A good tip. When you've finished bleeding, use the syringe off of the caliper end to suck out the fluid from the syringe on the lever to reduce spillage. Great tutorial as always.

This mans single handely saved me hundreds at a bike shop

I had my MT7s bled with old pads in. I wore the pads in the rear down to the base metal so bought new ones. Couldn't get the f'ing things in because the pistons wouldn't go back far enough to get them in place without one of the other pistons popping out again. I ended up opening the bled port a bit then pushing the pistons in to dump out the excess fluid. Long story short: if your pads are close to shot when you need to bleed replace the pads at the same time. 😅

Brilliant as ever Dave. I always look forward to your videos. Cheers. Colin.

Brilliant practical video Real world experience Thank you

I have installed the mt5's on my wife bice I never had issues with bleeding them, people also have issue with sram brakes but me thinks it's about not putting pressure in the lever and sucking the last remaining bubbles, this process must be repeated until there's no bubbles. Not a few, not one. No bubbles ... 30 yrs of motorcycle care teached me to read the friggin manuals 😂

Dave, SUPREME thanks for your efforts doing this, as well as the install on the trek rail5 from 3 years ago. Your work is priceless. My rear shimXT had a shattered piston, so I went wandering for a full brake replacement. Found the MT7 on sale and fell for it, like shopping while hungry. I'm so glad you did this video; the timing is perfect. Also perfect is the entire youtube universe of pain and suffering I'm finding about maguras just as I'm about to install mine. I suppose I'll wait until the levers break (no pun intended), then perhaps I'll try a Shigura setup.

I don't know why, but bleeding my rear MT5 after I cut them wasn't a nightmare as people suggest it would be, it was fairly smooth without any seperate tutorial, just the Magura bleed kit and instructions 😅

This is an excellent tutorial on brake bleeding - very nice work. The methods used apply to every open system hydraulic brake, with the only changes being the connections to the lever and caliper. Tipping the bike can be avoided by just pulling the lever and holding it in to the bar with a rubber band or cable tie before disconnecting the syringe at the caliper - this seals the system at the lever end, so the fluid can't flow out. For filling the lever, I've had inconsistent results with the bucket bleed method you've shown. Connecting a syringe to the lever, as you've done at the caliper, and actively pushing brake fluid in and then sucking it out is significantly more effective. This works because the volume of the brake lever reservoir isn't fixed, there's a diaphragm that can move in and out as the brake fluid level changes, and there seems to be some dead volume in the lever that air bubbles don't always clear out of under gravity. As for Maguras needing more maintenance, this is news to me. I have a Louise I ran for well over a decade (It's still fine - just not on a bike at the moment), including 5 years of a daily commute that dropped 100 m in the first 500 m, which cooked it ever morning and all I ever did was feed it brake pads, tightened the lever adjusters (They drift enough that after a year or two the bite point has moved in enough to be noticeable) and I think I topped up the lever once. The joy of mineral oil brakes is that the oil doesn't degrade, attract water or strip paint, so the idea of regularly bleeding for any reason other than changing the brake line length or replacing a liquid containing part is just unnecessary work. Magura probably have some guff about regular bleeding now just to keep up with the others, but historically (20-30 years ago anyway) their attitude was just leave them alone unless you can feel air in them. Same story with Shimano brakes.

Shiguras ftw 🎉

Can you do one on tec4s? Your videos are amazing 👌🏻

Warranty .... XD What a nice joke =) Iam running on my Daily Shigura. Amazing biter! And the other drine got stock MT2 with Brakelight feature and because of the leverage and old grippy Blue Pads its fine and great enough for my Wife.

I've done the vacuum thing on the lever syringe before, what's the difference with doing it at the caliper?

Infind them straight forward dave .great video.the carbotecture gets a lot of stick but magura have been making clutch and brake master cylinder parts for audi mercedes bmw for years without issue

In your opinion, what is the easiest brake brand to service?

Why not close the system at the brake handle first then the caliper? I did mine this way and rotated the bike but did not feel the need to remove the caliper as it couldnt drip from a closed system.

Some people say to remove the pads and push back and lock the pistons would this not help?

I what way is this easier then the usual Magura method with a drilled syringe?

1. All maguras I owned (2x julie, 1x mt4, 8xmt5) were leaking when attaching the syringe to the bleed port. I always lift the caliper above the lever when doing that. It takes 10 secs to rotate the bike when having a stand. And I don't add air to the system. 2. For every bleeding on any bike is recommended to remove the wheel and the pads - there are 2 nice bleed blocks from magura. 3. The best thing to do is attach a funnel with a threaded inlet to the lever. Ez emtb offers kits that are the best bleed solutions on the market. 4. The method I use (100% successful) is to remove the lever from the bar and rotate it while pushing the oil from the caliper. 5. The lever is the pain in magura case. Shiguras are very easy to bleed with 100% success rate. 6. Plastic-phantastic lever body doesn't belong to mtb product range in this type of applications. Their 1st attempt was julie that was a piece of junk. I had 2 issues with them and it was the only one situation when this happened in my entire brake history. 7. I buy mt5 brakes , easy to find in EU for 65 £ Incl freight and customs, and shimano levers (20-50£ per piece, depends on the model), sell brand new levers for 30-40 £ and run shiguras for 75£ with saint levers and they are easy to bleed, maintain and pain-free to use.

For an amateur bike mech would it be best to remove the wheel ?

This is the opposite of the magura tech videos really Never had a bad bleed following the manufacturer method

Good god man, you're playing with fire leaving the pads and rotor in place.