Sir , you can not imagine how helpful your tutorial has been to me . THANK YOU VERY VERY MUCH!!!!!
@SuburbanToolInc8 жыл бұрын
You're welcome! Thanks again for watching, we appreciate it.
@MarsAlexandre8 жыл бұрын
Ohh not only watching, subscribing and recommending to machining fellows. Excellent info and very well explained. Super grateful! Cheers!
@danloughlin27337 жыл бұрын
Mars Alexandre ""
@neilw2O7 жыл бұрын
I learned that from a toolmaker 30 years ago. My chuck on the lathe still good, first tighten to 2-3 microns!. The important thing is to always tighten in the same chuck key hole, so that the scroll is in the orientation, internally as when jaws were first ground. As well as grinding the jaws, I used a mild steel bar in the tailstock, grinding paste, and did final lapping finish on the jaws, tightening down on the bar and grinding paste. As long as jaw numbers are always sequenced the same, works a treat! Can get better than that, with the soft hammer, as it is tightened. 2-3 microns is perfect for most jobs in the lathe, (and I have a tool post grinder, too). Hope this helps ;)
@RaysGarage9 жыл бұрын
Hi Don, Great video and excellent results! Thanks for sharing. Regards, Ray
@oldschoolmobile2 жыл бұрын
That is such a great lesson! This is why I love learning form experienced old timers! I would have never figured that one. In our shop, we always just cut jaws to fit whatever job we're running if it's critical. I can't ever recall a single time in over 8yrs working there, anyone ever doing such a method. Then again, it would be such overkill for the work we get. Very cool lesson Mr Don! Highly appreciated! 😊
@scottroland65773 жыл бұрын
Don Bailey is a true inspiration. I hope to have the privilege of meeting you someday, soon.
@SuburbanToolInc3 жыл бұрын
Thank you for your kind remarks!
@millomweb4 жыл бұрын
Have seen similar done in another video - but they removed 1 bolt from each jaw, fitted a longer bolt in each jaw and used those to clamp a machined ring - so the jaws are all under normal tightening tension without the normal jaw faces being obscured - so the full length of the jaws can be ground.
@mickslipknot4 жыл бұрын
I am learning a lot from these videos, we have never have an opportunity to work with talented and experienced people like Don, he is a real master of these kind of work
@mikescott8584 Жыл бұрын
I was all set to grind my three jaw and watching how others did it because I was convinced that is what I had to do. Then I watched this video and saw the method of truing the chuck to the back plate. No grinding needed after that I was shocked, thanks very much for that.
@SuburbanToolInc Жыл бұрын
Thanks for watching!
@phlodel6 жыл бұрын
I've watched several videos on truing a 3 jaw chuck. I saw this one with the Suburban Tool Inc. name and knew I was going to see the right way to do it.
@godssoldier1019 жыл бұрын
watching that indicator barley move after grinding the jaws was AWESOME!
@ROBRENZ9 жыл бұрын
The chuck will grip better and run truer by loading the jaws with a hollow ring with 3 pins that fit into the inner bolts that hold the jaws on. This makes the jaws spring outward like they will under gripping pressure when holding a short part that only engages the tip of the jaws. When the jaws are ground like this you can see the tip of the jaws engage the part first and then as you increase the chucking pressure you see the jaws finally engage the part at the back of the jaws. This will make a chuck perform unbelievably better especially on lathe work with a lot of part hanging out of the chuck. The difference has to be experienced to be believed!
@SuburbanToolInc8 жыл бұрын
+ROBRENZ Our application was for an ID grinder and part specific. You technique would work well on a lathe. great comment and thanks for watching.
@ROBRENZ8 жыл бұрын
+SuburbanTool Inc IMO other than gripping force, chucking techniques are the same for turning and grinding. A chuck will always perform better by loading at the nose of the jaws. I am not trying to be a know it all Jerk, but a lot of beginners watch these videos and I think it is important to point out nuances of technique that will help them as all of your videos do.
