As a nerdy mechanical engineer and "car guy" who's spent a whole career in the energy industry, I can confidently say that this is one of the best and most accurate videos ever done. And I own a Powerboost. Thanks for taking the time to do this - should be a good resource for all the Powerboost drivers who wonder where their MPG went...

Excellent! Thank you!

I do most of this stuff already but it's a very well explained video. The hardest thing is really fighting your own impatience and trying not to hold up traffic. Traffic lights suck in my city but that's beyond our control. The one thing I rarely do is draft trucks because I like to be able to see at least 2 or 3 vehicles ahead of me.

Awesome video thank you for explaining everything!

Thanks for the detailed tutorial. Im gonna implement these on my 3.5L Camry. I'll be happy to get ~40 MPG. Currently getting 21 MPG.

I'm just two weeks into my new '23 3.5XLT PB 4x4. I live in coastal FL where hills aren't a thing, all flat but for a bridge here and there. Your video has shown me I'm on the right track to working with the electric mode and understanding it better. thank you!

Great explanations, and real world examples.

Thanks for a really useful video. I'm new to the powerboost and I learned something here..

great video, but ignore tire pressure placards, use chalk method if you want best fuel mileage and traction.

Wow I'm impresed. I'm retired now, but I worked 50 years as either an engineer or as a mathmation. I found your analysis as accurate and very useful. THANKS!

One factor people forget is that larger tires equal a larger circumference. Unless you have recalibrated the speedometer and odometer using Forscan or having a dealer do it, you're indicated speed and mileage will be incorrect. This, in turn, means that your indicated fuel efficiency will be understated since the vehicle will actually be traveling farther per gallon than calculated. So a lot of people will think they took a larger fuel mileage hit by going to larger tires than they actually have.

2021 powerboost, I did a trip from myrtle beach to CT and averaged 60mph and 29mpg. Watched everyone pass me doing 70 to 80 which i used to do. It felt so much easier and relaxed letting everyone go by. Around town i get 24 plus mpg. I have a 2020 34 ft coachman travel trailer 7500 pounds loaded, truck has 11k towing capacity and 1600 lb payload cap. Have not towed the trailer yet, i guess that will be 7 to 9 mpg.

Just tried your tips on my 18 mile commute this morning. I strive to hypermile on this trip every day and my previous record was 34mpg. Today it was 36.7. Thank you!!

Great video

Presentation mode is exactly how my brain learns. 10/10. Going to try some of those tips with my own PB! Subscribing!

This is one of the best explanations of hypermiling I've yet found. Most of the tips are still relevant regardless of the size or power of your vehicle. I'm an avid hypermiler living in England with just about 3 years of practice - albeit with much tinier power trains than those popular in the USA. With a 2021 Toyota Yaris 1.5 litre hybrid I regularly achieved 104 mpg (84 US mpg) Since then I've down sized to a new 2022 Toyota Aygo X, 1 litre, 3 cylinder naturally aspirated ICE, and regularly get 64 mpg (53.29 US mpg) without driving slowly or impeding other road users. The only tips I can add to this excellent video is don't expect to hypermile on a cold engine or on short journeys. I warm up my engine for 5 minutes before starting all my journeys, knowing I can then confidently hypermile. Also reduce overall vehicle weight by only half filling the tank. PS. The cost of gas in the UK would make a US driver's eyes water! 👍😉🇬🇧

Just got a brand new 2023 XLT Sport 4x4 with the Powerboost engine and I’ve gotten 22 MPG since I bought it and I get 25 mpg on a lot of trips. No complaints on my end and it’s been so much fun to drive.

I've had my 2023 for almost 2 weeks now and have been doing my best to learn how to increase my fuel economy. Your videos have been a great help... This one takes the cake so far. I'll be putting on a tonneau cover in the next couple of weeks and am hoping that also helps. I do live in upstate NY so our cold season has started. The other factor is that my truck doesn't fit in my garage 🤦 Thanks again for your very detailed tutorials!

