I literally lol when I read this. Good job.

But then you'll have problems again...

👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

Lol

funny as shit

I remember the first time I opened a hood and seen a plactic intake and thought, 'there goes the days of good ol motors' whats up with building motors with plastic parts anyway, bunch of cheap basxxxx's..what everyones take on the ford 4.0 SOHC, 3 tining chains running through plastic guide and rail 'cassettes'' sad.or Dodge building the most rrestrictive air inntake that looks like a half of a beer keg. The future of cars is getting bleak.....I came up in the 60's and 70's, best era ever for cars and we had the best music too......lol

@@jamesmoore3346 Agreed on best music! Can't go with you on best cars. I love old muscle like the next guy but nowadays, cars are soooooo much more reliable and run so much better for so much longer than ever. In the old days, 100,000 miles was considered high mileage. Now? 100,000 miles is just getting broken in. (I decided to change my spark plugs at 175,000 miles because I figured "damn...they gotta be worn!" They were like new except for obvious discoloration). 300,000 miles on my 08 6.0liter. I've changed the broken exhaust manifold bolts and the shrunken oil pickup tube o-ring. Still has original water pump, alternator, fan clutch, fuel pump, front brakes, starter, muffler, exhaust manifolds, transmission, rear diff, PS pump etc. Never touched the ice cold A/C! BY FAR THE BEST VEHICLE I HAVE EVER OWNED!

@@jamesmoore3346 aluminum intakes leak air because of large pores in the aluminum, so they switch to plastic, so the mass air flow sensor can do a better job of keeping up with the amount of air that going into the engine. back in the 80's and 90's the carmakers would coat the inside of the aluminum intakes with some kind substance not sure what it was, but it sealed the intakes better from leaking vacuum.

@Jaron Flanagin Now you're just angry.

I have an 04 Tahoe 5.3 2wd. It was making a clicking (sounded like a U joint originally but got louder) from under the hood. It got louder when accelerating and would follow shifts. Playing with drive reverse neutral on up and down hill changed the sound or made it go away. If it was gone and I put it in reverse still gone, let it roll on the brake and it’d come back, drive and let it roll it’s gone again. Then a week ago driving 45 uphill something snapped. No power to the transmission and weird noises, rolled it to a stop quickly, still running but chuggin. To park and it made a slam so I turned it off. tell me how to fix it. I’m desperate. I changed the trans myself 9 months ago, and I don’t want to do any unnecessary work. But I want to save it and not do a full engine like everyone is advising. Thanks!! UPDATE: it sounds like lifter tick!! But I let it go farther than all the videos I’ve seen. What do I do!

one of 10000.....

I bet you take really good care of your truck... You should pat yourself on the back, because a lot of people don't.

I have 365,000 on my 2000 5.3, it's only had a rear main seal replacement, rear end rebuild and front end rebuild. Everything else is stock, I still tow my 7,500 pound camping trailer and gear about 15 times a year with no problem at all.

@@samduran5180 pull at 3500 to 4k is not pulling with ease 5.3 has to 2500 to do 70 with a lawnmower

@@austinhowze6280 Of course but still a great testament to longevity.

Second

@@ramirodiaz4545 Third!

Me too. I lost interest in Hoovie’s channel.

I didn't even skip the adds. You're a true wizard.

@68Camaro RS/SS fixed 😙

3 of them truck had 320000 on it now 195,000 cluster fucked again

Lol!

And fuel pumps.

The gauge cluster is not part of the engine. 🤦🏻‍♂️

Hub and bearing

But how much boost are you feeding it?

Nice bro' you should race it "

Craig Pasquinzo I ls swapped my drier. Spins it, provides the heat, and provides that ls fresh scent.

@@TheMattc999 Like race gas. ?

I bet the timer started acting up didn't it

Exactly. Some of these aren't problems. A belt tensioner isn't meant to last forever. They wear out. Any belt and tensioner should be replaced every now and then. Same with that gas tank vent. If you properly clean your vehicle regularly, that "problem" most likely will not occur. It's not even engine related, as the title suggests.

V8 BMW with Vanos, oil change: $561.34 and $230.74 for *A* brake pad V8 Chevy LS series: $238 for all 4 Rotors, Pads, and oil change with a free tire rotation

@@kanaanlopz Sir , I've had Ford and GM and lots of BMWs. The GM LS product is by far the easier to maintain and affordable. It may not be as fancy as a BMW or have that option the Ford does but gosh a couple hundred bucks to fix the whole thing to be is priceless compared to my exper. with Ford/BMW. I honestly will never buy another BMW V8, the M62 and N62 motors killed my wallet. I like the 6 cylinder X5 (E53 chassis) but dang it the door handles break off every few months, kids kill the windows switches. The old Tahoe is hanging in there, thirsty but gosh more reliable.