@ExtantFrodo28 жыл бұрын
SuburbanTool Inc I do not have a grinder I could attach to my carriage, so one at a time I aligned my jaws with an indicator, in a vise, on my milling machine. Then in the mill's spindle, using a grinding wheel I had previously dressed true, I removed the necessary amount from the jaws. I brought the runout down from .012 to .001 Needless to say I was very happy that it worked. This is certainly not the preferred method, but it was the only one I was able to implement.
@SuburbanToolInc8 жыл бұрын
+ROBRENZ We thank you for your comment and concern however,we were size specific. That is we have a 1" dia. part and we grind at 1". If you grind the jaws at 1" and then chuck up a 2", 3" , 4" part there will be error due to the inaccuracy of the scroll.
@ROBRENZ8 жыл бұрын
+SuburbanTool Inc I agree completely with those comments and that is not what I am nitpicking about. My point is that loading the master jaws while grinding the jaws does not simulate the jaw forces and deflections that occur while gripping the part. That is why loading the jaws at the nose with a standard chuck jaw boring ring will give more stable gripping with less pressure. Haas has 2 excellent videos on YT on proper soft jaw turning and boring techniques that show the point better than my explanation. Thanks for not just deleting my comments and being willing to have discussion.
@MrShobar9 жыл бұрын
Nice discussion and demonstration, Don. Many thanks.
@johnbates94674 жыл бұрын
2:16 he played it off very well. Love your vids always are packed with useful information.
@wolfitirol83475 жыл бұрын
This is probably the most accurate and most professional way that's true but wrong or right is not the question also other ways work but not so precise if not done properly... This is a very good way to come to the goal...
@charles13799 жыл бұрын
A great video, it teaches a concept that can be applied to a variety of setups.
@jeffreyblankley3 жыл бұрын
Thank you for sharing that😊 These days I wire EDM a hole in a 1” thick plate to a wring or light press fit to the OD of my bushing, install it in the plate, then wire EDM the ID. Good size control and dead zero concentricity & taper. Or a specific taper if I want. Always good to know the alternative ways if you have certain equipment - yours is timeless 👍
@BuildSomthingCool9 жыл бұрын
Great video. I like the way you think. :-)
@SuburbanToolInc9 жыл бұрын
+Metal Tips and Tricks (Dale Derry) Thanks Dale , how is your shop coming?
@BuildSomthingCool9 жыл бұрын
+SuburbanTool Inc Thanks for asking. The new shop is great. I think you will appreciate this. The grinding room should be finished this month. It will house a 6x18 Harig surface grinder, KO lee universal tool and cutter grinder, plus some smaller bench grinders, and its own 2 hp dust collecting system . All the machine have been rebuilt and are painted my favorite color for machines, high gloss antique white. Don the next time you're in Atlanta you should come by. Thanks Dale d
@oregonone1326 жыл бұрын
After 55 years of lathe maching. Listen to this. Even four jaw Chucks can use this method. Have a plate made which has 4 jaw and 3 jaw holes drilled into it at proper diameter.and on the outter bolt holes of your chuck. remove the allen head bolts and put a bolt in there to tighten the jaw. clamp in that ring hard what preasure you will be using for your prodject. then grind the inner face of the jaws. What you will find is perfection. Remove the ring and replace the allen head bolt. Thanks for allowing me to imput.
@richardraithby26038 жыл бұрын
For all those wanting to know a setting ring is the way to ensure you machine jaws under the correct vector Look up Hass how to cut soft jaws this will help in understanding. A 3 jaw is only going to be as acurate as the scroll and guides so beware of constantly grinding hard jaws to gain accuracy at different diameters, soft jaws are available for most chucks and are a lot cheeper.
@SuburbanToolInc8 жыл бұрын
Your right that's another approach.
@theodoremartin61534 жыл бұрын
Hey Don ! You sir are a natural . Thanks for the great explanation.
@SuburbanToolInc4 жыл бұрын
I appreciate that!