I’ve only had my 2021 F-150 PB 3.5 Hybrid for about three weeks, I bought it with only 4,100 on it, so essentially I’m breaking in this King Ranch. I love your videos. I make it a game when I know the area on two lane roads to try and use the battery as much as possible. I’ve got pretty good on hills where on the down side, I accelerate softly and can almost get to the top of the hill before the engine starts up again. Thanks for all your tips, I can’t wait to take a long trip. 🇺🇸

Nice to see Greenville in a video lol.

I do all of these regularly. I barely get 18 MPG on average. I can't say I would be better off with a Ram, Tundra or GM but I have had nothing but issues with my Powerboost F150. I have had it over a year now and its been in the shop 4 times. I got the supercab 6.5 ft bed which I know will add weight and lost fuel economy. Stoplights kill any fuel economy you recovered by hypermiling. it is frustrating to be a Ford owner. I wish I wouldn't have listened to the Ford owners I know who got lucky and got a good truck.

Great collection of tips.....in addition, I anticipate upcoming hills and press minus - button to lock out 10,9, even 8 to raise RPM's and avoid boost on gauge. Then add gears back with plus + as road crests top and flattens out or descends downhill. If you think of any significant boost on display as "sucking down excess gas", then going up hill in 7 or 8 gear with minimum boost at 2800? rpm makes more sense than 10th gear at 1400 rpm with major fuel sucking turbo boost displayed and engine lugging....lol....turbo boost = $$$$$$$$$$$

Great video. Seems most folks think they win by being first to the red light. 🙃. EV mode is like free gas especially when doing long idling .

Thanks for such a great and in depth video on this. I’m sure many will use it. FYI to everyone. Tapping on the break is not really necessary to get it to go into EV mode. If the battery is charged enough simply stop acceleration be it removing feet from pedal or turn cruise control off will do the trick.

I have noticed my truck gets better milage when in normal mode vs eco mode.

Good video, and informative. You were doing 43 in a 35 in the captured video which might be OK some places an not others if caught. So dont go busting down hills exceeding the speed limit and get busted, been there done that! Kinda makes for a bad day lol

Thank you very much for all these good explanations in your video. Listening carefully your video , I wonder, since I live in Montreal with harsh cold winters if it would be a better purchase to buy a Ram Eco Diesel versus the F150 powerboost for a best annual mpg? The speed limit to get to my job varies between 30 mph to 45 mph

For me, at the 30:20 mark. Tapping the brake to force the truck into EV mode significantly increases hill country MPG for me.

Tail gating will put you into the vehicle ahead. The adaptive cruse will limit your tail gating. You have to accelerate to tail gate and waist fuel. I am in electric mode more then 10% electric. Don’t accelerate out of turns. If you can keep it moving in electric mode you have saved and made mileage!

Years ago I was hypermiling on my back road trips to work to the maximum. Was attaining as high 28.5 mpg w my '97 F150. Than I changed shifts and wound up driving back home at 3:30 in the morning. My economy dropped immediately to something like 25 mpg. I would constantly drive 41 mph, the bottom of my overdrive gear wo adding throttle and lugging. The only thing I could recognize as having changed were the environmental factors. Most every drive home would now be cool and very foggy.

Yea, I think it is pretty much a wash. The shape of the tailgate lip probably has more influence on it. The best feature of thee Power Boost is I can use the inverter to power my little Airstream when off site without continously running the engine.

I have a 22 PB myself, I do not drive it like I should and I am one of those who drives 80-85 on the HWY. I recently drove over 8 hours round trip for a flight out of Seattle and I averaged 20.8 mpg climbing all the passes, in freezing cold and snow. Driving to the city to shop which is hwy and lots of hills I average around 18-19, in town I can get 26 or so driving a short distance. I do not really drive it for the MPG though, I just loved the truck so I bought it, rides nice, can tow, can even do well enough off road and still get decent MPG. The PB really shines in city though, I did get 29mpg driving around the city for a full day once.

Funny... I thought I was the only one that thinks this way!. I average 9.3l/100km during my work week. But have the power when needed to tow my 8000 lb travel trailer.

Very interesting. As you can see in my channel I do not have a Powerboost but I am very interested. What tires do you recommend? Any list that shows the ones with the least resistance?

