Thank you so much for taking the time to write such a lovely message. Huge thank you, and glad you like them. Aneka x

Thanks Maria and glad I could help.

Thank you for sharing such kind words. I am SO pleased that I have been able to help you. I wish you all the best with your grading and any questions let me know. Aneka x

So pleased I could help Joy.

Glad I could help. Aneka x

Aurora26 so pleased you liked it. Thanks so much and good luck with your sewing. Aneka x

So pleased I could help. Thank you.

Amy Hart Hi Amy, oh I am so pleased! Thank you so much. Just so pleased you found it useful. I have spent the afternoon editing it and re-watching the video hoping that it makes sense to everyone. It's always hard to know how to get the information across clearly! Thanks so much, Aneka x

Thank so much. Glad it was helpful!

Thank you Rosemary. :-))

Hi Caroline, pleased I could help. Aneka :-))

So pleased! Yay! Aneka :-))

Thank you so much Alisa. Aneka x

Hi Anna, so lovely to meet you here! I am SO pleased that you like my tutorials and find them useful. Thank you for your lovely words. Wishing you all the best with your sewing. Aneka x

Thank you!

Thank you! Aneka

So glad I could help. Good luck with your project!

Happy to help. Aneka

Hi Linda, thank you for your lovely comments and I'm so glad you found the tutorial useful. Aneka x

Glad I could help.

Thank you xx

Thank you Jo. Aneka

Great to hear!

I am so glad you found the tutorial useful, thank you! Aneka x

Thanks so much Gill. ❤️

Really pleased it helped. Good luck! Aneka

So pleased it was helpful.

Glad it was helpful!

So pleased I can help you, just at the right time too! Next tutorial is how to lengthen and shorten a pattern. Coming on Wednesday! Aneka

Thank you Isolde. Aneka x

Hi Nora, I am so pleased I could help. Good luck! Aneka

Thank you.

Glad I could help Michelle.

Hi there, I am so pleased you like the tutorial. When I am making a calico toile I would first take my measurements (like this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fMinaKSo06i8YKc.html) and then adjust the flat pattern to get it as close to your measurements as possible. You measurements may span over a couple of different sizes? (I cover how to adjust the pattern to your measurements in this video. I also talk about finished garment measurements kzfaq.info/get/bejne/g6ecgc12vN6diYk.html) After I have corrected the flat pattern I would then make a calico toile. I hope some of those videos help. I will try and film something on how to amend fitting issues, I will need to get some models. Or maybe I could do something with the community, everyone on here a live video or something. Will look into it! Aneka xx

Made to Sew Thank you Aneka for you quick and informative response. You are just fabulous. I will just do it and like you say in cheap calico it won't matter with mistakes. I just get frozen and it prevents me from doing it. Practise practise. Thank you again you really do make sewing easier the way you break it all down xx

Sounds like a great idea. And don't worry about making a mistake, I think we all get caught up about not making a mistake or having a problem, but that is how you learn!! As you said practise, practise! Wishing you all the best, Aneka x

You are so welcome.

Glad it helped

Hi there, if you watch this tutorial I explain about how ease. How to find the finished garment measurements and the best way to work with them: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/g6ecgc12vN6diYk.html I do hope it helps? Aneka

Hi there, thanks for mentioning this, really appreciated. I am going to film videos on making a calico etc. So hopefully this will help too. Thanks, Aneka x

You're very welcome, Aneka! It is hard enough to alter patterns, without forgetting to do this! Your tutorials are great.

Thank you so much, that is really kind.

Thank you, I'm pleased it confirmed what you have been doing. Always useful when the measurements match yours too!😃

👍

Thanks Ramon. Good luck!

