You should avoid, as well, buying a connector that is too long (the connector should be about one to two feet longer that the distance from the shut off valve to the appliance). If it’s too long, a customer may try to twist it around to shorten it. That, too, could lead to damage that could cause a gas leak and potential fire. Thank you again for your inquiry!

I wish BrassCraft would label the included fitting so they make sense to a layman. What’s a FIP? MIP? I need a gas connector for my new Samsung dryer. They ask for ½ pipe but only have a 3/8” male inlet.

Thanks for the easiest video ever, Watched it once and did it first attempt thank you!

Thank you! We are glad we could help.

Better than most similar videos for installing gas appliance line.

Yes! DO NOT reuse gas connectors, fittings and valves; they are designed for use on original installation only. Removal of connector and additional handling may damage connector making it unsafe for reuse.

Glad we could help!

Dear Hetcer: That is an important question as the gas fuel codes directly prohibit the connection of multiple Gas Appliance Connectors to install an appliance. Please make sure that your connector is long enough to connect the appliance to the gas supply without stretching, twisting or making sharp bends in the gas connector to make it fit your installation. This may damage the connector, and may cause a gas leak and potential fire. Please avoid the risk by purchasing a longer gas connector.

First off, I want to thank you for all of the information you verbally provided in this video, especially making it very clear which direction the Excess Flow Valve`s "Arrows" should point, "the direction of intended gas flow," & also how to clean the connectors with a wire brush for re-use. I watched a lot of KZfaq videos about Water Heater Installation & about Excess Flow Valves during the last 2 days & none seem to be specific enough about those 2 things. But I still have questions: 1) In any videos, diagrams, & photos, that I`ve found, even recently published ones, illustrating the assembly of the Gas Connector Line from the "Gas Supply Stub Out" to the appliance, it usually appears, if the Excess Flow Valve is evident at all, that the Excess Flow Valve is installed on the "Gas Supply Stub Out" side & not on the appliance side. Is there a reason for that, or does it matter at all? I`m guessing that it could be the difference in building code standards from state to state, or possibly people trained before the use of an Excess Flow Valve was considered necessary, who are continuing to install water heaters using methods they learned 10 or 15 years ago. For instance, in California here, Water Heaters in my area must be "Ultra Low NOx," which appears to add about $100 dollars to the price. Home Depot says on their website that they will not sell the inappropriate Water Heater to a customer, but both the Home Depot & the Lowes in my area still have "non-Ultra Low NOx" Water Heaters in stock. I didn`t try to buy a "non-Ultra Low NOx," so there was no reason to police me when I made my purchase, but the guys who used a fork lift to get my selected Water Heater down from storage to the floor level never said anything. They seemed happy to get down whichever one I told them I wanted. 2) In your video at about 0:25 to 0:26, it clearly states that for the Gas Line connections should use "Pipe Thread Sealant or Yellow Gas Tape," but the "Gas Supply Stub Out" coming up out of the floor throughout your video appears to have been sealed with regular white teflon tape where it connects to the gas shut-off valve. Is that what I am seeing? Whether or not this is not the case, it should be pointed out in the video that all connections along the gas line should never use just regular teflon tape, but only "Pipe Thread Sealant or Yellow Gas Tape," or other acceptable sealing method for piping live with natural gas. 3) If the Excess Flow Valve were to be installed in the wrong direction, as I suspect that mine has been, what would be the symptoms. If I understand how the valve works, that when the pressure is relatively equal on both sides of the valve, the "diaphram" is suspended in some way, away from the "seat," but when the pressure is great enough on the intended "Gas Supply Stub Out" side, the suspension system compresses & the "diaphram" settles into the "seat" inside the valve, blocking flow of natural gas to the appliance side, but , if the Excess Flow Valve were installed backwards, it would not necessarily fail to allow natural gas through the valve. How would one recognize the faulty installation after the fact? In my case, when the appliance, a water heater, kicks in, it makes a loud & forlorn howling noise for 2 to 3 seconds, & then once the pressure is equalized on both sides, the water heater functions as a water heater otherwise should, until the next time that water needs to be heated up, & then it wails for another couple of seconds as it is woken up. I believe the person who installed the valve, as it is now, thought the valve was to avoid backflow into the gas line from the water heater rather than to impede or stop gas flow entirely from the natural gas source, but neither of us was referring to the Safety+Plus Valve as an Excess Flow Valve at that point (enough knowledge & experience to be "comfortable"). Having read the description on the packaging over & over many times since, I don`t understand why it didn`t sink in the first time, but then it was probably 30 minutes to an hour or 2 later before we actually installed the Excess Flow Valve, & it was my first time installing a water heater & possibly my friend`s first time installing a Excess Flow Valve. Many videos I watched older & very recent, did not even seem to have an Excess Flow Valve in the gas line assembly. 4) Suppose I discovered bubbles during the Leak Detection sequence (2:17 to 2:45)? All I need to do is tighten the connection a bit more? I don`t, maybe, need to disassemble the assembly at the leak point, clean the connector ends with the wire brush, re-apply "Pipe Thread Sealant or Yellow Gas Tape" & re-assemble the connection? Are you saying that a leak can only happen if the bevelled flanges inside the connector are not fully seated. Is there a specific torque that the connection should be tightened to? Is a Torque Wrench likely to be necessary or does the Leak Detection Test supposed to make needing a Torque Wrench unnecessary? 5) In one video I watched, the installer was concerned that the flange end of the male side must bottom out to the flange of the female side in each connector. No leak detector fluid was applied to the hose side at the female connector. If the flange end of the male side hasn`t bottomed out to the flange of the female side in that connection, isn`t it likely to leak there where the flexible yellow anti-corrosive coated supply tube enters its female connector, but that it could also leak somewhere at the other end at the appliance as well? In which case the installer should use the Leak Detection Fluid (1 part dish soap to 15 parts water, or a child`s bubble blowing fluid, or actual Leak Detection Fluid from a Hardware Store) generously, all along the Gas Supply Line Assembly, from the Gas Stub Out to the Appliance. I would also like to suggest that you could easily, & even should, show three or more different appliances & talk about how your stainless steel Gas Connector Kits are chosen for a Water Heater, a Stove, a Dryer, a Space Heater, . . ., without going into too much depth about each appliance, but making sure to cover any special tips & tricks to make it easier for DIYers to not blow themselve up, or just lose their eyebrows, no matter what first timer mistakes they might make (I did read the installation & user manual 3 times before I & my friend started the installation, but once it got going, it was moving pretty fast & I should have re-referred to the manual more than we did, & as I had watched several installation videos, & read a few articles in the prior 24 hours, so I was knowledgeable, & comfortable, certainly enough to not feel dangerous). I did watch your video on choosing the appropriate Gas Connector Kit, & I have nothing but praise for all of the information I found there & think that it & this video should be placed in a playlist together with any other associated videos you have now or make in the future. Please make more videos, I like being dangerous, but I wouldn`t mind be less dangerous.