You can turn off your cruse for rollout as you descend hills your adaptive cruse can stop and go in traffic and maintain slow acceleration due the vehicle speed of the cars ahead of you. Brakes charge the battery so you can stay in electric mode longer. Braking for turns will put you back in electric mode!

It's winter time and I do mostly in town stop and go driving. Getting just over 21.1 mpg in Normal mode. I found that ECO mode does not get me any better gas mileage winter or summer.

A truck is bunch of tradeoffs, and mine is very much a "jack of all trades, master of none". I have no lift and stock sized tires, but I have 33" BFG T/A KO2s. I offset that to a degree with Weld wheels that are 30# (vs 38# factory wheels), so that the extra 55# tires vs 42# stock is somewhat offset. I have a massive grill guard/bumper and tow mirrors...the tow mirrors alone have more drag than the entire Aptera vehicle. Anyway, this leads to a few insights: 1) heavier wheels/tires probably need a tune to adjust shift ranges. With heavier tires, the truck WILL NOT cycle back to pure EV above 49 MPH, but WILL NOT shift to 10th below 50 MPH, even in manual mode. This means that the best efficiency band of 45-55 MPH ceases to exist with even a slight increase in wheel/tire weight+ more aggressive tread. 2) In a similar vein, the truck prefers to be in 3rd at a stop, using 1st and 2nd as granny gears for towing. This behavior severely limits pure EV use from a stop, and would probably also benefit from tuned shift behavior. 3) Even with increased drag, good highway mileage is still possible. I got 26 MPG over a 50 mile stretch today while behind an 18 wheeler on 1 bar of ACC at 62-65 MPH with negligible wind at ~80F on 87 octane. Slower speed and drafting are vital in this barn door. 4) These trucks LOVE boost, and the big limit is the added cost of octane. Cheap E85 is probably the secret to unlocking the performance potential of these trucks, and depending upon how it is sourced, likely the greenest and potentially even the cheapest method as well. I realize that from a pure cost perspective, most folks will do best with 87, but home made renewable E85 with an ethanol tune is the pinnacle for everything but pure range per tank.

I use cruse control as much as possible. Almost alway drive in eco mode. Gravity is your friend!

I do about 80% of what you've said in the video. But learned a few things as well. My truck is a 2022 f150 powerboost Lariat 502a. 4x4 with 3.73 gears. One issue is it came with a 2.5 inch level and 33x12.5r22 12 ply f load range tires lol. They are LT tires...nitto ridge grapplers. On 22 inch fuel rims. I looked up the weight of the tires and rims and surprisingly...they dont weigh much more then what comes on the truck as far as the 20 or 22 inch stock rims and tires but obviously the tread and rubber compounds are different so the rolling resistance is different. And the minuscule weight difference...is still a difference lol...and the 2.5 inch level...all still negatives as far as effecting fuel economy. I just drove from Missouri to Tennessee...489 miles. I go 5-10 mph lower then the posted speed limits on the highway and i Got 23.1 mpg. Truck has about 7300 miles on it. I'm on a powerboost group on Facebook and other owners are telling me despite my level, and tire/rim setup...the mileage should improve once i get another few thousand miles on the truck. This was how my previous ford truck was but who knows...🤷‍♂️. Thank you for your informative and very detailed video. I really enjoyed it.

I beg to differ on the EV coach not being useful later on. Besides teaching how it behaves, it ALSO shows available EV power and/or regen capacity left. For instance, the regen capacity will drop as you keep going downhill, and EV coach would show you when you're just using your brakes. Similarly, EV driving mode will show a window that gets smaller as you use up charge, which would help you maximize how much pedal you can apply right below hybrid switch threshold. Take a look : )

I’ve owned my PowerBoost for about 3 weeks now. I was pretty much already following all your tips in this video. I live in north central Florida and I use I-75 to commute to work. The speed limit is 70mph but I set my cruise to 60mph. I’m getting 26.5mpg if I stay out of the throttle, which is not easy because this truck is such a joy to drive and has so much power. My justification for driving 60mph is that if I was going 70, all the same people would’ve passed me anyway so I might as well save myself some money since gas is $4.99 as of today. Interesting to see everyone driving 80-85mph with gas so high. Thank you for sharing this content.

