Thanks! Unfortunately I had to take the website down but im working on getting it moved to a new domain soon. The new site will be Nightanddaymarine.com once I'm finished building it. I will announce it in a video once it's complete.

@@nightanddaymarine8823 please do .. these tutorials are most helpful 🎣👍

It all depends on you, honestly! If you are younger and your vision is great then the 7 is an awesome unit. However, if your vision is a little impaired because you are getting older (nothing wrong with that ;-) ) then I would recommend the 9 inch. Tho I can tell you I am 38 and I'm about to buy a 9 inch just because I personally like the bigger screen. Both sizes have the exact SAME functionality!

They will stay the same for the specific page u make the changes on, even if it's a split screen.

If you are referring to purge in the sense of the files menu then it relates to removing all deleted files. For the Hook 2 it doesn't really have much relevance. Its mostly used for the network able units like the Elite TI/FS or the HDS. It tells the display to either share waypoints when first connected to one another, or to delete waypoints from the connected display. The Hook2 doesn't network but uses the same software platform so the purge function is still there.

Hey if you got to Amazon and type in your unit at the bottom where it shows frequently bought together tab, it’s on their. I almost forget to order mine.

There is a calculation that you can use to determine the size of the cone on the bottom based off of the angle of the frequency. The 200khz or high chirp you take the depth times 0.3 to get the cone size. 83 khz is basically the depth=cone size for a 60 degree beam.

So the downscan and sonar are basically viewing the same area. It's however, the downscan is a very narrow slice so you really need to be moving for it to work properly. The width of the beam depends on the frequency. The 800 kHz is only about a 20 something degree angle and the 455 is around 50 degress.. so the deeper the water, the further the fish can technically be to the right or left of your boat.

I believe if you go into your overlay data menu, you can choose to inverse the overlayed data and make the letters white instead of black.

I'm not in front of my graph right now, but if there is also an option above it for down scan, then it's just an extra menu option from the same software that's used on all the Hook reveal displays. If there is no downscan option, then it will turn that feature on or off from the Pages screen.

Ya downscan with the Fish Reveal turned on. That should identify the fish with whatever color pallete you choose separating then from the color of the structure.

For structure imaging, I generally consider deep water anything over 100 ft. So the 455 is typically best for water thats less than 10 ft or deeper than 100 or if the water is really murky or dirty. And 800 any other time.

They are both similar in their cone angle. The width of the angle doesn't necessarily depend on how high or low the frequency with 2d sonar. Yes the 200 kHz is more narrow than the 83 kHz, but the 50 kHz is also more narrow than the 83 as well. Now when it comes to structure scan, you are correct in that the higher the frequency the more narrow the beam is. The downscan is a very narrow beam fore and aft. Its only wide port and starboard. About 45 degrees. 2D sonar is an actual 3d cone that is compressed for a 2d image. The chirp sonar ranges between 20 to 40 degrees in width so they use software to align the images and basically just overlay the sonar on top of the downscan so that the image aligns with one another. The beam is more narrow for the 800khz but the software takes that into account when aligning the image.

​@@nightanddaymarine8823 Aaah that explains why when I look at the specs of the transducer, it says on several retailer websites that downscan (DS) has a very small angle (between like 1-6 degrees) but then I guess they're implying as you say, the fore and aft directions of the beam. I also did not know that the 50khz sonar had a narrower angle than 83. So I guess you could describe the DS sonar shape to be more that of a flat triangle, not entirely but close to it, and the CHIRP sonar to be the shape of a cone in a cubic measurement? (IE, 3D as you described it) But so what I gather from your answer: when you use the DS screen/option with FishReveal, it DOES indeed combine the two sonar frequencies to give you the best possible image, or am I getting you wrong? Thanks!

@@SolrosenGaming it shouldn't be combining the 200 and the 83. Now I'm not in front of my unit right now but I'm pretty sure that you can still choose between the 2 frequencies for the sonar to be used on the fish reveal feature. You correct in that the DS is a very flat triangle and the 2d sonar is a cone shaped signal. I sometimes have a hard time wrapping my head around how they turn a 3d cone into a flat thin. From what iv gathered, even though it's a cone, the display only shows what is directly beneath and to the right an left of the transducer when it displays the picture on the screen. It doesn't read forward and back very much. As it draws the image on the screen the downscan only draws very narrow slices of image at a time where the 2d sonar is able to draw larger sections at a time. Its which if you sit perfectly still with 2D sonar, you will get a repeating line drawn across the screen sometimes when a fish is sitting still and the bottom will still continue to change as well until it repeates itself. With DS, it will just continuously redraw the same image over and over and just kind of becomes a blur unless you are moving or drifting. Like I said, ita kind of hard to wrap your mind around how it's showing a 3d picture on a 2d screen.