@motorcoach1239 жыл бұрын
Thank you Don . I need to do this operation soon on a small lathe I restored . Practical Machinist
@drubradley88218 жыл бұрын
I just found you guys 2-15-2016.. I have had a great time watching and learning from your videos! Thank you for the information, especially this video (so far, I have many many more to watch yet, lol). Every time I have ground my jaws, I would still have about [0.001"] of total run out. Due to how I would grind the I.D. clamp area, all the while having applied O.D. force on the jaws. I now know why and where this run out is coming from, it is coming from the scroll indifference's. This never once crossed my mind. Thank you!
@iancraig19518 жыл бұрын
Greetings from Oz again--Don that was so very very good---that sort of accuracy from a 3 jaw---I would not have believed it....Keep up the vids,if you have got time to make them I sure have got time to watch them..I am going to watch this vid again..
@chrisstephens66739 жыл бұрын
Good tutorial. If only more people knew this, but then again the sale of new chucks might suffer.
@joeycaddell91037 жыл бұрын
took mine from near .02 out to .0015 by using receipt paper between the backing plate and the Chuck. put a pipe in the Chuck for leverage and only one screw needs to be loosened to get paper in a position
@MattsMotorz8 жыл бұрын
Man this guy is awesome. You can tell he loves what he does. GREAT video!!
@bozo28able8 жыл бұрын
I like the Buck chucks that have 4 screws over the ones with 3 screws. The 3 screw chucks will only dial in to about .0005 and the 4 screw chucks will dial in within .0001. You are right there are several ways to do this although using an out-lock will give better results on worn out chucks.
@joshual39025 жыл бұрын
I could watch these videos all day long! And not even get a tad bit bored..... really great stuff I am happy to see the sharing of this information because it’s tricks and tips like this that give the knowledge hungry student of this trade one more tool added to their bag”o” tricks.
@Stelios.Posantzis5 жыл бұрын
Yep, great bed time stories for grown ups! : )
@johnthayjr42377 жыл бұрын
That's the way my Dad showed me back when I was 11 years old . I'm 58 now and it still the way I do it and for lathe soft jaws as well . Old Tool Maker JT Hay Fort Worth Texas
@sil0kin6 жыл бұрын
At 2:14 seconds when he pauses to say "about" you can hear the man Crack a rat. I'm dying laughing right now.
@theslimeylimey9 жыл бұрын
Excellent video!
@DjRjSolarStar5 жыл бұрын
I thought I was the only one who enjoyed using an ID and OD grinder haha. Haven't used one in years since I was trained on one at my old trade school. Made a rotation stage on it out of hardened 17-4 PH steel. The part turned out beautiful however the steel was too gummy and created too much static friction to prove useful for precision rotation, so now it sits on my desk as a really nice very expensive paper weight.
@nlo1148 жыл бұрын
Without doubt there are 'right ways' and 'wrong ways' to do any job. I watch everybody's own methods and consider how best to apply the good parts of each person's method to my application.
@GarryFullerSr6 жыл бұрын
Good little Video. I'm getting ready to do mine now on my LeBlond Lathe with an L0 Chuck.
@antigen45 жыл бұрын
i think the only problem with this technique is that it depends on having a VERY VERY precise spiral cut into the jaw tensioning mechanism in the chuck ... if there's ANY deviation at all - which there likely IS - you will get different concentricity at different diameters (or?)
@johansebastianduartediaz35604 жыл бұрын
My chuck has this problem, spiral is not precise. I couldn't get a good concentricy
@McFingal9 жыл бұрын
Thanks Don, you and your staff are making me a better machinist. Even if I'm a complete amateur, but hey you've gotta start somewhere right?
@k5at9 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the video. Very helpful. Thanks for sharing.
@jeffryblackmon48467 жыл бұрын
Nice work. A grinder is an expensive item for a home shop guy like me. I like my 4-jaw. Thanks for the video.