Hills, drop my speed 5 mph on the CC going up hill then increase it 10 mph going down and reduce 5 mph on the level. So say 55, 65, and 60 mph. My 4.2 gets 12 mph towing my travel trailer.

I have 2021 PB with an aftermarket sliding bed cover. Any thoughts on whether is should clean it up aerodynamically speaking? So far I have not seen any appreciable difference but it has not been a side by side controlled test. On another note: I see the "Blue Cruise" now works...and works well! I guess it updated over the air. I thought I'd have to pay Ford to have that option but ....so far, so good..

I didn't look all the way through the comments here but wonder about the static effect of having a tonneau cover or shell on the pickup bed. I have been tapping the brake to go into EV mode and I'm pretty sure it has been annoying the drivers behind me. I would like to see a hack or solution to avoid having to hit the brake to turn on EV mode.

I do just about every hyper mile technique I can think of in my powerboost. I like to go fast, but knowing I have the fastest production truck on the road leaves me laughing at a lot of other vehicles as they burn 15+ dollars of gas “beating” me off the line. Besides the extremely rare case of a raptor trying to brake boost (which has happened exactly 1 time) I’ve never felt the need to give anyone the juice. I use my powerboost as a work truck though, constantly hauling 1500+ pounds of dirt, rock, or garbage around. I also live in the extremely hilly terrain of the PNW, and am still getting about 25 mpg overall. I now this doesn’t account for my driving in eastern Oregon , as it’s much flatter and the speed limit jumps to 70, but 75% of my driving happens along the coast or in the valley where speeds are governed to 65 at a max, usually no more than 55. On top of that, safe driving speeds around bends limit us to 45-55. The powerboost really excels at these speeds, and as long as I’m not in a hard turn, I can run my gas mileage up to the 30 mpg range. I find myself playing the mpg game in this truck way more often than I ever thought I would, coming from a straight piped 2004 Nissan Titan with headers, 6” lift, 37” tires, and a tune that would make you cry. I was getting about 7.5 mpg on a light-footed week. I’m now filling up every 3-4 weeks at about the same dollar figure I was filling up per week in my old rig. I feel like ford has a lot more to add to their battery, but I’m practically making money on a brand new vehicle when you factor in gas. Add that to my desire to go fast, and I’m adding almost 2 seconds to my drag time, while drinking less liquid gold?!? I’m leveling the truck next week, adding a tonneau cover, throwing 33’s on, and putting some silly expensive seat covers on ( I only have the xl as I wanted the highest payload possible) and am still hoping to achieve th 23 mpgs advertised.

I've actually gotten better economy in the mountains. If I can predict the crest of the hill I will let off the throttle some and than regain speed on the backside. Of course this works best in the West wo heavy traffic pushing you.

There was a scene in the original Batman movie with Michael Keaton where he took a turn at incredible speed because he shot a grappling hook around a light post. When you hyper mile get as close to a bat turn as you can safely. Save that momentum! When I drove a 2006 Prius I would find benefits putting the car in neutral going downhill. That car had a CVT though and I learned it didn’t hurt anything. Not sure how that would effect a 10speed like the power boost. You’d have to find if the trans fluid was still properly lubricating while in neutral at speed. Yes, you lose some Regen breaking but many times, especially when coming down a bridge, it was a good trade off.

One thing I've noticed is in stalled/stop&go traffic, is an off-brake roll forward on EV is 6A draw. But coast-brake is 20A. This is due tonthe fact that there has to be "push" from the EV vs compketely cutting out, to mimic that of our conventional ICE. And little to no regen. Hence, it may be better to leave a bit of gap before letting off brake to minimize brake-coast.

Love my baby. Named her black mamba given her stealth quick potential energy whenever she pleased! But I’ve had mine 3 months now, first 2k miles, 400 were “electric” or free energy and/or inexpensive energy

Don’t call me Shirley!

