There is a video on you how to flush using AWSOM cleaner looks like it would work

Awesome! I hope it helps!

Help any ?

@@mayken6661 haven’t cracked into it yet I’ll let you know when I do

Any updates!?

It was an 05 tahoe and we sold it shortly after. Haven’t heard anything bad from the owner so it must be doing fine.

@@WeberAuto23 my tahoe is actually doing it too. Great video! Will update soon!

Hell yeah. The valve cover bolt grommets were shot on mine too. I'm assuming that's what you mean by saying bolt sleeves. But yes definitely worth it if you've dug into it that far.

Hi Buddy, I can tell U one thing,. Gm is very known for oil consumption, with those kind of valve cover, because , they call that system, ( opened system valving). Never can't avoid oil consumption. ( only catch can can keep it). But still it will comes as oil loosing. That's why, Nissan, Toyota imported trucks have closed system of valving, then they have cover. Never oil issues that their valving can shooting oil directly into valve covers. And their pcv valve never gets in direct contact with oil splashed from rocker arms etc

Hey Mike, did it stop ? I think I'm in the same boat, started a little Blue smoke at start up. Wondered if I need to drill hole, or replace covers.

@@nate5993 It did stop smokin after the oil change. Yesterday it smoked on a cold start while I was on lunch. But hasnt done it again. So 🤷‍♂️

@@mikey1000tx i would change the type of oil your using. might need a higher detergent oil. I see the rotella 5 w 40 syn has healthy detergent package.....but i want to ask what your using.?

do you have the part number for that '05 valve cover? i've seen other videos of people saying they drilled holes to help, but i'm not too keen with the idea.

A little late to the game but maybe this will help someone down the line. These intakes can hold a lot of oil, take one off and put it on a clean shop floor and you will see! Was probably just residual oil sloshing around. Only way to really tell is an oil consumption test.

Wow where can I buy that or can I use a valve cover off a newer one on my 03 5.3?

Yeah Steve don't act like you don't see our comments. We need your wisdom brother! Tell us! @Steve0885

I used royal purple for 3 oil changes every 3500 miles then had to change the engine with only 50,000 miles on it due royal garbage seizing up a few valves

@@WHIPURKIDS it didn't seize your valves your valves were already in bad shape. Your valves were royal garbage.

I use 1 quart of synthetic AT with 5 quarts of Castrol synthetic. Valve covers and top end clean. No lifter tick.

@@WHIPURKIDSthat’s not how that works…

You try the seafoam method yet?

@Jaylen Shiloh yea, I've been using InstaFlixxer for months myself =)

@Jaylen Shiloh Definitely, been using InstaFlixxer for years myself :D

For the manufacturer's "that is a normal oil consumption ",the only think you can do, is instal a oil catch can in between the pcv valve and the intake manifold, just to prevent the catalitic converter to to get damage.

Where did you get the upgraded cover at?

Have you checked to see if the side of the block just above the oil pan (front to back and left and right side) is wet??? Because my 07 Yukon was doing the same thing. Here on the left side, middle side main cap bolt (the small 10mm above the pan) was wet, and wasn't torqued to the 18 ft pounds. It might have been 8 lbs. So we pulled it out applied GM sealant to it, And reinstalled it to 18 ft lbs. And the leak and the missing quart of oil at every 2-K miles disappeared. My mechanic says its a fairly common problem they see. It doesn't look like a huge leak, but it adds up over a 3-K interval.

Best way to possibly avoid this, and a bunch of other issues!

Just update the covers to the newer style. Or do what I did and guys that race LS engines do. Find one the older sets (99-03) valve covers that had the old style PCV and the rubber grommet. Because thats what the guys that race these engines use. And then I change the PCV at 15-K miles. There cheaper than 1 qt of oil.

Yes change mine every 6 months regardless of 5000 miles or not

​@@Pyle81 so I replaces the valve cover with the new one and I'm thinking I should run the old one??

@@Pyle81 so are the new valve covers with the pcv built In trash? I think I'm consuming more oil with the new valve cover instead of the old one.

Please shut up about it already. And if you're going to make the same comment everywhere, at least learn proper English and punctuation. You sound like a bot from a foreign country

".......... for every 1 gallon of fuel you burn it will produce around 1 gallon of water." What a crackpot comment by somebody who fancies himself an expert. Just read his whole comment, folks, and have a good laugh.

Adding extra drain holes wont hurt anything, make sure u get shavings out. Adding a few extra small drain holes on both valve covers some people notice major less oil consumption, but it wont make it worse but might fix 90% oil consumption depending on millage and things. Also if you add oil catch cans even cheep set off Amazon they work wonders for keeping these motor cleaner. And less oil in your intake! The combination of the two is a big must do if u want a cleaner and nicer running ls motor. Most people even add extra drill holes to the gm updated valve covers to make them work even better just fyi. Hope the info helps man and best regards!