​@@nightanddaymarine8823 Well I was asking if the CHIRP/2d sonar (200/83) and Downscan sonar (455/800) was being combined when using Fishreveal on the Downscan image, not the two different CHIRP/2d. I was thinking that if the case was that the two sonar types (DS and CHIRP/2d) are combined into one on the Downscan image with Fishreveal activated, then there'd basically be no need to use the regular CHIRP/2d sonar image, however I guess that isn't the case? I'm guessing the Fishreveal option does just make fish more prominent on your Downscan image, but the sonar angle is still very small (fore and aft that is) so it's function stays the same, making it the most useful for "scanning" structure and fish while on the move. Whilst the CHIRP/2d sonar is better for finding more fish overall since it has that wider angle and an actual cone shape. If this is the case, would you recommend just switching between the two depending on the situation, or simply just use a split screen with both active at the same time for maximum fishfinding efficiency? Thanks again for your replies! I'm a fishfinder beginner and just want to fully understand this specific feature. Through my research I do indeed understand how the sonar picks up echoes and then redraws that into the scrolling 2d image we see on our screen , so that part I understand.

@@SolrosenGaming It does combine the 2d sonar and downscan. It takes anything that is in the water column area of the 2D sonar and just overlays it on top of the downscan so everything aligns properly. The older models a tally did the opposite. They would overlay the downscan on top of the sonar but it was too much information and cluttered the screen. It was difficult to use. I personally only use the downscan screen with the fish reveal turned on. It's the most efficient way to use the display. Occasionally I will switch to just regular sonar but I honestly can't see a reason to use downscan without the fish reveal turned on.

Using the fish reveal on your downscan screen will be your biggest asset to use when your new with it. I would also look out for the arches with the most yellow in them. Those will be the biggest fish generally.

Thank you

No they do not have the connections required for that. You would need an Elite TI2 or FS at the very least to connect to a trolling motor.

Does it give you dashed lines on your depth overlay or zeros?

@@nightanddaymarine8823 Thank you for the quick reply!!! Its dashed lines

@@user-br7sw2cu4i ok well if it gives you dashed lines, but the temperature DOES show up and you are certain the transducer is installed correctly and the long underside of it is pointed strait down when in the water, then I'd say you most likely have a bad transducer.

It could just be a bad display or possibly electrical interference. You might do a dead test and make sure that no other electronics on besides the display when in the water and see if it still shows the static. And also make sure you not running power off of your trolling motor for the display.

Was this on your downscan? If so do you have your fish reveal turned on? Also what color palette are you using?

Yes they will be unless you also have demo mode turned on.

@@nightanddaymarine8823 Thank You! I was told to never turn on the Demo mode, too hard to get out of it.

Hmmm... did you install the transducer yourself or was it professionally done? It kind of sounds like the transducer isn't level. If it's not that then it's possible you just have a bad transducer.

Or you might want to check and make sure the transducer plug is pushed all the way in at the back of your display. There are 3 ribs on the plug and all three should be fully seated into the back of the display. You shouldn't be able to see any of them when it's fully plugged in there.

@@nightanddaymarine8823 ok that was my guess. I used the same bracket from my old old which worked great. The level may be the issue, I'm going to play with it some more before I send it back. Thanks for that help

However if the temp isn't working either, then I doubt it's the placement of it. Most likely it's either the plug not pushed in all the way or it's just a bad xdcr.

@@nightanddaymarine8823 crap... the plug is all the way in, guess it's going back

Some ppl like the quick reference and the ability to see the depth if they are not standing right next to the display which most ppl arnt when their fishing

@@nightanddaymarine8823 point taken

Do the options show up to select when you press your Pages button?

@@nightanddaymarine8823 only chart and Sonar and a combination of chart and sonar

@@pieterkruger4134 and did your come with the hdi splitshot transducer or the long skinny tripleshot?

@@nightanddaymarine8823 I'm not sure. Just told the supplier I want that scan options. Is it possible that I selected the wrong transducer at settings? I remember it was on some kind of setting there and changed it.

