That would be like a demigod, or something.

@@RustBeltAuto hahah

Bleeding a clutch by blocking the slave cylinder

fax. use a whole bottle of dot 3 on my accord trying to bleed

Im about to fix a customers car i usually work on bmws never have a problem bleeding! Great video! Its good to do Some research before starting any job even if you are a licensed mechanic you can’t possibly be an expert on every vehicle!

@@Icepressa that's true and facking stack bleeding this Toyota Hiace 2002 for 3 day still no facking pressure I even replace clutch master and clutch slave do you have idea why there's no pressure and no leaking??

@@nightriders9833 I ended up getting a pressure bleeder and forcing it into the reservoir and opening up the bleeding screw and hand bleeding It while pressure is applied threw the pump bleeder!!

@@Icepressa thanks man that's helpful☺

I believe so. I may make a try on my honda civic dx 97 with already 280,000 miles on it.

@@balloney2175 I have a honda Accord I'm going to try it on. Hey, do you know how the Honda Civic got its name? Waaay back, Honda released a little hatchback car with no name, but put the letters "CVCC" on the back. It stands for "Controlled Vortex Combustion Chamber." It was Honda's version of a high performance head to rival the Hemispherical "swirled" head which gives Dodge cars so much power. Since the car had no name, everyone started calling it the "Civic." And the name stuck. Great car. You're lucky to have one! (Although my favorite Honda car was a Honda Prelude SiR I bought in 2002... *ANYTHING* Honda is great.)

What problem you had with your Focus??

Hope it works on my 02 svt

You just dead head the hydraulic system, in order to push air up, and then put pressure against the slave cylinder, while pulling up the pedal, so the fluid, and air has no place to go but up, when you release the vise grip. Nobody in an education system will teach you this, but when you are in a pinch, and time is against you in reality, as a tech, it is the thing to do, and it works.

Was it a pick-up? I have a 98 mazda b2500 and I can't find any videos that show how to bleed that vehicle

@@fletcherhawkins1682 no, a Mazda2

I got friends in low places.

😁

@@RustBeltAuto I got the same issue. Pedal stuck to floor and I have to pull up normally. But, there is no external leakages anywhere and fluid level doesn't drop at all. So, is internal leakage in the seals within the master cylinder the issue? If so, how to confirm? Thanks.

@@tnamen1307 late reply sorry, I would have thought changing the master cylinder if u look at you master cylinder from the clutch pedal side you can see the seal washers is fault by grease come out or flued,

Glad it could help.

Welcome!

You might need a master and slave cylinder.

Nice!

Mega Ded i have a 06 g35 and I was wondering if it worked before I tried it?

my flexible line happened to be connected to the slave cylinder but still between it and the master so ill have to see if it works

🤗

from master to slave

@@RustBeltAuto great,thanks

@@RustBeltAuto I got the same issue. Pedal stuck to floor and I have to pull up normally. But, there is no external leakages anywhere and fluid level doesn't drop at all. So, is internal leakage in the seals within the master cylinder the issue? If so, how to confirm? Thanks.

@@tnamen1307 air in master or bad master. Is it new? Is the fluid black? Dead head master. You could bench bleed it. Fill master. Plug line hole. Push piston in a bunch. Air should come out the top. If not suspect bad master.

Technically you could put it on after there is pressure in the system.

It's the pressure hose going to the slave cylinder. Lightly clamped. That is how you dead head a hydraulic system.

⁶ù

Yes. I have done this method to many honda's.

Well, if you pinch off the line, and its rock hard, it will be something farther down the line. There's all kinds if fun stuff down there it could be.

Does creep while running in gear, shift if you pump the petal a few tines, is the pedal spongy, does it disengage all the way, does it have excessive free play. Sounds like the clutch is not disengaged all the way. Indicative to air in the system, internally leaking master, or adjustment issue.

If you still have problems after bleeding, yes. Sometimes it works.

Its probably a master cylinder issue. If there is a flexible hose you can lightly pinch off, and the pedal is not rock hard when lightly pushed, most likely, that will be your issue.

You usually only need a clutch when it is slipping. If you can pump on the pedal, and make it work, you probably have a failing master. If your fluid is black and nasty, probably best to replace master and slave anyways. Just my best guess.

Thers is no park on a manual transmission. You should probably make sure the pressure plate, or throw out bearing, fork is not damaged. If you can dead head the master, it should be rock hard, without pumping up the pedal. You can also pump on the pedal, and see if the cluch works, that would indicate a hydraulic issue. That's all I got.

If it is not loosing fluid, it is probably the master, and not the slave.

If it goes into gears easily with the engine off, the clutch is probably not engaging all the way. Forcefully engaging the clutch is a bad idea.

In between master and slave.

Thank you :)

Bleed it first. If you have issues try this. It has worked on everything I have tried it on, and have been doing this for a very long time.

@@RustBeltAuto fabulous will do thank you

Is it leaking fluid? Is the slave cylinder part of the throw out bearing inside the bellhousing? Can you pinch off the flexible hose, and get a hard pedal? I don't really have a simple answer, because I'm not looking at the vehicle. It does sound to me like a hydraulic issue, and not a mechanical one.