Do you know the part numbers for the new covers?

@@castleclubclipz Hi - I still haven't done mine so the parts are still here in my bedroom in their packaging. The left cover is 12570427 dated 7/21/21. It comes with the gasket and the 4 new mounting bolts with their grommets installed. The right cover is 12582224 dated 4/27/22 and comes with the mounting bolts/grommets and gasket. The dates I have should be new enough to be the latest. I got mine at the dealer in Layton. For the right cover, the filler tube is 12574386 in case you damage your's in the process. The new filler cap is 12573337. Mine is a 2006 5.3 and part numbers looked up via the VIN at the dealer. Hope this helps, and good luck!

@@JRobert111111 Thank you!!! Btw will you be slotting/enlarging the drain hole (underneath where the PCV orifice is located) in order to allow the oil to completely drain? I heard that although this new design is indeed better and does stop the oil consumption, but only until that small drain hole gets clogged. So, enlarging that drain hole by slicing a slot into in that portion of the baffle, apparently fixed it forever.

@@castleclubclipz I've heard of fluctuating oil pressure when those extra holes are drilled. I'm just going to leave mine as it is. I've only owned my car since May and there is slight leaking from the valve cover gaskets. I've never had any smoking at startup. So I don't know if the left valve cover has already been changed or not. It's a one-owner car with a very complete CarFax showing regular servicing at the dealer over the years (not specifics) as well as the yearly registration renewals which clearly account for actual mileage. Back in 1997 I purchased two Astro vans as part of a business, a 93 and a 94. They both had some smoke at startup from valve guide seals. I switched to high mileage oil and the startup smoke stopped after a few weeks. I sold the 94 a few years ago just approaching 400k miles with no oil burning or smoking, nor consumption and still running great. When my brother passed away in 2010, I didn't need two vans, so that's why I sold the 94. It had nice GM OEM alloy wheels and shiny paint. The 93 looks good at 20 feet, but not up close, thus I sold the 94. I still drive the 93 most of the time (salty roads, so the Tahoe stays indoors) and the 93 has not smoked at startup since 1997 as well with the high mileage oil, nor do I ever have to add any oil with 5k mile changing intervals. The 93 is about 10 miles shy of 297k miles right now and running great. Just passed emissions at the first of this month with no trouble and very low numbers. Back in May when the Tahoe oil was changed, it got the Valvoline MaxxLife High mileage oil as well as it has 106k miles. So as things are, I'm not even doing valve covers until the weather gets warm again. I'm curious to see how things look underneath, but not while it's so cold outside.

It looks like the updated valve cover, the old style doesnt have that plate he drills through.

Hi Buddy, I can tell U one thing,. Gm is very known for oil consumption, with those kind of valve cover, because , they call that system, ( opened system valving). Never can't avoid oil consumption. ( only catch can can keep it). But still it will comes as oil loosing. That's why, Nissan, Toyota imported trucks have closed system of valving, then they have cover. Never oil issues that their valving can shooting oil directly into valve covers. And their pcv valve never gets in direct contact with oil splashed from rocker arms etc.

All companies cut corners due to epa.

"manufactures cut corners" also said manufacturers build engines that can last 20 years

its a vortec.... its engineering greatest. not many corners were cut

you likely have a head gasket leak, coolant getting into the engine. Do have to top up your coolant every now and then? You could pull the plugs, if one is white clean (they should be golden), that's the issue. You could also do a coolant pressure test to see if it looses pressure over time.

@@SPM310 coolant was good all the time slowly was going down. I pulled the heads off and noticed number 7 was cleaner than the others and gasket had a pin hole. New head studs gaskets, valve seals, tsp springs, tsp push rods, trunion rockers, tsp 228r cam, ls3 lifters later coolant is always at top but pushing mad moisture out valve covers. I guess from what im told its common on short drives for it to do so. Its pretty cold in the morning and I don't even get 30 minutes of a drive to and from work. Very local. My catch can is full within 2 days of water. Don't smell like coolant at all. Its kinda annoying to be homest.

I have the exact same issue with my 06 Sierra. Have you found the solution to your problem yet? Thanks

@@bburdyshaw Yes I replaced driver side valve cover with pcv (built on) and it went away cost like $200 at autozone but got same brand online at Amazon for like $100 for same part (Dorman Product)

@Lee McCotter makes sense. I guess I was lucky for a while I had a stock pile of brake cleaner before all that inflation. It's now gone and diesel might be the way to go

I have to laugh at guys that bitch about using a quart of Diesel to clean parts in. Yet they'll spend $2.00 for a 16 oz bottle of WATER. 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

I wish they were diligent enough to make an update video on whether drilling the holes helped.