Your videos rock! Thank you so much. I do wish that this vehicle had an option/button to drive in EV mode only like our Toyota SUV has. It switches to ICE automatically when battery is drained or the vehicle hits 20MPH. 2 Questions: Eco Idle - does this feature make any meaningful difference? (I have a 2023 and can’t find any usable info anywhere, and the notes are very nebulous, making me think this is just a gimmick.) 2: is there anywhere to see the state of charge of the EV battery? I live near the top of a very dramatic hill in a part of the country where $6+/gal gas is not uncommon, leading me to wonder if some energy could be saved by fully utilizing the battery power on the way up the hill, knowing that I will be regenerating a sig amount on the way down, and if the battery is at max capacity at the top, much of my potential energy is wasted on the way down.

On freeways, I generally drive eco mode 78 cruise controlled. RPM stays at 1900. MPG 20 to 23 depending on the terrain. 87 octane Costco gas. Central Valley California.

I’m not sure if I should take mine to the shop/back to the dealer as lemon; it’s a 4x4 off road and max tow package supercrew lariat with 6’7l bed. I keep it in ECO mode 80% of the time. The dash is showing me somewhere around 16mpg. Occasional A/C use, live in the blazing South. Yes, if I reset it and drive carefully for the first few miles it can show up to 26 briefly, but under extended real driving drops down even to the 16 average. Not sure if something “broken”. (22 powerboost)

I’m not sure if I should take mine to the shop; it’s a 4x4 off road and max tow package supercrew lariat with 6’7l bed. I keep it in ECO mode 80% of the time. The dash is showing me somewhere around 16mpg. Occasional A/C use, live in the blazing South. Yes, if I reset it and drive carefully for the first few miles it can show up to 26 briefly, but under extended real driving drops down even to the 16 average. Not sure if something “broken”. (22 powerboost)

I am about to pull the trigger on one these power boost. I have read all the problems with these hybrids. Can you make me feel better and let me know if you have had any issues with your powerboost? Many thanks.

I watched with interest your video. Very well made and well researched. You put in a lot of work into your script and slides. Thank you. As a 45 year engineer in the oils and gas business, I had a question about your comment on the energy quantity of a gallon of non-ethanol gas vs a gallon of ethanol gas. With, according to you, the non-ethanol gas having more “energy” per gallon, thus giving you more energy at the tires, thus making up for the higher cost. I have not researched this statement, but would appreciate it if you clarified it, yes, I know, look at ethanol values, compare a 10% mixture, etc, etc etc, I just don’t want to reinvent the wheel if you have already done it. Can you provide some backup for the statement? I’d be very curious, as I would switch completely to non-ethanol gas if it were a break even proposition. Thank you and keep putting up well made and thought out videos. Thank you.

I tried cruise control on a long trip and it’s a big no no if you’re trying to save fuel

when the wind is at my back, I open the doors to catch an assist.

Added comment, 98% of my driving is 55 mph rural and city, probably 70/30. Most tanks are 25 to 27 mpg on 87 octane

I don't think that my adaptive cruise will let me get more than 2 seconds behind the vehicle in front of me. I don't feel like that is dangerous since I know that it responseds a lot faster than I can if the vehicle ahead slows down. I am new to your series so I have a question: Do you have an article about how the hybrid system works when pulling a heavy trailer in tow/haul mode?

I don't see much in here about coasting in neutral. I often to that to extend downhill runs on the highway. I'm waiting for my powerboost to be built in October. I assume neutral could add some additional mpgs?

Does the 3.5 PB have AFM shutting down cylinders system. And can it be shut off.

I agree with pretty much everything in your video except “forcing” it in to EV mode by lightly tapping the brake. I find it inefficient if the intention is to maintain speed. It only makes sense if you plan on a continuous deceleration. I don’t wanna go in to physics of it but it won’t yield efficient use of your “inexpensive” energy if you use it for something that comes in cheap anyway. You wanna use the cheap energy stored in a battery for something more demanding like an assistance in getting back to speed from a stop instead of forcing the ICE in to a boost due to depleted battery.

Yes, do you leave the vehicle in 4wd high or 2wd to make this conservation. Is one better than the other?