@@pieterkruger4134 so that one will only do traditional sonar and downscan. It won't do sidescan. I would connect the transducer and make sure it's plugged all the way in, and then do a reset on the unit by pressing and holding the + and - buttons and then turn the display on while continuing to hold the 2 buttons until you hear a double chirp sound. That should then give u the downscan option.

If your unit has an X in the name like a Hook 7x reveal then it won't have built in mapping.

@@nightanddaymarine8823 It is Hook Reveal 7xSS

It's probably a Hook2

You can go into the system settings and select 'About' and it will tell u the model.

No there is not. Only scroll speed is on the 2d sonar.

@@nightanddaymarine8823 SO IF U OVERLAY DOWN SCAN INTO THE SONAR WILL DOWN SCAN SYNC TO THE SONAR SPEED

@@MIKE-mg5ks if you overlay the downscan onto of the sonar then yes they will sync up in speed. However, if you do the fish reveal where it overlays the sonar onto of the downscan then it will only go at the same speed as the default for downscan.

@@nightanddaymarine8823 ok thanks. I noticed this Drift fishing when I had the screens split. It was annoying.

If doing a soft reset on the display doesn't help, then it is a problem with the temp probe inside the transducer. You do the reset by turning the display off, then press and hold the Pages button. Then, while holding that button, press and release the power button to turn it on, but continue to hold the pages button until you hear the display make a chirp sound and then release it.

Did Soft and hard reset will try again thanks the. Water up here in Michigan is not 85

@@patrickcieslak7858 ya my bet is that you will need Lowrance to send u a new transducer.

I suppose it could be both. If you turn on you Fish Reveal option it should show you the arch over the top of it to help you determine what it is.

@@nightanddaymarine8823 I don't get any ar he's just dots ryan

Ryan this is on the down scan with fish reveal if I've say blue back round I'm getting red dots then I'm also getting bigger images that are yellow I presume the bid yellow ones are big fish and the red dots are smaller fish

Ryan it's all good I've sorted it now thanks 👌

@@paddypowergraham5356 can't always rely on the size of the arches or color dots. Granted the yellow is a harder return and more likely a fish or larger fish, however a small fish in the center of your sonar beam can appear the same as a large fish at the edge of your sonar beam.

If you are using the fish reveal option, you should be able to see the arches over the top of the downscan image of the fish. It's much easier to see them that way.

If you are moving, they should show up as actual arches, if you are sitting still they will typically show up as dashes or strait lines across the screen if they are not moving around much.

@@nightanddaymarine8823 Thanks. Do you have a video that goes over it.

@@tucsonarizonarealestate I think the Reveal Sonar video does some

The hummingbird user interface is actually significantly more difficult to use than the Lowrance. In fact almost all other brands interfaces are far more complicated. They are just not intuitive. So if your having a hard time with this one, your going to find the Humminbird a nightmare to use.

@@nightanddaymarine8823 I have owned several Hummingbirds. Hummingbirds are so much better that there is no comparison. This Hook7 is just plain junk in comparison. I have had it over three years now and have had enough of it. I got much more usable information from my 2003 year Hummingbird with 3D with wide side than I ever got from this thing. And that one never hung up on me or had any software bugs. I thought I was upgrading when I was massively downgrading. I am a very senior level engineer and have designed many systems and user interfaces. Everything from fighter jet displays, submarine displays, control systems, diagnostic systems, networking equipment and web pages. The Hook7 interface is not intuitive in any way, shape or form and is buggy as hell. There is no excuse for selling equipment with so many major bugs. Who does Lowrance think they are? Microsoft? As a software engineer who has written hundreds of thousands of lines of code, I am offended by such poor engineering and attitude. I would never, ever buy anything from Lowrance again for that reason alone. My opinion would probably be higher were it not for the ridiculous number of major bugs. Blue screen of death. Seriously? That was a Windows NT thing in the late 90s. Losing all configuration settings and then defaulting to the lowest brightness setting so the screen can only be seen in the dark? Seriously? How could they have done worse? Whoever made the decision to release such junk should be fired immediately so they can't mess anything else up.

@@nightanddaymarine8823 I can say a lot more bad things about Hook7 if you would like. Like how hard it is to get the down transducer to work at speeds over 20 mph. Hummingbirds work up to 45 mph. I can go on and on if you would like.