@rogerdale18834 жыл бұрын
The biggest problem with 3 jaw chucks is the float from the internal spiral plate so cleaning and oiling the chuck from day one eliminates a lot of problems with wear and I found that just tapping into true works also just buy a new good quality chuck and cut your losses,I refused to use those bolt on jaw type chucks and so my 12 inch 3 jaw chucks ran inside one thou at all times and used older chucks for rougher jobs,horses for courses.
@Metalloys8 жыл бұрын
Great information. Thanks a million.
@baccus617 жыл бұрын
If the scroll has run out then it may be in the bearing surface of the chuck where the scroll runs on. The boss that the scroll bearing surface runs on has to be machined and a ring put on it and then ground or accurately machined to be a transition fit for the scroll bearing surface for it to be accurate. If this has slop then all the amount of machining the jaws won't fix it. The hard part is accurately measuring the surface of the chuck boss to be able to get a good fit as it's deep down inside the chuck with about an inch of clearance either side. calipers aren't accurate enough so a micrometer is needed.
@phooesnax9 жыл бұрын
Actually a great explanation! Thanks!
@georgespangler15174 жыл бұрын
I used a round grind stone in my tail stock with an old 3 jaw with 10 thousands run out and got it to 3 thousands,, had to try just to see if it could work and was surprised how well,, where there's a will there's a way,, just seems using the same machine is the best way to go
@ZOMBie647 жыл бұрын
Very nice. Now I just have to figure out how to do it on a chuck that does not have those nifty adjustment screws.
@airgunningyup7 жыл бұрын
I think it would be essentially the same , as long as the true part is in the preground rear of the jaws.. then clamped..
@therussianmachinists24097 жыл бұрын
Why not turn the jaws? a rough finish will help grip your part better I think. It's how we do it at least. and why not indicate the chuck before grinding? i know youll take off less material but won't your chuck be running out and causing your lathe to shake at high speeds? don't want to sound smart, I'm still learning and asking questions. I subscribed thanks for the great videos!
@robmacfarlane58647 жыл бұрын
To the Russian-----------In a large shop where tooling is passed around from machine to machine, it would be impractical to fit tooling to one particular machine and have it not fit another. This is the purpose of having the ability to adjust your chuck to each machine any time.
@MegaStaalman7 жыл бұрын
Totally agree with indicating the chuck before grinding the jaws. Indicating the jaws does not make sense.
@edmundooliver75846 жыл бұрын
I agree indicating the chuck first then indicating the jaws to find the difference before grinding.
@ChrisB2579 жыл бұрын
Most informative. Unfortunately I have no ID grinder.
@MrShobar9 жыл бұрын
+ChrisB257 Use a Dumore grinder on the lathe bed.
@TerrySTUBSZlinski10 ай бұрын
Thank you for your advice. I needed to do this to my 2 lathes
@SuburbanToolInc10 ай бұрын
You're welcome!
@GnosisMan508 жыл бұрын
You need to tighten the jaws on the slug with the one of the pinions on the chuck that's marked with a zero (0). Some chucks don't have it and if they don't, and you are grinding a chuck without it, designate one by stamping a zero beside it preferably before mounting it on the grinder. Then use it to tighten the slug and future work-pieces that need near minimum zero run out.
@JaakkoF7 жыл бұрын
Not necessary on a chuck like in the video, as it is an SetTru style chuck which can be dialed in with those setscrews. On non-adjustable chucks it is a good idea, but don't just blindly follow that advice. I have found many chucks that will give you different runouts on differents diameters depending what chuck key hole you use. This means that the scroll has worn a bit and can cock inside the chuck, making the jaws move one way or the other. On a worn chuck you can tap the jaws with a piece of copper to move the jaws into alignment, basically pushing the scroll the way you want.
@netkev927 жыл бұрын
I really enjoyed this video. It's very clear on the process. Hunting grinding wheels or points has been a challenge. Are there catalogs you like for grinding tools? What type of abrasives do you like to use (aluminum oxide, other)?