Hi Kimberly, It really depends on the shape of the pattern. You do need to make sure that the dart when closed doesn't have an angular finish to it. For example if you have graded from below the dart, you could have a bit of an angle over the dart. So you do need to close the dart and aim for a smooth transition, but ideally you don't want to be taking / removing much (if any) fabric from where the dart is because this will change the size of the bust of the garment. Sorry, that probably doesn't help. Most of the time it isn't going to be a drastic different in doing either option. And just consider what I mentioned above, smooth transition and not taking much (if any) as you pass over the dart. Then hopefully you can make it work! Aneka x

Thank you. Sometimes I just feel so confused lol. I buy many sheets at the thrift store and do make mock ups but yes I understand now on to the thrift store.

Great idea, thank you. In the meantime I have a free pattern you can download: www.madetosew.com/product/copen-shift-dress-top/ with tutorial kzfaq.info/get/bejne/d7l7oNqqnN7PnJ8.html and I will be showing pattern cutting tips for amending this. I hope you will find that useful. Aneka :-))

Thank you so much :)

If you don't have any references then you may need to apply proper grading rules. Depending on how many sizes you need to grade up? Like what you would do in the fashion industry or for a professional sewing pattern. I don't have a video on this at the moment, do you have any pattern drafting books you can use / follow?

Hi Diane, of course. I would measure yourself and compare your measurements to that of the pattern. The difference between your measurements and those of the pattern, divide by 4 and add onto the side seams at the Bust, Waist and Hip. Do you have markings for these areas? Does this helps? Aneka x

Hi Aneka, thank you for your reply. I have managed to solve my problem by adding an extra inch either side of the zip that goes all the way down the back of the blouse. It now fits perfectly. Sometimes just playing around with it can solve a problem. Also I have just purchased a body form which is an enormous help when making clothes to fit. I love your channel and have learnt so much. Once again thank you for getting back.

Hi Elaine, Oh I am so pleased you managed to solve this. Wonderful news. Thank you for your kind words. Aneka x

Hi there, I think I understand your question. Do you mean that you need the follow the shape of the line for the sizes? So around the armhole there is a larger amount graded, at the bottom of the armhole there is less graded? Does that make sense? I think you have solved your problem already? Thanks, Aneka

@@MadetoSew what she means is just look at any multisize commercial pattern.on the armhole curves the bigger size lines converge at a point and switch with smaller size lines this video is incorrect as far as the armhole goes.

@@roxielynn5289 Yes that is correct, I should have shown the front armhole of the pattern and the sleeve of this pattern because that would have shown this. What I am trying to say in the video is that that easiest way for someone to do this that has no knowledge is to copy what happened between the other sizes; using the closest sizes (whether they are larger or smaller than your size) as a guide. Thanks for pointing this out and sorry that I didn't think to show an area of a pattern where this happens. Really appreciate your comment here. Aneka x

Hello! @roxie lynn was super kind to explain the issue here. I am very sorry that I didn't show the front armhole or sleeve of the pattern where the lines swap and the larger sizes become lower on the pattern at the base of the armhole. The key rule is that you follow the difference between the sizes above or below what you are changes. If they move from being above the size to be below the size then you need to do the same thing. I hope that helps? And thank you for pointing this out. Aneka x

Do you mean you are working with stretchy fabric using a pattern that's for a woven non stretch fabric? Then yes you would need to.

Hi Megan, lovely to hear from you. It can be tricky blending between a size 6 at the Bust and size 7 at the Waist depending on where the darts are positioned. For Copen I would recommend that you choose a size 6 for the dart (if your bust is a size 6 you want to make sure you use the size 6 dart so that the end of the dart is correct for your bust). Then blend from the bottom of the dart to the size 7 at the waist. You will need to re-true the dart which may change the outside V shape of the dart. Does that make sense? If you have a dart on a pattern that is closer to the waist you may have to blend between a size 6 and 7 across the dart. I would always keep the point or apex of the dart at a size 6, but you could tape the dart closed. Draw from a size 6 at the underarm to a size 7 at the waist. I would wheel over the drawn line that crosses the dart with a tracing wheel now to true the dart and get the correct outside V shape. Open up the dart again and then connect the dart point or apex to the edges of the V shape that has been trued. The legs may change position slightly if you have increase the size across the dart. I hope this helps? Aneka x

Thank you so much for your prompt reply. I greatly appreciate it. I will give this a go!

