Thank you Tony for the great tips. I've been looking for (methods for dummies). And I've thought this would be the simplest method for me. This is for my 53 Ford tractor mostly in pieces. Engine been machined, all back together and rattle can primer. I've often thought of brush painting all the cast iron and I just don't think I can manage a spray gun nor have facilities. And "for dummies", I mean folks with limited experience like me. Thanks again.

Thanks for the help. We all appreciate it.

This still is my favorite video....Clever and resourceful...thanks' Uncle Tony.

Can also use propane. I just tested it on a bare block I got back from machine shop. Incredible.

Very nice! I'll have to try that next time. I am a fan of the Pontiac Blue block color myself. Good video Uncle Tony

Here is an extra little tip for ya .If you put your can of paint can into some hot water and let the can get nice and warm it gives a better smoother finish ,less brush marks works on rattle cans too .I paint guitar bodies this way and you can't tell that they are brush painted .cheers from NZ ...

You Sir, ARE an artist of sorts. Great job,paint job, and info. Thanks for the video

That’s genius to use the torch before painting. I’m gonna try that on the next block or heads I paint. I’ve had good luck with the rattle cans so far. Rustoleum is the go to for me.

Nice! I found the Van Sickle (tractor paint) is also really tough (even in rattle can). If you mix that stuff and add the hardener (not required) it adds more gloss.

I’m happy, I’m happy after seeing you’re video about “timing” for over one hundred thousand miles vehicles. I followed you’re directions and it worked fantastic. My 73 dodge 360 camper van runs like brand new. My fuel mileage went up to, just I’m time for the $4.99 a gallon, thanks Tony !!!

Rustolium / Tremclad. I’ve used them for years. Sprayed trucks with it. Clear over it and you get amazingly affordable results. Keep it up Tony!

My dad taught me about warming the metal over 40 years ago, when I was a kid rebuilding and selling bicycles. I live in a humid climate near the ocean, so moisture returns very quickly. Spray paint wasn't as good in the 70s, but Rustoleum always gave great results. I'd spray on the primer while the metal was still warm, but not TOO hot. The ceramic engine paint they make now is phenomenal!

Tony I have a cheap method you may or may not like but it appears to work well, at least for me. Built a powder coat oven by converting an 250 gallon fuel tank into a oven, well I went a little overboard with mine but moving on. Used oven heater elements and a Process Control unit from Ebay. Final product cost was around $150 but I went a little crazy with mine. What I do is like you did heat the block up to 250 deg for about 20 mins, as you said you have all sorts of oils and crud in the block. And yes naptha works outstanding. then back in the oven again for a few minutes, several cycles. Then reheat the block to around 250 deg pull her out and hit it with powder coat of your pick, I use Columbia Coatings as they seem to be a quality product at a reasonable price. Give it several heavy coats and all is good. I use this a lot on air cooled engines and about the only issue so far is the cylinders and maybe the heads will eventually darken but with water cooled seems to hold for a shit load of time. As a added bennie Tony you can do wheels real easy. You can use a Harbor Freight spray outfit for most simple jobs but I broke down and bought a $500 unit for fancy stuff. Yes what you did is how I used to do it, just tried powder coat and loved the results.

Back around 1990 in high school shop we painted a truck frame with brush on Rust-Oleum ,and we kids kind of laughed. Well the teacher had the last laugh as I saw that truck at a show about 10yrs ago, and the frame still looked mint.

You're a great teacher, Tony!

Great instruction. Nice to see I've been doing something right. I've had great results using a MAPP torch or an electric heat gun to get the moisture out of cast iron, followed by acetone or lacquer thinner cleaning, then Rust-O-Leum primer and gloss rust paint and always brushed applied. Great way to paint brake calipers.

About as basic as it gets and I still enjoyed watching it.😎👍

I had to come check your channel out because DD SPEED SHOP was talking good about you and now I'm a new subscriber. That motor you painted came out really nice and very reasonable. Keep up the great work and God Bless you and your family. 💯👍👍🙏🙏✌👌

The reason that the original SBC became orange is because when Ed Cole first created it, his wife worked at Detroit Public Works, and she brought home some orange traffic enamel paint and Ed Cole wanted a bright color that would stand out in his '54 Chevy Belaire hardtop that he put it in.

I build engines professionally and I agree that engine enamel really isn’t that great, comes off very easy unless you apply several cans. I gotta do what my boss wants but when I do my own personal engines I do it this way, cheaper and better.

I was involved rebuilding with a early Jaguar engine. She was so smooth and pretty. Come to find out that the Jag factory used body filler on the outside of the blocks to make them look so good.

Thanks Uncle Tony,for the tip on using torch to withdraw moisture from the cast iron block ! I almost never could keep paint on a block and i NEVER knew there were all those contaminates like what you boiled to the surface with torch.

Great video Tony. I love this kind of stuff.

This is why I love your videos man. Practical advice plus your experience. FYI, I have a 2000 Zinc yellow Mustang (it's 22 years old -- original owner here LOL) -- I blew some pretty decent money buying exact - matched caliper paint until by accident one day I discovered Rustoleum John Deere Yellow as simply a darker shade of the same color (pretty hard to match otherwise). On calipers -- it's perfect. Bonus: Stuff is darn near indestructible. Can't say that about other products. Pennies on the dollar and a better choice. Who da thunk it? Anyway, I'm going to be using your advice about the rusty metal primer and paint. Thanks again.

Also I assume it beats the Dulicolor turquiose I put on some bare spots on my 318 with like a wire brush and probably Rustoleum primer while I was waiting for a friend to come back with the darn engine hoist. :) Later that remaining engine paint ended up looking surprisingly good on a Stratocaster. :)

Any painting is all in the prep even your method… great stuff uncle!

Thank you! I learned a few things I really never thought about! I appreciate that very much. Great video! It's nice that you recognize the common builder.

Tony, at the end of my Senior year in high school, our Industrial Arts teacher had all of us clean and re-paint all of the machines with a can of paint and by brush. The machines always looked great and the paint always looked thick and rich. With a brush, the bristles give the paint that little extra "nudge" to get into the pores of the cast iron. Thank you for all of your videos.

I've contemplated using implement paint on my car. It's cheap. And if it can last for years on an old tractor, it should be able to last on my old Buick. Plus, you can wet sand and buff it. Or even put clear coat on it if you want. As long as it's completely cured and all the solvents are evaporated out.