@ls20050192279 жыл бұрын
Great video on a subject that affects anyone that has used a lathe very much. I would also be interested in your take/process for correcting "bell-mouthed" jaws on a 4-jaw independent chuck; an entirely different animal which seems much more difficult to preload & grind true.
@SuburbanToolInc9 жыл бұрын
+Robert Ross It will definitely help to do this on a 4 jaw chuck, but it will be challenging to position the jaws back into the same place you ground them.
@robertcretu43635 жыл бұрын
Gotta have a new chuck with even scrolls on each jaw to get full benefits
@rustymachineshop94564 жыл бұрын
Don ur a very smart man that why u have a very successful business I wish iI could’ve worked for you how’s Glen doing
@minhas758 жыл бұрын
Thats is the raly right trick . i am also using this method from a long time approx from 1995
@ckvasnic18 жыл бұрын
Good show Don. thanks for sharing
@Harry666cz5 жыл бұрын
i actualy did this at my work, but if i watching things like this, i am really happy to live in europe, because number (for me its not really a true number) like "1/1000, 2/10" just blowing my mind ... For me is it like 1/1000 is 0.001 and 2/10 is 0.2 (is not really but you get the idea) and for grinding diameters is this very significant difference between those sizes of diiameters.
@johnneurohr71564 жыл бұрын
2/10 is = .0002 [ 2 ten thousands of a inch ... bit of a slang term. }
@JeffRedington-zq7je11 ай бұрын
Nice work... that was exciting! I like the method!!
@SuburbanToolInc10 ай бұрын
Glad you liked it!
@EngineerPEretired5 жыл бұрын
Loved that grinder and technique, thanks for sharing and taking the time, energy and money to produce your content. We have to keep loading content ants sharing our skills or all the new generation of skilled craftsman will only know CNC and not have a real clue to what it takes to trouble shoot and make "parts"... Or how to be "manly" (trigger warning)...
@MrZX12068 жыл бұрын
Beautiful video!
@noyyalindustries97366 жыл бұрын
Dear Sir, Thank u very much for this video.
@SuburbanToolInc6 жыл бұрын
Thanks for your comment
@sunside793346 жыл бұрын
not a big fan of clamping the jaws inside the chuck to get them running true, especially when the chuck was already used for some time. the t-guidances might have worn out by then, and all you'd achieve is to have a taper on the jaws resulting in poor stabilization of longer parts and they would never run true. what i do on my lathe is to get a new set of (hardened bloc) jaws, bore a small hole in the most protruding surface in all of them at roughly the same position and insert a bolt of the same diameter in order to clamp a machined ring. with that you got the clearance to grind/turn the ID of the jaws all the way through just perfectly the way they would bend out naturally inside the t-guidances of the chuck and without any taper by default. i actually performed that recently on a 15 year old 10" chuck, and the runout on a most precise carbide shaft with .45" diameter was below a third of a thou with no significant taper on about 4 inches away from the jaws. worked everytime so far.
@jeffreyschmiedeck4254 Жыл бұрын
When I had to bore jaws that’s how I did it !
@pitu72ger9 жыл бұрын
great stuff, thanks!
@cykelboss87485 жыл бұрын
video is the best... nice job. Legend has become Legancy ...!! :) Craftman from DK
@piotrlenarczyk58034 жыл бұрын
Thank you for video. Greatly explained process:)
@kurtfromMichigan5 жыл бұрын
You know your stuff Sir! I would love to work with you out in the shop.
@tomhassos19 жыл бұрын
You have one thing right you must have pressure of jaws in the direction your going to clamp parts. The way I do it is set jaws to your diameter then make a ring that that you can bolt thru using the outer bolts that hold the two piece jaws on then tighten chuck that way you can grind all the way thru chuck jaws.
@JeffreyVastine9 жыл бұрын
Great information!