The installation is NOT complete because you did not show how to install the line to the appliance. You only showed the wall end installation.

well done dude , very well explained in a short time !! thumbs up !!

Very helpful video. Just a little more information, and include connecting the appliance would be great.

Part 1 of 2: To determine if this gas connector is correct for your install, answer the following questions: • What is the maximum input rating (BTU rating) of the stove? It should be lower than connector BTU rating. The connector you inquired about has a BTU rating of 93,200. • What is the distance from the appliance to the gas supply stub out? Add additional connector length to allow for moving the appliance for cleaning or maintenance purposes.

Short sweet and to the point

Thank You!!! this video was helpful, I needed to know where the safety valve connected, I had thought it was to the water heater and not the gas supply side.

Hi. So I hope I get a reply to my question. I bought your gas connector hose. But what am I to do if the dryers gas hose is permanent , not meant to be removed and it doesn't reach to the gas pipe coming out of the floor. I've read not to connect to make longer . Now what ??

Dear cyberbink: The use of Excess Flow Valves is not required in all areas. Please check with your local building code official for requirements in your local jurisdiction. Excess Flow Valves are a useful technology to assist in the event of a gas line rupture or disconnect. The device immediately restricts gas flow to the appliance to help prevent a dangerous gas build-up, gas fires and explosions. For more information on Safety+PLUS Excess Flow Technology, please visit BrassCraft site

I'm gonna try this now connect my very own gas cooker😀

My line has a brass male connection already put in. I wonder if it already has an EFV because the one I got won’t connect to it.

Can I skip the gas safety valve? Since it doesn’t fit to onto the pipe from the wall

Thanks a lot for this!

*Thanks for vid. But how tight and how many turns can you do for the flexible gas pipe with the connectors?*

Wish he mentioned how to connect it to the actual appliance.. my connection had plumbers tape on the side he didn’t talk about so I’m confused… remove the plumbers tape on the appliance side?