@@castleclubclipz .... I replaced the valve cover with the "updated" one but the problem persisted so I ended up taking my sub to the mechanic to do the valve stem seals. Now 3k miles and no more oil consumption 👍🏻... $500 labor fee in Houston TX 👍🏻

@@hmoreno1126 Wow thanks for that info… What exactly did they do to the valve stem seals? Just replaced them? I also heard that drilling extra holes in the baffle like in this video can cause oil pressure fluctuations, so was really curious how this turned out as well.

@@hmoreno1126 Btw when they pulled off the updated valve covers to replace the valve stem seals, was that pin hole drain clogged on the updated valve cover?

@@castleclubclipz ....yes just replaced the valve stem seals. Some were cracked and allowing oil into the some chamber. Whenever I would let the Suburban idle for 10+ min and then drive away I could see smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe. That's an indication of bad seals. Now you gave me an idea....I noticed my oil pressure fluctuating weird some times. It could be because I still have the "updated" cover on it and maybe the oil pressure makes the sensor act erroneous because the PCV valve is not removable on this new cover. I will go back to the old cover and see if that fixes the problem. I did replaced the oil pressure sensor also since the mechanic was going to clear access to it.

The 6.0 and Definitely the 6.2's don't have this problem. It was a Gen 3 issue and they've had a couple updates. The 6.2's I've seen have a completely different design when you flip them over and look at the under side of them compared to the 6.0,5.3 and the 4.8. The fix i went with was I went and found a left side valve cover from a junk yard that had the old style removable PVC and the rubber gromite. Replaced them both and went with a BLUE Fel-Pro valve cover gasket set (if you call them gaskets, There more like a preformed O-Ring material) Its the one's that my buddy uses on there 5.3 LS engine in there Drag Racing Car. And they have the covers off and back on at least once every weekend,Some times 2 or 3 times a weekend. And all they use is a little red grease on the cover side to keep them in place when they go to put the covers back on. And Yes, the old school removable PVC fixed the problem and it gets replaced every 15-K miles ( 5th oil change) No more smoking mess.

😂

haha fire size wiring harness......foreal.

white smoke or blue smoke? blue smoke is oil white smoke could be something worse

Try this first !!!! Don’t get milked by a mechanic, could be something as simple as this

I'd HIGHLY DOUBT it's your rings. Either your mechanic is older than dirt or he's trying to get into your wallet. Why?? Because I've had my hands in literally HUNDREDS of these 4.8,5.3,6.0 and now a few 6.2's. And have only seen 2 that I can recall that had "Bad rings" One was a 4.8 that had a BROKEN oil ring. And one that the inside of the engine look like they NEVER changed the oil in 285-K miles. And it was still running, just used a fare amount of oil. And the valve seals where shot. I currently have a 5.3 apart with 391-K on it. It's a Iron Block 6.0 that the cam bearing (#3) walked and eat the cam. When we measured the cylinders to see where things where at (To rebuild or to replace) The inside of the cylinder walls where PERFECT and within GM specs. The pistons showed side skirt wear (the black coating was worn off) However measured well within GM specs. When we checked the ring end gap it was between .019-.021. Today guys that are setting up LS Engines for Turbo applications to race them, the set the the ring end gap at .024-.030. To give you a comparison. So they plan is tomorrow (11-1-22) is you slam a set of cam bearings into it. A new cam and lifters. And new valve seals. We're putting the SAME pistons and all the same rings right back in the same place they came from. We did decide to put new rod and main bearings in ($12.00 and $27.00) And we are updating the oil pump bypass spring and new oil pump pickup o rings. Along with a complete gasket set. And a updated set of Valve covers from Summit Racing with the removable/replaceable PCV valve in the rear left cover ($54.00) And we will modify the (search for the video) the filter bypass in the oil pan also. And do a plugs and wires tune up on her. By Thursday she'll be back in the truck and back to her happy home probably Friday by noon, ready for another 200-K or more. We've done several of these in the last 3 yrs. With trucks and vans holding there value, its hard not to fix them if you can. And had this customer decided to go with a create reman or a new GM engine. We/I would have eaten the core charge, And kept this engine and rebuilt it our selves for our own use. Good seasoned 6.0 Iron Blocks are getting tuff to find cheap. And $300.00 for a core is cheap, When you get everything else with it.