@orchardwatchandclockrepair83464 жыл бұрын
Thankyou for making those videos there very helpful
@SuburbanToolInc4 жыл бұрын
No problem 👍
@grumpyg93503 жыл бұрын
Nice work...fun to watch and learn👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👏🏻🇺🇸
@SuburbanToolInc3 жыл бұрын
Thanks 👍
@mahocnc6 жыл бұрын
That's all good if you hold your parts in lathe in the back of jaws and tighten lightly, as you did when grinding. Mostly we hold parts in the front when turning ...the jaws need to be tighten allot more then grinding, you need to mimic this when grinding jaws. As jaws need more clamping power in front, the pre load needs to be in the front...I do this with ring and 3 dowel pins installed which go inside the jaw hole in front, [need to be loose], my Forkardt chuck have holes in hard jaws, you could drill also], some people use the jaw screw holes for mounting ring which I see only a slight problem...the jaws might slightly be binding from each other and uneven forces are applied..but with care this can be minimal and for this purpose well suited. About .003" taper to the back of hard jaws I grind or hard turn for spring back ..gives you greater clamping force in front where it's needed. When turning soft jaws very accurate, most often I use a ring with 3 - 90degree bolts installed on the side...threaded part goes inside the ring, the none threaded part goes inside front of counter bored screw holes, I can adjust easy to the size of parts turned by turning one or more screws in or out ...close to part size, [closer the better] very minimal of turning out soft jaws.
@danvandertorre92805 жыл бұрын
grate video thanks
@Bob10537 жыл бұрын
Thank you - I needed this info!
@SuburbanToolInc7 жыл бұрын
You're welcome! Thank YOU for watching.
@johannesvanhoek90806 жыл бұрын
It was much needed for me as well, thanks !
@andyg3 Жыл бұрын
fantastic video, very educational, thanks!
@SuburbanToolInc Жыл бұрын
Glad it was helpful!
@eformance9 жыл бұрын
Perhaps you can explain, but if you grind the master jaws when the chuck isn't preloaded, then you preload the master jaws and grind the top jaws, the loads can be uneven on the jaws because the scroll wasn't preloaded during the master jaw grinding. Every tutorial I've seen on grinding jaws starts with taking the lash out of the scroll to ensure you aren't grinding one jaw more than the others. Yes, I realize you were using a brand-new chuck, and perhaps that influences your technique, but I'd like to hear your explanation for not preloading the master jaws with a clamp ring. Also, do you touch up the top jaws for every part, to ensure utmost accuracy, or do you just chock up any error to "within tolerances"? I'm surprised to see a 3 jaw used for a final grind, or is it typical to grind the ID first, then use the ID as the locating feature for OD grinding?
@SuburbanToolInc9 жыл бұрын
+eformance The first grind was a relief grind. After the relief was put in, the jaws were preloaded and ground. It all depends on the parts being ground and the tolerances as to when we grind the jaws.
@RickRose9 жыл бұрын
Thanks Don!
@MrShobar9 жыл бұрын
U.S. Patent No. 2,639,157 to Buck, et al.; issued 1953.
@hasanabdullah17116 жыл бұрын
Thank you so much sir,
@howardtoob8 жыл бұрын
Thanks for this video. I have been looked at ALL the youtube vids on the subject grinding jaws and there are more than a few. It seems there is a common thread in most of these which comes around in many comments. This is that, "if the jaws are worn the scroll is as well". I personally cannot refute this claim as I am strictly a complete novice to this trade. My question to you, if I may, is: Why do all the videos show the jaws being ground with the machine spindle running? Why would it not be just as good to set up the TP grinder, in a manner that most do, and manually index the jaws by turning the chuck by hand? In other words position a jaw, then grind and move on to the next??? Thanks BTW - I am working on a 6" chuck that I have on an old Sheldon 10" EXL lathe. What I did so far was grind the removable tops using my T&C grinder. I placed all three of the jaws in a precision vise with the tongue of each jaw resting on the fixed side of the vise and ground all at once. I will mount them in the chuck and check for TIR to see if doing this gets me in the ball park. If I am .001-.003 TIR I'll live with it and expect nothing more.