I need to install a NG/LPG Dynaglo style gas heater in my house. My problem is, I have brick on the outside of my house and I don't know exactly how to penetrate the brick for the threaded gas pipe. What length of pipe do I need ( inside finish drywall to outside face of brick is 9inches ) How should I secure the pipe to the wall? Do you have a link to a video or know of one for an install of this type? I'm not having any luck finding one. 😢 TIA

I just removed a stove that had one of those valves attached on the other end of the hose, between the hose and the stove, with the arrows pointing AWAY from the stove?

What is better to use gas tape, dope or both?

I appreciate the info,thank you.

Can this kit be used on propane fireplace log unit?

Can you use a dish detergent/water solution to test for leaks?

What can I do if the connection is very hard to remove from the wall since it seems like the glue is very dry. Should I warm up the connection?

Do you have to buy new connectors and hose each time?

Excellent video, most appreciated! Thank you!!

I bought two. One for stove which worked fine. Second for gas dryer. That is having issues. I read that if I turn gas on too quickly the auto shut off is activated. It's there a way to disengage the auto shut off the valve will open??? I tried closing the valve. Waiting a few minutes, then slowly turning my supply line shut off valve on slowly but it still doesn't deliver gas to the dryer. I don't think it's my dryer since it's brand new and I'm running it the first time. Thoughts?

No fitting put on before you put the connector on??

If I already have a brasscraft safety valve from a previous dryer installation, can I just replace the hose with a new one when I install a new dryer, or should I replace the excess flow valve as well?

thank you for your information

@2:01, when connecting the gas safety valve to the connector nut, pipe sealer (pipe dope) does not need to be used on the threads?

hey one question; did you use an excess flow valve? is it necessary to use one; i purchased a universal gas dryer kit and there was no EFV in it.

how long should the black pipe coming from the floor be?

Please show installers the proper way to hold the crescent wrench. I know it does it matter in this installation, however a tighter joint will matter, the fixed jaw should take the maximum force. Not complaining, as a teacher I like to use proper technique, if I know them. Always learning, thanks for the video, straight and easy.

How do you replace the pipe coming out of the ground?

What about drip area like on a hard pipe for debris?

bon travaillé

That damn safety valve is causing me problems. The valve coming out the floor is male then when you put the safety valve on the flex line now you have double male!

can i extend an appliance connector flex line or should i just replace it with a longer one?

video is great. Very helpful. But brasscraft website is not so easy to use. I tried to buy the kit listed in the video, can't figure out in brasscarft website where it is and how to buy it.

very helpful

Part 2 of 2 • Is there a manual gas shut-off valve or gas ball valve currently installed at the gas supply stub out to the appliance? And what is the outlet type and size? This connector will mate with a 1/2 In. FIP outlet. • What is the type and size of the gas inlet of the appliance? This connector will mate with a 1/2 In. FIP. Hope it is helpful. Don’t hesitate to call our Product Experts at 877-272-7755.

What size tubing for the incoming gas line?

My old excess flow valve is stuck pretty good anyone know how I can get it off?

can you illustration the ignitor oven kit wlnut & instr

Dear oliverkaitlynannabel , Our apologies for the difficulty in navigating our site. We assure you we heard your feedback and are working on a new site experience that will be easier to navigate and full of need-to-know information. While we are working on it, the install kit part number shown in the video is PSC1081. It is sold at most hardware and home improvement retailers. If you have further questions, please call our Customer Service Department at (877)272-7755

BrassCraft gas connector 1/2 in. MIP (5/8 in. OD) x 1/2 in. MIP x 60 in.. ProCoat Gas Appliance Connector with Fittings (Large Demand) if for stove??

Where is sediment trap??

What’s the Teflon tape for??

0:15 Whats the round part called at the base of the iron pipe called.

there is a MISTAKE apparent in this video that should cause a home inspector or gas company inspector to "fail" or "red tag" this gas service installation. the black iron pipe coming out of the floor in which the gas shut-off value is attached has it's threads wrapped with WHITE TEFLON tape. "white" teflon tape is used ONLY for WATER LINE connections! YELLOW TEFLON tape is the correct product to use in GAS LINE applications/repairs. white teflon tape will degrade over time if/when exposed to natural gas fumes. gas line connections require EITHER yellow teflon tape or "pipe dope" formulated for gas line applications.

Don't you have to have a plumber do that?

Sound

Do not use the tape sealant on gas lines, only paste type pipe dope.

bail Andover samba

Made a mess bud

You should avoid, as well, buying a connector that is too long (the connector should be about one to two feet longer that the distance from the shut off valve to the appliance). If it’s too long, a customer may try to twist it around to shorten it. That, too, could lead to damage that could cause a gas leak and potential fire. Thank you again for your inquiry!