Same here, I've had two BMW v8's and they were the most unreliable cars I've ever owned and insanely pricey to repair. 100k miles is a death note with those. All of my LS engines have gone over or close to 300k which is when I've sold them still running great. Biggest problem I've had was a heater core that went out at 289k on a Silverado. Other than that it's just been oil changes and brakes. The bmw is really nice when it's right but it cost far too much to keep them going.

those are not maintenance, but repairs. Also only the common problems not a full list. There's many better engines, compare with Japanese not BMW

I just had to replace my difficult oil pressure sensor on my 6 L vortec on my 2005 Hummer H2. Had to do the same thing except taking off the fuel rail but I had to unbolt the latch mechanism for the hood and put it out of the way because the hoods on Hummer H2S open forward like old Corvettes.

Been there on that one !!!

Just replaced mine. My oil guage went from 80psi down to almost 0psi. Did some research on youtube and found out I need an O ring tube. Once I install the o ring my oil pressure was normal

Have that problem. Dread having to sweat, struggle, and cuss getting to it.

I read it was a pain in the ass and remove this remove that. I removed nothing but the sensor. Took me 20 minutes. Easy job. 06 L59. 🤷‍♂️

Amen!!

Daniel Fricke 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

I think older ones. Not sure about new ones. Seems those have gremlins. Me and my parents have high mileage trucks. Burn oil. But never let us down. My dad already hit 500k last month.

Twisted , had to do that on mine. But just cleaned mine as there was not a updated one 8 years ago.

is that issue on the 07+ engine or on the older 2002--06 engines as well?

@@lexbrusb.1821 I’ve reap a couple forums where most stated in was in the 07+ because the PCV is integrated into the valve cover if I’m not mistaken. My 02 suburban has the Pcv separate from the valve cover

@@lexbrusb.1821 YEP its on the 05 because i replaced my valve cover and it works perfect!

Just bought a very nice '01 one owner Suburban with 297,000 miles. It had an oil change done 500 miles before I bought. I've owned excellent 6 days and noticed 2 quarts low on oil. No cold start or any drivability issues. I'll change the valve cover and see.

Michael Schneider I agree,& I have a the 1st year they offered the LS 5.3L in my ole 1999model Chevy LT Z71 OFF ROAD 4x4.

@@kevinroark4346 any problems?

Michael Schneider I’ve had some of these problems on my 4.2 LS

Congrats but that was already said in a previous video...

He is!

Happy little tree fresheners

Guessing Ford 3 valve 5.4's are the happy little accidents? Haha

He's not all that happy when describing them, lol. We'll just call them accidents.

Those aren't engine related problems? Also add flakey TPS.

David Regan half of what the wizard mentioned wasn't engine related... I mean come on, the clusters? Really?

Ryan Adam so coolant temp, oil press, tachometer are not engine related? Lol

Brian Hardwick no, not when its the gauge its self thats wonky.

Ryan Adam okay true but even it’s the gauges wonky out, still need to monitor your engines vitals right?

If I'm not mistaken, the fuel issue he's referring to is an issue I've had on my GM vehicles where it is very difficult to pump fuel due to poor venting of the gas tank. The fuel pump pushes fuel out of the tank into the rails/injectors. A bad fuel pump would not dictate an inability to load fuel into the tank. Rather the opposite. When you overfill your gas tank as some people call "topping off", you have spillage into your charcoal canister (also known as the evap canister) usually mounted above the rear differential. It is an activated charcoal canister with a fuel line running in, one running out, and an electronic sensor to detect small/large evap leaks. The activated charcoal comes in contact with gasoline, shrinks, and then gets caught in the lines running to the gas tank, thereby clogging the inlet and making it very difficult to pump fuel. Edit: This can be solved by dropping the gas tank via the two straps, removing the lines, and blowing them out with compressed air to remove the charcoal bits. A bad charcoal canister can be diagnosed by taking it off of the bracket and turning it upside down. If charcoal spills out, it is bad. It comes from GM and aftermarket manufacturers (I've had both) with a fiberglass layer inside of the canister to prevent the beads from running through the lines. I only figured this out after replacing the canister, vent valve, vent valve solenoid, and the purge valve. Another dummy test would be a faulty o-ring in the gas cap... always buy OEM for safety systems.

My suburban leaks a little oil, guess I'm gonna have to check the oil pickup gasket next to the filter. May even be something I can do myself!

That's gm for ya.. Older than dirt, ran to hell and still gets you home.

I'm at 396k and still runs like a sewing machine

I've got a 1/2T 2wd 4.8 and I'm surprised at the power, and mpg ain't bad either.