Master, slave.

Pull it up by hand.

Probably air in the system.

@@RustBeltAuto I’ll try your method again on the MC. When you crimp the flexible line, how tight should it be crimped? Pushing the pedal down should have a lot of resistance or some?

@@theBoogymang just give it a light crimp. You should be able to feel the line close up all the way. If there is no air left, and it all gets pushed out the top, the pedal should feel rock hard when pushed lightly. If it remains rock hard, you should be able to bleed the rest of the system out normally.

@@RustBeltAuto Oh ok so bleed the rest of the system after un-crimping the line if the pedal feels firm? I wasn’t doing that

@@theBoogymang sometimes you dont need to.

Can you pump it to get it to work better?

Cannot remember. Looked the part up on Ebay, and it looks like a normal slave cylinder. Follow the line. Those ones in the throw out bearing are usually in Ford's and Mazda's.

Bleed out as much as you can, and block the line inbetween the master, and slave. Good luck.

Surely!

Can you see the slave cylinder moving when you hit the pedal?

Hope it helps.

@@RustBeltAuto I got the same issue. Pedal stuck to floor and I have to pull up normally. But, there is no external leakages anywhere and fluid level doesn't drop at all. So, is internal leakage in the seals within the master cylinder the issue? If so, how to confirm? Thanks.

Don't siphon brake fluid with your mouth, it causes brain death, or something if you accidentally swallow it.

@@RustBeltAuto I was using an 8ft tubing, so it never got anywhere near my mouth. And yeah brake fluid is about the worst fluid there is.

@@RustBeltAuto I got the same issue. Pedal stuck to floor and I have to pull up normally. But, there is no external leakages anywhere and fluid level doesn't drop at all. So, is internal leakage in the seals within the master cylinder the issue? If so, how to confirm? Thanks.

@@tnamen1307 That is correct, it's leaking internally, in fact thats how most of them fail, cold weather makes it even worse, something's to do with Viscosity. If you know how to "double-clutch" you can still drive it though if you need to move it. Edit: Double-Clutch minus the clutch part lol, if you can float gears aka rev-matching, then you dont need the clutch pedal at all. You also would have to disable the dummy switch under the clutch pedal that requires you to start the car with the clutch pedal engaged. Just incase you need to move it.

@@aarontapatio2257 but, I can't even changed gears even with or without clutch depressed in engine running. This is very surprising. Why gears not engaged while engine running with or without clutch depressed?? Please made me clear about this.

If you can pinch off the line, the pedal should getvrock hard if you pump it up. If not, you have air in the master, the line before the place where you pinched it off, or your master is no good. Doing this should give you a good indication on how to proceed.

I am far away from there.

Then… OKAY BYE

Some are nylon. You need to look around for one. Good luck.

Look at your floor behind the master cylinder. It might be leaking there. If your clutch works properly, and you need to keep adding fluid, it must be going somewhere. Also if your resiviour is for both clutch, and brakes, you might need to find a leak in your brake system. Best ideas I can give you.

If the system is already bled, and it still doesn't work, I do this procedure with the slave bleeder closed the whole time.

It's not uncommon to have master/slave issues. Especially if the fluid is really black, and has never been changed before. If you think you got all the air out, I would find a flexible rubber piece of line between the master, and slave, lightly pinch it off with a vice grip, and lightly pump the pedal. It should get rock hard. If it does not, you will have a master cylinder problem. At that point, I would replace both parts. If it does get rock hard, you will have a slave cylinder issue. Of course this is assuming you got all the air out of the system. I also do something like this if air is trapped in the master cylinder.

@@RustBeltAuto ok thanks for the information.

It just needs to work.

3 possibilities 1. you pinch the wrong hose, (you should pinch the hose between master and slave) 2. no fluid in the reservoir 3. the master cylinder is junk, or not connect to the clutch peddle

A lot of times, black fluid is a good indication of failed components. When fluid has never been bled, and you pump out all that black junk, the black junk is the only thing in the system that is keeping it working, because the black junk is supposed to be your seals, and parts, that have basically been solidified.

😁

Between master and slave. It is a high pressure fluid line.

Could be moving parts making strange noises? I've seen mounts, and things break, and get loose. Maybe the vent on the rubber boot is plugged? I don't know. Hear all kinds of strange things from people. If it's not broke, don't fix it? I would check the level once in a while. Make sure it's not running down the inside of the firewall.

It's attached to your clutch pedal. That's all I can tell you.

Ok thank you

I have never done a c4 to t5 swap.

@@RustBeltAuto My bad well u sound just like him sorry

This worked for a couple weeks on this car, and ended up having a defective master.

It wouldn't hurt.

Thanks! I'll let you know how it goes.

All I had to do was fill the damn thing haha

The clutch is probably not disengaged. Put it in 1st , start it, and see if it creeps.