Around 170k I think

I'm sure drivetrain and class dosen't matter, as long engine it's gm 4.8 5.3 or 60

Yes just change the valve cover simple fix

Yes. Take it off and clean with carb cleaner or replace it, in this case u must replace the whole valve cover since pcv is built in

Mine blows a little white smoke after idling. Never on start up. I replaced the original valve cover with an after market, it was good for a while, and now I’m getting “that smell” again. GM has since modified the original valve cover with a bigger hole on the right side. Even with the larger hole, this time I purchased and OEM, added these holes and see what happens. At least it’s a fast fix, it literally takes 15 to change.

An easy way to tell if you have a PCV issue is to take off your valve or line and see if it has any oil in it. If it does, then you have an issue with the PCV valve

Hi Buddy, I can tell U one thing,. Gm is very known for oil consumption, with those kind of valve cover, because , they call that system, ( opened system valving). Never can't avoid oil consumption. ( only catch can can keep it). But still it will comes as oil loosing. That's why, Nissan, Toyota imported trucks have closed system of valving, then they have cover. Never oil issues that their valving can shooting oil directly into valve covers. And their pcv valve never gets in direct contact with oil splashed from rocker arms etc

@@regentsuper3086 I still wonder if my valve seals are worn, no smoke though.

@@fish4fun354 Most likely, if no smoking on the start Up. So 99% valve seals are ok. Just for preventing, keep adding at each oil change, 1/2 quarter of Lucas Engine leak Stop

@@regentsuper3086 You can quit saying this over and over. People are here because thay have a GM product they are trying to fix. Nobody cares that you prefer nissan and toyota.

Hi Buddy, I can tell U one thing,. Gm is very known for oil consumption, with those kind of valve cover, because , they call that system, ( opened system valving). Never can't avoid oil consumption. ( only catch can can keep it). But still it will comes as oil loosing. That's why, Nissan, Toyota imported trucks have closed system of valving, then they have cover. Never oil issues that their valving can shooting oil directly into valve covers. And their pcv valve never gets in direct contact with oil splashed from rocker arms etc

i know buying the updated valve cover works great .. Thats what i did and stopped my oil consumption

@@tristatetrifecta - Thanks for the info.

@@regentsuper3086Nobody cares. STFU

Well there is, it’s just made into the valve cover on this year of 5.3 and isn’t replaceable. You have to buy a new valve cover if you want to replace it.

No, there isn't. It is called a metered orifice. It is an updated valve cover design from GM that replaced the PCV valve. GM blamed it for the oil consumption issue, which was not the problem.

@@dfre6422 what was the problem?

NO. Two different things. You may have a plugged pick up tube in the oil pan or the O ring has become brittle around the pick up tube.

@@jewllake Okay thanks a lot I'll have it checked out

Take your oil pressure switch out and clean or replace filter

No but its well known that there is a screen at the back of the intake that gets plugged.

Replace the oil pressure sensor and a 5/16 bolt to get the little screen under it

Could be. We’ve never taken the valve covers off a 4.8 to see if they’re made the same way.

I'm thinking it's the same for my gmc sierra1500 2005 ...

Same, the only difference between the two is stroke.

@@WeberAuto23 only difference between a 4.8 and a 5.3 is stroke. They even use the same block.

same thing aswell for the early ls1 5.7 aswell just did this on my 2000 c5 corvette

We actually sold the vehicle shortly after. We did talk to them once after and it was doing great. We haven’t heard anything bad from them so we’re assuming all is good still

Great! (What's another 15m wasted... idono....)

I have a 2006 Silverado with 5.3. It had started puffing out a cloud of smoke when starting because of pulling oil through the pcv into the intake. I bought a new valve cover for the pcv side which has been redesigned for this. Changed it a week ago today. So far it hasn't puffed any smoke upon starting.

I was thinking the same thing,lol..

He's a man not a lady

Really?! That’s what you took from the video 🤦🏻‍♂️ 😂

Gloves are u a miss ?

When cancer hits snd chemo starts it won’t be a mancho thing then. Plus E.D. will be a bummer too.

It appears he's using conventional oil cuz it will do that. Has nothing to do with buying a real truck. Many different ones besides GM have this oil consumption problem. It's one that the Makers don't want to fix though. Only I haven't heard have the problem is Toyota.

@@billmonroe8826 I am a retired mechanic of over 25 years... people think you don't have to change oil but once every 100000 miles

@@scottrussell6717 You don't have too. But I wonder if those same people don't change their kids' diaper either. lol

@@billmonroe8826 It's a shame some car manufacturers cut corners when building these engines,smh...

Natty gas Pennzoil synthetic. (And ethanol free gas only goes in the LQ9 o'mine) Edit: these things like to "clatter" even if not aluminum blocked.