Have 360k on my 4.8 tahoe 280k on my 5.3 burb. Both run like champs

Yup, 325k on my 02 Silverado 5.3ltr. Starts every time I turn the key. A few of the problems he's mentioned, but minor inexpensive stuff. Great motors.

oldrider steve I literally just sold a 97 formula with 350,000+ on its lt1 and itd scream like the devil was after it. Itd boil the tires off for 2 blocks fishtailing

@@getchasome6230 i have a 96 LT1 Z28 that still has plenty of balls. she will still shread tires. i had the trans rebuilt and upgraded last year, had the better stuff put into it including 2,200 stall converter, shift kit, better bands, spregs, ect ect. the car has 246K on it. runs strong. no im not selling it LOL

@Rick Simpson Gm came out with a new 6.6 gasser as well

@Rick Simpson Yeah here you go kzfaq.info/get/bejne/f6tynLmpnbi7YaM.html That ford 7.3 looks promising I will say. Chevy is going direct injection while the ford is going back to old school port injection. Apparently the ford 7.3 is a big block even though Ford has not made the big block for years. Gm made the 8.1 liter till 2006 which was a big block but this new 6.6 chevy is based on the small block. Ford may have it beat but both should be good work horses

Small block chevies were junk, from a reliabilty standpoint, until major changes were made to them in the mid 80's.

OTC makes a tool to disconnect it, and I'm not talking about the ones with the Jesus clips (like the transmission cooling line connector) I ran into this problem last week on a 2015 Silverado with a V6, 4.3 (looks like a mini LS1 I might add, all aluminum) they are 3/4 inch and are a quick connect, it takes an extra deep & thin release tool to get these off 6046 OTC

Yep!

Mine just blew on a bridge...cheap shit...n took out my newly repaired oil sender, so op gauge is all wiggy again...yep a real double whammy....$

I had these cheap plastic elbows disintergate on my 04 GTP when i got on it....sad shit

@@joemonbluesandbbq1438 the aftermarket makes metal elbows to replace those for 10 bux. Overall that engine is pretty great. Agreed that they should have been better from the factory.

Get ready for that trans to go at any time. lol. Luckily, they are pretty cheap to have rebuilt.

Jim M I like how everyone compares this to fords worst engine lmfao

Haha, I’m having to replace my front end stuff too on my 01 Silverado. Only lines at 300k!

@@trizkial7592 well yeah, they came out around the same time and were used for the same purposes, I wouldn't call it a wild comparison. Any older ford v8s are absolute dinosaurs

Common misconception that the 5.4 is bad in all forms. 2 and 4 valve versions are great. Super reliable engines.

Thanks DeadAim!

He mentioned this in the video

I have a 2005 Tahoe with the 5.3 ( LM7) engine. My oil pressure stays normal until I step on the gas. The oil pressure drops to zero and stays at zero. Check Engine Light does not come on and " Low Oil Pressure" does not illuminate on the dash. I have no idea what could be wrong. Engine doesn't seem to make noise either when this happens. Maybe a little tick but I have to really listen and pay attention. Any ideas? This generation of engine doesn't have the screen around the oil pressure sensor

Yep!!! that should be in the top of the list.

@@jaredchampagne2752 He mentioned the Oring in the oil pan. The sending unit sits drivers side at the very back of the engine. Pain to get to.

Yep. 265K on my 6.0. Has piston slap when cold. Still pulls hard AF.

Really and nothing has to do with the long block. Its not like they spit spark plugs (Ford) or lifters that eat cams (Dodge).

@@Tsalinger my 2000 z71 has 300k and still pulls hard

T salinger1026 actually... unfortunately due to displacement on demand(cylinder deactivation) in the 5.3L eco tec v8. The lifters will chip cams. If it wasn’t for that, they would be bullet proof

My ford 4.6 4v still pulls at 158k

Hate to complain about videos because some people get good out of them. But some of the videos involve nothing more than idiocy and teach all kinds of bad stuff. Embarrassing sometimes.

Mine is a 2003 HD 2500 with 6.0 -how do I know if it has iron heads? And what is the advantage?

@@gregl2249 are the heads made of iron? That should be easy to tell.. aluminum is brighter but they can look similar, if you arent able to tell, use a magnet.

She would've been fired for that if she was my employee.

If u never hire em, u don’t have to fire em

ALUMINUM HEAD... I DRILLED MINE OUT, TO 1/4 " USED A TAPERED SQUARE EASY OUT, USING A AIR HAMMER HELPS AS WELL TO FREE IT UP BEFORE THE HEAD OF THE BOLT IS TWISTED OFF.

There is "WD40 rust release" and i would try tapping with a manual impact to get those bolts to dislodge. Hit it with WD40 and work them back and forth a bit. If you have the time give it a few days. Ford exhaust manifolds are worse than this.

I love my cvpi

@Todd m I would say f that for $400. Couldn't you put a toggle switch or direct wire the headlight switch to run the relay and bypass the module? I know this wouldn't be the "right way" to fix it, but if it only effects the high beams, I don't think your going to get much for the car when you sell it anyway.

Although the A1 vid says brushclean carefully and repaint on the axle where the wheel sensor pickup is. Then it might not be the control module.

Yep, when the cost of a simple 1500 sq foot single family home is approaching $400-500k, everyone about needs to be a millionaire to afford to live here any more. Wait until the drought and water overusage fees this year in 2020.

@@eastmanresearch3143 Try Vancouver BC. One to two thousand dollars per square foot

Hit the ground running on eBay I had one fixed for $67 plus shipping. Works perfect now 2003 Yukon denali

H General Motors baby yeah!!!!🙋