Thanks

Hi Anna, have you checked your Back Length measurement against the pattern Back Length? If your back length is shorter than the pattern then you will need to adjust it at the Lengthen and Shorten line above the waist. This will make sure that the waist is in the right place for you. If your Back Length is the same as the pattern then you can adjust it below the waist. You can remove it at the hem but ONLY on this pattern or another pattern that is a straight skirt. Otherwise it would distort the garment shaping. Does that make sense? I actually have a video on how to lengthen / shorten a pattern coming tomorrow! Aneka x

Hello Anke,Yes it was very helpful thank you but I will wait for the tutorial before I alter the pattern.ThanksAnna

Hi Anna, it will be up this afternoon. Thank you, Aneka

Hi Madison, in this tutorial I just move them (the same amount as the pattern does, between the previous sizes). Of course this isn't officially 'grading'; if I was making a pattern to sell. It just helps people use the information in front of them to get the sizing right. Once I have done this I would then chest the Bust apex, and you can use this tutorial: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ZtmidpSfz8nFdWg.html to vheck and reposition the bust dart. You can do the same for the waist dart. Aneka

Hi there! With kids patterns it will depend on how much you are grading it up. If you are grading a size or two then you will get away with it. But if it is a lot of sizes then it might not work. You also have to think about your shape compared to a kids shape, teens and adults are a different shape to children. In womenswear females generally have more curves, a cup for the bust is drafted and shaping through the waist and hip area, which doesn't happen on kids clothing. I hope this helps? Aneka

Hello, it depends on what pattern you are working with? You will need to compare your measurements to the pattern you are working with. Not all patterns are the same unfortunately, there is no such thing as standard sizing. Aneka

Hi Vivian, it's a little more tricky. You will need to work out how much smaller you want the pattern to be, then you will need to divide that by 4 seams (the side seams, front and back, x 2). And reduce the pattern that way. Does it make sense? Aneka

Can you explain this? I couldn’t understand

You will need to decide on how much you want to add or remove. Then divide this by 4 (because most of the time you will grade at the side seams, and there are 4 side seams, front x 2 and back x 2). Then remove or add to those seams. Does that clear it up? Let me know what you don't understand. Thank you, Aneka

What you are doing is correct, you may find you need to come out for the waist, based on your shape. Make up a sample and check it.

Hi Lisa, if you had a group of sizes you can copy the size below to grade up to down. In children's wear like in women's wear you will find that the grading usually jumps in larger increments between some sizes. But at least this is a starting point if you can't find a pattern in the right size. Aneka :-))

Sorry, a little unsure of your question? This tutorial simply teaches how to grade on commercial dressmaking patterns that already exist, so how to increase or decrease the sizes. It is not a tutorial that shows how to grade a pattern professionally.

Yes Maria, just pick the sizes you want to increase and look at the finish sizes of that size. Hope that helps. Aneka x

Hi Judi, Then you might need to do a Full Bust Adjustment to a smaller size pattern? Have you watched this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/i9WZgNuZs8WsaI0.html

Yes, just follow the previous shape.

Unfortunately there is no 'right' size guide. You can look at what other companies use. But a size 8 for example doesn't need to be a specific size. Every company will work from a different base - depending on who their target customer is. Hope this helps? Aneka

Thank u

Hi Melanie, GREAT question. Of course you should not keep grading in this manner. It is really a 'quick fix' for dressmaking patterns. Usually I would teach it to a student that had bought a pattern and it didn't quite fit, so you would be increasing by one or two sizes. This is not 'proper grading', but it is an easy way for people to go up or or two sizes. You are also right in saying that a lot of industry garments don't fit, because they try and grade up too many sizes. I have 2 'base' sizes that I grade from, a smaller size and then a larger size for my new patterns. As human's increase in size not everything increases so you have to careful with sizing and grading - but this takes extra time and therefore money!