Having my best fuel run yet on the PowerBoost kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ibqjaNmVu9bWc2g.html

At the yield sign, when you accelerated did it switch to ICE or stay with EV mode? So you never know what mode it's going to be in, but learning little tricks will help conserve (like tapping the brake to kill the engine) but you still had EV, now if you would have accelerated would it have switched to ICE or stayed EV? Big question, can you decide to drive EV, and when it depletes to 15% switch to ICE and let regenerative system charge the battery like in the Lightning?

Can you stop/start delete the powerboost? I seen a new powerboost trucks window sticker and it listed stop/start delete. Was wondering how that would work?

How do bed covers impact mpg?

They should have recharged the battery with the turbos. That’s less expensive than from the drive train.

What about the ground fault detected during test of pro power boost electrical circuit? They saying it's normal? Did U guys get software updates yet? Now they daying software updates by Sept 2023. They trying to fix that issue for about 2 years now. Pls respond asap so I don't take my new truck back to the dealer. Thanks.

So, what milage were you seeing???

Wax the paint

I enjoy your channel, thanks for the quality content. I really like... am loving the Powerboost and agree with all of your advice and logic. As a life-long Toyota buyer, I even sold a disappointing 2023 Tundra Hybrid and bought a ...... Gasp.... Ford! :) Having owned multiple hybrid vehicles, my one frustration with the design is that it is near impossible to accelerate even in normal traffic without using the ICE. (I use the EV coach and am quite experienced with hybrid hypermiling... I managed 250mpg to a tank in my Volt [PHEV yes different]). The electric motor is only 41 HP trying to move a 6000 pound truck.= 146 pounds per HP). My wife's Sienna hybrid weighs 1500 pounds less and has a 54 HP elec motor. (85 pounds per HP).... My previous RAV4 Hybrid had 2 electric motors at 54HP each pulling a 3700 pound vehicle= 34# per HP. Now, I know that in the F150, the electric motor is located in the bell housing in the transmission. Therefore it's not feasible for two electric motors. And I am comparing a full-size pickup truck that can tow 12000 lb to a compact hybrid SUV. I don't expect the power boost to get anywhere close to the MPG of those Toyotas. But my main point is IF Ford had put a 60 or 70 HP electric motor into the system, we would be able to drive in normal traffic using the electric motor only for a much greater percentage of the drive. Of course a larger motor will drain that small 1.5 kw battery quicker. But, using the torque app and a OBD2 adapter, keeping track of my hybrid battery charge, I very rarely deplete the battery. Most of the time with intown driving, if I'm accelerating from a stop, I have just used the EV coach to efficiently brake to a stop recapturing 100% of my energy. [I'm surprised you didn't make a subnote regarding the physics and the impossibility of 100% recapture]. I have plenty of stored 'cheap energy' in the hybrid battery to use for acceleration, but I have an underpowered electric motor that cannot move this beautiful awesome truck off the line.

My Powerboost is only getting 18 mpg

You are confusing mechanical energy with kinetic energy. Going up a hill, unless the vehicle is travleing extremely fast to begin with on flat ground, the energy going up is mostly supplied by mechanial energy generated by the engine and not kinetic energy. Coming down the hill on the other side, all the potential energy is released as gravity pulls the vehicle down and potential energy is then transfered into kinetic energy!

@13:20 fuel octane has zero contribution to the energy per gallon of gasoline! ZERO! 87, 89,91,93 octane gasoline all have the exave SAME amount of energy! Where people get confused is if their high performance car requires high octane and they put in a lower octane, the engine management comouter will dial back the timing to reduce knock thus performance and mileage both suffer! If your vehicle is specified by the manufacturer to run on 87 octane, using anything higher will NOT gain you more power nor mileage!!! Octaine numbers are merely the reciprocal numberof the anti-knock index of the fuel additives fuel manufacturers add to gasoline and these fuel additives have zero energy component to it and does not contribute to energy output of the gasoline when burned!!!

They need more battery less towing. Have to baby the hell out of it to even get close to what they say it will get.

Better gas 🤣🤣🤣🤣yea right i got a powerboost plat and it sucks been nothn but problems i am now waiting for my v8 plat with black appearence package...trust me stay away from the garbage powerboost

Good luck buying one of these trucks, you won’t find any and if you did it will be $70,000 marked up