It wont go in any gear I push the clutch all the way to the floor too

It also starts without the clutch I have it hook right to the starter so I'm jumping the starter

Joe Janis did you ever figure it out, I’m having the exact same issue

@@nene6569 did you ever figute it out I'm having that same issue

What car, what brand master?

@@RustBeltAuto Vectra C Luk clutch kit, a few other people i know have replace both salve and master and it didnt help, my mechanic said he thinks It’s air trapped in the crevices of the bearing.

@@sahajankhan1436 what car? You used a LUK master cylinder?

@@RustBeltAuto Vauxhall vectra c sri, 06 plate petrol car.

@@RustBeltAuto Hi sorry please check my very first comment again as i left out alot of details, i have gone through it and corrected it.

Well, thought I'd add after trying this, I did use a visegrip on the old hose, it did block off flow, I did do the pumping deal, it did seem to help remove air maybe, but my clutch still is not disengaging. Pressure plate, flywheel were rusted solid to clutch plate, I fixed that last week...now thinking maybe the problem is not air in lines. Anybody ever have pressure plate springs bend and not disengage? Thanks again for this..)

Bend no. Diaphragm type springs usually break. If you grind off the rivets, and take the pressure plate apart, you will probably see a crack in the diaphragm.

@@RustBeltAuto thanks for the reply! I agree with you this type of spring would break not bend. So, it's fixed now. Wow. There were two issues. Pressure plate and air in a hose. 1. The pressure plate was brand new, and was apparently installed with three clips being removed before mounting it to the flywheel. When tightening bolts, the self adjusting ring moved itself into the "worn out clutch plate" position. Wow. So, the springs moved into a position as if they were fully compressed, like all the way down to the "stop" ring they go to, when pedal is fully depressed. Pressure plate could never open, clutch could never disengage. So, that, for three months, has been the number one issue...hydraulics was secondary to it. I did bleed all air from the system, three months ago, enough to push the fork all the way and break throwout bearing! Then, the fork actually went so far as to be scraping against pressure plate. Wow. I could look into the slave cylinder hole on bell housing and see the grind marks..and hear the nasty grinding. So there was no air. But I could not imagine anything about the pressure plate issue, so thought it was still air. After multiple attempts at air removal, replacing slave and master cylinders, I had nowhere to buy a new hose to master cylinder, so took two hoses and cooled them together with a third hose I clamped inside them. I had to make it long, due to the "bend" that would have broken the patched connection, and in doing so, I inadvertantly made a high spot in the feed hose. That hose feeds Master cylinder from shared reservoir. Each pump of pedal makes fluid return to reservoir, and then return to cylinder, we just don't see it. And, so, the air I could not remove from system, was trapped in the high point of the hose, and would never and could never be removed. It was like tipping and pouring soda from a clear bottle, seeing it pour out, seeing air in top of bottle that will never leave. I found the best system for me, (btw I did use your visegrip clamping idea, yes it works) if slave cylinder is removed from bell housing, piston actuator rod is pressed slowly and repeatedly against transmission, all air will be pushed up and out through master and into reservoir. BUT, I had made what is basically a "p trap", by extending the hose, and that air kept being reintroduced into master cylinder. (Which fits with your plan to tip the cars...to elevate reservoir...but also, without seeing it, removing air that is trapped in lines. ) So, every pump from below, I could hear a "gurgle of death" from above, coming from the hose. Like sucking air through a straw at bottom of a milkshake. Same sound. I have now tipped the hose to eliminate the p trap. But...better yet, actually found a place that has OEM BMW hose..I bought it. Ha. Ready to reinstall all hydraulics, including the original master cylinder that had tiny pinholes in the center round tube, which makes a seal to outside. That I have plugged with silicone, which is magically impervious to brake fluid. It was responsible for sucking air into master maybe six months ago, when clutch was first reinstalled. Piston seal worked, but second seal leaked, I had seen a few drops of fluid coming from center. Ahhh, yes. There's much more, to this story. Car has not driven since 30' seawater waves cascaded over it filling it with sand. It sat in bmw dealership three years, top down, filled with rain water like a swimming pool. So, if you actually read this, I'll someday make a video to post on my channel, MAKERTOOLS. THANKS AGAIN, for your great video. It helped get me to where it is today... Waiting for a new throwout bearing, pressure plate self adjuster is reset and reinstalled. Running and ready to drive next week for the first time in eight years now. (Though, truthfully, I did drive it with no clutch, starting in 1st gear, shifting with no clutch.) Did that make sense?!? Lol thanks..)

I bleed out my clutches. Owners manuals leave it out, and I don't know why. Some fluid gets so old, and black, that when you change it, the system doesn't work, and you need to replace parts.

@@RustBeltAuto the clutch was replaced before i bought it. And i think it runs on a cable system. Im not sure man haha. Aint seeing a whole lot of what im looking for online

Yes. Gravity bleeding, or using vacuum is best. That usually works for everything. Sometimes air still gets trapped in the master cylinder though. I usually try this procedure as a last resort. Like for instance, on a Ford.

Rust Belt Auto thanks bro. Whoever makes the engine bays needs to be less of an asshole. Lol