@ghettobikelife88335 жыл бұрын
If you relieve the back of the jaws then won’t you lose some of your clamping surface?
@thatguythatdoesstuff74485 жыл бұрын
Yes, you will. But the effect is negligible. In fact, you could end up with more bearing surface depending on how well the jaws were ground originally. Likely not all that precise. On a run of the mill 3 jaw chuck, probably not ground super co-planar to the spindle bore in the first place.
@havefaith969 жыл бұрын
Why the green screen? Does make the sparks look awesome!
@mudfish787 жыл бұрын
Mr. Bailey, I would think that this process would work well with a non-adjustable 3 jaw chuck on a lathe with a tool post grinder. Are there any concerns you would have doing it this way?
@panchovilla14868 жыл бұрын
Thank you I got to do that on mine
@jorgemercatali98504 жыл бұрын
Grate Please wacthing this video , many thanks Sir for sharing your knowledge.
@SuburbanToolInc4 жыл бұрын
You are most welcome
@markmanwaring38237 жыл бұрын
Thankyou , a big help
@yealife29478 жыл бұрын
Awesome. Just awesome
@tonyklebs25427 жыл бұрын
These videos are great, i grind drive shafts for outboard motors on a O.D. Cincinnati grinder. I'm not to experience with grinding, been doing it for almost a year. I use a flag, dog, gauge, and steady rests (backrests). Grinding to me is very stressful. On my first grinder I have to get a wheel up to a shoulder with tolerance of 6-9 thou stock removal. Any advise on how to get the wheel to touch on the shoulder without crashing the wheel on my first part?
@mikekerezsi96723 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the video, you have been more than hellfull
@SuburbanToolInc3 жыл бұрын
Thank you for watching.
@keantoken64337 жыл бұрын
Won't work very well with cheap chinese mini-lathe chucks where the scroll has .003" runout. Now that, I would like to see a solution for!
@erikparker99007 жыл бұрын
it's called a 4 jaw chuck...
@RaptorMachineToolCo7 жыл бұрын
great job !!
@loler2247 жыл бұрын
thanks alot, this really helped me out! good video
@SuburbanToolInc7 жыл бұрын
You're welcome! Thanks for watching.
@loler2247 жыл бұрын
i passed my examination test becuase of you, not bad :D
@SuburbanToolInc7 жыл бұрын
Look at that! Congrats! Keep at it.
@coeu89674 жыл бұрын
You are great
@edwardbadlands86216 жыл бұрын
Thanks for sharing, very helpful. Would there be any benefit of centering the Chuck ID with the face plate OD using shim stock? I’m just curious how we know if the 0.020” clearance is being optimized, ah maybe I’m being ridiculous. Thanks
@drewstools1770 Жыл бұрын
Spot on
@SuburbanToolInc Жыл бұрын
Thanks for watching!
@robingibson75037 жыл бұрын
You don't say how the backing plate was held in place?
@Ano_ny7 жыл бұрын
ducttape and some spit
@binness7 жыл бұрын
No way he's an American, that would be chewing gum
@danthor455 жыл бұрын
this is what i would work with the rest of my life...
@AndrewMcLaughlinAM9 жыл бұрын
Did you green-screen in the background?
@SuburbanToolInc9 жыл бұрын
+Andrew McLaughlin Yes , we have some proprietary parts being processed.
@rickboh9 жыл бұрын
I agree..This is the Best way
@MultiDislikes5 жыл бұрын
I always wondered if you could add a tenth adjustment to a 3jaw my 6jaw has one...
@garysmith97729 жыл бұрын
If you could start all over again what would you do different in life and business?
@SuburbanToolInc9 жыл бұрын
+gary smith Not much. It's been a great ride and a lot of fun. Same with my personal life. Come to think of it, I might of taken golf up sooner.Thanks for watching.