@@MadetoSew Thanks so much for confirming this. I've tried all sorts of methods to increase the size of vintage small patterns (which are usually one size only and not multisize so can't be graded using a continuous line following the sizing access points - I hope you know what I mean). Usually trying to increase from as little as a bust 34" to a bust 40". I've had limited success and it usually requires lots of fiddling and even with the most careful calculations I have to fudge the makeup stage to get everything to align. The first garment made is usually not great and I adjust again for a second garment... it's a labour of love! Or perhaps I just can't bear to be defeated! I enjoy pattern drafting tho, so that's a mercy. I'm talking about relatively simple patterns btw. I wouldn't attempt something with a lot of swathes of drape-type gathers. Yes, the problem is often around the neck, the shoulder width, the arm scyes and the cup size - all tricky points for fit and regrading. It also doesn't help that my size keeps fluctuating, so just when I've got a vintage pattern right, I've put on weight or lost weight and can't fit it anymore! I wish I had more knowledge. Training. I wish I could learn pattern drafting etc from professionals. I have Donald McCunn's book on pattern making and also Miss Haslams stuff. I haven't bothered with Haslam because although I have quite a few of her patterns, I can tell by looking at the pattern that they don't match the illustrations of the garments! The illustrations show very full, sumptuous Hollywood skirts and the patterns show very narrow A-lines! Thanks very much for responding so positively. After I'd made this comment, I felt a bit unsure that it might sound like I was criticising your video instructions - this wasn't my intention - I agree with you that this method works well and is very helpful for modern multisize patterns that you just need to go up or down a size or two at most. Best wishes and thank you for all your excellent videos. Mel xx :)

Do you hold workshops or courses? Thanks :)

@@MelanieMaguire Thanks Mel. I totally get what you mean with the vintage patterns. A number of years ago I had a lady attend a class with the MOST beautiful vintage jacket pattern, of course it was one size. In this case it was too large for me, so I tried to grade it down. However like you I still had issues with the fit of the garment in the sample. I actually ended up copying the draft on my own block, I came to the conclusion that the proportions the pattern was drafted for is different to today's proportions. For example, I got the bust, waist to work but the shoulders were still very wrong, so I think that bust, waist proportion against shoulder size was different to what it is now. Probably because we have got larger but our shoulders haven't? A very interesting exercise! Anyway, I wish you all the best with your sewing and vintage patterns. Thank you for taking the time to comment and share your sewing projects. Aneka xx

@@MelanieMaguire I am in the process of launching a range of online classes on my website (www.madetosew.com). Starting with skirt pattern drafting. I hope to have something ready in 2-3 weeks. Then I will work through some sewing, some pattern drafting, some fitting classes. Aneka x

Thanks for your question. Sorry for the confusion, these are not high street sizes, they come from the Made to Sew Copen pattern which has it's own sizing numbered from 0 upwards in an endeavour to encourage people to measure themselves and work with their own measurements rather than pick the size they think they are. This helps to get a better fitting garment.

Hi Sarah, that is a little more tricky. You will need to create and understand the grading rules that you want to apply to the pattern. Perhaps I should do a video on grading? Aneka

@@MadetoSew You're channel is the most thorough and precise sewing learning channel I've found. That would be wonderful.

@@xenonightshade Thank you Sarah. 💖

Hi April. You are welcome, I'm so glad you liked the video. And oh wow, I love hearing how other people spell it! Thank you, Aneka.

Made to Sew - oh! Aneka... cool. .. you know, it was 1997 when I was pregnant, and the name just popped into my head... my husband said "yeah! where did you find that name?!"

So lovely to hear April, I was named after a signer in the 80's called Aneka! :-))

Made to Sew - how about that! Well, I have met Ah - ni - kas, and Ah - nee - kas - and long Ah is associated with a Norse/Swede version which means "big/ bold, " and another from Africa, which means "beautiful girl." Very auspicious name. Thank you for the French seam sleeve tutorial - I have some tips to take advantage of that tidy seam now...

So lovely to hear this, I do believe it is a Norse/Swede name originally! So pleased I could help you. Aneka x